Tag: GIVAUDAN

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Akigalawood: Givaudan’s Jordi Fernández And Pierre Arnoux Talk About The Captive Ingredient

Jordi Fernandez
IMAGE: Givaudan

I can’t remember exactly when Akigalawood started being used in fine fragrances. But I know exactly when, to quote Malcolm Gladwell, it reached a tipping point when I saw it as part of the name of the 2024 release, New Notes Akigala Mandarino Extrait de Parfum. The captive ingredient*, exclusive to Givaudan, features in increasingly more fragrances. And is a great example of the growing role of biotech in perfumery.

New Notes Akigala Mandarino Extrait de Parfum
IMAGE: New Notes.

From my research, some of the first fragrances to feature Akigalawood: Natura #Urbano EDT (2014), John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT (2015), Miu Miu EDP (2015) and Comme des Garçons Blackpepper EDP** (2016).

Akigalawood - John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT

In recent years, it’s made its way into niche favourites such as Amouage Guidance EDP (2023) and designer standouts such as Hermès Barénia EDP (2025) alike.

I noticed that Givaudan’s Vice-President of Perfumery, Fragrance & Beauty, Jordi Fernández, has utilised it in many of his creations. So I asked him some questions on how and why he uses it. See his answers below.

Jordi Fernandez
IMAGE: Givaudan.

Pierre Arnoux, Givaudan Marketing Manager S&T and FIB, also shared his insights in the interview below that one.

[*In my communications with Givaudan’s communications department, they stressed, “Akigalawood is a captive ingredient (not a molecule). Akigalawood is a natural (complex mixture) and not a single molecule.]

INTERVIEW WITH JORDI FERNÁNDEZ, GIVAUDAN MASTER PERFUMER
How would you describe Akigalawood? 

Akigalawood has vibrant spicy character, combining peppery nuances with woody facets reminiscent of patchouli and agarwood. It gives a unique refined and lasting trail to a fragrance.

I would describe it as a luminous, spicy and full-bodied woody note that enhances the natural depth of patchouli facets in a composition.

Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman EDP
PERFUME PROTECTION: The Jordi Fernández creation Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman EDP (2023) also features Akigalawood.
Were you involved in its development in any way, from a perfumer’s perspective?

I was not directly involved in the development of Akigalawood. In that kind of process, research perfumers collaborate with the scientific team to evaluate new materials as they are created.

“This interaction between scientific and creative perspectives is essential in deciding which new materials will join the perfumers’ palette.”

Later, other perfumers may test these ingredients in real composition contexts. We assess how they perform across different types of briefs, considering aspects such as olfactive fit, technical constraints, regulations, cost and compatibility with other ingredients. This interaction between scientific and creative perspectives is essential in deciding which new materials will join the perfumers’ palette.

Were you a fan of it from the beginning? Or did it take time for you to appreciate it? 

I started working with Akigalawood from the very beginning of its introduction. At first, it took me some time to truly understand its character and how to reveal its full potential in a composition.

Patchouli has always been my favourite ingredient. For me, it represents the power of the earth, a kind of natural strength that is deeply symbolic and that perfumery can express in a very direct way.

Montblanc Explorer EDP
CONNECTION: Montblanc Explorer EDP (2019) expresses Jordi Fernández’s love for both patchouli and Akigalawood.

When I discovered Akigalawood, I immediately felt the connection. It is derived from patchouli and carries part of its character, but in a more refined and contemporary form. From the first trials, I appreciated how it could bring elegance, modernity and a distinct woody-spicy signature to a fragrance.

Specifically, let’s talk about how you’ve used it in some of your creations. 27 87 Genetic Bliss EDP** (2018) features a number of captive ingredients, including Akigalawood. Was it your idea to include all these captives?

Genetic Bliss was the fifth fragrance in the Next Generation Collection, and we decided to explore in depth the possibilities of captive ingredients in perfumery. That’s why we chose to work captive, exclusive, high-quality ingredients that could express a very modern identity.

Akigalawood - 27 87 Genetic Bliss EDP

What did Akigalawood bring to Maison Crivelli Oud Maracujá Extrait de Parfum** (2023)?

It brings a vibrant, spicy-woody facet that echoes the character of natural oud while adding a modern sense of clarity and diffusion. In this fragrance, Akigalawood helps bridge the richness of the oud accord with the fruity intensity of passion fruit and the luminous notes around it. It adds texture and resonance, reinforcing the tension between freshness and warmth, which defines the scent’s identity.

Akigalawood - Maison Crivelli Oud Maracuja Extrait de Parfum

BDK Impadia EDP** (2025) has an oud-ish quality. Would that be Akigalawood at play there?

In Impadia, Akigalawood adds the woody and slightly spicy depth that can evoke the character of oud or agarwood. It brings a refined density and warmth to the fragrance, supporting the floral heart and enhancing the creamy, sensual base. Its spicy-woody vibration helps bridge the freshness of the rose bouquet with the roundness of the woods, contributing to the elegant trail that gives the composition its contemporary personality.

Akigalawood - BDK Impadia EDP

Are you encouraged, in the form of incentives, to use Akigalawood in your compositions?

As perfumers, we have complete creative freedom to choose the materials that best serve the concept and emotion we want to express. Of course, discovering and working with new ingredients is always exciting, but their inclusion in a formula depends entirely on olfactive relevance.

“Working with new ingredients is always exciting, but their inclusion in a formula depends entirely on olfactive relevance.”

INTERVIEW WITH PIERRE ARNOUX, GIVAUDAN MARKETING MANAGER S&T AND FIB

In my quest to find out more about Akigalawood, Pierre Arnoux answered a few questions, too. The S&T and FIB in his designation stand for Science & Technology and Fragrance Ingredient Business, respectively.

Akigalawood - Pierre Arnoux
IMAGE: Givaudan
What are captive ingredients?

Captives are fragrance ingredients that have been created and patented by Givaudan. They are available exclusively to Givaudan perfumers, allowing them to craft original and distinctive olfactive signatures that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

When did Akigalawood become available? 

Akigalawood was introduced into Givaudan’s perfumers’ palette in 2014.

Natura #Urbano EDT
IMAGE: Natura.
Did anyone, in particular, invent it?

Akigalawood was developed by Givaudan’s research team in our biotechnology laboratory in Dübendorf, Switzerland (now Kemptthal).

Why is it such an appealing material? 

Akigalawood adds a refined and contemporary character to fragrances. It combines woody and spicy unique facets that contribute depth and vibrancy to a composition.

Akigalawood - Comme des Garcons Blackpepper EDP

It’s not a synthetic, but an example of a natural produced by biotech. What does that mean? 

Biotechnology is a sustainable way to produce ingredients. It uses natural enzymes to transform materials. These enzymes act like microscopic factories – it’s similar to how enzymes are used in processes like brewing beer or making yoghurt.

We can use biotech to produce synthetic molecules or naturals. For example, Ambrofix is a synthetic molecule and it’s produced by biotech from sugar cane.

“Enzymes derived from fermentation processes act on patchouli oil residues to create a novel fragrance ingredient, allowing it to remain natural while gaining new olfactory qualities.”

Akigalawood, on its own, is a natural material, produced thanks to biotech. In the case of Akigalawood, enzymes derived from fermentation processes act on patchouli oil residues to create a novel fragrance ingredient. This approach allows the material to remain natural while gaining new olfactory qualities.

Was there a particular need for Akigalawood in the perfumers’ palette? 

Givaudan continuously seeks new ingredients that can provide perfumers with distinctive signatures and creative possibilities. Akigalawood was developed to broaden this palette with a new type of woody-spicy facet.

Akigalawood - Fugazzi Orange Crush

Could you give us a quick list of other Givaudan captive ingredients? 

While most captives remain confidential for intellectual property reasons, several have been shared publicly and advertised by our customers as hero ingredients, including Mahonial, Rosyfolia, Pomelol, Rosabloom, Petalia, Sylkolide and Ebelia.

**These fragrances available from Skins.

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Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn Interview: Working Behind The Givaudan Scenes

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn Portrait 1
ALL IMAGES PROVIDED BY GIVAUDAN

As much as I love smelling perfumes for their beauty, I also want to know what goes on behind the scenes in the complex creation of a fragrance. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn is a key account manager at Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.

“Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive.”

She has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn very generously gave me almost two hours of her time to tell me about her work and the company. She also introduced me to the Road Stories Cape Town project. Up-and-coming American perfumer Linda Song spent over a week in Cape Town exploring the region’s unique flora for a collection of 12 wonderful accords. You can read my interview with Linda Song here.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Portrait
FRAGRANCE HUNTER: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn introduced me to perfumer Linda Song’s contribution to Givaudan’s Road Stories project.
What does your role at Givaudan entail?

I am an account manager, responsible for handling South African and Malagasy accounts. Our office is based in Johannesburg and we work with clients across the whole Sub-Saharan African region.

How long have you been with the company?

This will be my 20th year. Time truly flies!

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn portrait
ADDICTIVE: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn says: “Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.”
What is the attraction working for Givaudan?

Givaudan is the number one role-player in the global fragrance and flavour industry. I am surrounded by people who are passionate about what they do. Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn Givaudan Jhb Exterior
UNASSUMING: The exterior of the Givaudan office in Johannesburg.
Is your role very creative?

On the commercial side we are responsible for liaising with our clients and handling projects they may have. I enter these briefs into our global system and then act as intermediary with our evaluators, who in turn task perfumers to create fragrances according to the requirements of the client brief. I then evaluate these submissions to make sure that they answer the client’s requirements (eg, a fine fragrance for a young target market, a hygiene soap range, etc).

Creativity is required in order to ensure that we deliver the best possible fragrances and that we really go out of our way to assist our clients. Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!

“Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!”

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - The LCMS lab
WELL OILED: The LCMS lab where fragrance oils are prepared by staff based on the formulae they receive on the internal system from Givaudan’s perfumers worldwide.
How does the evaluation process work? And what is your role in that process?

The evaluator is a technically (highly) trained person who handles the client brief, once entered into the system. This individual needs a great nose, loads of olfactory experience and the ability to reach out to perfumers and reconcile their offerings with what the commercial team wants.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Wesley Perumal
GREAT NOSE: Wesley Perumal is a personal care evaluator at Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.
Your job entails a fair amount of travel? Any favourite place so far?

I guess it will remain Paris, as this city has been the non-official capital of the fragrance industry since the 17th century. However, in this job you have to be at ease in European surroundings, as well as in bustling African cities.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Paris
IMAGE: VIATOR.COM
How does Givaudan South Africa contribute to the business, particularly fine fragrances?

Our fine fragrance headquarters are based in Paris, France. The South African office works closely with the Dubai and Paris teams to create fine fragrances for our local market. Something few people outside the industry realise is that the same perfumers who create fragrances for the famous premium and niche brands also work on mass market fragrances for countries like South Africa.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - The LCMS lab 2

The creation of a perfume iS a complicated process. Please share some details with us on that.

Perfumers have a very long road to travel before becoming fully fledged “noses” or perfumers. Before, the world’s perfumery hub was based in the town of Grasse in France and it was a bit of a family tradition to work in the perfumery business. However, nowawdays, thanks to the Internet, our perfumers come from all over the world and have different backgrounds and interests, ranging from philosophy to architecture. A solid chemistry training is still a prerequisite, combined with an artistic ability. Creating fragrances is a real art.

“Perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met.”

Having said that, perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met. Some fragrances can be quite simple, while others can contain up to 100 ingredients. Creating a fragrance is a complex process and in our current context of high raw material prices and/or shortages, also a real challenge. The perfumer has to skilfully blend ingredients in such a way that there is a fresh hook in the fragrance, followed by the heart or signature of the fragrance and the dry down notes (amber, woods, or musks that ensure longevity). All of this has to provide a coherent, rounded effect.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Reception Area
BUSINESS AS USUAL: Givaudan will probably celebrate its 250th year in the biz with low-key celebrations, says Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.
How is Givaudan celebrating its 250th year in business?

We are used to working incognito and will probably not have huge celebrations. Despite being 250 years old, most people outside the fragrance industry have never heard of us. We basically work behind the scenes, doing our best to assist our clients to make their brands perform well.

Please tell us about the Road Stories Cape Town Project. Why is this so important to Givaudan?

Sub-Saharan Africa is often neglected when it comes to raw ingredients for use in perfumery. Apart from rooibos, tagete (good old kakiebos) and buchu, none of our other fascinating ingredients are known or appreciated. Linda Song’s 12 beautiful accords, inspired by her visit to the Western Cape, are absolutely exquisite. Her collection shows that we have a lot to be proud of.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Mona lavender
RAW INGREDIENTS: Perfumer Linda Song created a Mona lavender fragrance accord after exploring the species that’s unique to South Africa.
I was very impressed by the Linda Song fragrances you shared with me. What can we do to promote an appreciation of our own ingredients?

For some reason, South Africans do not always appreciate local ingredients. They are not perceived to be aspirational. This is a real pity, as overseas they are often sought-after ingredients and feature in high-end products. Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit in some of its fragrances – what a shame that most of us have never heard of this fruit!

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Maninka Fruit
SOUGHT AFTER: Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit from South Africa in its Boss The Scent fragrance range, according to Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.

There is a tremendous growth and interest in local design and fashion in this country. Maybe it is time that we also start rediscovering the fascinating botanical world that surrounds us. The precious knowledge of the medicinal and other uses of local plants is becoming extinct. It should concern all of us that such an important part of our heritage is vanishing.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Golden Pagoda
BOTANICAL HERITAGE: The golden pagoda is another South African plant that Linda Song used as an inspiration for a fragrance accord.
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Linda Song Cape Town: Launching Givaudan’s Road Stories

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Portrait

I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Image
IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA

Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Broadtoothed Sagebush
UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.
What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?

Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.

“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bloodbell Heath
BLOODBELL HEATH
How did you get involved?

I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bottles

When did you arrive in Cape Town?

April 2017.

How long did you spend in the city?

Nine days.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Golden Pagoda
GOLDEN PAGODA
What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?

Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have  a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Immortelle Everlasting
IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING
What did you actually discover?

That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Erica taxifolia
ERICA TAXIFOLIA
Who helped you make these discoveries?

I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.

Linda Song Road Stories - Collection
COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.
Do many South Africans know about these plants?

This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]

“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”

The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.

It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.

Linda Song Road Stories - Selection Of Bottles

Will the fragrances be available commercially?

These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Mona lavender
MONA LAVENDER
What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?

This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Aloe Arborescens
ALOE ARBORESCENS
What perfume project are you working on now?

I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!

*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan. 

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Caroline Sabas Interview: “I Work On Anything. I’m Up For Any Challenge!”

I first started chatting to perfumer Caroline Sabas a couple of months ago on Instagram when I inadvertently didn’t credit her contribution to the creation of Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP. Since then I’ve been wanting to interview the 44-year-old who has created a very diverse selection of fragrances over the years. These range from Etat Libre d’Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT and Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP to Rihanna Reb’l Fleur EDP and Commodity Vetiver EDP.

Caroline Sabas - Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP

Caroline Sabas grew up in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse. Her perfumer father had a big influence on her decision to pursue the career she says she was “born into”.

In this interview, I asked Caroline Sabas questions about her work, her ultimate ambition and her favourite ingredient to work with, among others.

Where were you born?

I was born in Cannes, France, and grew up in Grasse.

Where did you study perfumery?

I studied at ISIPCA in Versailles and my apprenticeship while in school was at Chanel.

Where are you based now?

I moved to NYC a year after I finished ISIPCA, which is 21 years ago. I’ve been working at Givaudan New York for 15 years now. I love New York. It has such a great vibe and so much energy.

Caroline Sabas - Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT
SUMMER EFFECT: Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT is one of the fragrances created by Caroline Sabas.
When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

As I lived in Grasse and my father was a perfumer, I can say that I was born into it. Growing up surrounded by all those amazing naturals, such as mimosa, jasmine, honeysuckle, rose, moss, just to name a few, made me aware at a very young age that my nose was a great asset. I’ve always been sensitive to smells around me and they always provoked in me a lot of emotions. Then when I was 16, I stepped into the lab of my father’s company. Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter. From that moment on I knew this was exactly what I wanted to do.

“Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter.”

What do you remember most about studying perfumery?

I loved smelling and having to memorise olfactively both natural and synthetic ingredients. Learning about the classics and how they had been created. It’s such a fascinating world and I couldn’t wait to be part of it.

Caroline Sabas - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP
FRAGRANCES FOR EVERYONE: “I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s,” says Caroline Sabas.
What’s your ultimate ambition as a perfumer?

I would like to be able to create fragrances for absolutely everyone. I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s, etc… I’m up for any challenge! And ultimately I am hoping that one of these creations will end up being a best-seller. Mostly because it makes me so happy and moves me when I smell one of my creations on someone else. It is the best feeling. I realise that I touched someone’s heart.

Caroline Sabas - Elizabeth Arden White Tea

One of my favourite fragrances you’ve created is Etat Libre d’Orange You or someone like you edp. How did you create this fragrance?

This was a fantastic project. A great collaboration between Chandler Burr and myself. In 2009, Chandler Burr wrote the book You Or Someone Like You. Later on, Etat Libre d’Orange approached Chandler about making a fragrance having the same title. Chandler asked me if I could be the perfumer behind it. I was more than happy to accept, as I had never approached a project with such a different concept.

Caroline Sabas - Etat Libre d'Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP

Chandler and I started to work together and tried to create what would be the perfect fragrance for the novel’s narrator, Anne Rosenbaum. She lives in LA, is reserved and is an avid reader. She is a gardener as well. Chandler and I kept talking about what kind of notes would be perfect for Anne. But mainly, the fragrance that was created for her is not a perfume. It is a scent. We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be. That’s how Chandler described it to me before I started the creative process.

“We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be.”

You’ve created several celebrity fragrances. Is it different creating a celeb fragrance, as opposed to a designer or a niche scent?

I find the process a little bit different, yes. When I create a fragrance for a celebrity, I have to think about all their followers, their fans. It seems like the crowd to please is very big, so I need to make sure that it has a broad appeal from top to bottom. Whereas for a designer, or a niche brand, I can really think out of the box and pour my creativity into it, without thinking too much about who I am going to please. Here, I am inspired greatly by the designer’s vision that they seek to capture through scent.

Caroline Sabas - Sean John Unforgivable EDT

Do you have a favourite ingredient?

It is hard to come down to one ingredient when we have so many beautiful materials around us. But I will say my favourite is Vetiver.  Five years ago, I travelled to Haiti to experience the vetiver harvest. Haiti is where the very best vetiver in the world is grown.

Caroline Sabas - Vetiver

Givaudan has a very important platform of ethical sourcing, which we call Sourcing for Shared Value. We are dedicated to strengthening the vetiver supply chain, including supporting a co-operative in Les Cayes which helps the farmers and villagers to have a better life. It ensures that the vetiver producers can benefit from a guaranteed minimum price and regular technical support from both Givaudan’s and our partner teams. Our initiative aims to ensure that appropriate practices for vetiver harvesting and distilling are in place.

Caroline Sabas - Vetiver
EARTHY: Caroline Sabas loves vetiver for its many qualities.

This process produces the highest quality oil. I experienced the whole process of distillation, from the fields where the farmers uproot the plant, clean it, and then send it to the distillation factory. At the factory, the air smelled wonderful. I felt like I was wearing a blanket of warm vetiver. It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm. Very addictive to me. Vetiver had been used so much in men’s fragrances. But with this quality, we can create a gorgeous woman’s fragrance as well, using a classic and beautiful ingredient that supports people and the environment.

“It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm.”

Do you a travel a lot for your work?

I do travel for work and I enjoy spending time in our office in Paris and our office in São Paulo. This allows me to stay current with marketplace and lifestyle trends and also participate in various projects in places other than New York and spend time with my colleagues in other countries.

Caroline Sabas - Vince Camuto Divina EDP
DIVINE: Caroline Sabas also created Vince Camuto Divina EDP. It was released in 2018.
Which fragrance do you wish you’d created?

There are a lot of fragrances that I wish I had created. Starting with Chanel No 19, which I find exquisite. Also, one that set such a huge trend and influenced the fragrance category is Angel, which is a Givaudan creation. I am inspired by these classic trend-setters that were so different, so sensual, so disruptive for their time.

Caroline Sabas - Chanel No 19

Do you have a mentor?

My mentor is David Apel [her husband and vice-president senior perfumer at Symrise]. I love what he taught me and always value the incredible education on perfumery he shared with me: from ingredient expertise to his creative approach.  He is one of the best perfumers in the industry today.

Caroline Sabas - David Apel