Tag: BEST ROSE FRAGRANCES

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Amandine Clerc-Marie Interview: “Crafting Fragrances Is Neither A Lonely Art, Nor A Straight Line”

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

When I received news earlier this year that Amandine Clerc-Marie had been promoted to principal perfumer at dsm-firmenich, I wasn’t surprised.

The perfumer has created a steady and substantial body of work since her debut in 2003, with creations that include:

+ Kenneth Cole Black EDP (2004)

+ Jovoy Chypre EDP (2007)

+ Chloé EDP (2008)

+ MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP (2008)

+ Jaguar Vision EDT (2010)

+ Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud EDP (2011)

+ Atkinsons Oud Save The King EDP (2013)

+ Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014)

+ Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP (2015)

+ Sisley Izia EDP (2017)

+ Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP (2018)

+ Davidoff Cool Water Intense For Her EDP (2019)

+ Escada Candy Love EDT (2020)

+ Valentino Voce Viva EDP (2020)

+ Estée Lauder Sensuous Stars EDP (2021)

+ Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP (2022)

+ Burberry Goddess EDP (2023)

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

From earlier wins such as Lui Rochas EDT and Chloé EDP to huge hits such as Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Amandine Clerc-Marie has made her mark with her customary attention to quality and the all-important hook.

Lancome La Nuit Tresor EDP

IMAGE: Lancôme

While her finesse with the queen of florals is clear in several creations, I noticed as I was putting this story together, Amandine Clerc-Marie is the queen herself when it comes to vanilla. The ingredient pops up in everything from Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Mugler Aura EDP and Escada Candy Love EDT to Valentino Voce Viva EDP and Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP.

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. For those who aren’t in the industry, what does a principal perfumer do?

I create a lot of fragrances for many fine fragrance brands. I meet artists, be they designers or creative directors; I spend time with clients to understand what they’re after.

“A perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

I also like to spend time with our trainee perfumers as I value the high importance of transmission in our profession. I take part in evaluation sessions during which new qualities or even new ingredients are presented to me. I come up with new combinations. You know, a perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!

MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP

IMAGE: MDCI Parfums.

Where did perfumery start for you?

Ever since I was a child, I’ve had a passion for perfume. My mother worked for a perfume house. Creating perfume seems to be part of my DNA.

My earliest olfactive memories are of my grandfather’s home in Normandy, France, where I wandered freely, discovering the natural world around me. I can still close my eyes and remember the pungent odours of grass and crumpled leaves bordering the garden pond with its wet, humid air – fresh, green and aromatic. I also recall the smell of ripe apples which my grandfather made into his own cider, a scent and taste I still love today.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

My own career came about quite naturally. During my apprenticeship, while learning about raw materials, my sense of smell suddenly came to life. At the end of my studies at ISIPCA, I wrote a thesis on modernising the leather note in Hermès Bel Ami EDT and it was at this point that I met Michel Almairac, with whom I worked for more than 10 years at Robertet.

Michel Almairac

IMAGE: Robertet

Working with Michel Almairac after completing your studies at ISIPCA must have been a formative experience for you. What do you value most about your time spent with him?

Michel Almairac taught me to work on short formulations, with only raw materials essential in my formula. No superfluous ingredients were allowed. Just like him, I still overdose one or two notes at the beginning of the composition, keeping his practice of starting with something a little bit crazy to affirm a strong stance. But I learned to balance his overdose faster than what I used to.

“He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision. He taught me everything with kindness and patience, but still with demand.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP

What was your fine fragrance debut? And how did your career progress from there?

My very first win was a woody-chypre fragrance called Lui Rochas, with Michel, in 2003. The big turning point was then in 2008 with the creation with Michel Almairac of Chloé EDP that instantly became a classic.

Then in 2011, I joined dsm-firmenich and had the opportunity to start working with masters, such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc, who have been great partners and mentors for me here.

Lui Rochas EDT

IMAGE: Rochas.

What advice would you give to young perfumers just starting their careers?

I would tell them to demand the best of themselves, stay determined, be diligent and always remain optimistic.

You’ve created several rose-focused fragrances. For example, Chloé EDP (2008), Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014) and Sisley Izia EDP (2017). Is this an ingredient you particularly enjoy working with?

Rose is the most fascinating ingredient. Even though she is considered the “queen of perfumery”, it’s true that only the rose can offer such a multi-faceted experience with so many varieties.

Perfumers have never ceased to explore roses and I doubt that will ever stop. Roses have all the qualities that can be expected in a perfume and are themselves one of the most complex perfumes.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chopard Rose Malaki EDP

Your 2017 co-creation Mugler Aura EDP pushed the boundaries for a designer fragrance and I would imagine it took some time to reach the final version. Was this project more complicated than others?

Indeed, it’s been one of the most complicated creations that I have worked on. We wanted it to be innovative and unique and also extremely powerful.

It was also a huge challenge for our group of perfumers (Daphné Bugey, Christophe Raynaud, Marie Salamagne and Olivier Cresp) to come up with a new proposition after the mythical Angel – a personal favourite – and the blockbuster Alien. It’s in Mugler’s DNA to challenge the world of perfumery with every new creation, which puts a bit of pressure on you!

Mugler Aura EDP

IMAGE: Mugler.

Burberry Goddess (2023) is a recent success of yours. You used the FirGood technology in its creation. It sounds very technical. Could you simplify it for us?

For Goddess, I used three distinct types of vanilla extraction. The first is a Vanilla infusion, which provides the brightest woody-vanilla possible, then I used FirGood Vanilla for the first time in a fragrance: this innovative technology enables us to extract vanilla without any solvent, obtaining a sweet, rich and animalic vanilla. Lastly, with an absolute, which is darker and richer, gave the fragrance a mysterious, milky aspect.

“Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

Exploring vanilla was a very inspiring playground. What really interested me about this project was discovering its new facets. Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery. Bringing a totally new vision of vanilla to Burberry was my day-to-day challenge, and I loved it!

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Burberry Goddess EDP

I have created the most powerful vanilla overdose on the market. It’s totally new and with a new vanilla extract, dsm-firmenich’s proprietary vanilla FirGood, that makes this creation so unique.

There’s no doubting your technical and creative skills. What other quality do you bring to projects that makes them such a success?

Being a visual person, I start the creation process with raw materials and the desire to pass on a strong olfactory message.

I begin with one or two raw materials to create a specific accord, which should be strong enough to be reworked for months and which will serve as my North Star and the signature of the fragrance. Once I have the initial accord, I surround it with other notes to present different samples to the brand, each representing a strong perspective. Finally, I tweak once more, depending on the brand’s feedback, to craft the finished scent.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Carolina Herrera Stallion Leather EDP

Creating fragrances is similar to sculpting. We mould the invisible, working on volumes of specific scents to adjust the overall performance of notes.

It’s important to know that crafting fragrances is neither a lonely art, nor a straight line. We really count on the advice and help of our laboratory team, and often execute many rounds of iterations that push our creative boundaries.

Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP and Burberry Goddess EDP are available in South Africa from selected Edgars stores nationwide. 

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Les Parfums de Rosine: An Interview With Artistic Director Louis Rogeon

Les Parfums de Rosine - Louis Rogeon

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Fragrance nerd alert! Did you know that the first designer to launch a perfume was Paul Poiret (pictured, below)? The Parisian couturier founded his company, Parfums de Rosine (named after his daughter), in 1911. It enjoyed considerable success until it was forced to close when the Great Depression hit in 1929.

Les Parfums de Rosine - Paul Poiret

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

The house was brought back to life in 1991 when Marie-Hélène Rogeon (pictured, below) acquired it, with a focus on roses. Since then, the brand has become renowned for its quality takes on the queen of florals.

Les Parfums de Rosine - Marie-Hélène Rogeon

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

I speak to artistic director Louis Rogeon about balancing heritage and innovation, the versatile appeal of roses and the house’s latest release.

What’s your designation at the company and what does it involve?

We are an independent company with a jack-of-all-trades team. My role is mainly that of artistic director. I take care of product development: concept, packs and visuals, as well as olfactory creation.

Les Parfums de Rosine Bulle de Rose EDP

Condolences for your mother’s death last year. Have you taken on more responsibilities since her passing?

Thank you so much. I obviously cannot replace her. She has been the soul of this perfume house for over 30 years and a pioneer in niche perfumery.

Of course, I am taking on new tasks, particularly closer relationships with our various partners and in the administrative follow-up of the company.

We are a small team but overflowing with passion. Everyone has stepped up their work since this sad event.

Les Parfums de Rosine - Marie-Hélène Rogeon

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

The company was originally founded by couturier Paul Poiret. What made it such an attractive investment?

The main attraction lies in the fact that our family worked for the Poiret house in the 1920s. They mainly collaborated in the packaging of perfumes. There was therefore a clear lineage. My mother grew up in this universe. As a child at home, there were many old bottles, trimmings and other illustrations dating back to that time.

“The figure of Paul Poiret fascinated her. He was an avant-garde with boundless creativity.”

The figure of Paul Poiret fascinated her. He was an avant-garde with boundless creativity. Not many people know it, but he was also the first couturier to create his own brand of perfumes.

Les Parfums de Rosine LeSnob N°3 EDP

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Reviving a brand isn’t easy, even one with such an illustrious heritage. What were the greatest challenges at the time of acquisition?

Surprisingly, the acquisition of the brand was easy. The descendants were sensitive to the idea of my mother and to the fact that this perfume house could come back to life.

The main challenge then was to recreate a concept from this heritage. For several years, the brand was a mono-perfume, with La Rose de Rosine  (pictured, below) as the only reference. It was only gradually that my mother developed the idea of a brand based around the concept of the rose.

Les Parfums de Rosine La Rose de Rosine

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

How do you maintain the balance between respect for heritage and contemporary innovation?

Things are done quite naturally. In their presentations, our products borrow from the brand’s Art Deco past, notably with our logos: the “R” and the double rose. The trimmings – in different forms – have also been preserved.

Then, in stages, our products evolved to be innovative: coloured bottles appeared, accompanied by more contemporary packs and visual universe.

The perfumers with whom we collaborate have also participated in this dynamic. They are all young noses which spontaneously created a contemporary perfumery.

Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No 5 EDP

All Les Parfums de Rosine perfumes have a rose theme. Is that ever limiting for the perfumers you collaborate with?

Not at all. All our creations have a trace of rose but ultimately few are worked like real rose scents. Only La Rose de Rosine and Rose Nue (pictured, below) can be considered soliflores. At the same time, they are two fragrances of great complexity with multiple facets.

Our collection covers all olfactory families, with woody, fruity, citrus, marine fragrances, etc. In most of our creations, the rose is present as an element that expresses the olfactory signature of our brand. The rose is above all a delicious, elegant and timeless raw material which gives a lot of roundness and richness to the perfumes.

Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Nue EDP

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Let’s talk about your latest release, Bulle de Rose, created by Serge de Oliviera. What makes it different from other perfumes from the brand?

Bulle de Rose is a powdery fragrance that revisits, with freedom and modernity, the legendary note of Camay soap. Its originality remains in its construction: it is a fragrance that is both fresh and opulent. The base notes – sandalwood, patchouli, Ambroxan – may make one imagine a “heavy” fragrance, yet it remains sparkling and radiant with an impression of cleanliness given by the soapy accord.

Les Parfums de Rosine Bulle de Rose EDP

Serge de Oliveira has created a number of fragrances for the brand. Why do you enjoy working with him?

Serge is a perfectionist. The pleasure we have in working with him is simple and natural because he spontaneously understood the DNA of our brand. The exchange is therefore very pleasant. He is a creative young perfumer, with an immense culture of perfume.

We have already developed four fragrances together. The first was Bleu Abysse, in which he mixed mineral and iodine notes with a background of oud. This is certainly the first time that a perfume has dared to go with this accord. He blew us away from the start!

Les Parfums de Rosine Bleu Abysse EDP

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

How you prefer to work with your perfumers? Are they given a tight brief? Or is there lots of room for interpretation?

It’s a mix of the two. Although our briefs are quite precise, we like perfumers to feel as free as possible in their creations.

We love nothing more than being surprised. Then the dialogue takes place (sometimes over the long term). It is during this exchange that the most beautiful creations come to fruition.

Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Griotte EDP

What can we look forward to in 2022 from Les Parfums de Rosine?

I cannot say much because we are planning some important novelties for the brand and this work remains confidential for the moment…

Order Les Parfums de Rosine fragrances from the brand’s website. 

 

 

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Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP Review: All Dressed Up (Perfume-Wise) & Nowhere To Go

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

There are rose perfumes that bludgeon you with their intensity and potency. And there are those that seduce you with their artistry and sophistication, such as Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

It’s one of the earlier releases (2004) from the London-based niche fragrance house’s Signature Collection. And perfectly captures the goal of founder Linda Pilkington (pictured below) “ to combine elements which define true elegance: the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient”.

Image: ormondejayne.com.

That oriental mood is evident right from the start of this EDP created by Geza Schoen (pictured below), better known recently for Escentric Molecules. Honeyed saffron mingles with rosy pink peppercorns, while date oil brings delicate fruitiness to the composition.

Taif rose is the star of this scent show. Pilkington was enchanted when she visited the Saudi Arabia city. It’s famous for its rose farms which harvest well over 300 million flowers to produce the finest rose oil, according to the Saudi Tourism Authority. Schoen’s treatment of this rose is masterful, balancing its sweet depth, soft powderiness and tea-like qualities with utmost skill. The mood is accentuated by a trio of florals – freesia, jasmine and orange blossom – fresh and sweet at the same time.

Image: www.visitsaudi.com.

The drydown is equally memorable and maintains the sophisticated sweetness. The earthiness of Ugandan vanilla absolute meets the floralcy of broom and muskiness of amber.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was created for special occasions. But seeing that in these Covid third wave times, I don’t have any of those lined up any time soon, I’m being decadent wearing this beauty in my pyjamas as I type these words.

I’m super-keen to try the elixir version of this perfume, which brings Cambodian oud to the mix.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP is available from Galeries de Parfums.

 

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3 Classic Rose Fragrances: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP + Amouage Lyric Man EDP + Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Classic Rose Fragrances

Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.

Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP

Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.

A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.

According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.

A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa. 

Classic Rose Fragrances

Amouage Lyric Man EDP

Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.

“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”

Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).

Classic Rose Fragrances

It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.

I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.

Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.

Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.

There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.

“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”

As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.

Available on the brand’s website.

Classic Rose Fragrances

 

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10 Best Rose Fragrances: Fragroom’s Queen Of Florals Mix

Best Rose Fragrances

Not for nothing is the rose known as the queen of flowers and, I can add, a mainstay of perfumery. This year alone, big releases include Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose EDP, Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP and Dior Miss Dior Rose N’Roses EDT. I haven’t tried any of these yet due to the current coronavirus situation, hence their possible exclusion from this best roses fragrances list.

Best Rose Fragrances

Rose fragrances are always popular and part of their appeal is due to the multitude of ways in which they can be interpreted. From fresh and dewy to rich and decadent, there’s one for you. I’ve included a mix of styles, modern classics and newbies in this best roses round-up to give you a sense of the variety on offer.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

I would love to hear about your best rose fragrances.

Best Rose Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE PORTRAIT OF A LADY EDP* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

No best rose fragrances list would be complete without the inclusion of this modern masterpiece that’s affectionately known by its fans as POAL. An extraordinary perfume demands a different type of review, so here are five facts:

  1. It’s named after the Henry James novel, which was published in 1891.
  2. Its creator, Dominique Ropion, who is highly regarded for scents such as Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Mugler Alien, received The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer Award in 2019.
  3. Released in 2010, it has become one of the most revered niche fragrances of the last decade.
  4. According to the brand’s website, each 100ml bottle contains no less than 400 Turkish roses.
  5. That said, this is a seamless fragrance that whispers its supreme beauty from the opening rose note. Tinges of raspberry and black currant bring delicate fruity piquancy to the blend, while cloves add spicy warmth. An ultra-refined patchouli note takes the lead in the drydown and is given just the right amount of sensual mystery with swirls of smoky frankincense and creamy sandalwood.

While you are in Frédéric Malle mode, make sure to sniff out the other superb rose EDPs from the Paris-based niche house, including Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier and Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Best Rose Fragrances

UNUM ROSA NIGRA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FILIPPO SORCINELLI)

Filippo Sorcinelli has to be one of the most interesting perfumers working today. The Italian is the consummate slashie. Artist. Musician. Photographer. Storyteller. Designer. Creator of vestments for the Catholic Church, including for Pope Francis’s first mass. All of these talents are reflected in his conceptual perfumes. His range, Unum, was launched in 2014.

Rosa Nigra is an utterly captivating, enveloping and complex rose fragrance. Actually, it’s more of an experience, which is inspired by French cathedrals and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Except it doesn’t contain a rose note. He creates the effect through an olfactory illusion. Sorcinelli achieves this by playing with a variety of notes, especially freesia and peach, and fleshes it out with absinthe, sandalwood, cashmere wood, amber, vanilla and musk.

Every detail, from the choice of notes to the design of the bottle, has symbolic significance. And you don’t have to be a Catholic, religious or spiritual to “get” it.

Best Rose Fragrances

CHLOE EDP* (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE & MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

Launched in 2008, Chloé EDP proved to be a huge hit for the French fashion label. And for very good reason. It’s a beautifully fresh floral fragrance that showcases rose.

That freshness is evident right from the opening notes of freesia, peony and lychee. When the rose comes through, it’s dewy, perfectly pretty and supported by lily-of-the-valley and magnolia notes. Featuring notes of amber and cedar, the drydown is warm and woody.

Yes, it’s a popular fragrance. But don’t let that put you off sniffing out this modern classic that can give much pricier niche options a run for their money.

Best Rose Fragrances

DIPTYQUE EAU CAPITALE EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche fragrance brand pays tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity with this 2019 release.

The intro belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose from Turkey and Bulgaria. This is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background.

For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy characteristics of Indonesian heart of vetiver and Haitian vetiver.

Best Rose Fragrances

ACQUA DI PARMA ROSA NOBILE EDP*

Acqua di Parma’s Le Nobili Collection has a floral focus and includes peony and magnolia versions. Rosa Nobile is an absolute beauty.

This EDP centres on Centifolia rose buds. According to the Italian niche brand, these are hand-picked from an organic plantation in Piedmont. They give the scent a fresh, leafy facet that’s perfectly complemented by notes of Sicilian mandarin, pepper, peony, cedarwood and musk. There’s also a hint of ambergris in the drydown, which could be why this perfume is usually on the pricey side.

I’d love to congratulate the creator of this 2014 release on a job well done, but Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t disclose its perfumers.

Best Rose Fragrances

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP*

There are many notable fragrances in the Swedish niche brand’s line-up, including Pulp, Super Cedar, Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique. But the lesser-known and charmingly named Rose of No Man’s Land, inspired by the nickname given by soldiers to the life-saving nurses during World War I, is highly recommended if you’re looking for a gentle intro to rose fragrances.

This 2015 release opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by subtle pink peppercorn. The centrepiece is softly-enveloping Turkish rose absolute, nicely finished off with notes of amber and papyrus.

It’s a very warm, agreeable and accessible fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

Best Rose Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’EAU A LA ROSE EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Launched in 2014, Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP is a truly gorgeous rose fragrance. This 2019 release is a good alternative if you’re looking for a softer, but equally alluring take on the theme.

It opens with an airy lychee accord, without becoming a typically sweet fruity floral. Centifolia rose absolute and Damascena rose oil give this EDT its floral flair, while peony keeps it on the fresh side of things.

Settling on a base of musks, it’s luxurious and sensual in a quiet way. Perfect for spring and summer – and even before bedtime.

Best Rose Fragrances

DS & DURGA ROSE ATLANTIC EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Trust self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz of NYC-based niche fragrance house DS & Durga to do something completely different with a rose perfume.

You’ll know this is not the usual rose scent right from the opening of this 2016 release, featuring bitter-ish notes of bergamot and lemon oil, with rose petals slightly softening the effect. A fine rose accord comes through in the heart of the fragrance, with linden blossom in support. But this is a rose drenched in salt water. Lots of it. As if you’re aboard the ship Salt Spray Rose. What a clever boy!

A dose of white moss completes the mood.

Best Rose Fragrances

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex fragrance, the NYC-based niche fragrance house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded.

Best Rose Fragrances

LANCOME IDOLE EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, ADRIANA MEDINA-BAEZ & NADEGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

Lancôme’s first new perfume since the decade-defining La Vie est Belle has received much love and hate since its release in 2019. Negative reviews have declared it “boring” and “predictable”. I say try it for yourself. Well composed and a great example of a clean rose scent, it earns its place on this best rose fragrances list.

A delicately sweet note of pear opens the fragrance. Two essences (an absolute and rose water) have been used to make rose the star of the show. They give it a fresh, pure and green quality. Jasmine is in the background.

White musks feature in the drydown and maintain the sense of purity.

Best Rose Fragrances

*These best rose fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Perfumed Travels: Diptyque Eau Capitale + Lady Hamilton Hotel Review

Diptyque Eau Capitale

Judging by all the online reviews I am seeing (and avoiding reading, in case I’m influenced by them), Diptyque Eau Capitale is the first big niche release of 2020 (although it was officially launched late last year).

I was recently in Cape Town for business and brought Diptyque Eau Capitale with me as my fragrance companion. There’s nothing like spending uninterrupted time with a perfume to really get a proper sense of it. It’s kind of like spending time away with a partner – for better and for worse.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

INSPIRATION

Since its founding in 1961, Diptyque has been synonymous with Paris and all its unique facets of arts, culture, literature and architecture. With Diptyque Eau Capitale, the niche fragrance brand is at last paying tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity.

“Diptyque Eau Capitale is significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance.”

Diptyque Eau Capitale is also significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance. As part of its homage to Paris, the company thought it would be fitting to release a chypre – perhaps the most classical of perfumes, as epitomised by François Coty’s 1917 masterpiece.

SO WHAT DOES DIPTYqUE EAU CAPITALE SMELL LIKE?

Olivier Pescheux, who has produced several acclaimed scents for the brand over the years, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Eau des Sens, Vetyverio and Tempo, was a natural choice to create this latest addition.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

MAISON FRIEND: Olivier Pescheux has created several successful fragrances for Diptyque. Image: Givaudan.

The intro to the scent belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose. Sourced from Turkey and Bulgaria, this is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background. For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy qualities of Indonesian heart of patchouli and Haitian vetiver.

Some people are comparing Diptyque Eau Capitale with the Frédéric Malle tour de force Portrait of A Lady, not always favourably or fairly. Perhaps, because they both have dominant notes of rose and patchouli. These are very, very different fragrances and should be judged on their own merits. It’s not an either/or situation. Diptyque Eau Capitale stands out in its own right.

If longevity and sillage are priorities for you when buying a perfume, this EDP won’t disappoint. It’s one of the most potent I’ve smelled in a long time.

The fragrance proved to be the perfect travel partner. Present and engaging, but not suffocating. Intriguing, multi-dimensional and stimulating, yet approachable. Versatile and memorable.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. Look out for my interview with Olivier Pescheux in my next blog post.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

LADY HAMILTON HOTEL, GARDENS, CAPE TOWN

One of Cape Town’s most famous landmarks is the swanky Mount Nelson. Unfortunately, my blogger income wouldn’t allow me to set up temporary home at the five-star hotel. After some research, I came across another charming pink lady, in close proximity to the grande dame, the Lady Hamilton Hotel.

THE GRANDE DAME: The Mount Nelson Hotel.

Sure, this three-star hotel is a bit frayed around the edges, part of its charm I think. But it more than compensates with its:

  • Location, location, location – it’s close to buzzing Kloof Street, Table Mountain and the centre of the city.
  • Amiable and helpful staff.
  • Tasty buffet breakfast (included in the rate).
  • Facilities such as free WiFi, bar and complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge;
  • Pool area – although I didn’t actually do the water baby thing, I spent my downtime getting horizontal on one of the deck chairs.

Apart from providing a comfortable base for my Cape Town trip, the Lady Hamilton Hotel also provided a fab boho-colonial setting for the Diptyque Eau Capitale pics featured in this post.

Disclaimer: I paid for two nights (R890 per night on a bed and breakfast basis) for a standard twin room with shower at the hotel and was given one night free in exchange for coverage on my blog. For more information on the hotel and bookings, read here.

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Interview with Shyamala Maisondieu, Co-Creator Of Lancôme Idôle

Shyamala Maisondieu

When Shyamala Maisondieu was awarded the 2019 Prix François Coty in recognition of her career and creations, it was confirmation of what I had known for a while. The Malaysian-born perfumer is one of the brightest perfume talents of her generation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

A quick snap-shot of her diverse creations/co-creations will tell you that:

  • Etat Libre d’Orange Charogne EDP (2008)
  • Yves Rocher Rose Fraîche EDT(2012)
  • Diesel Only The Brave Wild EDT (2014)
  • Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus EDP (2015)
  • L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)
  • 27 87 Hamaca EDP (2017)
  • Coach Floral EDP (2018)
  • Mugler Cologne Run Free EDT (2018)
  • Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)
  • Coach Dreams EDP (2020)

Image: etatlibredorange.com.

Little wonder Shyamala Maisondieu was chosen to co-create Lancôme Idôle EDP. It’s the first new perfume launch from the French beauty giant since their decade-defining La Vie Est Belle.

It’s too soon to tell whether it will go on to repeat the success of its predecessor. But there’s no doubting that this new EDP will receive equal amounts of love and hate. For my review of this clean rose fragrance, please see my Instagram page (@richgoller).

Shyamala Maisondieu

Shyamala Maisondieu chatted to me about this prestige project, its pressures and her perfume career.

What attracted you to the world of perfumery?

I actually came to it by accident. It was after I had graduated in chemical engineering, was looking for a job and happened to see an advertisement in a local newspaper in Malaysia looking for graduates with a chemistry background. But what attracted me was the mention that I would be willing to travel and live in another country.

“It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.”

What really won me over was when I met a perfumer who told me all about his job, and I realised there and then, it was exactly what I wanted to do. It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: liquidesimaginaires.com.

Where did you study? What was the most important thing you learned there?

I was very, very lucky to have been able to study at the perfumery school of Givaudan, while it was in Grasse. I had a teacher, Francoise Marin, who insisted on us being curious. That has stayed with me and fuelled how I see life in general. I am always open to new ideas. That is one of the most important things about being a perfumer.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the first fragrance you created and how do you feel about it now?

I’ve had two different perfumery lives. I started off as a perfumer in consumer products (detergent, soaps and shampoo). And then in 2016 I joined the Givaudan fine fragrance team. There are two fragrances which I created at that time: Tom Ford Bois Marocain EDP [2009] and Eau de Sisley 3 EDP [2009]. I still am very proud of them. They are both raw and at the same time express very much what I like in perfumery – a central focus on natural raw materials.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: tomford.com.

How would you describe yourself as a perfumer?

Difficult question to answer. I love what I do and feel so blessed to be able to do what I do every day. But it was a long and difficult road, quite bumpy at times. I wouldn’t be here if it hadn’t been for many people, luck, but also a lot of hard work and patience. Trying to be positive, I have a happy outlook in my life and respect people. I hope that reflects in my work.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the brief for Lancôme Idôle in terms of its olfactory profile?

It was to create a new olfactory profile that would appeal to the younger generation, but also globally. It was a challenging brief. Givaudan had done an interesting study to understand what was internationally appealing. The idea of the smell of cleanliness was important. With my background and early experience in other product categories, I had an idea of what could smell clean. So I created this Clean & Glow accord, which straight away was loved by the fragrance developers at Lancôme.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Idôle is the brand’s first new fragrance following the huge success of La Vie est Belle. Did you feel any pressure to create another blockbuster?

Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare. But we had a great team and L’Oréal [the owner of Lancôme] also had that same pressure. Everyone was committed and we worked hard. We had a goal and somehow the pressure was turned into a positive motivation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

You co-created the fragrance with Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadege le Garlantezec. How does this kind of collaboration work? Are you responsible for different parts?

The creation process is different for different projects. The main thing is to have great communication within the team. For this project, we all worked in many different ways. We each tried to bring something special to the fragrance and also worked on it in a technical aspect, ie, in terms of strength diffusion and long-lastingness. Each of us brought something specific, but which wasn’t completely defined at the beginning. It sort of comes out because of our history, our background and the raw materials which we love.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Shyamala Maisondieu, Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadège Le Garlantezec co-created Lancôme Idôle.

Have you read reviews of the fragrance?

I’m still too nervous to read them. I think I’ll wait.

“Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare.”

You’re married to perfumer Antoine Maisondieu and work for the same company. How do you support each other?

Antoine and I have been separated for some time now, six years. But we met at perfumery school and were friends and colleagues before being husband and wife. We have managed to come back to that. Being friends and colleagues, but with something special still remaining in that, we trust each other. It is a question of sharing many things, be it ideas or information, or critical advice on each other’s perfumes.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: inter.mugler.com.

What other projects are you working on / have just completed?

I’ve just completed a new fragrance for Etat Libre d’Orange (I love this brand). I’m working with other colleagues on various projects, which is a lot of fun as I am learning from them. And I’m starting a lot of new ideas, but it’s still too early to see where they will end up.

For more info on Lancôme Idôle, read here. 

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Frédéric Malle Une Rose Review: A Dark, Wine-Soaked Classic

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

When Frédéric Malle launched his niche fragrance company, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, in 2 000, it was a novel idea for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle. Since then the Paris-based niche fragrance company has built its sought-after reputation on a succession of high-quality, classic releases created by the world’s top perfumers, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti. Launched in 2003 and created by Edouard Fléchier, Frédéric Malle Une Rose EDP is one of these classics.

Perfumer

By modern standards, Fléchier isn’t a prolific perfumer, but the Frenchman is highly regarded for creations such as Davidoff EDT, Montana Parfum d’Homme, Christian Lacroix C’est la Vie EDP and Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee EDP. His place in perfume history is assured with the 80s classic Christian Dior Poison. Most recently, in 2018, he created Aramis Tobacco Reserve EDP.

SO WHAT DOES UNE ROSE SMELL LIKE?

There’s no doubt that this is a rose fragrance from the opening, but it’s no ordinary rose. It’s rich, deep and full bodied with fruity and honey undertones, courtesy of the Turkish rose absolute. The production of this extract is a costly process, hence its use only in the finest perfumes. This rose is prominent throughout the stages of the fragrance, but its character morphs as other notes come into play. At times, there’s a slight sweetness to it, but mostly it’s dramatic and uncompromising.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

While taking in the beauty of this rose, the wine dregs add further character and depth to the mix. They bring woodiness to the scent. Geranium is often paired with rose in perfumery and it’s used to great effect in Frédéric Malle Une Rose, adding a herbal facet.

“While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown.”

While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown. The base notes of castoreum and vetiver work well together to complement the earthiness of the truffle accord. Like its edible counterpart, this accord is not for everyone and emphasises the dark aspect of the rose.

Remarkably authentic from start to finish, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a standout in a category where there’s no shortage of competition. It’s expensive, but well worth every hard-earned cent. Sophisticated and luxurious, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a top choice for rose perfume aficionados. Those who are new to rose perfumes might find it a bit overpowering. It will appeal to anyone who values craftsmanship at its best. Officially a fragrance for women, it’s perfectly unisex.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is available at Skins Cosmetics.