Tuberose Fragrances: Temptation Beckons

Tuberose Fragrances - Diptyque Do Son Hair Mist

Of all the florals at a perfumer’s disposal, tuberose is probably the most potent, intoxicating and divisive. Depending on how it’s used, tuberose fragrances can range from the green and fresh to the downright exotic and erotic.

There was a time when the white floral was synonymous with the forbidden and all sorts of carnality. Young women, especially, might be led astray if exposed to the temptations of tuberose at night.

Tuberose Fragrances - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

Originally from Mexico, it is now mainly grown in India, Egypt and France. Tuberose absolute is expensive to produce so perfumers will sometimes use a mix of naturals and synthetics to produce a similar effect.

These are some of my favourite tuberose fragrances, from the classics to more recent releases, in a variety of styles and budgets.

Are tuberose fragrances a “yes” or a “no” for you?

Tuberose Fragrances - Gabrielle Chanel L'Eau EDT

ROBERT PIGUET FRACAS EDP (GERMAINE CELLIER)

There are several classic tuberose fragrances on the market, including Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Diptyque Do Son EDT. However, Robert Piguet Fracas remains the benchmark against which all others are measured. It was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2006.

Tuberose is known for its intensity and this EDP, which was launched in 1948, takes it to the max in a most elegant way. Peach and orange blossom notes stand out in the opening, but tuberose takes pride of place in the floral heart of the fragrance, which also includes notes of jasmine, gardenia, osmanthus and narcissus. The sensuality of the tuberose is masterfully complemented by the base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Madonna took major inspiration from Fracas for the creation of her rather good 2012 fragrance debut, Truth or Dare EDP.

Tuberose Fragrances - Robert Piguet Fracas EDP

GIORGIO BEVERLY HILLS EDT (BOB ALIANO)

The debut fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map was launched in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, it’s unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants due to its overpowering style.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood and vanilla notes.

More than four decades later and several changes in ownership later, don’t let its banishment to the budget shelves put you off it.

Tuberose Fragrances - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

GIVENCHY AMARIGE EDT (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

This 1991 classic has aged well and still makes a powerful statement. Created by legendary master perfumer Dominique Ropion, it’s one of those big, complex and busy compositions. So I won’t claim to be able to detect all the notes.

There’s a fruity opening, courtesy of notes of peach and plum. Orange blossom adds to the luxe vibe. The sumptuous heart is all about florals, especially tuberose and mimosa, their green qualities brought to the fore. The abundant warmth radiates through to the drydown where tonka bean, sandalwood and vanilla stand out.

While this scent is sweet from start to finish, it’s never cloying. I’m talking supreme sophistication here.

Tuberose Fragrances - Givenchy Amarige EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Tuberose Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

DIPTYQUE DO SON EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

Inspired by Diptyque co-founder Yves Coueslant’s memories of his childhood in Do Son, Vietnam (then Indochina), this 2005 release from the Paris-based niche brand captures the idea of the special smell of tuberoses wafting on the sea breeze in a beautifully evocative style.

Orange blossom stands out in the intro, with its fresh and sunny sweetness. Its animalic qualities are further developed by the spicy take on tuberose, while jasmine adds to the overall depth. A subtle marine mood is discernible in the background. The warmth of summer is carried through to the drydown, where notes of benzoin and musk are in play.

The 2013 EDP version is also worthy of your attention.

Tuberose Fragrances - Diptyque Do Son Hair Mist

NISHANE TUBERÓZA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)

A 2014 release from the Istanbul-based niche brand’s Blossom Collection, Tuberóza opens in bright and light mode, with notes of ylang-ylang and orange blossom.

When the tuberose from Mexico (where it originates from) takes centre stage (can it be any other way?), it’s more fruity than animalic. Gardenia and marigold strengthen the floral ambience. The drydown sees the synthetic Amberwood, all musky woodiness, in combo with creamy sandalwood.

This extrait is a surprisingly uplifting take on the genre. The diva is so charming and warm, no wonder all the other actors are more than happy to lend their support.

Tuberose Fragrances - Nishane Tuberoza Extrait de Parfum

MEMO MARFA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

The Paris-based niche brand doesn’t just produce some of the best leather fragrances in the biz through their Cuirs Nomades Collection; it also has some superb florals to sniff out.

A 2016 release from the Fleurs Bohèmes Collection, this EDP is quite a streamlined affair by Memo standards and captures the nocturnal heat of its desert city inspiration with creative flair.

Notes of orange blossom and mandarin orange create a suitably warm ambience. Luxuriously creamy tuberose absolute is given more sensual heat with oil of ylang-ylang and its fruity characteristics. An agave accord adds a touch of earthy greenery. The drydown keeps the creaminess going with sandalwood oil, vanilla and musk.

The bottle with its all-seeing eye design is gorgeous too.

Tuberose Fragrances - Memo Marfa EDP

L’INTERDIT GIVENCHY EDP ROUGE (DOMINIQUE ROPION, ANNE FLIPO & FANNY BAL)

Some franchises are more rewarding than others. Since the 2018 re-launch of L’Interdit Givenchy (the original Givenchy L’Interdit was created for Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s), I’ve learned to put any purist tendencies where they belong – in the past.

The range has been proceeding at a steady pace, with a new interpretation every year. L’Interdit EDP Rouge (2021) is my favourite so far. The sexy bottle got my attention first. The scent did the rest.

The opening is all spicy warmth, with notes of ginger, blood orange and pimento leaf. Floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom increase the sensual vibe. Although not officially listed, there’s definitely some animalic tuberose lurking in the bouquet. Creamy sandalwood and spicy patchouli feature in the drydown.

Bloody good stuff, I say.

Tuberose Fragrances - L'Interdit Givenchy EDP Rouge

CHOPARD SPARKLING LOVE EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

As we all know, tuberose can be heavy and domineering at the best of times. And that style certainly has its place.

But if I’m looking for a lighter but still distinctive take on the theme, the 2023 release from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, Chopard Sparkling Love EDP, will do very nicely indeed.

As its name will tell you, Dora Baghriche gives the white floral an effervescent lift with freshness from notes of mandarin and orange and sunny fruitiness from osmanthus and ylang-ylang.

The fruitiness continues into the drydown with Helvetolide, the dsm-firmenich synthetic musk known for its sophisticated smoothness.

Tuberose Fragrances - Chopard Sparkling Love EDP

GABRIELLE CHANEL L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

While its predecessors, Gabrielle Chanel EDP (2017) and Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP (2019), are more voluptuous  tuberose fragrances, the 2024 flanker, Gabrielle Chanel L’Eau EDT, is well worth checking out in its own right if you’re looking for something subtle.

The initial berry fruitiness leads to a floral bouquet of jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom and Grasse tuberose. While dialling down the tuberose, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge takes it in a green and fresh direction, with creamy sandalwood in the drydown completing it.

It’s lighter than the above-mentioned versions. But there’s more than enough character here to keep you coming back for more.

Tuberose Fragrances - Gabrielle Chanel L'Eau EDT

*These tuberose fragrances available in South Africa at Skins.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT: 40 Years Of The Loud & Proud 80s Icon

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.

It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.

“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.

Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.

That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

 

Cheap Thrills: 8 Best Budget Fragrance Buys

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP

So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.

“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”

Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.

NO 4711 Original EDC

This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - No 4711 Eau de Cologne

The Body Shop Activist EDt

This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - The Body Shop Activist EDT

Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)

I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP
RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.
Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP

Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Rogue by Rihanna EDP

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)

I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds EDP

Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT

There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Jeanne Arthes Cobra For Men EDT

Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)

Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDP