Launching a perfume company at any time takes balls. Launching a perfume company in 2020, of all years, takes balls of steel. And dollops of optimism and a strongly defined vision. All of which Anselm Skogstad of Der Duft seems to have in abundance.
The visual artist / photojournalist-turned-perfumer / director kindly sent me a bottle of Der Duft Bubble, one of the fragrances from the Germany-based company’s launch collection. If this EDP created by Alexandre Illan (Rammstein Kokain and Thameen Noorolain Taif) is anything to go by, the company is set to find its own space.
BUBBLE BOY: Alexandre Illan, creator of Der Duft Bubble. All images, except Der Deft Bubble, supplied.
Luxurious and uplifting, the bubbly stuff happens to be my favourite tipple. And it’s always intriguing to see how it’s translated olfactively. Unfortunately, it’s often given the girlie fizz treatment. No such issues with Bubble.
The EDP opens with a distinctive and slightly fruity take on Champagne. It already feels like a glass of the best. It’s infused with a liberal dose of cassis, its green sharpness balanced by a note of fruity rose. There’s also a hint of slightly spicy chamomile in the mix.
A clean combo of white musk and ambrette (the naturally derived musk) meets sandalwood in the drydown. The pear-ish characteristics of the ambrette and the creaminess of the sandalwood perfectly complement the intro and give the composition complex continuity.
I asked Anselm Skogstad about the launch of his company, his approach and working with perfumers.
“I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.”
Why did you decide to launch your own fragrance company?
I envisioned a fragrance company where the unique quality of perfumes, the style and aesthetic transcend time. The collection invites people to feel inspired by the scents and names of each perfume. I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.
I was aware of my fascination in collaborating with perfumers. It became clear that my brand would have to include both my own creations and perfumes created by selected perfumers I admire.
I strive for Der Duft to become a representation of a carefully selected collection of perfumes of outstanding quality. The concept is very clean and minimalist, which is also reflected visually in the product design.
How long was the launch in the making? And how did the Covid situation affect IT?
I was brainstorming the idea since 2018, simply calling the brand Der Duft (German for “The Scent”). Covid certainly affected the launch, as it created uncertainty and fear worldwide. Retail had to close their doors and high-end perfumes were less of a priority to people. Understandably so!
What’s your background and has perfume always played a big part in your life?
My love for perfumes started when I was a child and enjoyed smelling fragrances while admiring the fancy packaging and advertising. For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. Instead, I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist (anselmskogstad.com).
“For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist.”
FULL OF SURPRISES: Anselm Skogstad with Miguel Matos, creator of Der Duft Cinematic.
The inspiration and motivation to change my career focus also needs to be credited to a dear friend of mine, a perfume expert based in Hong Kong. I am forever thankful to have found my love for perfumes again, this immensely beautiful and powerful art form.
You’re also a perfumer and created Der Duft Monopteros and Der Duft Grasse. Where did you study perfumery?
I studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. This was a humbling experience and a substantial help in working as the director of Der Duft.
“Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction. In fact, I am thrilled if they surprise me.”
Using Der Duft Bubble as an example, tell us how you approach the creation of a fragrance with your perfumers?
Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction or guidance. In fact, I am thrilled if the perfumer surprises me. The goal is also to understand and respect the perfumers’ olfactive language and talent. Although I make the final choice which of the perfumer’s proposed creation is selected for Der Duft, the actual working process itself remains their own.
Finding a suitable name for each perfume is a distinctly exciting part of the creation process. This goes hand in hand while creating, perfecting and discovering the best new creation together with a perfumer.
Do you have any new releases planned for 2021?
Yes, I am excited about the new creation by Prin Lomros, called Act. Visit derduft.com for additional information and to subscribe to our newsletter.