When temperatures recently hit the upper twenties and it was only early spring, I knew, to quote, the lyrics of the 1980s Bananarama hit, “It’s a cruel, (cruel) cruel summer”, I’d better gather some of my favourite citrus fragrances. ASAP.
Living on the southern tip of Africa, in Johannesburg, is problematic in summer. My level of comfort is 25°C max. Anything over that and I start to wilt. Rapidly.
All I want is to feel refreshed and elegant, as opposed to too hot and very bothered. That’s not too demanding, is it?
This selection of citrus fragrances is guaranteed to put the cool into old school. You’re allowed to groan…
Any citrus favourites of yours? And do you dread summer like I do?
MAURER & WIRTZ 4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)
There aren’t many fragrances that have the pedigree of 4711 Original Eau de Cologne (you can also call it “the poor man’s Tom Ford Neroli Portofino”). Launched in 1792 and created by Wilhelm Muelhens, apparently its formula hasn’t changed 230+ years later.
What also hasn’t changed over the decades (no, I haven’t been around as long) is the effect this fragrant tonic has on my mood.
The intro is all about uplifting citrus notes, including orange, lemon and bergamot, with basil, rosemary and lavender adding aromatics to the freshness. A big dose of neroli brings the best kind of feel-good sunshine whenever I douse myself in the stuff.
The splash-on format makes me feel rather chic, too.
ROCHAS EAU DE ROCHAS HOMME EDT (NICOLAS MAMOUNAS)
I don’t normally wear a fragrance for its opening, but the one for Eau de Rochas Homme is so good at helping lift the mood and focus the thoughts, I do so. Repeatedly.
The intro to this 1993 classic is all citrus-green-soapy freshness, with lemon, lime, lemon verbena, bergamot and aldehydes in the mix. A floral bouquet follows and freesia, in particular, keeps the freshness coming. Soft touches of vetiver, oakmoss and cedar feature in the woody drydown.
This creation is as light as an Amalfi breeze, but no problemo pressing repeat.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE
Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.
Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.
It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor. I’m not sure I’d go that far, but it’s certainly one of the classiest citrus fragrances around.
DUNHILL ICON EDP (CARLOS BENAÏM)
When Dunhill Icon was launched in 2015, it was very much part of the brand’s sophisticated gentleman approach and admirably so.
The opening features the freshness of neroli, bergamot and petitgrain, all citrus greenery. It develops in complexity with an interplay between the spice of black pepper and cardamom and the clean aromatics of lavender. The drydown features crisp vetiver and a hint of earthy oakmoss.
There’s something stylishly soapy and sparkling about this EDP. It feels modern yet timeless at the same time.
And then there’s the award-winning bottle produced by South African industrial designer Mark Eisen. The metal and glass combo is a nod to the house’s motoring heritage. From the fragrance to the packaging, it gets everything right.
JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)
The John Varvatos Pure range can always be relied upon to deliver a quality citrus hit, but this 2017 release from the American designer brand must be my favourite. Inspired by the lush hills of Xalapa, Mexico, with its coffee and citrus groves, it gets the balance between sweet and sour just right.
The opening belongs to a medley of citrus notes: mandarin orange, lemon and bergamot. Clementine stands out with its sweet juiciness. Notes of thyme and marjoram give it a subtle herbal aspect. The absolutely green petitgrain is partnered with zingy ginger for fabulously fresh spiciness. The drydown maintains the clean vibe with a combo of musk and wood notes.
I love the bottle too, with its holiday vibe.
