For such a best-seller, it’s taken a long time for Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP to be released. The original EDT was launched in 1996 and, like it or not, came to epitomise the decade’s trend for aquatic fragrances.
Along the way, it generated a succession of flankers, including Acqua di Giò Essenza EDP (2012), Acqua di Giò Profumo EDP (2015), Acqua di Giò Absolu EDP (2018), Acqua di Giò Profondo EDP (2020) and Acqua di Giò Profondo Lights EDP (2021). All variations on the sophisticated sun-and-sea theme.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
Acqua di Giò EDP was released in 2022 and with the popularity of the franchise and a mega marketing budget to match, I tell you all you need to know about this latest addition.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
Interesting to note that while the Italian luxury brand released relatively few flankers in the fragrance’s earlier life cycle, it seems to have increased the frequency in recent years to maximise its profitability.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
The new release is also very much in line with the company’s eco credentials. All sizes of Acqua di Giò EDP (40ml, 75ml, 125ml) can be unscrewed and refilled at home with the 150ml refill bottle sold separately. The wood cap means less use of plastic.
Various reforestation and conservation projects in Brazil, Madagascar, Peru and Zimbabwe contribute to the company’s carbon neutrality target by 2025.
PERFUMER
Where does one start with Alberto Morillas, creator of all the fragrances in the Acqua di Giò range?
Alberto Morillas is the master perfumer behind all the versions of Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. Image: Mizensir.
Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics with his finely tuned instinct for commercial success and knowledge of natural and synthetic ingredients.
There’s a good chance you’ve worn one of his many creations in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).
If you want to know why Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT (1995), Givenchy PI EDT (1998), Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT (1999), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Bvlgari Man EDT (2010), Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT (2016), Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017), Gucci Bloom EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).
GOLDEN TOUCH: Bvlgari Rose Goldea Blossom Delight EDP is one of the many creations of Alberto Morillas.
There’s a good reason why uber-vlogger Jeremy Fragrance worked with him to create his own range, Fragrance.One.
The Spaniard was awarded the Prix François Coty in 2003 and The Fragrance Foundation (USA) Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013, and launched his own perfume brand Mizensir in 2015.
Image: Mizensir.
SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?
The opening brings on a wave of Mediterranean citric freshness, thanks to Calabrian green mandarin*. It’s slightly sharp with a tinge of sunny floralcy.
There’s no missing the marine accord after that. It’s been amplified with Yodanol, a Firmenich captive molecule that enhances freshness with a velvety floral-green aspect. This should please those who found the original’s freshness faded too quickly.
Provencal clary sage heart* gives the scent aromatic muskiness (the herb is a good substitute for ambergris, as the real stuff from the sperm whale costs a fortune and is rarely used nowadays), with floral assistance from notes of lavandin and geranium bourbon heart from Madagascar*.
The drydown is in typically masculine woody territory via a combo of patchouli from Guatemala*, Atlas cedarwood essence and vetiver from Haiti*.
With its long-lasting freshness, Acqua di Giò EDP is certainly stronger and more focused than the original EDT. It’s easier to detect the listed notes in it. While still elegant and timeless, perhaps it has lost some of the complexity and soft appeal of the original in the process. There’s no doubt, it’s going to sell very well. Here’s hoping the brand doesn’t flanker the life out of this classic in the coming years.
*These ingredients have been sustainably sourced, according to the brand.