The growth of private collections continues to gather momentum. Launched in 2019 with relatively little publicity, Dunhill Signature epitomises what these ranges are all about. Superior ingredients, an emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, and limited distribution. These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery.
However, Dunhill brings its own angle to the trend (come to think of it, it’s more of a standard now than a trend) – a focus on travel and adventure, while balancing tradition and modernity. This should come as no surprise. After all, the British luxury goods brand was in the automobiles accessories biz in one of its various incarnations in the 20th century.
“These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery. “
The launch collection (presumably more will be added) consists of four different fragrances. They were created by a mix of established and up-and-coming perfumers. I’ve listed the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
PERFUME TALENT: The Dunhill Signature fragrances were created by, clockwise from top left, Alexandra Monet, Carlos Benaïm, Gino Percontino and Pierre Negrin.
INDIAN SANDALWOOD EDP (CARLOS BENAIM)
An award-winning perfume legend, Benaim has a succession of standout creations to his name. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Eternity For Men EDT, Frédéric Malle Music For A While EDP and Dunhill Icon EDP. His expertise is clearly evident in this scent.
It opens with the fresh and sunny citrus hues of bergamot and continues to warm up, in an earthy way, with the addition of green tree and patchouli notes. Sandalwood comes through seamlessly in the drydown. Rich, without being overpowering, it has a creamy, almost coconut-y vibe.
Verdict: Woody and warm, it evokes an Indian summer in semi-tropical style.
MOROCCAN AMBER EDP (GINO PERCONTINO)
I’m not familiar with Percontino’s creations for brands such as Anthropologie, Banana Republic, Phlur and Hollister, among others. But judging by the sterling job he’s done with Moroccan Amber, he’s a perfumer to watch in the future.
The intro is all spice, featuring big wafts of sweet cardamom. I also get teeny-weeny hints of ginger and coriander, although they are not officially listed notes. The spice keeps coming with saffron, which has soft leather undertones. The base of amber is typically warm and cosy, but Percontino keeps the sweetness in check with a rugged earthiness.
Verdict: An oriental that gets the balance between sweet and spicy just right.
BRITISH LEATHER EDP (PIERRE NEGRIN)
With creation such as Amouage Interlude Man EDP, Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP and Ralph Lauren Polo Black EDT, Negrin needs no introduction. The French perfumer was the perfect choice to give Dunhill’s leather heritage a contemporary spin.
The inherent bitterness of bergamot is amplified at the beginning of this fragrance. Is that a hint of cardamom in the background? The violet leaf that follows pushes it in a green direction. This bitter green aspect is brought to the fore by an infusion of mate tea, which lays the foundation for the leather accord in the drydown. It’s a lived-in leather that’s cooler in character than its stable mates.
Verdict: A distinctive leather that’s full of character and creases.
ARABIAN DESERT EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)
No private fragrance collection is complete without an oud, and Arabian Desert was placed in the capable hands of Monet. She is known for her accomplished work for brands such as Berdoues, The Different Company and Kenzo.
This EDP displays its charms from the start. Rosy pink peppercorns set the oriental mood, with citrus bergamot and spicy saffron in support. The heart features floral notes of rose and jasmine, which are treated most delicately. Rose and oud is a popular combo, and Monet gives it plenty of sensual smoke in the drydown.
Verdict: A sweetish, but not too sweet, take on oud that’s smoothly seductive.
There’s a deceptive simplicity to these Dunhill Signature fragrances. Unlike its more mass market fragrances, their streamlined structure allows individual ingredients to breathe more.
The bottles also deserve a mention. Taking their cue from the brand’s automotive heritage, they take the solid design of the Icon collection to new levels of modern elegance with their structures of transparent glass and metal tops.
For a private fragrance collection, these EDPs are also very reasonably priced at R2 299 for 100ml.
The Dunhill Signature collection is available in South Africa at Edgars, Truworths and Foschini stores.
