Talking Fragrance (And Frissons Of Fear And Excitement)

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules

It’s good to talk about it, psychology tells us. But what about talking fragrance, as in talking at an actual event?

For someone who dreads public speaking (evidenced by my nervous state and on-off approach), I’ve surprised myself by going ahead with these things over the last five years.

Talking Fragrance - Fragrance Meets Heritage Flyer

I enjoy talking about fragrances with people, as many of us do, but actually talking to people about fragrances that’s a different matter completely. So why do I commit myself to these events when they can cause so much anxiety?

Because the annoyance with myself for not taking advantage of such an opportunity outweighs any other feelings. And truth be told, because I also get a buzz from them.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

GANICO (FEBRUARY 2020)

The talking fragrance thing all started with a collaboration with my friend Hanley (dearly departed recently) at Ganico, a beautiful organic farm 30 minutes from Johannesburg.

I spoke about trends in perfumery. There were plans to do another one and then a pandemic called Covid-19 came along and changed everything. The Great PC Crash of 2020 also took care of many pics, although I did find this one of the venue.

Ganico

GALERIES DE PARFUMS LAUNCH (JULY 2022)

For the official opening of niche retailer Galeries de Parfums in the rather posh Hyde Park Corner shopping centre, I was invited by the owner to join in the Sip & Smell festivities.

The original theme was pairing fragrances and The Macallan whisky cocktails, using perfumes from brands such as Christian Provenzano, Fragrance du Bois, Amouroud and Boadicea The Victorious.

The Macallan
IMAGE: The Macallan.

The barman went rogue, in one of several changes to theme, so by the time my turn came around on the evening, my well-prepared notes were a right mess, I tell you.

Moral of the story: sometimes you must wing it, but not visibly so.

Galeries de Parfums Sip & Smell

FRAGRANCE MEETS HERITAGE (APRIL 2024)

With a dear friend a member of the Rand Club, the grand Johannesburg institution dating back to 1887 (more about it in an upcoming post), how could I say no to the chance to speak here…

Rand Club Event Grandeur

I thought I was a clever boy by contextualising the talk with the theme Fragrance meets Heritage – “the club and fragrance have more in common than you might think” – and used brands such as Chanel and Hermès to make the point that they use their undeniable heritage in contemporary ways to remain relevant and desirable.

A highlight: meeting people I knew from IG and reconnecting with others I hadn’t seen for ages.

CHANEL BEAUTY STAFF CONFERENCE (SEPTEMBER 2024)

A big one. A really big one. So big, in fact, I once again forgot to take my own pics.

In the run-up to the Christmas shopping period, I was invited to lead a fragrance session at the Chanel Staff Conference. The audience: staff members from various retail outlets across South Africa.

The theme was “we are Chanel with the audacity to believe… with a focus on reigniting what makes the brand so special”. With Coco Chanel as inspiration, I mustered up all the audacity I could muster and shared insights on trends in the market and the luxury fragrance landscape.

Talking Fragrance - Chanel Staff Conference

My brief also included tips for the sales consultants on how to improve service to their customers. I emphasised the fact that very few companies have the diversity and quality of Chanel. Whether from the more widely available releases or the superb Les Exclusifs Collection, there’s almost always a suitable Chanel. Even in an oud-obsessed market like South Africa, customers could be directed to something with a similar profile.

My talking fragrance contribution was divided into two sessions with two separate groups on the same subject, more or less. Tricky to say the least. How do the professionals do it?

Talking Fragrance - Chanel Staff Conference

BREAKING ALL THE FRAGRANCE RULES (JULY 2025)

Back at the Rand Club. What can I say, I love this venue. I feel like I’m doing my bit for the regeneration of Johannesburg through events that involve club members and non-members.

I was feeling rebellious, so the over-arching theme: grand institutions like the Rand Club have a code of conduct for good reason. But what about fragrances? Do old rules still apply?

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Setting

At one stage only nine people had booked for the event. But after much chasing, a diverse Johannesburg crowd of more than 20 pitched up.

There were lots of questions, always a good sign, but my critical voice says:

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

WORK IN PROGRESS / TIPS TO SELF

+ There is such a thing as over-preparation, especially for this self-proclaimed control freak.

+ Even when I’m staying at a hotel, I don’t travel light. Similarly, I find myself bringing way too many fragrances to illustrate various points.

+ Now, seeing that I’m an editor, with a drive to cut down to the essentials, clearly, I need to apply a strict edit to what I’m going to talk about (less angles) and the show-and-tell aspect. That way I might feel less overwhelmed.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

WHAT I’M DOING RIGHT SO FAR

+ No death by PowerPoint.

+ Knowing my subject and doing the necessary research.

+ Not sounding like a press release.

+ It’s not all talking, God forbid. Fortunately, fragrance is very interactive.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

AND WHAT’S NEXT?

I’m mulling various options, possibly collaborations with artists, jewellers and fashion designers in my network. Ambitious stuff.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrances Rules Blur

In the meantime, some top tips from Dion Chang, a consummate pro who’s always made it look so deceptively easy:

+ Always start off with something that’s going to grab your audience’s attention. That is, dispense with the “hello, welcome, my name is…etc”.

+ When you’re speaking, let your eye line scan the room or audience. It makes the audience feel you are speaking specifically to each individual. In other words, make eye contact. Engage visually with the audience while you speak. If you find it difficult to look at a sea of faces, choose a few scattered throughout the room and keep returning your eye line to each one.

+ If you’re presenting visually, never do “death by PowerPoint”. Use arresting visuals and video if possible. Never present graphs, pie charts or bullet points. And NEVER EVER read whatever text you have on screen to your audience.

Dion Chang
IMAGE: Dion Chang.

Thanks to those who remembered to take pics, especially Andre and Dion, some of which are used here.

CHANEL NO 5 CENTENARY: THE JUICE ON AN ICON

Chanel No 5 Centenary

When a perfume turns 100 years old, you can bet it has a story to tell. And it doesn’t get more convoluted and juicier than Chanel No 5. While The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume by Tilar J Mazzeo (Harper Perennial) was published in 2010, it contains many well-researched insights as we celebrate the Chanel No 5 centenary.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

A cultural historian and wine writer, Mazzeo is the author of books such as The Widow Clicquot (HarperCollins) and Back Lane Wineries of Sonoma, Second Edition (Penguin Random House).

As Mazzeo states in the book’s preface, “Much of what is told and retold about its transformation into an international byword for luxury is the stuff of half-truths, confusion, collective fantasy and sheer invention. Sometimes, the truth that those legends obscure is more fantastic than any fiction.”

Starting with Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood in an orphanage, The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is a must-read for anyone wanting to know more about “le monstre” (the monster), as the perfume is known in the industry.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.
AU CONTRAIRE

I don’t want to give away too many of the secrets revealed and the myths debunked by Mazzeo, but for those who want a teaser here goes…

Chanel No 5 was not the first fragrance to make use of aldehydes (that distinction belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or). But it is certainly the most well-known, with its liberal use of these synthetics by Russian-born perfumer Ernest Beaux when he created Chanel’s debut scent.

Neither was it the first designer fragrance. Parisian couturier Paul Poiret got there first with Parfums de Rosine Nuit Persane in 1911.

The formula for Chanel No 5 wasn’t stolen from the laboratory of a company owned by her friend and rival François Coty.

Although the designer had a thing for the number five and named her debut fragrance after it, Chanel No 5 wasn’t officially released on May 5, 1921, the fifth day of the fifth month. It appeared quietly on the shelves of her boutiques but was hugely popular from the outset.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

In fact, because of the demand, in 1924, in return for their manufacturing, distribution and marketing expertise, Coco Chanel signed away the majority control (70%) of the perfume side of her business to the Wertheim brothers, Pierre and Paul, who owned the perfume company Bourjois.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
ICONIC SHAPE: The evolution of the design of the bottle over the decades. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

The formation of Les Parfums Chanel meant she would receive 10% of the profits. With the perfume’s considerable profitability, however, she later came to regret this business decision, which helps explain the dubious legal action against her Jewish investors during the Second World War when the Nazis occupied Paris (see interview below).

Despite all the dirty dealings and numerous law cases, the contract was renegotiated in 1947, whereby in exchange for $350 000, 10% of the profits and 2% of the perfume sales worldwide, she would stop using the number five in any of her marketing.

“Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel.”

Later, in the 1950s, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel in Paris). But the Wertheimer family would own the rights to the fragrance and fashion businesses. That agreement continues to this day, with Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, Pierre’s grandchildren, running the luxury empire.

Although her partners missed several marketing tricks in the 20s, they showed their business acumen during the war. From their new base in the United States, after escaping from France in 1940, they sent former Guerlain president H. Gregory Thomas on a covert mission to Grasse, France, to source the raw materials needed to produce Chanel No 5. He returned with hundreds of kilos of jasmine and rose concrete.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

INTERVIEW WITH TILAR J MAZZEO

What prompted you to write the book?

I came to the book from the perspective of a wine writer, wondering about the relationship between perfume and wine: both aromatic volatiles in alcohol. What made a great perfume and was it similar to a great wine?

Did you have any preconceptions before you started your research?

The other question of the book for me was: is Chanel No 5 really a great perfume or is it great marketing? I began assuming marketing would be a larger part of the equation.

What were you most surprised to find out in your research?

How disastrous the marketing was in the beginning for this fragrance. For example, they decided to launch Chanel No 5 along with a whole series of other numbered fragrances (Chanel No 2, Chanel No 3). And the ads had all of them in the same bottles. It would have sunk any other fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
PERFUME POSE: Gabrielle Chanel in a campaign for Chanel No 5, photographed by François Kollar for Harper’s Bazaar, USA, in 1937, in her Ritz Hotel apartment. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.
How much access did the company give you? And what was their response when the book was published?

I did have access to historical documents at Chanel and the jasmine and rose plantations in Grasse. The perfumers at Chanel were also amazingly generous with their time.

I’m not sure about the maison’s view. I think we agreed about the fragrance. In the beginning we probably saw differently Coco Chanel’s World War Two experience, but I suspect we are not really very far apart on that.

Chanel and her German boyfriend [officer Hans Günther von Dincklage] during the war both claimed they were working as double agents for the British with a man named Canaris, and the historical evidence suggests this is probably true.

“The ‘Aryanization’ lawsuit would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.”

I don’t think Chanel was a Nazi spy. She did definitely have a German boyfriend. She did engage during World War Two in an “Aryanization” lawsuit [unsuccessfully suing for ownership of the company, as it had been abandoned], which would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.

With Chanel No 5 celebrating its centenary this year, there’s no doubt, more than ever, it’s more than a perfume, it’s a cultural icon. Would you be able to highlight the most important factor that contributed to that status? 

Every perfumer I’ve ever spoken with, including many of Chanel’s competitors, all say one thing: as a work of modernist art expressed in fragrance, Chanel No 5 is a masterpiece. It does something amazing as a scent by balancing its aldehydes with deep florals. There is something of the tightrope act in the fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
CHARACTER: Cartoonist Sem paid tribute to the success of Chanel No 5 in 1921.
The story of Chanel No 5 is also the story of Coco Chanel. To describe her as complex would be an understatement… 

Indeed. She starts out life as an orphan in a convent, then moves onto being a cabaret showgirl (from there the “Coco” nickname) and the mistress of a series of wealthy men, becomes a celebrated designer very quickly, launches a popular fragrance but almost immediately gives rights over to another company, and spends the next few decades suing her (Jewish) business partners and dating a German during the occupation of Paris.

Your book doesn’t gloss over the more controversial aspects of Coco Chanel’s attempts to regain control of the fragrance business especially during the Nazi occupation of France. Despite this, how has her mystique been maintained?

History is full of men who behaved badly and remained celebrated as artists and geniuses. Picasso, to take a contemporary of Chanel, was a complete cad. Chanel was both an artist and a genius in her metier and as with Picasso, one must divorce her personal character from her art. Her art, both in fashion and fragrance, is breath-taking.

Your book was published in 2010, 11 years before the centenary. What, if anything, would you add to it now?

The fragrance history in the book remains timely and current. The debate about Chanel and the Second World War has intensified since publication in 2010, and I would add to the book now a more expansive context. I am deeply critical of Chanel’s actions during the war in terms of her “Aryanization” legal actions.

However, I don’t think the facts support some of the arguments that were made after my book was published, which castigate her “horizontal collaboration.” I gave that expanded context in the book I wrote after the one on Chanel, which was about the Ritz Hotel in Paris during the occupation [The Hotel on Place Vendôme (HarperCollins)].

Your personal thoughts on Chanel No 5 as a perfume?

I am blind as a bat and cannot carry a tune, but I am blessed or cursed, depending on the circumstances, with an extremely fine nose. It is hard for anyone with that not to admire Chanel No 5 and to love scents. Chanel No 5 is like admiring or not admiring a 1953 Petrus (though with a very different aromatic profile). But some things are qualitatively brilliant. Chanel No 5 and Shalimar are my go-to classic fragrances. Once you appreciate the technical and artistic genius of those perfumes, it’s difficult not to want to spend time with them.

The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume is available to buy here.