Why is there so much interest in the 2023 release Dior Dioriviera EDP? Yes, it’s the latest launch from the upmarket, quality-assured La Collection Privée Christian Dior.
But more than that, it’s the first creation from Francis Kurkdjian as the revered luxury French brand’s in-house perfumer. So not surprisingly, there’s going to be much scrutiny of this fragrance.
TALKING FRAGRANCE: Yours truly with Francis Kurkdjian when he was in Cape Town in 2019.
PERFUMER
Francis Kurkdjian made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male EDT in 1995 at the age of 26. This was followed by numerous other high-profile scents, including:
+ Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999)
+ Giorgio Armani Armani Mania EDT (2002)
+ Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005)
+ Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier2 EDP (2005)
+ Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance EDP (2006)
+ Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007)
+ Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011)
+ Carven L’Eau Intense EDT (2016)
+ Burberry Mr. Burberry EDT (2016)
+ Kenzo World EDP (2016)
In between, in 2009, he and former Ernst & Young associate Marc Chaya founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most popular and respected niche houses in the fragrance biz. Under that banner, he’s notched up many more favourites such as Aqua Universalis EDT (2009), Masculin Pluriel EDT (2014), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015), Grand Soir EDP (2016) and Gentle Fluidity Silver EDP (2019). Oh, and you might have heard of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP (2015).
In 2021, the fragrance world got extremely excited indeed when it was announced that the multi-award-winning Parisian would succeed François Demachy as Dior in-house perfumer. And ever since then, there’s been much anticipation and speculation about when his first creation in the prestigious position would materialise.
PS: Dior Dioriviera EDP isn’t the first scent Francis Kurkdjian has created for the brand (also owned by LVMH). He also produced Dior Cologne Blanche EDP (2004), Dior Eau Noire EDP (2004) and Dior Homme Cologne EDT (2007).
SO WHAT DOES DIOR DIORIVIERA EDP SMELL LIKE?
Is that fig? Yes, sirree! The note can range from the tropical to the gourmand. Here, it’s fresh, woody and unmistakably green.
If you’re familiar with the perfumer’s creations for his own eponymous brand – for example, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Homme EDT (2009), Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP (2014) and Maison Francis Kurkdjian L’Homme À la Rose EDP (2020) – you’ll know he knows his way around the floral. In Dior Dioriviera EDP, it’s not prominent but adds to the overall fruity-floral effect.
As with all fragrances from the range, you’ll be paying a fair amount for it. But when you do the arithmetic and if you go for the 125ml bottle (it’s also available in 40ml and 250ml), it’s competitively priced compared to many niche equivalents.
The 2021 release Dior Eden-Roc EDP riffed on the French Riviera theme and Dior Dioriviera does that too in a clean and chic way.
Looking for a beastly banger? Move on. But if you’re looking for understated French elegance, please do stay. That said, this scent could bring you lots of compliments, as I discovered on my first day of wearing it. More importantly, you will feel incredibly pleased with yourself for being so refined and the epitome of stealth wealth.
Dior Dioriviera EDP is available in South Africa from the brand website and the Christian Dior store in Sandton City.