NICHE FRAGRANCES Archives

January 11, 2020

The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Image: Fragrance One.

THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading.

April 13, 2019April 13, 2019

DS & Durga: An Interview With Perfumer David Seth Moltz

When husband and wife, David Seth Moltz (a musician) and Kavi Moltz (an architect) launched DS & Durga in 2007, they did so without a plan in mind. Twelve years later, the perfumer and creative director’s NYC-based company is a well-respected (I would say “very cool”) niche fragrance brand that produces perfume, candle, body and car products.

SELF-TAUGHT: David Seth Moltz didn’t go to perfumery school, but taught himself the tools of the trade.

It’s easy to be a cool brand, but a cool brand with longevity is something else altogether. DS & Durga have achieved this through distinctive (often unusual), high-quality fragrances that take their inspiration from music, art, nature and design.

I got hold of self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz via Instagram and these are his replies to my questions.

What makes DS & Durga stand out in an increasingly saturated niche market?

We are perfumer- and designer-owned. Our scents are a true reflection of our ideas and are not filtered through another perfumer.

You’ve been labelled a “hipster” fragrance brand. What are your thoughts on that?

Not sure what that really means. Doesn’t sound too positive, though.

What was your goal when you originally launched DS & Durga in 2007? Has that changed at all?

At the beginning, we were just flying by the seat of our pants. We were surprised by the response and excited to make something with our own hands. We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools. Ultimately, it’s about spreading joy to as many people as possible.

“We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools.”

You and your wife, Kavi, founded DS & Durga. Why do you have such a strong working relationship?

We respect each other’s spheres of expertise.

DS & Durga - Kavi Moltz and David Seth Moltz

AREAS OF EXPERTISE: Kavi Moltz (creative director) and David Seth Moltz (perfumer) are the husband and wife team behind DS & Durga.

You didn’t study perfumery. Has that been an advantage for you?

I think so. I have my own systems of how aromatic materials work.

Where does your creativity come from?

God.

You’ve recently opened your new NYC store. Why should we visit it?

It has everything we make in one place the way we want you to experience it. You can talk to the founders or our small team and get deep inside what we do and how we do it. Nolita is also a great neighborhood to visit.

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT: The interior of the new DS & Durga store in Nolita, NYC.

One of my favourite DS & Durga fragrances is Debaser. I know the Pixies reference, but I wasn’t expecting all of that delicious fig and coconut for such a rock n roll-referenced fragrance…

Yep, it’s a reference to my youthful understanding of that provocative music on hot summer nights.

On the music theme, you collaborated with Duran Duran last year to celebrate their 40th year in the music biz. What do you remember most from that collaboration?

Working closely with Simon [le Bon, the band’s lead singer] on the fragrances.

Tell us about your latest fragrance, DS & Durga EDP?

The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the retail cost. It is a modern take on an Indian attar with frangipani, gardenia, lotus, sandalwood and vetyver.

“The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the cost.”

Where do you think niche is heading?

Perfume as an art form will only increase. There will always be a market for perfume focused on the artistry of the juice first.

DS & Durga fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics. Tel: 011 883 1350.

November 24, 2018November 27, 2018

3 Sophisticated Men’s Fragrances To Sniff Out (Pronto!): Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT, Milano Cento Him EDT, Dunhill Century EDP

Since my conversion to opening up all possibilities by regularly trying female fragrances, I haven’t done as many male-specific fragrance posts. So I am going to compensate for that by focusing on three sophisticated men’s fragrances in this post. These are: Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT (unisex, in fact), Milano Cento EDT and Dunhill Century EDP. Not that women can’t enjoy these sophisticated men’s fragrances on themselves, mind you.

By “sophisticated fragrances”, I mean scents that have a certain refined elegance. Which is not to be confused with stuffy. They don’t have to try hard to make their wearer feel special. They make an unmistakable style statement, even when it’s a Sunday-in-pajamas kind of day. All three of these fragrances are unique in their own way. But they all share a common citrus theme.

Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT

Classico! One of the biggest names in the niche fragrance industry, Acqua di Parma’s fragrance line was launched in 1916 with this remarkable scent. Over 100 years later, it’s still one of the best sophisticated men’s fragrances on the market. And for good reason. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style. (I’m having an extended Amalfi Coast road-trip, as I write this.)

Acqua di Colonia begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, sweet orange, Calabrian bergamot). It’s one of the most distinctive cologne openings around that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes. I don’t pick up the listed Bulgarian rose note. This eventually gives way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli.

Did you know?

Carlo Magnani founded the company. He used to spray a handkerchief with Colonia and then slip it into his pocket. If that’s not supremely stylish, I don’t know what is.
The bottle is inspired by the clean, geometric lines of Art Deco. It was introduced in 1930.
Cary Grant, Audrey Hepburn and Ava Gardner are just some of the stars who were seduced by its Italian chic.
All labels on all the bottles and packaging are applied by hand.
Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy bought the company in 2001.

100ml for R2 075.

Milano Cento Him EDT

Big in the 80s as a sophisticated men’s fragrance and now back on the market after a long absence. To celebrate, Milano Cento founder’s Dean Tatum’s 50^th birthday, his wife and son organised a nostalgic present for him in the form of Milano Cento’s big-seller. This gift idea soon morphed into the relaunch of the business as a niche brand. The bottle design and logo have been tweaked and there are also additional products.

Milano Cento EDT has a reassuringly masculine, Italian barbershop vibe to it. It opens with a fresh splash, courtesy of citrus, bergamot and petitgrain notes. While it’s hard to resist that intro, in the background of this fougère, there’s a developing herbal ensemble in the form of rosemary, lavender and basil notes. Sandalwood, patchouli, clove, cinnamon and amber notes round off the appeal. Smooth, musky and spicy.

£29.50 for 50ml and £49.50 for 100ml, enquiries@milanocento.com.

Dunhill Century EDP (Carlos Benaïm)

Officially inspired by the notion of looking forward to a new century, Dunhill’s new pillar fragrance is actually retro-ish in smell. Carlos Benaim has created numerous stand-out fragrances over the years. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Euphoria Men EDT, Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT, Frederic Malle Music For A While EDT and Dunhill Icon EDT. So my expectations of his new creation were high.

I’m not disappointed, although a lot of other online reviewers may differ. I’m immediately hooked by the slightly sweet treatment of the opening bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit notes. This hint of sweetness continues through to the heart of the fragrance, where neroli, olibanum and cardamom notes announce their presence. The sweetness tapers slightly, as the base notes of sandalwood and musk bring a touch of warmth. Please note: The sweetness that’s present throughout this fragrance is the subtle kind. Relief for lovers of sophisticated men’s fragrances!

R1 495 for 135ml.

February 1, 2017February 25, 2017

ARE YOU A FRAGRANCE SNOB?

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL… But not for public display.

If you think that the world of fragrance is just about pretty bottles and nice smells, think again. Welcome to the realm of the fragrance snob. I use this term affectionately, because I am guilty sometimes of being a frightful fragrance snob.

Of course, I am not the only one. So read through the statements below to see how you place on the snob-o-meter. Be honest. I won’t judge you…

If there’s one thing that gets you going, it’s the commercialisation of perfumery. You regularly vent on Fragrantica about the umpteenth flanker in a designer fragrance range and how the once mighty have fallen so low.
And let’s not even got started on the reformulation or discontinuation of your favourite fragrance.
And celebrity fragrances…
You speak about the masters of fragrance as if they are your best friends. Sometimes you even know their fragrances better than they do.
Now that everybody loves Comme des Garcons fragrances, you are on the hunt for a new niche fragrance house. Escentric Molecules, Laboratory Perfumes and Nasomatto are just some of your new faves. For now, at least…
You are known for your mastery of fragrance-speak, of which you are very proud. Words like “sillage”, “projection”, “chypre”, “juice”, “drydown”, “layering”, “neo-oriental” and “absolue” come so easily to you.

FINDING A NEW NICHE: The more obscure, the better.

You have a soft spot for some cheap and cheerful fragrances from the likes of The Body Shop, Avon and Yardley but, heaven forbid, these would never feature on your Instagram. You would rather use IG to display your vintage Christian Dior Eau Sauvage and Guerlain Vetiver.
You can debate the note structure of a fragrance for hours and are adamant that you can detect the rare wild Haiti rose as a top note in so-and-so’s newest scent, even though it’s not listed in the official note structure.

Tag: NICHE FRAGRANCES