Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.
In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.
PERFUMER
Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.
The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.
He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.
SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?
Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.
I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.
What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.
BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.
The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.
This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish. Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.
Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…