Jérôme Epinette Interview: “I’m Obsessed With Woods, So You Will Find Them In Almost All My Creations

Jérôme Epinette

The numerous awards Jérôme Epinette has earned in recent years speak volumes about his creative and technical expertise. These include Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year for Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2018 and Fragrance of the Year – Universal Luxury for Byredo Tobacco Mandarin at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2021.

Jérôme Epinette - Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa

Image: Atelier Cologne.

Industry accolades aside, you’ll probably know him for his quality work for a variety of designer, niche and celebrity brands, including:

  • Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP (2009)
  • Nest Midnight Fleur EDP (2012)
  • Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin Cologne Absolue (2014)
  • Frapin The Orchid Man EDP (2015)
  • Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP (2015)
  • Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP (2016)
  • Floral Street Black Lotus EDP (2017)
  • Olfactive Studio Flash Back In New York EDP (2018)
  • Zara Vibrant Leather EDP (2018)
  • Commodity Velvet EDP (2018)
  • Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP (2019)
  • Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT (2019)

Jérôme Epinette - Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP

Born and raised in Burgundy, France, Jérôme Epinette joined the French fragrance and flavour company Robertet in 2003 after completing his studies, which included a Master’s in Biochemistry.

His creations for Swedish niche brand Byredo established his perfumer credentials, with other companies quickly lining up to get a piece of his distinctive magic.

Jérôme Epinette - Byredo Blanche EDP

Now based in New York City, the 46-year-old speaks to Fragoom about where it all started, his love of woods and working with Ariana Grande.

WHO OR WHAT PLANTED YOUR PASSION FOR PERFUMERY?

My mom, who owned perfumes stores in Burgundy when I was young. It gave me her passion for them and allowed me to discover the world of perfumes.

YOU STUDIED AT THE GRASSE INSTITUTE OF PERFUMERY. WITH HINDSIGHT, WHAT ONE THING DO YOU DO YOU WISH THEY HAD TAUGHT YOU THAT YOU HAD TO LEARN FOR YOURSELF?

I had everything I needed to start there, from discovering and remembering a lot of synthetic and natural ingredients, to visiting fields and factories to understand the harvests and the technology behind them. Experience follows when you join a company.

Jérôme Epinette - Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT

Image: Guess.

TELL US ABOUT THE FIRST FRAGRANCE YOU CREATED AS A PROFESSIONAL PERFUMER AND YOUR THOUGHTS ON IT NOW.

I created Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT the first year I joined Robertet [2004]. Michel Almairac, my mentor, helped me realise this first fragrance. It is still relevant, as it was a gourmand chypre, a very popular family as of right now.

Jérôme Epinette - Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT

Image: Montblanc.

YOU’RE VP FINE FRAGRANCE PERFUMER AT ROBERTET. WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?

It’s a more global role, making sure all the perfumers have access to internal and external resources. I am now more involved in new processes on naturals ingredients.

IS THERE A DISTINCTIVE JÉRÔME EPINETTE STYLE? OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE CLIENT BRIEF? 

Every single perfumer has their own signature, and it comes from the ingredients they love to use. I am obsessed with woods, so you will find them in almost all my creations.

Jérôme Epinette - Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP

YOU’VE CREATED SEVERAL FRAGRANCES FOR BRANDS SUCH AS ATELIER COLOGNE, BYREDO, VILHELM PARFUMERIE AND ZARA. IS THAT HOW YOU PREFER TO WORK?

For Zara, creating several fragrances for the company makes it easy to understand each new project.

For niche brands, I enjoy collaborating with those clients very much, because there is a close connection between myself and the owners of the houses. I feel I am part of the brand and that motivates me to come up with something unique.

Jérôme Epinette - Zara Vibrant Leather EDP

Image: Zara.

HOW DID YOU WORK WITH ARIANE GRANDE TO CREATE THANK U, NEXT AND GOD IS A WOMAN?

As soon as I started working closely with her, you know more about what she likes and what could be relevant for her and her brand.

We had specific ideas that we presented to her through luxe brands. She is passionate about perfumes and incredibly involved in the creative process so as soon as she loves something or sees the potential, she will go for it.

Jérôme Epinette - Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP

Image: Ariana Grande Fragrances.

CONGRATS ON YOUR RECENT FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION UK AWARD FOR FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM (BEST INDEPENDENT FRAGRANCE). WHAT MADE THAT PROJECT DIFFERENT FROM OTHERS?

Every project is different. Michelle Feeney, Floral Street owner, had a specific idea and presented it to me. That close collaboration eased the creating process and we produced a more gender-neutral scent.

Jérôme Epinette - Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP

WHAT PROJECT HAVE YOU JUST COMPLETED THAT YOU CAN SHARE WITH US?

Byredo Mumabi Noise EDP.

APPARENTLY, YOU CONSIDERED A CAREER IN WINE. IS THAT SOMETHING YOU STILL FIND TIME TO ENJOY?

Yes, every summer I spend time in France testing and collecting wines.

Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

Michelle Feeney Interview: The Floral Street Founder On The Future Of Beauty

Michelle Feeney

In the four years since it was founded in 2017 by Michelle Feeney, Floral Street has bagged a number of awards, including The Fragrance Foundation Retailer of the Year 2019.

“We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way.” – Michelle Feeney 

Although a small player in the scheme of things, the company has made a big impact with its vibrant, very British approach to vegan, cruelty-free and sustainably produced fragrances. “We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way,” Michelle Feeney says.

Michelle Feeney

In this Fragroom interview, she talks about the future of beauty, green-washing and their latest partnership with the Van Gogh Museum.

You launched Floral Street in 2017. What changes were you picking up in the market that signalled you were onto something?

I have been privileged to enjoy an amazing career in fashion and beauty, creating and establishing global brands, including Crème de La Mer and St Tropez.

Described as a “cult brander”, I’ve been able to help build cult brand status or utilise elements to connect with an audience in new ways. I spent seven incredible years on MAC Cosmetics in NYC, establishing the fashion outreach globally, accelerating the story of the MAC AIDS Fund and playing a key role in launching in over 40 countries. It was a whirlwind!

Michelle Feeney

However, at age 51, I decided to take a gap year. I had the idea for my own brand but wanted time-out to decide how I would do it and if, indeed, the world needed any more products. I realised that the fragrance industry hadn’t evolved in the same way as other beauty categories and saw a gap in the market for a sustainable, modern brand that offers fine fragrance at an affordable price.

Michelle Feeney

I decided to return to beauty in November 2017, launching my independent, “clean” brand, accessible to all. From the very beginning I wanted to make Floral Street a beacon for change, for it to have meaning and core values of environmental consideration. I wanted to stimulate the industry to take action, as consumers are now demanding this. We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way.

Michelle Feeney

Why are vegan fragrances so important to you and how do you define them?

When I am asked, “Why did you produce vegan fragrances”, my answer is, “This is the future of beauty”. This is not a trend; it is an absolute. It is about finding the best way to create fabulous products while lowering the impact on our planet.

“This is the future of beauty. This is not a trend; it is an absolute.” – Michelle Feeney 

I am proud we have gained an international accreditation from Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) for being a vegan and cruelty-free brand. This means we do not use any animal-derived materials and no animals have been harmed in the creation of our perfumes. It verifies that we do not conduct or commission any animal tests on ingredients or formulations or finished products.

Michelle Feeney

Does it limit your perfumer Jérôme Epinette’s creative options in any way?

No, not at all. Jerome (pictured, below) is a master perfumer at Robertet, and we have chosen to partner with them because they are a world leader in sustainable, raw materials.

He has a myriad natural ingredients to choose from, plus the incredible fantasy notes and synthetic accords that are created in the lab. This all makes for the most modern fragrances that are good for you and good for the planet.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

Are vegan fragrances the same as natural fragrances?

Natural ingredients are either vegan or they are not. Quite often the world “natural” is misused and some ingredients in fragrances that are regarded as natural can be allergenic.

We do have percentages of natural materials within our vegan Floral Street perfumes but there are also nature-identical ingredients which serve fragrance equally. As a sustainable brand we also use vegan certified oils in our new scented home products.

Michelle Feeney

How can consumers tell if a brand is truly vegan? There must be a lot of brands claiming to be vegan…

As individuals, consumers should delve into the product or the company to ensure they have the correct accreditation and can back up what they say. Some brands do mislead the consumer by using certain words or phrases but as a responsible company we are transparent and open about our practices and certifications.

Michelle Feeney

We educate the consumer and use the globally recognised Peta bunny logo (pictured, below) as we want them to know what they are buying. This makes it clear for our customers, guiding them to make better ethical choices and purchases.

You’re also a sustainable, eco-friendly brand. How do you ensure that’s not greenwashing, from your Covent Garden, London, store to packaging?

Being sustainable is a journey and we face new challenges every day. It’s not just the fragrance that’s involved in being ethical, we consider the whole life cycle and every element that goes into our final products. From the raw materials and how they are processed, to the recyclable packaging and the responsible manufacturing methods and supply chain. From source to scent, we want consumers to know where we come from.

 We apply the 5 R’s to every aspect of our business – rethink, reduce, reuse, repurpose, recycle.

Michelle Feeney

WHAT’S IN STORE: Michelle Feeney in front of the Floral Street shop in Covent Garden, London. Image: floralstreet.com.

We reduce use by having a high 20% concentration of oil in our fragrances. Our glass candle and diffuser vessels can be reused, and we offer a perfume refill service in our Covent Garden, London, store.

Our award-winning, biodegradable pulp fragrance box (pictured, below) can be repurposed to store keepsakes or grow seeds or herbs in and being compostable, if it does end up in land fill, it won’t leave any trace on the environment.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

All our packaging is widely recyclable, and our paperboard is FSC certified and sourced from responsibly managed forests. We carbon balance via the World Land Trust, and our 2020 certificate confirmed we helped to protect over 6 500m² of critically threatened tropical rainforest.

In addition, we partner with those that share our ethos and principles, including global retailers that lead and champion sustainable ways to shop.

“We also partner with global retailers that lead and champion sustainable ways to shop.” –  Michelle Feeney 

Floral Street is all about “powered by flowers” and from all your releases so far, you’re bringing a fresh new spin to this genre. Is there a personal reason for your floral focus?

Every time I look at a flower it makes me smile. They are joyful, don’t cost much to grow or admire and are the universal language of beauty. Our sustainable scent creations are a modern way to experience the beauty of flowers.

Also, our flagship is in the heart of Covent Garden, London, where the original Victorian flower market was situated, so this floral inspiration flows throughout our store and our brand.

Michelle Feeney

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

I read on the website that Floral Street is against the use of sexuality to sell its products. Please tell us more about that.

Having lived through three decades of beauty advertising and having a teenage daughter myself, I just feel that using sex to sell is lazy and outdated. We do not use the word “sex” or “sexy” anywhere in the Floral Street brand. We have established motivational and empowering words to describe our fragrances and individual moods.

“Having lived through three decades of beauty advertising and having a daughter myself, using sex to sell is lazy and outdated.” – Michelle Feeney 

We are an inclusive brand, inspiring our customers to choose a perfume based on the way they feel. We have changed the conversation around scent and offer an experience where people identify with “who they will be today”. Our customers should be their own “celebrity” at the centre of their life.

What’s next for Floral Street?

My vision is for Floral Street to become a “clean” lifestyle brand. I strongly believe that by leading by example you empower others and the more successful your business, the more change you can influence. I want to give consumers the opportunity to feel good and make better choices that bring sustainable beauty to their everyday life.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

We have just launched our ethical and vegan collections of candles and diffusers, which has taken our eco-credentials and joyful approach into the home. When we were developing them, I realised what we don’t put in is just as important as what we do put in, so we have taken out all harmful elements. This enables the sustainable fine fragrance to shine though so you can “bloom wherever you are”.

Using scent within different spaces can make you feel good and better about life. It’s about self-care and creating the right “mood,” reflecting how you want to feel.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com

Partnerships are also important if you are a small brand. By connecting with others and being part of bigger movements or collaborations, you can tell your story in new and different ways.

As an independent, British brand I was honoured when we were recently chosen as the first fragrance partner of the internationally renowned Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

This four-year partnership enables us to connect with a diverse audience globally in appreciation of fine art and fine fragrance. Our first launch is Sunflower Pop, inspired by Van Gogh’s famous Sunflowers masterpiece and his citation “If one truly loves nature, one finds beauty everywhere.”

Michelle Feeney

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

Floral Street is available in South Africa at Woolworths and ARC Store.

For more on vegan fragrances, see my recent post.

 

Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

Vegan Fragrances

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Vegan Fragrances

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Vegan Fragrances

Two things to note:

  • If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
  • Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Vegan Fragrances

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

Vegan Fragrances

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Petacertified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

Vegan Fragrances

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.