EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP Archives

August 13, 2024

10 Years Of Ex Nihilo: Reason To Celebrate

When Ex Nihilo (Latin for “out of nothing”) was founded in Paris in 2013 by Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier, their aim was to provide an alternative to the clichés of luxury.

A decade later and with a growing international presence that doesn’t compromise on exclusivity and quality, there’s no doubt the trio have succeeded in bringing something different to niche-dom. While distinctly French, their ethos has a refreshingly rebellious edge too.

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

Working with the industry’s best perfumers – including Quentin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto and Jordi Fernández – has paid handsome dividends for the brand. And I appreciate the fact that they acknowledge the expertise of all the creators behind their releases.

Apart from opening standalone stores in Dubai and Los Angeles, in recent years the company has gone the extrait de parfum route with the Quintessence Collection.

This selection of Ex Nihilo fragrances should give you a good idea why this house is worth celebrating (I’m using the release date of its debut launch in 2014) and sniffing out.

EX NIHILO FLEUR NARCOTIQUE EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

The brand’s debut fragrance (2014) remains one of its best-sellers and has developed an enthusiastic cult following over the years for a truly addictive fruity-floral fragrance both men and women can wear.

It opens with the fresh fruitiness of tropical lychee and powdery peach notes. Bergamot keeps it on the right side of sweetness. The florals that follow – peony, jasmine, orange blossom – maintain the airy freshness, but with gorgeous intensity and brightness. The base is all musky and woody, with a hint of earthy moss.

Also look out for the recently released extrait de parfum version (2022), created by the same perfumer.

EX NIHILO VETIVER MOLOKO EDP (GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

If it has vetiver on the bottle, I must try it. If its name references the novel and film A Clockwork Orange, I must try it. This 2014 release doesn’t disappoint.

It opens with the crisp citrus of bergamot and aromatics of cypress. Then plenty of vetiver, woody, earthy and slightly smoky. Just the way I love it. A milk accord and Madagascan vanilla give it a creamy and cosy feeling, while amyris in the drydown amplifies the freshness to complete the composition of intriguing contrasts.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for a vetiver with a twist.

EX NIHILO SWEET MORPHINE EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

With a name like Sweet Morphine, this 2015 release, which plays on the idea of addiction (one of perfumery’s mainstay tropes), delivers in abundance.

It opens with intriguing lilac, fresh floral powderiness in full-on mode. Bergamot, in support, adds to the freshness. There’s more powdery florals in the way of sweet mimosa and iris. The sweetness is heightened with a mega dose of rich bourbon vanilla, while vetiver and patchouli pile on the woody sensuality.

All that powder (get it?) and sweetness might sound like too much of a good thing, but in the hands of Natalie Gracia-Cetto it all comes together in a most effective way.

EX NIHILO ATLAS FEVER EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU)

From the Rolling Stones to Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, Morocco has seen its fair share of rockers making legendary visits. Perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu was inspired by the north African country’s mystique in the creation of this 2017 release.

It opens with lots of spicy pink pepper infused with the smoke of incense. A smidgen of narcissus adds to the exotic vibe.

This perfume is at its most rewarding in the drydown. There’s a creamy and sophisticated sweetness, thanks to notes of vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood, while a woody accord of guaiac and oak brings earthiness to the composition.

EX NIHILO VIPER GREEN EDP (NADÈGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

This 2018 release might not be as venomous as its name suggests, but there’s still plenty to seduce the senses in the style the brand does so well.

It opens with a fresh citrus burst of green mandarin. The slight bitterness is amplified by a big dose of galbanum. Iris is one of the listed floral notes, but I can’t detect it among all the hyper greenness.

Angelica root adds to the effect, while dashes of patchouli and vetiver bring an earthy and woody dimension to the drydown.

EX NIHILO HONORÉ DELIGHTS EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Gourmands range from the sweet and sticky-icky to the perfectly posh. Ex Nihilo HonoréDelights is definitely the latter, even though perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto used no obvious edible notes in its creation.

This 2020 release opens with fresh notes of neroli and bergamot. A large helping of oh-so-silky ambrette is blended with powdery iris and honeyed orange blossom. The drydown is luxuriously creamy, with notes of sandalwood and white musk.

I feel like I’m sitting in one of the French capital’s top patisseries when I wear this cleverly composed perfume.

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

When I first saw the name of this 2021 release, my thoughts went in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions. Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Having spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.

It opens with fresh ’n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.

A fresh rendition of vetiver and cedar closes the tight and cohesive composition with style.

EX NIHILO IRIS PORCELANA EDP (DALIA IZEM)

Just when I thought I’d smelled all the possible variations on the iris theme, along comes this 2022 release. Good to see the brand giving a relatively unknown perfumer the chance to show her olfactory skills.

According to the Ex Nihilo website, Dalia Izem was inspired by the delicacy of iris pallida (one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery) and French porcelain in the creation of this EDP. That refinement is evident from the airy opening featuring violet leaf. The iris has all the powderiness I expect but with a softly fresh sweetness.

Settling with the creaminess of musk and sandalwood, it’s a welcome addition to the iris category.

EX NIHILO OUTCAST BLUE EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

Perhaps because of the associations of blue with freshies, I was expecting this 2022 release to have that vibe. Mais, non! The EDP is a far more interesting proposition than that well-worn genre.

The intro is all about the warm spice of pepper and saffron, with the soft and soothing woodiness of cedar in support. A lily-of-the-valley note makes a soapy contribution too. It culminates with the earthiness of vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli. Oh, and did I mention the large helping of tobacco, which adds to the richness and complexity of this standout scent?

It’s available in an extrait de parfum concentration, also created by Jordi Fernández.

EX NIHILO BLUE TALISMAN EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

Tutti frutti

Fruity oudy

Froudy (apologies to Little Richard)

Where am I going with this? Please bear with me as I work this out in real time.

This 2023 release starts out fresh and fruity with notes of ginger and orange blossom, but especially pear. The woodiness – via the Givaudan captive molecules Georgywood and Akigalawood – is clean but potent.

There’s an oud-ish element to this fragrance but not of the “I’m oud and don’t you forget it!” variety, along with musk in the drydown. It was not an immediate love, but has grown on me with each wearing.

Ex Nihilo fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

March 5, 2022

Best Patchouli Fragrances: Earthy, Spicy, Sweet, Musky & More

It’s official: patchouli fragrances are having a bit of a revival and these best patchouli fragrances cover a range of styles and budgets. The last time it was so popular was in the 1960s and 1970s when hippies and boho types wore patchouli oils, some experts claim, to disguise the smell of weed.

In an interview with the UK’s Daily Mail, British perfumer Roja Dove reckons our Covid times echo the turbulence of those decades and helps explain the resurgence of patchouli. “In the 1960s and 1970s, the British and American youth were the post-World War II and Vietnam War generation. They felt politics was rotten and mother earth was where the connection mattered,” he says.

“Pogostemon cablin had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.”

According to the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website, Pogostemon cablin (its scientific name) had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.

A member of the mint family, the herb is native to southeast Asia, with Indonesia being the largest producer. In its natural form, the leaves are dried and fermented. They are then steam-distilled or CO₂ extracted to produce a highly potent and rich essential oil with all the versatile qualities we’ve come to expect from the plant – earthy, woody, sweet, spicy, smoky, musky – depending on how it’s used.

Image: Rocky Mountain Oils.

Due to the expense involved in producing the best-quality oils and environmental concerns about over-farming, synthetics (for example, Akigalawood, pictured, below) and substitutes (for example, Clearwood) are used to produce the same effect.

Image: Givaudan.

What are your best patchouli fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance in this epic best patchouli fragrances round-up.

**MUGLER A*MEN EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)**

Mugler A*Men EDT was not Jacques Huclier’s first perfume, but this love-it-or-hate-it classic was the one that made his name as a multi-talented perfumer. It was also the French designer brand’s first male fragrance, launched after the tremendous success of the pioneering gourmand Mugler Angel.

Released in 1996, there was nothing like it at the time. There have been several attempts to copy it, but none have captured the uniqueness and audacity of the original with its lashings of patchouli, caramel and coffee.

The Mugler A*Men follow-ups, mostly created by Huclier and featuring varying qualities of patchouli, are one of those rare cases in which the flankers offer a new and surprising twist on the theme. I’m usually weary of hyper-sweet fragrances but will always make an exception for Mugler A*Men.

**LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP* (ANNICK MENARDO)**

Is this 2006 release from the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula”.

There’s certainly no missing the mega dose of birch in it. The oil from the bark of this hardwood tree (birch tar oil) is renowned for its smoky leather properties and it gives this EDP an almost burnt quality. A hint of warm and spicy vanilla softens the harsh edges.

Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears. Intriguing, challenging stuff…

**ORTO PARISI BRUTUS PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

Amsterdam-based Orto Parisi is one of those love it or hate it niche fragrance brands. And this 2014 release created by Alessandro Gualtieri will either do it for you in abundance or not.

As usual, he gives no notes to guide the consumer. But that doesn’t stop me from picking up a large dose of rough-around-the-edges patchouli. Earthy, spicy and woody, it’s given a hint of freshness with citrus notes of bergamot and mandarin.

With its uncompromising boldness, it’s an acquired taste, so best give it time to work its charms.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

While this 2014 release from the Paris-based niche brand is big on the lavender, it also features a beautifully earthy take on patchouli.

Showcasing the perfumer’s love for the fougère fragrance family, it opens with lavender absolute – the Provençal variety renowned for its smooth, slightly sweet, herbal properties. It’s given sensual depth with a leather accord and woody notes of Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Kurkdjian makes the most of the latter in a smoky and musky style.

It all adds up to produce a scent that’s thoroughly elegant.

CAROLINA HERRERA NIGHTFALL PATCHOULI EDP

This fragrance has a similar-ish name to Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli (see below), but couldn’t be more different. A 2015 release from the Herrera Confidential private collection, it shows the American designer brand equally at home in haute parfumerie as it is in more commercial money-spinners.

Benzoin gives it vanilla-ish smoothness, while the patchouli is earthy and herbal in style. The extra-large helping of cinnamon is given a touch of resinous depth with cistus labdanum.

If you’re looking for sweet take on the patchouli theme, this one’s for you.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli EDP

GOOD NIGHT: Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli is probably the sweetest of these best patchouli fragrances.

YVES SAINT LAURENT TUXEDO EDP (JULIETTE KARAGUEUZOGLOU)

In 2015, the French luxury fashion brand launched its Le Vestiaire des Parfums private fragrance collection, inspired by iconic items associated with the couturier. I’d forgotten how good Tuxedo is and how like its namesake from 1966, it blends the masculine with the feminine to perfection.

The coolness of cardamom is contrasted with the warmth of black pepper to create sensual spiciness. A hint of rose, with woody accents, adds to the allure. The patchouli, smokiness on high, is paired with a musky ambergris-like accord and smooth spicy vanilla in the drydown.

Devastatingly chic and sexy, it’s one of the best YSL releases in recent years and well worth the extra expense compared to its more mainstream releases.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo EDP

SUITS YOU: Is YSL Tuxedo one of your best patchouli fragrances?

CHANEL COROMANDEL EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

From the French luxury brand’s Les Exclusifs de Chanel Collection, this 2016 release is inspired by Coco’s love for Chinese Coromandel lacquered screens, which decorated her Paris apartment. From top to bottom, it presents an enchantingly exotic take on patchouli.

The citrus opening – bitter orange and neroli – leads the way to deep and dark patchouli. It has delicious chocolate accents without entering gourmand territory. There are light floral touches (rose, orris root, jasmine) in the background. The exotic vibe is heightened with an amber accord featuring vanilla-ish benzoin and spicy frankincense.

It’s also available in a parfum concentration with added musk.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MOONLIGHT PATCHOULI EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Gosh, isn’t this 2016 addition to the French luxury jewellery brand’s top-quality Collection Extraordinaire a treat!

It opens with a deep and woody interpretation of patchouli spiced with the warmth of cacao. Bulgarian rose and iris contribute floral powderiness, while the drydown amplifies the sensual vibe with a combo of smooth leather and suede. There’s also a hint of fruitiness in the background.

From the above-mentioned cacao and fruity notes, it might sound like a gourmand, but Sonia Constant is too skilled a perfumer to go the obvious route. It’s also one of the best-value private range releases around.

**KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP* (PASCAL GAURIN)**

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

This 2017 release from The Cellars Collection is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The refined sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag.

**BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

DIOR PATCHOULI IMPÉRIAL EDP (FRANÇOIS DEMACHY)

This 2018 addition to the upmarket Maison Dior range goes the oriental route.

The barely there citrus intro – mandarin orange and bergamot – quickly gives way to the warm spice of cinnamon and coriander. It comes into its own in the drydown. Patchouli, dusty and dark, is given extra oomph with smoke, an amber accord (featuring pronounced accents of benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla) and creamy sandalwood.

Although it doesn’t quite nail its inspiration – “like entering the fragrant back room of an apothecary in Asia,” according to the brand’s website – that doesn’t stop it from being beautifully mysterious and an essential addition to the best patchouli fragrances.

CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO PATCHOULI NOIR EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

Before the global director of Dubai-based CPL Aromas launched his own company, Christian Provenzano Parfums, in 2018, he’d produced highly regarded work for brands such as Agent Provocateur, Jo Malone, Kilian, Penhaligon’s and Boadicea The Victorious.

Part of his launch collection, Patchouli Noir opens with red fruit and pink peppercorn notes. It’s sweet, sharp and spicy at the same time. Turkish rose and osmanthus develop the fruitiness of the intro with their floral intensity. True to the name of this scent, the patchouli is dark and earthy, with cistus labdanum and an amber accord bolstering its depth.

I’m not surprised it won the Best Niche Fragrance Award at the Pure Beauty Global Awards 2018. Patchouli Noir Intense, from the brand’s Universal Collection, is also worth sniffing out.

MONTBLANC EXPLORER EDP (JÓRDI FERNANDEZ, ANTOINE MAISONDIEU & OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this 2019 release. They were specifically chosen for their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernández ).

The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest. The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and the patchouli-like synthetic Akigalawood.

I won’t get bogged down in the debate on whether this scent is a Creed Aventus clone. I can tell you, though, it’s a highly versatile crowd-pleaser.

BVLGARI SPLENDIDA PATCHOULI TENTATION EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)

The luxury Italian jewellery brand can always be relied upon to deliver seemingly effortless elegance.

This 2020 addition to their Splendida range does that with a trio of layered patchouli in the expert hands of Sophie Labbé, who also created Jasmin Noir and Tubereuse Mystique for the company.

The opening is clean and pure, thanks to patchouli oil from Flores (an Indonesian island) and softly fruity peach. The powderiness of the peach evolves with orris. The iris root is perfectly paired with patchouli at this stage for an earthy effect. The drydown displays the musky side of patchouli together with white musk.

It’s officially a female fragrance, but 100% unisex, so don’t miss out on this smooth and artful beauty.

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric grabbing the attention. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP* (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

When I first saw the name of the latest release (2021) from the Paris-based niche brand, my mind started racing in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions.

Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP from the Iconoclaste Collection at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Now that I’ve spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.

It opens with fresh ‘n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the synthetic Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.