Whether for their sensual or comforting properties, I can’t get enough of powdery perfumes, so had to stop myself from adding more to this best powdery fragrances post.
The powdery genre covers a lot of territory. Of course, there isn’t any powder in these fragrances, but they showcase notes or accords with this sensation to varying effect, from the grandma-ish (nothing wrong with a bit of nostalgia) to thoroughly modern.
Some notes are powderier than others. On the floral side, notes of iris / orris, violet, rose and mimosa feature prominently. Musks, vanillas and amber accords can also have a powdery feel. As does the fruity note of peach.
Do you have any best powdery fragrances?
Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)
Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release from the pioneering French niche brand will tell you all you need to know.
The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre, is a standard-setter in the amber category. Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.
The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth. Old-school glamour at its very best.
CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HER FEMININE EDITION EDP*
CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HIM MASCULINE EDITION EDP*
My relationship with Clive Christian perfumes so far has been a turbulent one, and so it continues with this duo from 2001.
* Clive Christian No 1 Feminine Edition: My favourite of the two. A lush arrangement of fruits (plum, peach) and florals (jasmine, rose) on a creamy sandalwood base, with powder to spare. You should feel like a million bucks wearing it. At the price, you would need a million bucks to keep on wearing it.
* Clive Christian No 1 Masculine Edition EDP: Hints of spice and citrus and big florals (iris, rose) lead the way to a powdery and musky drydown, with sandalwood completing the rich oriental. Undeniably sophisticated and quality stuff, but will you want so much more for the price?
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE* (PIERRE BOURDON)
It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche fragrance house’s impeccable credentials.
This Pierre Bourdon creation opens with the floral luxuriance of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.
Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!
LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)
Released in 2006 as part of the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.
In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with support from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).
It softens as it progresses towards an almost baby powder feel sweetened with vanilla and tonka bean (I wish all babies smelled this good). The powderiness keeps on coming with warm musk in the drydown.
LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)
NYC-based niche house Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take to one of my favourite florals.
It opens with the brief sunny spiciness of lime, ginger and cardamom. Iris is often cool and aloof, but Voelkl surrounds it with yet more warmth of the ylang-ylang kind. There’s powder aplenty with violet in support.
The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).
NASOMATTO SILVER MUSK EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)
This 2007 release from the Amsterdam-based niche brand is notable for three main reasons:
1) It presents a metallic spin on the musk theme. Starting out clean and clinical, it evolves into something comforting and powdery, while maintaining the initial freshness.
2) For Alessandro Gualtieri (creator of never-ending perfumes such as Nasomatto Black Afgano and Orto Parisi Terroni), it’s a quite subtle quiet skin scent (I challenge you to say that quickly after a few beers). Good to see the maverick perfumer in a different mode.
3) It’s not for everyone. Those who “get” it will love it. Anyone else will think, “WTF! How could this be included in a best powdery fragrances post!” That’s a recommendation, by the way.
IMAGE: Nasomatto.
CREED LOVE IN BLACK EDP* (OLIVIER CREED & ERWIN CREED)
Apparently inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, this 2008 release opens with the floral powder of violet. Its freshness is amplified and given body with a note of Virginia cedar.
There’s additional powder from Florentine iris and white musk. Their cool elegance is spiced with cloves, without dominating the composition. The drydown features a combo of blackcurrant and rose, all fruity tartness.
Devastatingly chic, this EDP has an air of impenetrability about it. Think of it as a piece of perfume armour when you want to feel as inscrutable as the woman who inspired it.
BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP*
The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release from the Swedish niche brand.
The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.
A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.
PARFUMS DE MARLY GALLOWAY EDP*
As shown by this 2014 release, the Paris-based niche brand does some of the best freshies in the biz.
The opening is all about the contrast between a burst of sparkling citruses and the warm spice of black pepper. They lead the way to a duo of sweet-ish florals: powdery iris and soapy orange blossom. A blast of white musk in the drydown keeps its clean and powdery, with support from an amber accord and sandalwood.
For a freshie, it lasts forever and a day. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the house.
PARFUMS DE MARLY ATHALIA EDP*
Apart from the Delina range, the female releases from the Paris-based niche brand don’t get as much attention as they should when compared to their more masculine siblings.
Delicately smoky incense meets the tart freshness of bitter orange in the opening of this 2016 release. Iris, the powdery and earthy variety, then gets support from vibrant orange blossom and the musky synthetic Cashmeran. White musk, vanilla and an amber accord prolong the powderiness in the drydown.
The result is olfactory opulence, just like its black bottle with gold accents, without being overbearing and flashy.
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO EDP POUDRÉE (AURÉLIEN GUICHARD)
Launched in 2016, Poudrée is the second addition to the Narciso range and, as its name suggests, is all about sensual powderiness.
There’s plenty of that in the opening where Bulgarian rose mingles with fresh jasmine. It’s stylishly sweet and thoroughly addictive. All Narciso Rodriguez scents riff on musk and this one extends the powdery theme in a clean way, without ever being clinical. After all that airiness, it’s grounded in a woody drydown of cedars (black and white) and vetiver.
Bravo to perfumer Aurélien Guichard for another stellar creation!
MUSK THEME: Is Narciso EDP Poudrée one of your best powdery fragrances?
INITIO PSYCHEDELIC LOVE EDP*
There’s no shortage of powdery fragrances from the French niche brand – Rehab, Magnetic Blend 7, Musk Therapy – but this 2017 release from The Carnals Collection must be one of my favourites.
The opening features the rich fruity tones of ylang-ylang, with a smidgen of fresh bergamot in the background. The powder comes through in the form of heliotropin (almonds and vanilla ahoy!), hedione (intense jasmine) and rose (dusty deluxe). Mmm…
The sweet spice of myrrh and creamy sandalwood completes this semi-gourmand with full-on intentions.
MAISON CRIVELLI IRIS MALIKHÂN EDP* (MARC ZINI)
A 2020 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house, it delivers on its title note with aplomb.
The notes of mimosa and lentisque set the powdery and creamy tone respectively, while galbanum brings a hint of greenery to the composition. The combo of orris and vanilla, all silky butteriness, is amplified by a slightly animalic leather accord. The amber treatment keeps it sweet in a sophisticated way.
With gourmand-ish qualities, but not in an obvious way, it’s easy to understand why this luxurious EDP is one of the brand’s top sellers and its inclusion in this best powdery fragrances line-up.
DIPTYQUE ORPHÉON EDP*
Paying homage to the company’s heritage for its 60th anniversary, this 2021 release takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.
It opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.
With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. But perhaps I’m being too literal. It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s grown on me.
GUERLAIN INSOLENCE EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL & SYLVAINE DELACOURTE)
Originally released as an EDT in 2006 and now part of the revered French brand’s Les Légendaires Collection, this 2021 release is way more approachable and wearable than its name suggests.
There’s a mega dose of violet in the opening. The powderiness is fresh, airy and sweet. There’s more floral support from orange blossom, while berries add a rich fruity dimension. Iris adds to the powderiness in a dry and earthy way, with softly creamy vanilla and sandalwood in the drydown.
It doesn’t get prettier than this fruity-floral that’s infused with just the right amount of refined sweetness.
*All these best powdery fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics.
