Tag: L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

Posted on

Best Honey Fragrances: Sweet Sophistication

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

Show me the honey! Apologies to the makers of Jerry Maguire, I had to adapt that classic cinematic phrase to suit my purposes for this round-up of the best honey fragrances.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

No surprises, honey hits the sweet spot with the ongoing popularity of gourmands. It’s also used to texture floral notes with a sunny aspect. Either way, I love how perfumers interpret the note, often recreating the variety of the real thing according to its nectar source.

I explore some of the genre’s most sophisticated options. What are your best honey fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT, Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the pioneering French niche brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

CHANEL BEIGE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Inspired by Coco Chanel’s favourite colour (“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” she said, according to the French luxury brand’s website), this EDP is a 2016 addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range. Who knew beige could be so vibrant?

The tropical tones of frangipani – all fruity creaminess – are blended with the spiciness of hawthorn to produce a lush mood. You’d never know Hawthorn is created in the lab through synthetic means. The sweetness of these florals is accentuated by a dollop of honey in a thoroughly refined Chanel way.

Nominally a female fragrance, Beige is unisex in my opinion and highly recommended for the more open-minded, olfactorily speaking.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original and innovative Mugler A*Men was launched in 1996 and each addition to the franchise manages to add something different to the theme.

Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection. It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while an amber accord keeps it warm and cosy.

It’s the probably the most popular A*Men flanker and, for the record, it has not been discontinued.

Best Honey Fragrances - Mugler Amen Pure Havane EDT

DIPTYQUE VOLUTES EDP* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

Something chic, something comfortable, something understated…

Tobacco extends a warm welcome that’s impossible to refuse in this 2012 release from the Paris-based niche company, while an iris accord reveals her seductive powdery charms. Delicately sweet notes of honey and cinnamon add to the sensual ambience. Opoponax keeps it velvety smooth.

Everything is in perfect harmony in this stellar Fabrice Pellegrin creation. The EDT version, created by the same accomplished perfumer, is also a great option.

Best Honey Fragrances - Diptyque Volutes EDP

PARFUMS DE MARLY OAJAN EDP*

Parfums de Marly must be one of the most popular niche brands in recent years, with big releases such as Herod, Layton and Pegasus proving to be lucrative crowd-pleasers for brand founder Julien Sprecher.

A 2013 release from the less-hyped Arabian Breed Collection, Oajan gets the balance between accessibility and quality right.

Spicy cinnamon and powdery honey make for a great combo in the opening, with the fruity floralcy of osmanthus in support. The amber accord – lots of vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean here – is all about creaminess. Patchouli gives the EDP earthy depth.

Some of the house’s releases can be a tad aggressive, but this one is the epitome of elegance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Oajan EDP

MEMO ILHA DO MEL EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Ilha do Mel. A small island off the coast of Brazil with beautiful beaches and Atlantic forests. The name alone of this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house’s Graines Vagabondes Collection sounds exotic and far, far away from reality. I don’t need any persuasion to take a trip with this beautiful EDP.

Memo fragrances are layered and maximalist, and this one is no different. Juniper oil and hyacinth provide brief green freshness in the opening. And then a floral bouquet of broom, orange blossom, gardenia and especially jasmine are given a luxurious honey treatment. Which makes perfect sense seeing that Ilha do Mel means “honey island”. Musk and vanilla prolong the experience in the drydown.

It’s heady and sweet, but not ickily so. And as always with Memo, the bottle is gorgeous.

Best Honey Fragrances - Memo Ilha do Mel EDP

INITIO ADDICTIVE VIBRATION EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL & PIERRE-CONSTANTIN GUÉROS)

I’m feeling all hot and bothered. And not because of the temperatures outside. I’ve just finished reading the website blurb for this 2016 release from the French niche brand’s Absolutes Collection: “a body of lustful scent in a magma of flesh.” Gulp!

Over-statement aside, this EDP deserves as much attention as the house’s big releases such as Oud for Greatness EDP and Musk Therapy EDP.

The combo of floral notes – apple blossom, orange blossom, vanilla orchid – is sweetly seductive stuff. The animalic honey note stands out among the potent bouquet, while musk maintains the sensual vibe in the drydown.

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

SWEET SEDUCTION: Is Initio Addictive Vibration EDP one of your best honey fragrances?

KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP (PASCAL GAURIN)

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

A 2017 release from The Cellars Collection, Kilian Gold Knight EDP is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The classy sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag. If you want something more obviously opulent, there’s also the 2009 release, Kilian Back to Black EDP, to sniff out.

 

Best Honey Fragrances - Killian Gold Knight EDP

CARTIER L’ENVOL DE CARTIER EDT (MATHILDE LAURENT)

L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.

The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing.

Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair. Beautiful simplicity at its best!

Best Honey Fragrances - Cartier L'Envol de Cartier EDT

BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY: Cartier L’Envol de Cartier is my favourite in this best honey fragrances selection.

BYREDO CASABLANCA LILY EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The Night Veils Collection (all extrait de parfum concentration) shows Byredo in a completely different light. No prizes for guessing the inspiration for Casablanca Lily, a 2019 release from the Swedish niche brand.

It opens with a combo of creamy gardenia and juicy plum. The sensual ambience picks up a notch with the appearance of slightly animalic Indian tuberose. There’s a hint of spicy carnation in the background too.

Sweet and pure, the honey accord is something to behold. It’s supported by the floral tones of a rosewood note.

Best Honey Fragrances - Byredo Casablanca Lily Extrait de Parfum

AMOUAGE CRIMSON ROCKS EDP* (DOMITILLE MICHALON BERTIER)

Any doubts that the brand that put Arabian perfumery on the world map, under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, would take a dip after his departure in 2019 were laid to rest with this 2020 release. Part of the Renaissance Collection and inspired by the beauty of the Al Hajar Mountains, Oman, at dusk, this contribution to the best honey fragrances is one for the romantics.

That mood is on display from the warm and spicy opening notes of cinnamon bark essential and pink pepper. Two extracts of rose meet a Jujube honey accord, with its rich date-ish nuances, to create a suitably Middle Eastern vibe.

The drydown is on the woody side, with the earthiness of oak supported by vetiver.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT* (SYLVIE FISCHER)

The British brand that’s best known for its bath and body products also produces quality fragrances such as this 2015 release.

The spicy freshness of notes of bergamot and elemi transitions to the warmth of cinnamon and nutmeg. A black tea accord adds a green dimension to the composition. It builds up to the drydown featuring rich and resinous oud in partnership with caramel-ish tobacco. Although in a secondary role, the honey accord contributes to the oriental atmosphere with soft sweetness.

If you’re feeling really indulgent, you could pair it with the matching Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Bath & Shower Gel featuring 23.5-carat gold flakes. The 2019 EDP version (pictured here) has pronounced accents of saffron and styrax.

Best Honey Fragrances - Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold EDP

*These best honey fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

Posted on

Best L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances From The Original Niche Pioneer

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.

While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)

A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.

It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.

The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.

Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.

Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.

Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.

Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.

The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!

Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu EDT

UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.

Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.

Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.

It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.

It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.

An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.

It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.

Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MIRABILIS 60 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.

On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.

Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur 60 Mirabilis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.

So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.

I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR HISTOIRE D’ORANGERS EDP* (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.

It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.

Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MANDARINA CORSICA EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?

Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.

A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)

Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.

It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,

With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Champ de Fleurs EDC

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)

This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.

It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.

But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)

If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.

The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.

Un vrai delice!

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP

*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

Posted on

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.