BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP Archives

February 26, 2022February 26, 2022

Best Byredo Fragrances: 12 Releases From The Swedish Niche Brand To Get Your Nose On

A rhetorical question before I get to my best Byredo fragrances selection: is there a cooler perfume brand founder than Ben Gorham (pictured, below)? The fine arts graduate and professional basketball player-turned-entrepreneur launched his fragrance company in Stockholm, Sweden, in 2006.

Image: Byredo.

Within a few years, Byredo secured its position as a leading niche house with straightforward yet distinctive compositions that range from the crowd-pleasing to the more daringly unusual.

Some recent releases haven’t hit the heights of earlier ones, but there’s still no shortage of best Byredo fragrances.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Byredo fragrances?

BYREDO GYPSY WATER EDP

All successful niche brands make their name with specific releases. This 2008 EDP put Byredo firmly on the fragrance map.

A celebration of Romany culture in a most romantic way, the olfactory homage begins in delicately fresh style, with notes of juniper berries, bergamot and lemon capturing the imagination. Seductive mystery wafts throughout in the form of smoky incense and aromatic pine needle notes. And then it’s time for a terrific trio of vanilla, amber and sandalwood to lay on the creaminess.

No surprises, it’s been a best-seller since its launch and remains the perfect intro to the house.

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP

This 2009 release epitomises the brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of aldehydes in the opening. Most well known for its use in Chanel No 5, this synthetic gives this EDP a fresh, soapy vibe. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this 2009 release. It’s probably my favourite in this best Byredo fragrances round-up.

The tone is set from the opening, with its mix of citrus freshness (lemon, bergamot, neroli). Notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality, with soft florals in the background. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk and Moroccan cedarwood in the drydown.

It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances on the market and holds the attention from start to finish.

BYREDO LA TULIPE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Who says tulips aren’t fragrant? While most varieties are indeed odourless, this 2010 release showcases the floral in spectacularly scented style.

The intro of cyclamen, freesia and rhubarb notes creates a fresh spring-like mood. The rendition of tulip builds on that freshness in a lush green, slightly spicy style. It’s impressively realistic and not sweet in the least. The vetiver in the drydown maintains the green freshness, while blonde woods (the synthetic Cashmeran) brings smooth muskiness.

One of the best in the genre, it stands out for all the right reasons.

BYREDO OUD IMMORTEL EDP

Oud is regarded as one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and this 2010 release does a fine job of approximating its appeal through skilful use of ingredients.

The intro sees the resinous spice of cardamom infused with the smoke of incense. The combination of richly floral Brazilian rosewood, smoky papyrus and earthy patchouli notes come together to create a remarkable oud-like result. Notes of oakmoss and tobacco maintain the illusion in the drydown.

The brand’s Accord Oud is also recommended, if you’re looking for a fruitier, leathery take on the theme.

BYREDO BLACK SAFFRON EDP

Inspired by Ben Gorham’s heritage (his mother is Indian) and the importance of saffron in Hinduism, this 2012 release is not as abstinent as it sounds.

The leathery qualities of spicy saffron are played up in the intro, with a fresh hint of juniper berries and grapefruit in the background. A gently animalic leather accord is sweetened with a note of fruity raspberry and powdery violet, while Cashmeran brings a warm musky vibe to the composition.

If you’re in the market for a sophisticated leather fragrance, Byredo Saffron deserves a place in your collection.

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP

Taking its cue from the nickname given by soldiers to the courageous, life-saving nurses during the First World War, this 2015 release is the one for you if you’re looking for a gentle intro to a rose fragrance.

It opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by the rosy spiciness of pink peppercorns. The centrepiece is softly enveloping Turkish rose absolute, with the fruity-floral hues of raspberry blossom in the background.

Finished with an amber accord and the aromatic woodiness of papyrus, it’s a warm and agreeable fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

BYREDO BIBLIOTHÈQUE EDP

As its name suggests, this 2017 release (originally the brand’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity mode with sweet (but not too sweet) notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring peony. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect.

A leather accord completes the EDP, with notes of patchouli and vetiver adding to the intimate feel of being immersed in a world of old books.

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd-friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

BYREDO SLOW DANCE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

I don’t always buy into the story of a fragrance, but the one for this 2019 release works a charm – “a rites-of-passage moment… high school clichés mingle…” – both in its inspiration and execution.

Jérôme Epinette conjures a suitably sweet and sticky experience with notes of opoponax, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli notes featuring prominently in the warm, almost candyfloss-y ambience.

I can almost feel the teachers scanning the young couples for any unacceptable behaviour as George Michael’s Careless Whisper creates a frisson among the young’uns.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron.

A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental atmosphere.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

All of these best Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

January 18, 2021

Africa-Inspired Fragrances: Fertile Ground For The Imagination

While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.

“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”

The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.

With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.

There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.

Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?

**ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)**

I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.

The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.

Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.

RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).

This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.

BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)

Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.

**L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)**

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!

**BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)**

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.

The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.

**MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)**

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.

Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.

4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.

The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.

*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

October 3, 2019May 14, 2020

Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk.

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves.

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Tag: BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP