CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT Archives

April 9, 2022

Best Tea Fragrances: A Cuppa Olfactory Inspiration

Tea is not just one of my favourite beverages; it’s also one of my favourite fragrance genres. Before I take you through my best tea fragrances selection, a bit of background…

The category is a relatively new one and originated with Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Commissioned to make the Bvlgari stores smell nice, according to Chandler Burr’s fascinating book The Perfect Scent, its unexpected success (customers were snapping it up at $350 a bottle) led to it being launched as a more commercial endeavour in 1992.

Forty years later, you’ll find numerous renditions on the best tea fragrances theme. From black and white to green and red, all offer an aromatic interpretation of the nuances of the different leaves used to produce tea.

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best tea fragrances?

BVLGARI EAU PARFUMÉE AU THÉ VERT EAU DE COLOGNE (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

The Italian luxury jewellery company made a fine debut, in 1992, with Eau Parfumée (now known as Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert), a celebration of Japanese green tea.

It starts out with the fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin orange. They mingle with the spices and herbs of cardamom, nutmeg and clary sage to help create a green tea accord that’s aromatic and uplifting. Hints of florals – jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose – add to the refreshing vibe.

This is a softie, so “beast moders”, please move on. Anyone else will appreciate the artistry of this trend-setter that paved the way for other scents such as Elizabeth Arden Green Tea and Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Also look out for the brand’s other takes on the tea theme: Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc (white Himalayan tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu (oolong tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir (black tea) and Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge (rooibos).

Best Tea Fragrances - Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert EDC

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

CREED SILVER MOUNTAIN WATER EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Creed Aventus EDP may get all the hype, but this 1995 release from the Paris-based niche brand gets my vote for its versatility. Inspired by perfumer Olivier Creed’s love for skiing in the Swiss Alps, it’s quality stuff with a hefty price tag. Inspiration often doesn’t translate into reality, but this fragrance captures it so well, from the bottle to the juice.

The opening is fresh, thanks to citrus notes of bergamot, neroli and mandarin. Things really get interesting when the heart notes of green tea and blackcurrant add a green element to the fresh effect. The drydown is all sandalwood and musk.

A crisp, clean and chic affair.

IMAGE: Creed.

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA EDT (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea celebrated its 23rd birthday last year. It’s easy to understand why this 1999 creation is still in production.

The opening is all zingy freshness, with citrus notes of lemon, orange zest and bergamot in perfect play. The freshness continues through to the heart of green tea and mint. Notes of jasmine and fennel bring light floral and spiciness to this EDT, which settles on a musky base.

It’s such an uplifting scent. And the great price just adds to the cheap thrills factor.

The brand regularly releases variations on the Green Tea theme – fig, mimosa and sakura blossom have been some of my favourites so far.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this release from the pioneering French niche brand enough. Twenty-two years after its release, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

WARMTH: L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two is one of my favourites in this best tea fragrances selection.

**KILIAN BAMBOO HARMONY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)**

I tend to associate Kilian fragrances with hedonism, in the best sense of the word. So Kilian Bamboo Harmony is something of a surprising change in tone.

From the Paris-based niche brand’s The Fresh Collection, this 2012 release is every bit as peaceful as it sounds and lives up to its inspiration, “a sip of pure white tea in a bamboo forest”, in style.

The opening is all about citrus freshness, with bergamot and bigarade at the fore. Calice Becker infuses the composition with relaxing white tea leaves, while mimosa enhances the green mood. The moss note in the drydown maintains the tranquillity.

A great bedtime choice when you need a calming mist.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX, CAROLINE SABAS & GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

This release from the American beauty brand was one of my best-loved fragrances from 2017.

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening is a fresh ’n breezy blend of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) touches. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, this soft but persistent scent is a fantastic cheapie, in the style Elizabeth Arden does brilliantly.

The additions to the range – Vanilla Orchid, Wild Rose, Ginger Lily and Mandarin Blossom – also warrant your attention.

LE LABO THÉ **29 EDP* (FRANK VOELKL)**

This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche house is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

**VILHELM PARFUMERIE DEAR POLLY EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

Launched in 2015, Dear Polly was one of the NYC-based niche house’s debut releases and set the tone of quality for other standout releases such as Mango Skin, Basilico & Fellini and A Lilac A Day.

Candied apple meets crisp bergamot in the opening, followed by a big dose of black tea. While some might prefer their tea unsweetened and green, the sweet take on tea works rather nicely, I’m back for more.

Like any worthwhile composition, Dear Polly keeps on giving in the drydown, with oakmoss, black amber and musk creating an irresistibly cosy and sensual warmth.

NISHANE WŪLÓNG CHÁ EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (JORGE LEE)

Cup of tea, dear? Yes please, if it’s as good as this one. This 2015 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Miniature Art Collection is fantastically refreshing from start to finish.

It gets going with the citrus-green hues of bergamot, supported by lesser notes of delicately sweetened orange and mandarin. There’s also some aromatic lemon-y freshness courtesy of litsea cubeba, the shrub native to east Asia. The oolong tea, softly fruity and green, is enhanced by honeyed fig and clean white musk in the drydown.

For a freshie, this one lasts quite a long time, but then it’s an extrait de parfum.

BERDOUES ASSAM OF INDIA EDP (JENNIFER RILEY)

The travel-inspired Collection Grands Crus from the fourth-generation, family-owned, Grasse-based Berdoues brand must be one of the most likeable ranges around. This 2015 release epitomises that appeal.

It opens with the crisp and bright citrus hues of citron from Menton (France). The black tea note evokes the famous variety that’s indigenous to Assam (India), with its full-bodied characteristics. A note of creamy Mysore (India) sandalwood completes the cosmopolitan cuppa.

There’s nothing complicated about this composition, yet it delivers plenty of seemingly effortless elegant comfort. Who could ask for more?

HERMÈS EAU DE CITRON NOIR EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Hermès’ first entry in this best tea fragrances round-up comes from the French luxury brand’s superb Cologne Collection.

The opening of this 2018 release is all about the sharp and invigorating citrus freshness of lemon and citron. It transitions with the appearance of an unusual accord, black lime – inspired by the Middle Eastern culinary tradition of sun-drying limes until they are dehydrated. Blended with black tea, it’s sour, smoky and musky. The smoky vibe is maintained in the drydown featuring guaiac wood.

A classic and timeless choice.

MAISON CRIVELLI BOIS DATCHAÏ EDP* (DOROTHÉE PIOT)

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release from the Paris-based niche brand that’s fast becoming one of my firm favourites.

The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness.

The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli, while papyrus and guaiac wood notes provide a subtle leather undertow.

HERMÈS L’OMBRE DES MERVEILLES EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Even when it’s a flanker, a Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And this 2020 release is a particularly good addition to the range which was originally launched in 2004 with Hermès Eau des Merveilles.

It features just three listed notes: black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and almost aniseed-y. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes L'Ombre des Merveilles EDP

CONTRASTS: Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles is one of my more recent best tea fragrances.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The 2020 addition to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

*All these best tea fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

November 20, 2021

Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25^th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE **COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)**

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

**DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE**)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

**PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

**ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)**

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

July 15, 2021

Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Two things to note:

If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Peta–certified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.

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