Tag: GROOMING

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4 Top Grooming Tips: How To Apply Your Eye Cream, How To Store Your Fragrance

Tips Eyes

Grooming can be hard work if you’re not equipped with the right tools and essential know-how. For myself, I know there’s always (g)room for improvement. I hope these top grooming tips help alleviate any confusion.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR EYE CREAM

Up until a few months ago, I used to apply my eye cream/serum with a heavy hand. Like many of us, I rubbed it under my eye, the inside outwards. And then Dermalogica’s national training manager, Diana van Sittert, put me right with these top grooming tips. As the skin surrounding the eye area is super-thin and sensitive, it needs to be treated with the care it deserves.

  • Dispense a pea-sized amount onto your ring fingers.
  • Dot the product under your eyes, moving from the outer corners inwards.
  • Circle the product around your eyes three times.

HOW TO DRY YOUR HAIR

Easy enough, right? Shower, dry vigorously and off you go. Absolutely – if you want to damage your hair. But if you want to maintain the condition and shine of your hair, best follow these top grooming tips from hair salon owner Penny Cheong:

  • After hair has been shampooed and conditioned, use a smooth, absorbent towel, preferably one made of a micro-fibre fabric, not a rough cotton terry towel.
  • Remove the excess water by gently pressing the towel to your head. Avoid vigorous scalp rubbing.
  • The aim is to remove excess water, but to keep some moisture and allow your hair to naturally air-dry further.
  • Aggressive towel-drying damages the hair cuticles and can also damage the follicles, leading to premature hair loss – something all men would rather avoid

Tips HairHOW TO PERK UP TIRED LOOKING SKIN

You haven’t slept well again or you’ve pulled an all-nighter. And your face is looking haggard as hell. While there are plenty of products that promise a quick rescue job, there’s a highly effective solution right inside your freezer. Ice cubes. These are great for increasing facial blood circulation and de-puffing the eye area, among other benefits.

  • Wrap the ice cube in a paper serviette and circulate around the problem areas. Don’t apply ice directly to your face, as this could cause broken capillaries.
  • If that’s too extreme for you, a good splash of cold water also helps banish a multitude of sins.

Tips IceHOW TO STORE YOUR FRAGRANCE

Did you know that if you don’t store your fragrances the right way, they can spoil over time? What a waste that would be! While you don’t need to build a Chateau Lafitte Rothschild-worthy cellar for your precious perfumes, think of them as a composition of fine molecules that needs to be protected from the harsh elements.

  • Keep your fragrances out of direct sunlight.
  • Your stash of fragrances looks mightily impressive in your bathroom, but all that steam and up-down temperature is not going to do them any good.
  • Some aficionados insist that the refrigerator is the best place to store fragrances, but there’s not much consensus on that. The main thing is to store them in a cool, dark place. A cabinet or box will do.

PS: While Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! makes for a cool photo prop, it’s also a darn good fragrance. So while I have your attention, I will give it a well-deserved punt. The notes of grapefruit, incense, sandalwood, vanilla and black pepper come together beautifully in this one. Simplicity is the ultimate seduction.

Tips Fragrance

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FRAGRANCE REVIEW: AZZARO WANTED

Azzaro Main Pic

The first BIG men’s fragrance launch of 2017, Azzaro Wanted, is here – well, in South Africa, at least. Judging by the TV advertising, massive window displays in my local shopping mall and heavy-handed influencer marketing, there’s a fair amount of money behind this one to ensure it’s one of the year’s top sellers.

The revolver-like cylindrical shape bottle has already generated reaction and will no doubt see a lot of Instagram action.

I am always intrigued by the type of man these big-name fragrances have in their sights, so allow me to share the following from the Azzaro website: “The story of Azzaro Wanted is the story of a Wanted man. He’s charismatic, talented and radiant, desired by women, envied by men. He boldly takes chances with complete confidence and dares to change his destiny to get whatever he desires.”

Okay, so Azzaro Wanted is definitely created to be a seduction scent. But the problem with hype is that we can easily forget what’s really important, so putting all of the above aside, is Azzaro Wanted any good?

Azzaro Second

I have spent the last two weeks living with this woody-spicy fragrance. I get a strong and appealing whiff of apple after the initial opening of lemon, before it settles into a familiar-ish tonka bean and amber wood vibe. Other listed notes include ginger, lavender, mint, cardamom, juniper, geranium and vetiver. On my skin, it fades quickly after a couple of hours, but other online reviewers have reported “beastly” performance.

While Azzaro Wanted is not a bad fragrance, it’s not spectacular either. Apart from the bottle, it does not have enough personality to make it stand out. If you are keen to buy a new designer fragrance this year, I would hold out for Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP, with its sumptuous take on leather.

Azzaro Wanted EDT, R955 for 50ml and R1 200 for 100ml, is available at selected Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars, Foschini, Red Square, Stuttafords and Truworths stores.

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THE SUNDAY GROOMING SESSIONS

Not to be confused with some post-post-nightclubbing comedown, the Sunday Grooming Sessions are often my favourite part of the week. Relaxation does not come easily to me, so this is the one time of the week I impose some downtime on myself.

The Sunday Grooming Sessions are the perfect time for me to:

  1. Slow down and get off the busy express.
  2. Take care of myself. After all, grooming is not just about looking presentable and well put together – it’s a fundamental act of self-care.
  3. Have some fun and get messy with products.

The products below have all become part of my recent Sunday Grooming Sessions. But a few months from now, no doubt I will be playing with a whole new mix.

SIX SENSATIONAL SKINCARE GLYCOLIC ACID 8% FOAMING FACE WASH

Glycolic acid, one of the main alpha hydroxy acids, is renowned for its cleansing, exfoliating and anti-ageing properties. In small doses, like this face wash, it can form an essential part of your daily grooming routine. Kudos to this South African product for delivering on its promise of breaking down skin surface build-up, without stripping my skin.

Six Sensational Skincare Glycolic Acid 8% Foaming Face Wash, R415 for 200ml, http://sixskincare.com

CRABTREE & EVELYN TAROCCO ORANGE, EUCALYPTUS & SAGE SHOWER GEL

I do love a good scrub in the tub and on Sundays, bathing is not the rush job it is during the week. This zesty shower gel is the perfect accompaniment. It foams up nicely, while the main ingredients condition the skin. While I might be living in an apartment in suburban Johannesburg, South Africa, it does a good job of conjuring up a sunny Sicilian vibe, with its notes of orange, bergamot and neroli.

Crabtree & Evelyn Tarocco Orange, Eucalyptus & Sage Shower Gel, R400 for 250ml, http://crabtree-evelyn.co.za/

DERMALOGOCA DAILY SUPERFOLIANT

Did you know that environmental pollution is a huge contributing factor to ageing? Building on the success of Dermalogica’s superb Daily Microfoliant, this fine-powder product contains several ingredients (including white charcoal; papain, lipase and subtilisin enzymes; malic and lactic acids; and niacinamide) to combat pollutants and smooth the skin. I love the application process (just add water to the grey powder, apply to the face and gently massage).

Dermalogica Daily Superfoliant, R1 180 for 75g, from authorised Dermalogica spas, salons and skin centres nationwide, www.dermalogica.co.za

KIEHL’S CILANTRO & ORANGE EXTRACT POLLUTANT DEFENDING MASQUE

Hmmmm, do I spot an anti-pollution skincare trend? This mask contains a potent mix of ingredients to fight existing damage to the skin and protect against future damage. You are supposed to apply it to the skin, leave for five minutes, tissue off the excess and then sleep with the remainder. I prefer to leave it on for 30 minutes and then wash it all off. This mask gets a big thumbs up for its super-moisturising and -cleansing effects. Cool green colour too!

Kiehl’s Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, R485 for 75ml, www.kiehls.co.za

ATELIER COLOGNE TREFLE PUR

Sunday Grooming Sessions call for a light, fresh and uplifting fragrance. Well, hello, Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, with notes of bitter orange, neroli, cardamom, basil, patchouli, oakmoss and cedarwood. Each time I spray this one, I can imagine it in the form of a sparkling cocktail. Actually, pretty much all of the Collection Originale fragrances (with their concentrated citrus accents) from this French maison would do the trick on a Sunday.

Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, R2 300 for 100ml and R3 600 for 200ml, Edgars stores

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ARE YOU A FRAGRANCE SNOB?

Snob Avon
CHEAP AND CHEERFUL… But not for public display.

If you think that the world of fragrance is just about pretty bottles and nice smells, think again. Welcome to the realm of the fragrance snob. I use this term affectionately, because I am guilty sometimes of being a frightful fragrance snob.

Of course, I am not the only one. So read through the statements below to see how you place on the snob-o-meter. Be honest. I won’t judge you…

  • If there’s one thing that gets you going, it’s the commercialisation of perfumery. You regularly vent on Fragrantica about the umpteenth flanker in a designer fragrance range and how the once mighty have fallen so low.
  • And let’s not even got started on the reformulation or discontinuation of your favourite fragrance.
  • And celebrity fragrances…
  • You speak about the masters of fragrance as if they are your best friends. Sometimes you even know their fragrances better than they do.
  • Now that everybody loves Comme des Garcons fragrances, you are on the hunt for a new niche fragrance house. Escentric Molecules, Laboratory Perfumes and Nasomatto are just some of your new faves. For now, at least…
  • You are known for your mastery of fragrance-speak, of which you are very proud. Words like “sillage”, “projection”, “chypre”, “juice”, “drydown”, “layering”, “neo-oriental” and “absolue” come so easily to you.
Snob CDG
FINDING A NEW NICHE: The more obscure, the better.
  • You have a soft spot for some cheap and cheerful fragrances from the likes of The Body Shop, Avon and Yardley but, heaven forbid, these would never feature on your Instagram. You would rather use IG to display your vintage Christian Dior Eau Sauvage and Guerlain Vetiver.
  • You can debate the note structure of a fragrance for hours and are adamant that you can detect the rare wild Haiti rose as a top note in so-and-so’s newest scent, even though it’s not listed in the official note structure.
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PRODUCT REVIEW: LAB SERIES MAX LS POWER V LIFTING SERUM

 

Lab Series Main Pic Resize

I take great pleasure in “reading” packaging. In this case I am not talking about ingredients and instructions, although I enjoy reading those too. I am talking about the subtle and not-so-subtle messages conveyed through the choice of colours and containers for a product or range.

So where I am going with this? Well, with its super-slick and clinical packaging, Lab Series is a great case study for the messages it transmits. High-Tech + High-Performance (With A Price To Match).

Founded in 1987, the American brand (part of the Estee Lauder Companies group) comes with a highly effective reputation, so this Power V Lifting Serum (from its Max LS anti-ageing line) has been on my must-try radar for some time.

As a 40-something gent, I can do with all the help I can get in fighting the signs of facial ageing (yip, that means tell-tale wrinkles and skin not being as firm as it used to be).

Apart from Lab Series’ stellar reputation, I was expecting big things from this product, as it is a serum. Unlike standard creams and lotions, a serum is packed with more active ingredients and less fillers.

Lab Series Secondary Pic Resize

I have been using this product for well over a month now, morning and night. It gets a big thumbs up for delivering on two of its promises: a much-needed moisture boost and reducing the appearance of fine lines. It’s also easily absorbed and doesn’t leave a greasy film. While it’s a premium product, you also only need to use a little each time – another of the great benefits of using a serum.

I reckon I need to use it for longer to see more visible results on the other three promises: supports natural collagen, tightens the look of contours and lifts skin’s appearance for a more sculpted appearance. I will get back to you when I am looking more chiselled.

Either way, Lab Series Max LS Power V Lifting Serum provides top results in very sexy packaging.

Lab Series Max LS Power V Lifting Serum, R650 for 30ml, is available from Edgars stores nationwide.

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7 WAYS TO LOOK FRESH WITHOUT SPENDING A CENT

7 Ways Water

While grooming can be an expensive business, you don’t have to spend a fortune either to look good. Read on for a mix of common sense and freebie finesse.

DRINK MORE WATER

While there’s no conclusive scientific evidence that H2O is an anti-ageing tonic, as proclaimed by countless celebs, drinking enough water throughout the day is highly effective in minimising the appearance of fine lines and plumping up the skin. So drink up and slowly does it.

CONQUER THOSE UNRULY EYEBROWS

Messy eyebrows are guaranteed to add several years to your face. Never mind that they are highly distracting for anyone looking at you. Arm yourself with a pair of tweezers and judiciously pluck (minor ouch!) any obviously out-of-place hairs. A few words of caution: Don’t go to the other extreme and over-pluck your brows. You want to look fresh, not feminine. PS: While you’re at it, tackle any unsightly nasal and ear hairs. Your partner will thank you for it.

7 Ways Tweezers

STRESS LESS

The funny thing about stresses, worries and burdens is that they eventually show up on your face (and elsewhere) as frown lines – and no premium product will take care of that. While it’s impossible (and unhealthy) to eliminate all worries, it’s important to find some stress-relief techniques that work for you. Although this is very much a work in progress, I find journalling my thoughts and a bit of art therapy good for me. My father swears by walking and looks way younger than his 82 years as a result.

7 Ways Stress

SNAP UP SOME FREE SAMPLES

The next time you are perusing the fragrance and grooming product counters, ask the sales consultant for a free sample. Apart from being budget-friendly, this is also a smart way to test a product before committing to a purchase. These promotional freebies are often in limited supply, so be nice to the consultant if you want them to part with the goods.

7 Ways Samples

VOLUNTEER TO BE A MODEL

No Zoolander antics required. Apprentice hairdressers need to practise their skills on a real person, so inquire at some of the larger hair salon chains if they require models. These apprentice sessions are supervised, so relax. Similarly, beauty colleges offer free (or reduced price services) for a session with a trainee therapist. This way you score a facial, manicure or massage and the student gets valuable experience. A win-win situation all round. You can’t argue with that.

7 Ways Model

CLIP THOSE CLAWS

While a professional manicure or pedicure is money well spent, sticking to the basics at home will serve you well. Make it a habit to cut your nails (both hands and feet) once a week. There’s just no excuse for Hobbit-like digits.

7 Ways Claws

CUT DOWN ON THE SMOKING, COFFEE AND BOOZE

From a pure vanity perspective, smoking is ageing in the long term. Fact. Excessive consumption of coffee and alcohol can also lead to short-term dehydration, which shows up on your face quicker than you can say, “Another please pronto!” Enough said.

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PRODUCT REVIEW: FREEMAN 5-IN-1 TOTAL CONTROL CLAY MASK

Freeman Mask Main Pic

There’s nothing like a face mask for some good ol’ SOS (save our skin). If I am being particularly virtuous, I will ensure I face mask (is there such a verb?) at least once a week.

Thanks to their bright and eye-catching packaging, I have tried out a few products from this American range before, including the Cucumber Peel-Off Mask and the Acai Purifying Clay Mask. Both of these products worked very well for me.

While men are increasingly aware of the benefits of regularly using a face mask, there aren’t a lot of male-specific masks in the grooming sections of our major retailers. So I was keen to put the Freeman 5-in-1 Total Control Clay Mask with Whiskey Rye through its paces.

This masks contains a number of ingredients to address the five major skin concerns of men: bentonite and kaolin clays to absorb excessive oil; rye extract and willow bark to fight blackheads;  tea tree oil to reduce the appearance of large pores; coconut oil to moisturise skin; and aloe vera to reduce irritation.

Recognising that a lot of men now have beards or major stubble before having a clean shave (that’s me), the Freeman 5-in-1 Total Control Clay Mask is billed as beard-friendly. So I tried out this mask when I had a major five-day growth. In fact, as I type this, I am allowing this mask to do its thing. We can’t get more real than that.

Freeman Number 2
MASK AND YE SHALL RECEIVE: What a messy boy.

As per the instructions, I left it on for five minutes. Call me strange, but I enjoy the tingle that accompanies the application of many masks. Unfortunately, this mask denied me that pleasure. I also found that the mask did not really dry enough in that time, so I left it on for 10 minutes. Unlike some masks, which have got stuck in my growth, this one was easy peasy to wash off with warm water.

The big question, though: Would I buy the Freeman 5-in-1 Total Control Clay Mask again after I have used all 175ml of it? While my skin felt cleaner and more hydrated after use, it did not deliver that essential boost, so nope. There are better masks, for more or less the same price. In fact, the other masks in the Freeman range, mentioned above, actually do a better job than this one. Do your skin a favour and rather check out the unisex Cucumber Peel-Off Mask, highly recommended for clarifying and moisturising. Its peeling off process is also cool if, like me, you’re into that kind of thing.

Freeman 5-in-1 Total Control Clay Mask with Whiskey Rye (R92.95 for 175ml) is available from Dis-Chem stores.

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PRODUCT REVIEW: DERMALOGICA PHYTO REPLENISH OIL

Dermalogica 1I have been a big fan of Dermalogica products ever since I first tried their Daily Microfoliant, a highly effective exfoliator that’s gentle to the skin. More recently, their revitalising Charcoal Rescue Masque has been added to my list of grooming essentials.

If I do not prioritise it, my skin often looks lacklustre and, ahem, older than it should. So I was very keen to put Dermalogica’s new Phyto Replenish Oil to the test.

This product promises dewy skin (yes, please) by reinforcing the protective barrier through a combination of phytoactives (including camellia and tamanu oils), an essential lipid blend (including orchid flower and chia seed oils) and an antioxidant shield against free radical damage (including sunflower, rice bran and rosemary extracts).

That sounds like an impressive list of ingredients, but nothing like putting a product to the test. So for almost four weeks, I have been using Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil as part of my nightly grooming routine, applying several drops to my skin after cleansing and moisturising.

The first thing I noticed about this product is how easily it is absorbed. I have used several face oils and many of them, despite claims to the contrary, have not absorbed this well.

For the first week I couldn’t detect any noticeable difference to my skin, but by the end of the second week of use, it started looking healthier and more hydrated. Almost four weeks in, there’s no doubt this is another top-performing product from Dermalogica.

At R1 290 for 30ml, yes, Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil is a little on the pricey side and there are cheaper face oils out there. That said, this product is worth every cent.

Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil, R1 290 for 30ml, is available from Dermalogica concept stores and Dermalogica stockists. For more information, www.dermalogica.co.za.

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A ROCK ‘N ROLL WEEK WITH JOHN VARVATOS FRAGRANCES

While many South African men will not be aware of John Varvatos’ major fashion credentials, they are about to get a good dose of the American designer’s rock ’n roll aesthetic through the recent launch of his fragrances in the country.

Before launching his own menswear label in 2000 that now includes clothing, accessories and shoes, Detroit-born Varvatos worked for the likes of Calvin Klein and Polo Ralph Lauren. The John Varvatos range of fragrances was launched in 2004, with the same meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship that characterises his menswear.

As a keen fragrance Instagrammer (@richgoller), I have been seeing lots of posts on John Varvatos fragrances, so I was super-thrilled to get a package of the five fragrances that are exclusive to Edgars stores: John Varvatos EDT, John Varvatos Artisan EDT, John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT and John Varvatos Oud EDP.

I spent a week sampling and getting to know these fragrances, all created by highly regarded nose Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the man behind scents such as Tom Ford Private Blend Neroli Portofino and Clinique Happy.

These are my quick impressions of them below:

John Varvatos EDT: Love the rich, sexy and sophisticated vibe of this oriental woody scent, featuring standout notes of plum, leather, fig, cinnamon and cedar. A fine fragrance debut that, like a good leather jacket, will always be in style.

JV EDT EditJohn Varvatos Artisan EDT: A very different feel, this one, with a fresh, clean and crisp citrus blast that’s tempered by ginger and woody notes. A good choice for casual-chic moods and if you like your scent to remind you of just-washed shirts.

JV Artisan EditJohn Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT: The hand-knitted rope packaging perfectly captures the Mediterranean inspiration behind this one. With lots of citrus and herbal appeal, it does a great job of conjuring up coastal life, without resorting to marine scent clichés.

JV Artisan Acqua EditJohn Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT: Wow! The boozy Jamaican rum opening of this one is incredible. And then there’s all that addictive sugarcane, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla and cardamom. My favourite of the five, I keep on coming back to this very special one.

JV Dark Rebel EditJohn Varvatos Oud EDP: Mr Varvatos’ take on oud is surprisingly reserved and subtle, but that’s not a bad thing in a genre that can be overpowering and intimidating. While the packaging is opulent, the juice says expensive without trying too hard.

JV Oud EditAlthough the above fragrances are just a snap-shot of the John Varvatos fragrance line (there are nine other fragrances, including the recently released Dark Rebel Rider), they all offer something different to what’s currently available on the South African market. And for men browsing increasingly crowded fragrance counters that can only be a good thing.

PS: If you’re into layering your fragrances, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT + John Varvatos Oud EDP = Super Intoxicating Hit.

John Varvatos EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml and John Varvatos Oud EDP (R1 995 for 125ml) are exclusive to Edgars stores.

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MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN AND 4 OTHER GROOMING MYTHS

Like nutrition and health, the world of grooming is riddled with myths, fictions and half-truths. These are some of the most common myths:

MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN
Wishful thinking, guys. This may be the case in our 20s when shaving helps remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell renewal. Unfortunately, this all changes in our 30s when the realities of ageing are all too visible.

Dermalogica’s national training manager Diana van Sittert says: “After hitting 30 is where all the male ageing concerns start! Using incorrect shaving mediums, such as shaving foam that dehydrates the skin, eventually starts catching up with you, as the skin is not as able to protect itself. The skin needs more hydration after 30 and if the incorrect shaving mediums are not addressed, the skin starts showing the signs of premature ageing.”

So what’s the solution? “Stop using shaving mediums that leave you with a tight feeling immediately. Use an oil- or gel-based medium with skin hydration and protection benefits,” Diana says.

MEN CAN USE THEIR PARTNER’S HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
To quote most men: “I use whatever the wife buys.” Besides delegating the adventure of the male grooming world to the woman in your life, there are some things you need to know, according to award-winning hairstylist Arion Bezuidenhout.

“Professional male haircare products are jam-packed with active ingredients, fragrances and amino acids to suit your hair and scalp environment. Hair technology for men is different to women. As we have bigger pores, sweat glands and more testosterone, we secrete more sebum. Male haircare is therefore slightly stronger to help us manage the effects of these elements,” he says.

ALWAYS SHAVE AGAINST THE GRAIN
A lot of us still get this one wrong, with painful and unsightly results. You should always shave with the grain. “Shaving against the grain can cause in-grown hairs, razor burn, risk of cutting raised follicles, etc. If you want a closer shave, first shave with the grain, rinse, lather up again and then shave across the grain,” says Glen Summers, Sorbet Man’s educator and training manager.

APPLY YOUR FRAGRANCE BY WALKING THROUGH A SPRAYED MIST
This is a great way to watch your hard-earned cash literally fall to the ground. The best way to apply a fragrance is on your pulse points, that is, your lower jaw, neck, shoulders, chest, inner elbows, wrists, forearms and inner elbows. These pulse points are the warmest parts of your body and the heat will activate the fragrance. Choose two of these pulse points when applying your fragrance. Less is more. Trust me.

A FANCY TOOTHBRUSH WORKS BEST
It’s not what you brush your teeth with, it’s how you brush your teeth, so any toothbrush works, says my trusted oral hygienist. “It’s the action of the toothbrush that removes the sticky plaque. Your teeth have four surfaces – outside, inside, left and right – so make sure you clean all of these.” Plus you only need a pea-size amount of toothpaste, not a whole tube, to help do the job.