Africa-Inspired Fragrances: Fertile Ground For The Imagination

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.

“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”

The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.

There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.

Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)

I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.

The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.

Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).

This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)

Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.

The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.

Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.

4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.

The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.

*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

Sophie Berdoues Interview: Four Generations Of Perfumery

Berdoues

Heritage is a valuable commodity in the perfume industry, and Berdoues has it in abundance. Founded in 1902 by barber Guillaume Berdoues, the French company has remained a family-owned business over four generations and is currently led by the founder’s great grand-daughter, Sophie Berdoues.

I first heard of the brand last year when its Collection Grands Crus was launched in South Africa (its older collection 1902 might be launched in the country at a later stage).

For obvious reasons, travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. This range of 12 mostly unisex EDPs makes the most of it with an impressive variety of fairly straightforward, feel-good blends that evoke destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

Image: MapStudio.

I got to try all of the EDPs that are available in the country at a media launch in Cape Town in February this year. Two, in particular, have become regulars in my fragrance wardrobe.

Taking its cue from the Amazon rainforest and created by Jennifer Riley, Selva do Brazil opens with a super-fresh note of petitgrain from Paraguay. It’s sharp, invigorating and lushly green in character. Notes of tonka bean from Brazil and guaiac wood from Argentina add to the forest-y ambience. It’s a simple composition, but never fails to give me a mood boost.

Berdoues

Created by Philippe Romano, Maasaï Mara is a mellower and warmer, but equally appealing affair. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape.

Berdoues

I got to interview Sophie Berdoues via email about the importance of heritage, the collection and her work.

What is your main responsibility as president of the company?

I develop and lead the company’s strategy with my team. We define the general objectives, but I leave the final decisions about the financial, material and human resources to execute within the guidelines and decisions taken. I also lead the company’s management committee and am responsible for its results.

What’s the best part of your job?

The team work and launch of new projects.

And the most stressful?

Sometimes having to make important decisions for the business alone.

Berdoues is very much about heritage. Why is it so important to you?

My father, like my grandfather, spent a lot of time and energy to develop high-quality perfumes. My father passed on to me the passion for perfumery, raw materials and, above all, freedom. I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.

“I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.”

Berdoues

FAMILY WAY: Sophie Berdoues is very proud of her family’s perfume heritage, which includes, clockwise from top right, her father Pierre, her grandfather Henri and great-grandfather Guillaume. Images: Berdoues.

Why did you launch the Collection Grand Crus?

We wanted to give a nod to my family through perfumes highlighting the most beautiful raw materials of perfumery, which I started to smell at a very young age. This is what seduced my family at the beginning of this story and today our consumers. We wanted to tell a story of travel through natural materials selected for their olfactory qualities – blends like the great French wines.

What criteria do you use for the perfumers who create the fragrances for the Collection?

It all starts with cards, photos, desires and a blank sheet. The destination inspires our perfumers. A lived or fantasised memory, it reveals a world region which, for us, carries history. This creation builds the search for materials where it is best expressed olfactively. The beauty of the world is endless, and so are our creations.

The fragrances are very reasonably priced. How did you achieve that?

We made the strategic choice of placing the entire budget in what is most important to us: perfume. And there, it’s my roots that speak. We have surrounded ourselves with perfumers based in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery in the south of France. For the other aspects of product creation, we have chosen to work with a standard bottle that we have dressed. We also work with local partners for all items of the product.

Berdoues fragrances are available from selected Foschini and Truworths stores. R1 595 for 100ml. 

*This post is sponsored by Orleans Cosmetics, the distributor of Berdoues Collection Grands Crus in South Africa.*