It’s been 10 years since Bulgari Man in Black EDP became a huge hit for the Italian luxury jewellery brand. Even inveterate niche snobs succumbed to its undeniable allure. Will the recently launched Bulgari Man in Black Parfum be equally popular?
PERFUMER
Alberto Morillas is no stranger to the Bulgari Man franchise. In fact, since its inception in 2010, he has created all the fragrances in the range. So no surprise to see the maestro behind Bulgari Man in Black Parfum.
Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).
IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.
If you want to know why Alberto Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT (1996), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Amouage Journey Man EDP (2014), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).
SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?
It’s spice and all things very nice with a combo of cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper in the opening. Sometimes it’s more peppery on my skin, which could be the elemi* at work.
It goes in a floral direction with tuberose (always welcome in male fragrances), building on the warmth of the opening. The white floral has a reputation for being animalic, but the perfumer focuses on its creaminess instead, with powdery iris in the background.
With the perfume’s name, it’s welcome to the darker side in the drydown, but in an accessible way. There’s rich earthiness from patchouli and cypriol, while benzoin gives it an element of soft vanilla-ish sweetness.
Is that you I hear wanting to know about the rum booziness that was such an integral part of the original’s appeal? It’s one of the first things I looked out for when I started wearing Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s not featured in this one. But there’s more than enough to compensate for its absence.
The various elements come together to produce a fragrance that while smooth and sophisticated presents plenty of depth and character. I expect quality from Bulgari and the brand doesn’t disappoint with this latest addition to one of the more dependable designer franchises.
*As Alberto Morillas works for dsm-firmenich, it’s also good to see this parfum reflecting the company’s increasing commitment to responsibly sourced ingredients. For example, the elemi from the Philippines (the resin is hand harvested by farmers from July to March) comes from an established partnership that includes a digital system, Path2Farm, guaranteeing the traceability of the raw material from farm to final product.
THE PARFUM FACTOR
What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the deluge of parfums on the market, especially from big designer brands.
As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and extrait de parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.
If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about parfums, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.
If an eau fraiche (anything from 1 – 3%) and eau de cologne (2 – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then a parfum is the highest (20 to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.
EARTHLY ELEGANCE: Launched in 2009 and created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès Parfum is one of the best parfums, designer or otherwise.
To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. We’re looking at you Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum EDP Intense and others like it.
The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s a parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.
LEATHER REPORT: Released in 2018, way before the current invasion, Cartier Déclaration Parfum is another fine example of the genre.
Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s a parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?
Which brings me back to Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s a parfum in terms of the concentration of ingredients, BUT it’s not dreaded beast-mode stuff. This is all good for me. I’ll certainly add it to the list of designer (and other) parfums I hold in high regard.
OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE
With his credentials, Alberto Morillas is one of the few perfumers to create the original and all subsequent flankers in ranges such as Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Gucci Bloom and Bvlgari Man. Perhaps it’s part of the contract when he wins yet another brief.
Those marked with ** have been discontinued but are well worth seeking out. However, don’t pay crazy money for them just because I recommend them.
BULGARI MAN EDT** (2010)
The line makes its debut and sets the tone for future versions with its chic feel. Includes standout notes of violet leaf, bergamot, vetiver, Cashmeran and honey.
BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)
One of the best iterations, it opens with an irresistible trio of spice, rum and tobacco notes. They’re perfectly blended and balanced.
The sensual mood continues with smooth leather and a hint of powdery iris. The tonka bean, guaiac wood and benzoin notes in the drydown have a sophisticated vanilla-ish facet.
A snug treat.
BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)
Lots of spice, leather and oud + a bit of rum booziness and florals (tuberose, rose) = oriental with major sex appeal.
BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)
Rum meets the freshness and greenery of citrus, then deftly contrasted with the sunny white florals of tuberose and orange blossom. An amber accord, benzoin and sandalwood up the creamy warmth.
BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)
After all that rum booziness, the range takes a more sober direction with a trio of woodiness – cypress, cedar, vetiver – supported by the fresh spiciness of lemon and coriander.
The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.
Signature scent material, if that’s your thing.
BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)
A citrusy spin on its predecessor. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedarwood and cypriol oil.
There’s a big dose of Ambrox in this creation, which, depending on your view on this synthetic form of ambergris, will be good or bad news. It’s enhanced by a white musk note.
Not the most exciting fragrance, but it will make you feel good.
BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)
No prizes for guessing that with a name like Glacial Essence, this is a freshie.
Juniper berries, cool and aromatic, stand out in the opening. There’s a hint of spicy ginger in the background. A note of Australian sandalwood brings creamy smoothness to the composition, while orris root does its powdery thing.
And now for some science (which perfumery is often about). Clearwood features in the drydown. This synthetic molecule from dsm-firmenich is a softer and airier version of patchouli and completes the scent in a clean and modern way.
BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)
Zesty citron leads the way to vetiver and orris concrete, their woodiness complemented by just the right amount of sensual smokiness and spiciness via resinous styrax.
Seemingly straightforward stuff, but compelling nevertheless in a dry style.
BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)
The opening is slightly citric (orange) and somewhat green and herbal (green tea). The latter features often in Bulgari fragrances, which should come as no surprise – the brand has the distinction of launching the first tea scent in 1992 (the Jean-Claude Ellena creation Bulgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert EDC). The white lotus accord contributes a floral and aquatic aspect, without going overboard on the waterworks.
Alberto Morillas is known for his love of and expertise with musks and while there’s plenty of that powderiness here, it’s not overpowering.
The warm amber accord in the drydown is joined by the musky-spicy tones of guaiac wood.
If I’m being fussy and literal, it doesn’t necessarily make me think of rain when I wear it. But it certainly has the rejuvenating qualities of that element, so mission accomplished.
