Essential Parfums: Niche For People With Real Budgets

If you went shopping at a niche retailer, you could be forgiven for thinking that niche must be synonymous with big spending. And there are certainly many examples of that. But Essential Parfums proves otherwise.

Perhaps because the French brand founded by Géraldine Archambault in 2018 keeps concentrations at the lower end of the EDP spectrum, Essential Parfums keeps costs lower too.

The house provides quality, distinctiveness and creativity at a most attractive price that’s even cheaper than many designer brands. When I saw the price on a bottle when I first started getting into the house, I thought it must be a mistake. But no, I’ll adopt that dreadful phrase, it is what it is. Even with our hideous exchange rate. (They’ve just gone the extrait de parfum route with Bois Impérial. Also very reasonably priced.)

My quick thoughts on some Essential Parfums releases below.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS PATCHOULI MANIA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

Every now and then one I come across a fragrance that reminds me why I love a raw material so much. This 2023 release is one of those perfumes.

Patchouli can be described as earthy, chocolate-y, woody and spicy, and all those qualities are brought out here, along with some ambergris muskiness via the synthetic Cetalox.

While earthy, it’s not dirty. Perhaps due to perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin’s use of the dsm-firmenich captive molecule Clearwood.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ROSE MAGNETIC EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)

Sophie Labbé enhances the fruitiness of the queen of florals with litchi in this 2018 release.

The sharpness of grapefruit and freshness of mint tempers the sweetness of vanilla, with clean musks in sensual attendance.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS MON VETIVER EDP (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

The 2018 Bruno Jovanovic creation Mon Vetiver is just that. My (kind of) vetiver.

The soft smokiness of Haitian vetiver meets the sharp freshness of juniper berry, lime and gentian. There’s woody muskiness from the synthetic Cashmeran, while patchouli enhances the earthiness of the title note.

It all adds up to produce a vetiver scent that’s easy on the nose and the pocket.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS THE MUSC EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Created by Calice Becker, The Musc (2018) sees the Givaudan captive molecule musk Nirvanolide faceted with the fresh spiciness of ginger, floral tones of lavandin and sophisticated sweetness of beeswax.

Australian sandalwood brings woody creaminess to the seemingly simple composition. The result: powdery distinctiveness with contrasts of freshness and warmth.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS DIVINE VANILLE EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Before Olivier Pescheux died in 2023, he created gems like this 2019 release. It’s everything I want a vanilla-centric fragrance to be: warm, spicy, cosy, creamy, not too sweet.

The woodiness in the mix, courtesy of cedar, ups the appeal. Although lots of effort must have gone into its creation, it doesn’t try too hard to please.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS FIG INFUSION EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

The title note comes to life with the bright citrus of mandarin orange and clementine in this 2022 creation.

There’s more freshness from notes of freesia and mandarin orange, with complexity from black tea and sandalwood. I always feel calmer when I wear it.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS ORANGE X SANTAL EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Let’s do some fragrance arithmetic, shall we?

Orange x santal = Yes, yes please.

There’s a most pleasing contrast of sweet and sour in the opening of this 2018 release. There’s also fresh aromatics from basil and cypress. Sustainably sourced Australian sandalwood brings on the creaminess in the drydown, with a touch of earthy oakmoss. The price, as with all releases from this company, also makes me a happy boy.

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS BOIS IMPERIAL EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

Is it? Or isn’t it? And does it really matter?

There’s more than enough online discussion about the similarities between Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP and Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade*, both created by Quentin Bisch. So I won’t get bogged down in that debate here.

First, there’s the citric spiciness of Nepalese timut pepper absolute mingling with the clove-ish tones of Thai basil in this 2020 release.

The highly accomplished perfumer then goes down the woody path with a combo of captive molecules from Givaudan (the fragrance company he works for) – Akigalawood (upcycled patchouli) and Georgywood (cedarwood) – and the earthiness of Indonesian patchouli. A good helping of Ambrofix gives it muskiness and staying power.

This is what I call a shape-shifter. Despite its seeming simplicity on paper, it reveals different facets with each wearing. Sometimes fresh and breezy, other times deep and spicy and then silky, almost ISO E Super-ish. But always intriguing and rewarding.

*For the record: it’s similar. And it isn’t. Hope that helps.

Essential Parfums are available in South Africa from Skins.

January 9, 2019January 12, 2019

Cheap Thrills: 8 Best Budget Fragrance Buys

So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.

“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”

Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.

NO 4711 Original EDC

This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18^th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.

The Body Shop Activist EDt

This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.

Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)

I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.

Best Budget Fragrance Buys - Giorgio Beverly Hills EDP — RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.

Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP

Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.

Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)

I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.

Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT

There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)

Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.

March 10, 2017March 13, 2017

3 BARGAIN FRAGRANCES TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION

Bargains Main Pic

I love popping into stores to check out the latest fragrance launches and to sniff out those I might have missed. Those fragrances are inevitably on the expensive side. I have learned, though, that if I step away from the branded, fancy counters, there are remarkably good bargain fragrances to be discovered on the cheaper, less glamorous shelves.

If you’re going to be doing some bargain hunting yourself, the trick here is to be patient. You will need to sift through a lot of bottles to find the bargain fragrance that appeals to you. But the rewards, in terms of money saved and fragrance gem found, will be well worth it.

These bargain fragrances get the Fragroom thumbs up:

QUORUM EDT

Originally launched in 1981, Quorum packs an old-school power punch with dominant notes of oakmoss, leather, tobacco, artemisia and sandalwood. This bargain fragrance is super-masculine stuff, irresistibly earthy and is as far from generic as you can get. It’s not often you will find quality at this price, so hunt it down now.

Price: R220 for 50ml and R320 for 100ml.

Bargains Quorum

4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE

Price: R280 for 100ml and R395 for 150ml.

Bargains 4711

JEANNE ARTHES COLONIAL CLUB EDT

Jeanne Arthes might not have the immediate prestige of some of the more high-end fragrance companies, but it still produces some goodies. A tad on the sweeter side, Jeanne Arthes Colonial Club is a sophisticated take on jasmine, musk, patchouli and cedar notes. It smells way more expensive than its price suggests.

Price: R200.

Bargains Colonial Club

Tag: BUDGET FRAGRANCES