Nadège Le Garlantezec Interview: “I Will Have Succeeded If I Can Maintain That Sense Of Wonder”

Nadège Le Garlantezec
IMAGE: Givaudan.

Looking for proof that perfumery is both a scientific and creative endeavour? Then allow me to introduce you to Nadège Le Garlantezec. The Paris-based perfumer combines both worlds in various creations (see below) with what I’ll call a distinctive “scent-sitivity”.

+ Boucheron Quatre EDP (2015)

+ Ex Nihilo Devil Tender EDP (2016)

+ Liquides Imaginaires Île Pourpre EDP (2016)

+ Jovan Tropical Musk For Him Cologne (2017)

+ L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)

+ Coach Floral EDP (2018)

+ Rochas Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)

+  Lancôme Idôle EDP (2019)

+ Valentino Donna Born In Roma Coral Fantasy EDP (2022)

+ Ex Nihilo Vesper Glitz EDP (2023)

+ Memo Inverness EDP (2023)

+ Tommy Hilfiger Impact Together EDT (2024)

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Tommy Hilfiger Impact Together EDT

After completing her chemistry and perfumery studies, Nadège Le Garlantezec joined Givaudan. She’s currently a senior perfumer in the Paris-based fine fragrance team of the Swiss fragrance and flavour company.

Earlier creations of Nadège Le Garlantezec include Eutopie No 6 EDP (2013) and Oriflame Imagination EDT (2014). More recently, in 2022, the career of Nadège Le Garlantezec hit a personal high with Prada Paradoxe.

Nadège Le Garlantezec
IMAGE: Givaudan.
WHEN YOU STARTED STUDYING CHEMISTRY AT UNIVERSITY, WERE YOU ALREADY PASSIONATE ABOUT THE WORLD OF PERFUMERY?

Yes, my passion for perfumery was already deeply rooted when I started my studies in chemistry. I chose this path, convinced it was the best way to achieve my dream of becoming a perfumer. This realisation inspired me to pursue my goal wholeheartedly. Chemistry was not always easy, but as soon as I was able to connect it with perfumery, everything changed.

“This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in  my career as a perfumer.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec

I began to mentally visualise scents and develop synesthesias, which allowed me to create. This connection between synesthesia and perfumery has been essential in nurturing my passion and propelling me towards my career as a perfumer.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Memo Inverness EDP
WHAT DID YOUR EDUCATION AT ISIPCA GIVE YOU?

What struck me the most during this experience were the exceptional encounters with perfumers, as well as the enriching exchanges and the bonds formed with my classmates, who are now valuable friends in the field.

This class of passionate individuals endures and we continue to come together to share our common love for perfumery. ISIPCA confirmed to me that I had my place in the perfumery world.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Rochas Mademoiselle Rochas EDT
WHAT WAS YOUR DEBUT AND WHAT DO YOU THINK OF IT NOW?

My first project was the creation of a scented candle. It was an incredible experience, as I was able to see a project take shape and be commercialised. It’s quite an amazing feeling.

Looking back, I feel immense pride in having created something tangible in the realm of olfaction that touched people beyond my family and friends. I still hold onto that sense of wonder, convinced that I will have succeeded in my career if I can maintain that same emotion every day.

HOW DO YOU START YOUR DAY?

My days start in a varied way, without a fixed routine. I listen to my emotions and needs, which allows me to adapt my workplace. This flexibility is essential in a profession where creativity must be nourished by the inspiration of the moment.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - L'Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumiere EDP
IMAGE: L’Occitane en Provence.
YOU CO-CREATED NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO ROUGE EDP (2018) AND NARCISO ROUGE EDT (2019) WITH YOUR GIVAUDAN COLLEAGUE SONIA CONSTANT. WHAT STOOD OUT FOR YOUR DURING THOSE PROJECTS?

Working on Narciso Rouge was a significant experience, especially because it was one of my first forays into the European market. What struck me particularly was the creative freedom we had to introduce a fruity note into a traditionally musky range.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Rouge EDT
HOW DOES LANCÔME IDÔLE EDP (2019) AND ITS VARIOUS FLANKERS REPRESENT YOUR CREATIVE AND TECHNICAL APPROACH?

The original idea for Lancôme Idôle EDP was proposed by Shyamala Maisondieu, who focused on a universal scent, that of cleanliness.

Our collaboration with Shyamala Maisondieu and Adriana Medina aimed to transform this powerful and technical accord into an ultra-feminine and floral fragrance, while remaining true to the essence of the Lancôme brand and the initial concept. It is in this approach that our technical work was particularly successful, combining power and delicacy.

“The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story.” – Nadège Le Garlantezec

The flankers always represent a wonderful opportunity for the three of us to come together and tell a new story, which is both a challenge and a pleasure. It’s a chance to express our creativity in each flanker.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Lancome Idole EDP
WINNING THE BRIEF FOR PRADA PARADOXE EDP (2022), PRADA PARADOXE EDP INTENSE (2023) AND PRADA PARADOXE VIRTUAL FLOWER EDP (2024) MUST HAVE BEEN EXCITING. I SEE THEY INCLUDE SERENOLIDE. WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THIS MUSK INGREDIENT AND THE EFFECT IT BRINGS TO THESE FRAGRANCES?

Winning the brief for Prada Paradoxe is a highlight of my career, especially in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic.

It was necessary to adapt to the situation, and it remains a quite powerful story, especially since it was co-created with my mentors, Antoine Maisondieu and Shyamala Maisondieu. Serenolide is a renewable musk that brings a modern and addictive sensuality.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Prada Paradoxe
IMAGE: Prada.
ÂME DU COEUR IS YOUR LATEST CREATION (2024) FOR LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES. YOU’VE ALSO CREATED TELLUS (2015), ILE POURPRE (2016) AND NAVIS (2022) FOR THE BRAND. WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WORKING WITH THE COMPANY FOUNDER PHILIPPE DI MÉO?

Working with Philippe Di Méo is always an exciting adventure. He was one of the first clients I met at art exhibitions and installations, long before we began collaborating on fragrance creation.

In the early days of Liquides Imaginaires, he was in search of sanguine waters. I had developed a note after a vacation in Portugal, capturing the essence of the Douro Valley with its hints of port, oak barrels and the interplay between wine and wood. I shared this idea with Philippe, who loved it and bottled it. He offers a rich and fascinating olfactory world that allows us to explore unconventional notes.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Liquides Imaginaires Ile Pourpre EDP
WHAT NOTE DO YOU ESPECIALLY ENJOY WORKING WITH? AND IS THERE ONE YOU STRUGGLE WITH?

I don’t set any limits for myself. I appreciate the balance between exploration time and moment of technicality that led us to work with our chosen materials. Some ingredients have been with me forever, while others appear unexpectedly and enrich my palette.

Nadège Le Garlantezec - Ex Nihilo Vesper Glitz EDP

10 Best Rose Fragrances: Fragroom’s Queen Of Florals Mix

Best Rose Fragrances

Not for nothing is the rose known as the queen of flowers and, I can add, a mainstay of perfumery. This year alone, big releases include Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose EDP, Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP and Dior Miss Dior Rose N’Roses EDT. I haven’t tried any of these yet due to the current coronavirus situation, hence their possible exclusion from this best roses fragrances list.

Best Rose Fragrances

Rose fragrances are always popular and part of their appeal is due to the multitude of ways in which they can be interpreted. From fresh and dewy to rich and decadent, there’s one for you. I’ve included a mix of styles, modern classics and newbies in this best roses round-up to give you a sense of the variety on offer.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

I would love to hear about your best rose fragrances.

Best Rose Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE PORTRAIT OF A LADY EDP* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

No best rose fragrances list would be complete without the inclusion of this modern masterpiece that’s affectionately known by its fans as POAL. An extraordinary perfume demands a different type of review, so here are five facts:

  1. It’s named after the Henry James novel, which was published in 1891.
  2. Its creator, Dominique Ropion, who is highly regarded for scents such as Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Mugler Alien, received The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer Award in 2019.
  3. Released in 2010, it has become one of the most revered niche fragrances of the last decade.
  4. According to the brand’s website, each 100ml bottle contains no less than 400 Turkish roses.
  5. That said, this is a seamless fragrance that whispers its supreme beauty from the opening rose note. Tinges of raspberry and black currant bring delicate fruity piquancy to the blend, while cloves add spicy warmth. An ultra-refined patchouli note takes the lead in the drydown and is given just the right amount of sensual mystery with swirls of smoky frankincense and creamy sandalwood.

While you are in Frédéric Malle mode, make sure to sniff out the other superb rose EDPs from the Paris-based niche house, including Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier and Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Best Rose Fragrances

UNUM ROSA NIGRA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FILIPPO SORCINELLI)

Filippo Sorcinelli has to be one of the most interesting perfumers working today. The Italian is the consummate slashie. Artist. Musician. Photographer. Storyteller. Designer. Creator of vestments for the Catholic Church, including for Pope Francis’s first mass. All of these talents are reflected in his conceptual perfumes. His range, Unum, was launched in 2014.

Rosa Nigra is an utterly captivating, enveloping and complex rose fragrance. Actually, it’s more of an experience, which is inspired by French cathedrals and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Except it doesn’t contain a rose note. He creates the effect through an olfactory illusion. Sorcinelli achieves this by playing with a variety of notes, especially freesia and peach, and fleshes it out with absinthe, sandalwood, cashmere wood, amber, vanilla and musk.

Every detail, from the choice of notes to the design of the bottle, has symbolic significance. And you don’t have to be a Catholic, religious or spiritual to “get” it.

Best Rose Fragrances

CHLOE EDP* (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE & MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

Launched in 2008, Chloé EDP proved to be a huge hit for the French fashion label. And for very good reason. It’s a beautifully fresh floral fragrance that showcases rose.

That freshness is evident right from the opening notes of freesia, peony and lychee. When the rose comes through, it’s dewy, perfectly pretty and supported by lily-of-the-valley and magnolia notes. Featuring notes of amber and cedar, the drydown is warm and woody.

Yes, it’s a popular fragrance. But don’t let that put you off sniffing out this modern classic that can give much pricier niche options a run for their money.

Best Rose Fragrances

DIPTYQUE EAU CAPITALE EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche fragrance brand pays tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity with this 2019 release.

The intro belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose from Turkey and Bulgaria. This is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background.

For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy characteristics of Indonesian heart of vetiver and Haitian vetiver.

Best Rose Fragrances

ACQUA DI PARMA ROSA NOBILE EDP*

Acqua di Parma’s Le Nobili Collection has a floral focus and includes peony and magnolia versions. Rosa Nobile is an absolute beauty.

This EDP centres on Centifolia rose buds. According to the Italian niche brand, these are hand-picked from an organic plantation in Piedmont. They give the scent a fresh, leafy facet that’s perfectly complemented by notes of Sicilian mandarin, pepper, peony, cedarwood and musk. There’s also a hint of ambergris in the drydown, which could be why this perfume is usually on the pricey side.

I’d love to congratulate the creator of this 2014 release on a job well done, but Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t disclose its perfumers.

Best Rose Fragrances

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP*

There are many notable fragrances in the Swedish niche brand’s line-up, including Pulp, Super Cedar, Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique. But the lesser-known and charmingly named Rose of No Man’s Land, inspired by the nickname given by soldiers to the life-saving nurses during World War I, is highly recommended if you’re looking for a gentle intro to rose fragrances.

This 2015 release opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by subtle pink peppercorn. The centrepiece is softly-enveloping Turkish rose absolute, nicely finished off with notes of amber and papyrus.

It’s a very warm, agreeable and accessible fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

Best Rose Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’EAU A LA ROSE EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Launched in 2014, Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP is a truly gorgeous rose fragrance. This 2019 release is a good alternative if you’re looking for a softer, but equally alluring take on the theme.

It opens with an airy lychee accord, without becoming a typically sweet fruity floral. Centifolia rose absolute and Damascena rose oil give this EDT its floral flair, while peony keeps it on the fresh side of things.

Settling on a base of musks, it’s luxurious and sensual in a quiet way. Perfect for spring and summer – and even before bedtime.

Best Rose Fragrances

DS & DURGA ROSE ATLANTIC EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Trust self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz of NYC-based niche fragrance house DS & Durga to do something completely different with a rose perfume.

You’ll know this is not the usual rose scent right from the opening of this 2016 release, featuring bitter-ish notes of bergamot and lemon oil, with rose petals slightly softening the effect. A fine rose accord comes through in the heart of the fragrance, with linden blossom in support. But this is a rose drenched in salt water. Lots of it. As if you’re aboard the ship Salt Spray Rose. What a clever boy!

A dose of white moss completes the mood.

Best Rose Fragrances

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex fragrance, the NYC-based niche fragrance house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded.

Best Rose Fragrances

LANCOME IDOLE EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, ADRIANA MEDINA-BAEZ & NADEGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

Lancôme’s first new perfume since the decade-defining La Vie est Belle has received much love and hate since its release in 2019. Negative reviews have declared it “boring” and “predictable”. I say try it for yourself. Well composed and a great example of a clean rose scent, it earns its place on this best rose fragrances list.

A delicately sweet note of pear opens the fragrance. Two essences (an absolute and rose water) have been used to make rose the star of the show. They give it a fresh, pure and green quality. Jasmine is in the background.

White musks feature in the drydown and maintain the sense of purity.

Best Rose Fragrances

*These best rose fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics