Sisley: The Family Way

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

In an increasingly corporatised fragrance world (whether niche or designer), Sisley stands out for all the right reasons. Acquired by husband-and-wife Hubert and Isabelle d’Ornano in 1976, the Paris-based company’s first fragrance in 1977, Sisley Eau de Campagne EDT (also one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s earlier creations), set the tone for future releases.

Jean-Claude Ellena

IMAGE: Jean-Claude Ellena.

Almost 50 years later, there’s no doubting the central role the family play in Sisley. Hubert d’Ornano died in 2015, but Isabelle is still active in the company, with son Philippe d’Ornano, the president of Sisley; daughter Christine d’Ornano, managing director; and Daria Botin, Isabelle d’Ornano’s granddaughter, head of Sisley’s in-house creative studio.

Hubert and Isabelle d'Ornano

IMAGE: Sisley.

This family approach gives Sisley a most appealing mix of continuity, eccentricity and non-conformity, which is also reflected in many of the names and inspiration of several scents.

D'Ornano Family

IMAGE: Sisley.

Oud, gourmands and any other fragrance trends? Apologies, you won’t find those in the Sisley world. But what you will find is a quintessentially French approach to luxury – fragrance as an expression of culture – akin to Hermès, if you will.

The brand gets my utmost respect for not churning out perfume products several times a year, every year. This gives me the distinct impression they’re in the business of luxury for the right reasons.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

Another plus: their collaborations with artists, many of whom are family friends. For example, the commissioned work of Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof was turned into the top for the bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir EDP (more on this fragrance below).

This passion for and support of the arts is reflected in their Trois-Cinq Friedland cultural programme (situated at the company HQ in Paris) and the Sisley Beaux-Arts de Paris Award for Young Creators.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

And now my thoughts on some of their fragrances below:

SISLEY EAU DU SOIR EDP

One word to describe this 1990 release created by Jeannine Mongin: enchanting. But such is the beauty of this scent inspired by Isabelle d’Ornano’s childhood memories of the Alcazar Palace gardens in Spain, I’ll elaborate more.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

The citric freshness via grapefruit and mandarin orange makes way for a bouquet that showcases the richness of the white floral syringa. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang are in the floral mix too, with black pepper spicing it up and juniper laying on the fresh aromatics. Oakmoss (pushed to the legal max) and patchouli bring earthy woodiness to the drydown, with musk completing this sensual treat.

It’s old school and timeless at the same time. Which means I can’t get enough of it.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

SISLEY SOIR D’ORIENT EDP

The use of the term “orient” is now flagged as a “sensitive geopolitical reference”, according to my Microsoft review feature. This could be problematic for a whole genre in perfumery which relies on the use of this word to conjure all sorts of olfactory imagery.

Fortunately, there’s no problem whatsoever with this 2015 release created by Olivier Pescheux.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

It’s all about a silky Turkish rose infused with the smoke of incense and warm spiciness of black pepper and saffron. What’s that greenery lurking in the background? It’s galbanum treated with admirable restraint. The aromatics of geranium makes an appearance, too, and then settles with creamy sandalwood and musky patchouli.

An oriental, indubitably, in a super-sophisticated style that reminds me just how good a perfumer Pescheux was before his untimely death in 2023.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’HUBERT EDT

From the Les Eaux Rêvées Collection (launched in 2023 and inspired by the various generations of the family), this Alexis Dadier creation is everything I want a green fragrance to be: fresh, sharp and uncompromising.

The initial greenery is expressed through a number of herbal notes: mint, buchu (the South African plant) and shiso (the Japanese mint). As the fresh spiciness softens, the aromatics of geranium (almost grassy) comes through, with dry woodiness from papyrus. The woodiness continues through to the drydown featuring earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli. It’s almost fizzy. Perhaps the listed Ambroxan at work?

If you’re new to greens, be warned: this EDT will be too much for you. 

Sisley L'Eau Revee d'Hubert EDT

SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’IKAR EDT

After the sharpness of Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert, this one may seem relatively subdued. I’m glad I stuck with it, as it has its own abundant merits and more complexity.

Sisley L'Eau Revee d'Ikar EDT

Starting softly with fresh citrus notes of lemon and bitter orange, it builds up to resinous, almost waxy mastic (also known as lentisque), with iris softening the edges with a teeny-weeny hint of sweetness in the background. The drydown is earthy in character, courtesy of vetiver and labdanum, but isn’t heavy.

A Vincent Ricord creation that reveals elegantly sniff-me nuances with each wearing.

Sisley L'Eau Revee Duo

DID YOU KNOW?

* Sisley was originally co-founded by Jean-Francois Laporte (of L’Artisan Parfumeur and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier) fame.

* According to Forbes.com, before acquiring Sisley, Hubert d’Ornano launched Orlane with his father and brother in 1953, which they sold in 1968. Hubert’s grandfather Guillaume co-founded Lancôme in 1935 and sold his shares in the 1950s.

* Sisley is highly regarded for its premium skincare, make-up and hair products, and luxury spas in destinations such as Paris, London, Milan, Mykonos, Doha and Mauritius.

* Isabelle d’Ornano gave access to writer Christiane de Nicolaÿ-Mazery and photographer Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe to capture her living and work spaces for the coffee-table book, What a Beautiful World!: The Designed Spaces of Isabelle d’Ornano (Abrams, 2022).

What A Beautiful World Book

IMAGE: Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe.

Sisley fragrances are available in South Africa from selected Woolworths, Arc and Edgars stores.  

Arbour Café Rendezvous, With A Side Order Of Terre d’Hermes Parfum

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

I was recently invited to eat a meal at Arbour Café, a French-style cafe in Birdhaven, a wealthy Johannesburg suburb. I am usually weary of French-inspired restaurants, as all too often they lapse into tweeness and clichés. Non, merci beaucoup! However, in the name of open-mindedness, I put my misgivings aside and accepted the kind invitation. And besides I needed an outing to wear my Terre d’Hermes Parfum.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

I arrived for my Arbour Café rendezvous for an early-ish brunch. While the street-facing side of the restaurant has its attractions, I chose to eat in the courtyard for a bit of air, sun and people-watching.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

Arbour Café specialises in galettes (savoury French buckwheat pancakes) and crêpes (thinner pancakes usually served with sweeter fillings). There are plenty of other options on the menu for breakfast, dinner and lunch, including omelettes, salads, sandwiches and desserts.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

TRES BIEN: Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg.

For my main meal, I chose the Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg. Très bien! And the Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes for dessert. C’est délicieux! Both were served by friendly and attentive staff in an amiable and comfortable environment that’s thankfully not precious at all.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe.

C’EST DELICIEUX: Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes.

ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

And what of my fragrance companion, Terre d’Hermes Parfum? A perfect choice, if I may so myself. Whenever I wear this fragrance I ask myself (rhetorically), “Has bitter orange ever opened a fragrance so magnificently?”

Terre d'Hermes @ Arbour Cafe

Yet there’s so more to Terre d’Hermes Parfum than its trademark citrus introduction. Its flint note adds an unusual and earthy mineral aspect, which evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Not for nothing is Terre d’Hermes Parfum regarded as one of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterpieces.

While I was finishing my very pleasant meal in Arbour Café’s relaxing courtyard, a fellow diner walked by and swooned: “Oh! That must be Terre d’Hermes. I would recognize it anywhere.”

Arbour Café, corner Wrenrose Avenue and St Andrews Street, Birdhaven, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 788 4111.  Email: info@arbourcafe.co.za. http://arbourcafe.co.za/

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe

 

From Cartier Declaration EDT To Cartier Declaration Parfum: 20 Years Of A Modern Classic

Cartier Declaration Parfum And Cartier Declaration EDT

The fragrance industry is pretty shameless when it comes to hype and hubris. Although I try not to indulge in the worst of it, sometimes I am guilty of it, too. But with the recent release of Cartier Declaration Parfum, I can say with absolute certainty that Cartier Declaration EDT is a true modern classic. A classic in the sense that it added something very distinctive and special to perfumery at the time of its launch and that its influence is still felt to this day.

Cartier Declaration EDT And Cartier Declaration Parfum

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Cartier Declaration EDT was launched in 1998. With its fresh, spicy, citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this fragrance defies easy classification. And that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. Although officially a men’s fragrance, it’s one to be worn and enjoyed by women too.

Cartier Declaration EDT And Cartier Declaration Parfum

Since 1998, several flankers have been added to the Cartier Declaration range. Created by in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, Cartier Declaration Parfum has been launched to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this classic fragrance.

“It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks.”

SO WHAT DOES CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

On first application, but only very briefly, I get the freshness (bitter orange note) of the original Cartier Declaration. And then there are powerful and seductive hits of leather and spice (cardamom, cumin notes). The base features standout notes of wood (cedar, amberwood) and vetiver. If this all sounds terrifically deep and smoky, that’s because it is.

Cartier Declaration EDT and Cartier Declaration Parfum

LEATHER REPORT: If I am going to do some product placement on my blog, then it better be something super. I took these pics of Cartier Declaration Parfum in the studio of the very talented leather craftsman Matthias Matthee. This work in progress is a customised backpack made from vintage black leather and with blanket stitching. Check him out on Instagram.

If I had to compare the two, I would say that the original has more of a sparkling quality, whereas Cartier Declaration Parfum goes into darker and denser territory. Cartier Declaration Parfum is a fitting tribute to the original, while still standing on its own merits.

Cartier Declaration Parfum, R1 230 for 50ml and R1 785 for 100ml.