Tag: FRAGRANCE

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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH MASTER PERFUMER BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR

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MASTER NOSE: Bertrand Duchaufour

Born in Nancy, France, and trained in Grasse, the home of French perfumery, Bertrand Duchaufour is widely regarded as one of the masters of modern perfumery. In a career spanning over three decades, the highly sought-after nose has worked with some of the most prestigious names in the biz, including Acqua di Parma, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme des Garçons, Penhaligon’s, Eau d’Italie, Givenchy and Dior.

The creator of modern classics such as Comme des Garçons Series 3, Incense: Kyoto, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, Penhaligon’s Sartorial and Amouage Jubilation XXV took time out of his busy schedule to talk about his creative process, success and current projects.

What fragrance are you wearing today? I don’t wear any fragrance. I try to keep the most distance possible with fragrances and scents. If I can work in a pure way of abstraction, I will do it.

What’s your guiding principle when you create a fragrance? To keep distance and to let time act as much as I do. I am driven by imagination, but that is always driven by an idea or an image. Conceptualisation is important. It’s impossible to have any input without it.

I never know. A success is always a surprise. There is no recipe.

Do you ever take trends into account in your creative process? No, never. I try to be completely free regarding that, even if I go wrong!

Is being a nose a gift or a skill? Both. It’s a gift as soon as we want to do something with it. It’s a skill as soon as we work hard and constantly to improve it.

How do you know when you have created a winner? I never know. A success is always a surprise. There is no recipe.

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SPECIAL PLACE: L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse

You have created well over 100 fragrances. Is there any particular fragrance that has a special place in your heart? Yes, maybe two or three of them, such as the original Eau d’Italie and L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse.

What projects are you working on at the moment? I am working on different fragrance collections for brands such as Phuong Dang and Pont des Arts. Those brands are unknown at the moment and I have developed global collections for them. It is very exciting! I continue to work for other brands like Enchanted Forest, Grandiflora, Neela Vermeire and many others in the same way.

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PASSION PROJECT: Phuong Dang fragrances.

What smell is the most evocative for you? The smell of earth. It’s the biggest and deepest one!

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FRAGRANCE REVIEW: EAU DE LACOSTE L.12.12 MAGNETIC POUR LUI

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The last Lacoste fragrance I tried was the limited edition L.12.12 Energized, released in 2016. That particular EDT was a typically fresh expression of mint, ginger, tuberose and vetiver notes. A good spritz and go.

The latest addition to the L.12.12 range sees a simultaneous launch of his and hers fragrances, Magnetic Pour Lui EDT and Magnetic Pour Elle EDP, inspired by the legendary dynamic between tennis mixed double partners René Lacoste and Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920s. Apparently, this is the first time that the French fashion company has launched a dual male and female scent at the same time.

While I am a sucker for a good story and the Lacoste brand has a fascinating heritage to draw on, nothing like wearing a fragrance in a variety of contexts to get a feel for it.

I have given Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui several outings – from gym, to lunch with a friend, to grocery shopping, even to bed (yes, I do wear fragrances to bed – but that’s another post). On all those occasions I noticed how this fragrance’s initial fresh opening (juniper and bamboo notes) evolved into something warmer and more interesting (patchouli and amber notes).

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However, I also noticed how Magnetic faded fairly quickly and, with its average projection, required a few re-sprays during the day. So if you’re looking for a beast of a fragrance, best step back from that fragrance counter. It’s also not a classic, but then not all fragrances need to be for you to part with your hard-earned cashola.

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui is still a good everyday fragrance, which I found best suited to casual occasions. It’s also probably best suited to younger gents. But I ain’t no ageist, so I will keep this one in my gym bag, which seems fitting for a brand with such a sporty aesthetic.

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui (R950 for 50ml, R1 265 for 100ml and R1 530 for 175ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Truworths, Foschini, Dis-Chem, Clicks and Markham stores.  

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MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN AND 4 OTHER GROOMING MYTHS

Like nutrition and health, the world of grooming is riddled with myths, fictions and half-truths. These are some of the most common myths:

MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN
Wishful thinking, guys. This may be the case in our 20s when shaving helps remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell renewal. Unfortunately, this all changes in our 30s when the realities of ageing are all too visible.

Dermalogica’s national training manager Diana van Sittert says: “After hitting 30 is where all the male ageing concerns start! Using incorrect shaving mediums, such as shaving foam that dehydrates the skin, eventually starts catching up with you, as the skin is not as able to protect itself. The skin needs more hydration after 30 and if the incorrect shaving mediums are not addressed, the skin starts showing the signs of premature ageing.”

So what’s the solution? “Stop using shaving mediums that leave you with a tight feeling immediately. Use an oil- or gel-based medium with skin hydration and protection benefits,” Diana says.

MEN CAN USE THEIR PARTNER’S HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
To quote most men: “I use whatever the wife buys.” Besides delegating the adventure of the male grooming world to the woman in your life, there are some things you need to know, according to award-winning hairstylist Arion Bezuidenhout.

“Professional male haircare products are jam-packed with active ingredients, fragrances and amino acids to suit your hair and scalp environment. Hair technology for men is different to women. As we have bigger pores, sweat glands and more testosterone, we secrete more sebum. Male haircare is therefore slightly stronger to help us manage the effects of these elements,” he says.

ALWAYS SHAVE AGAINST THE GRAIN
A lot of us still get this one wrong, with painful and unsightly results. You should always shave with the grain. “Shaving against the grain can cause in-grown hairs, razor burn, risk of cutting raised follicles, etc. If you want a closer shave, first shave with the grain, rinse, lather up again and then shave across the grain,” says Glen Summers, Sorbet Man’s educator and training manager.

APPLY YOUR FRAGRANCE BY WALKING THROUGH A SPRAYED MIST
This is a great way to watch your hard-earned cash literally fall to the ground. The best way to apply a fragrance is on your pulse points, that is, your lower jaw, neck, shoulders, chest, inner elbows, wrists, forearms and inner elbows. These pulse points are the warmest parts of your body and the heat will activate the fragrance. Choose two of these pulse points when applying your fragrance. Less is more. Trust me.

A FANCY TOOTHBRUSH WORKS BEST
It’s not what you brush your teeth with, it’s how you brush your teeth, so any toothbrush works, says my trusted oral hygienist. “It’s the action of the toothbrush that removes the sticky plaque. Your teeth have four surfaces – outside, inside, left and right – so make sure you clean all of these.” Plus you only need a pea-size amount of toothpaste, not a whole tube, to help do the job.