GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE Archives

January 11, 2020

The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Image: Fragrance One.

THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading.

October 26, 2019May 14, 2020

Best Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25^th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

**ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

**NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

**KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)**

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

**L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)**

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

* Available at Skins Cosmetics.

July 8, 2017July 12, 2017

Fragrance Reviews: Gucci Guilty Absolute, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

So what’s on the Fragroom sniff-list this week? Well, we have three BIG designer fragrances. Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT. I am deliberately reviewing these three fragrances together, as they represent the best of what designer fragrances have to offer.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP

The Gucci Guilty line has been on the market since 2010. While I have not tried all the flankers and limited editions, to me the super-fresh Gucci Guilty Eau EDT was the best of the range. But just when I thought Gucci Guilty was becoming a bit predictable, Gucci Guilty Absolute arrived.

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele is a very brave release for Gucci.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (Woodleather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (Goldenwood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing.

To my nose Gucci Guilty Absolute is almost medicinal in character. And I mean that in a very good way. With its deep leather vibe, it pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage. (PS: Did you know Gucci will be celebrating its 100^th birthday in 2021?) Gucci Guilty Absolute is not a get-as-many-as-you-can crowd-pleaser, so not everyone will “get” it. Either way, it’s good to see Gucci taking some risks with this new fragrance.

Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, R1 210 for 50ml, R1 605 for 90ml and R1 895 for 150ml.

Prada Luna Rossa Carbon EDT

I am always very excited about a new Prada fragrance, as the Italian luxury brand doesn’t just churn ’em out. Of course, it’s in the money-making business, but there’s always a conceptual intelligence to the Prada aesthetic. And so it is with the latest addition to the Prada Luna Rossa range, originally launched in 2012.

A fougère with a modern twist, Prada Luna Rossa Carbon has been crafted as a fusion of botanicals and synthetics, the natural and industrial. It features top notes of Italian bergamot and pepper; middle notes of lavender, soil tincture, water, metal and coal; and base notes of patchouli and ambroxan.

Perfumer Daniela Andrier has created all the Prada Luna Rossa fragrances. And her latest creation reflects the above-mentioned contrasts with aplomb. As with many Prada fragrances, there’s something quite austere about Prada Luna Rossa Carbon. Yet it’s sophisticated stuff at the same time, because there are no silly gimmicks to grab the attention.

In my opinion, Carbon is the best in the Prada Luna Rossa range. It’s well worth sniffing out if you’re partial to lavender. While you’re at it, please also check out the award-winning, iris-infused L’Homme Prada EDT.

Prada Luna Rossa EDT, R990 for 50ml and R1 355 for 100ml.

**Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT**

A new Thierry Mugler A*Men fragrance is always cause for celebration. Originally launched in 1996, there are now 17 fragrances in the A*Men line, including the latest incarnation. You would think that with the umpteenth flanker, A*Men would have run its course. Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint proves otherwise, with a new variation on the love-it-or-hate-it gourmand formula.

So what does Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint smell like? There’s a lot going on here, with notes that include peppermint, patchouli, tonka bean, geranium, vanilla and coffee. If that sounds totally scrumptious, that’s because it is.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is the olfactory equivalent of over-indulging in after-dinner mints. Remember, this is Thierry Mugler we are talking about, so reserve and restraint are not on the menu.

Sure, Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint is not the very best in the range (my favourites are still the original and the honey- and tobacco-laden A*Men Pure Havane). But kudos to nose Jacques Huclier, who has created all the A*Men fragrances, for playing with our noses again.

Thierry Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT, R1 195 for 100ml.

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