Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.
Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP
Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.
A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.
According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.
Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.
A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.
Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.
Amouage Lyric Man EDP
Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.
“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”
Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).
It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.
I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.
Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.
Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP
Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.
Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.
Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.
There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.
“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”
As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.
Available on the brand’s website.
