IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.
Dora Baghriche may have learned the art of diplomacy since her fragrance debut in 2011, Versace Vanitas EDT. But she remains refreshingly honest about her work as a perfumer. From our communications, I pick up she’s feeling overwhelmed. Perfectly understandable with all the pressures and demands of her profession.
IMAGE: Versace.
She comes across as a sensitive soul. And looking at her body of work so far (a selection below), there’s an impressive variety across several genres:
+ Versace Vanitas EDT (2011)
+ Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011)
+ L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013)
+ Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice EDT (2014)
+ Gloria Vanderbilt Minuit à New York EDP (2015)
+ Juicy Couture I Am Juicy Couture EDP (2015)
+ Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP (2016)
+ Glossier You EDP (2017)
+ Chopard Happy Chopard Bigaradia EDP (2018)
+ Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Rose & Rose EDP (2019)
+ Lionel Richie Hello EDT (2019)
+ Ariana Grande R.E.M. EDP (2020)
+ Kenzo Flower Poppy Bouquet EDP (2020)
+ Armani Privé Gardénia Antigua EDT (2020)
+ Carolina Herrera 212 Heroes Forever Young EDP (2022)
+ Paco Rabanne Fame EDP (2022)
+ Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP (2023)
+ Coty Infiniment Or de Moi Parfum (2024)
Initially, Dora Baghriche had her eye on a career in journalism but even as a perfumer, she manages to bring elements of that into her work. “Journalism was a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see,” she says.
IMAGES OF DORA BAGHRICHE: dsm-firmenich.
Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. What does that mean for your career?
Thank you! It always feels good when your work and commitment are recognised by your company. It’s an important step in a career.
Journalism was your first career choice before you enrolled at ISIPCA. Are you able to apply any journalistic principles to your work as a perfumer?
Yes, I wanted to be a reporter, to travel and witness the world. I have such an endless admiration for these men and women who courageously try to inform us about conflicts, major events, good or bad. I wanted to be a voice and an eye for what and who is invisible, or far, or ignored. This comes from my thirst for justice and freedom since my youngest age.
IMAGE: Glossier.
Journalism was also a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. Creating fragrances allows me to express these values in a different form. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see…
How do you remember your fine fragrance debut?
My debut in perfumery is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers. Being a young perfumer requires energy, resilience, patience and fearlessness.
I had all these qualities, but I was also too direct, with no filter. I have learned a bit of useful diplomacy.
“My debut is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers.” – Dora Baghriche
IMAGE: Cacharel.
Do you approach perfumery as a technical or intuitive endeavour?
I work with my intuition – it is my most precious ally. Technique comes afterwards to make this intuition something “presentable”.
Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011) is an early creation of yours. In what way does it represent you as a perfumer?
Still Life is a creation around yuzu and pepper – among my favourite tastes and sensations. These ingredients are the symbol of high energy, that’s probably why they are often the stars of festive cocktails. I still love Still Life. This fragrance is like an endless party.
IMAGE: Olfactive Studio.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013) is a different type of fig fragrance. How did you approach its creation?
It’s my vision of the sweet breath of the south of the Mediterranean. It’s about sage. Sage also means “savage”, the same root. And for me, the region of Provence means the wild, the freedom and also the softness. This sage is full of softness, surrounded by jasmine marmalade and fig.
You’re part of the team behind Paco Rabanne Fame. These high-profile projects must come with a lot of pressure. How do you deal with those stresses?
Indeed, pressure is part of my world. Winning a big project is always a race you need to be well prepared for – it is psychologically and physically overwhelming. Dealing with competition, with doubts, with others’ tastes and personalities, even within your own team, the stress can be high.
“It’s important to stay open to others. Then creation can find peace again.” – Dora Baghriche
But I’ve learned to domesticate pressure. And when it’s becoming too hard to take a step back. It’s important to stay positive, open to others, rely on the people you trust. Then anything can be smoother, and creation can find peace again.
You’ve created several fragrances for Chopard. Has this entailed meeting the brand’s artistic director, Caroline Scheufele?
I work a lot with Chopard and I love this house. I met Caroline Scheufele a few years ago and had both a personal and artistic crush for her and for her work. She is audacious, sensitive, a beautiful soul. She loves perfumes among other arts.
IMAGE: Chopard.
We shared how we could bring her perfume collection to the next level and to create fragrances that are the most faithful to the spirit of the house: quality, creativity and a bit of the unexpected.
Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP is a 2023 co-creation of yours with Daphné Bugey. Musk is an integral part of the brand’s fragrance identity. What kind of musk/s did you use in its creation?
All of Me is the encounter of geranium and an incredible heart of musk. We worked with the latest generation of musks offered by dsm-firmenich’s palette. Our company is called “the house of musks”. We are pioneers in the research for new musks with different tonalities, different facets.
For All of Me, we worked with six different musks – all 100% biodegradable and with interesting and complementary facets. While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet, for example. That’s why the result of this musky signature is not flat, but multi-dimensional, like Mr Narciso Rodriguez’s vision of women.
“While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet.” – Dora Baghriche
When you’re not working, what would we find you doing?
When I’m not working, I do many things. Reading first. I am what we call a heavy reader – I can read up to three books a week. I used to practise Japanese archery but not anymore, now I am taking piano lessons again because I miss music.
IMAGE: Giorgio Armani.
What I love the most is to discover new worlds, new fields. I might not have time to become an expert in everything, but I love to dive into a new discipline and understand a little bit of its meaning, its power, its benefits.