I can’t remember exactly when Akigalawood started being used in fine fragrances. But I know exactly when, to quote Malcolm Gladwell, it reached a tipping point when I saw it as part of the name of the 2024 release, New Notes Akigala Mandarino Extrait de Parfum. The captive ingredient*, exclusive to Givaudan, features in increasingly more fragrances. And is a great example of the growing role of biotech in perfumery.
From my research, some of the first fragrances to feature Akigalawood: Natura #Urbano EDT (2014), John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT (2015), Miu Miu EDP (2015) and Comme des Garçons Blackpepper EDP** (2016).
In recent years, it’s made its way into niche favourites such as Amouage Guidance EDP (2023) and designer standouts such as Hermès Barénia EDP (2025) alike.
I noticed that Givaudan’s Vice-President of Perfumery, Fragrance & Beauty, Jordi Fernández, has utilised it in many of his creations. So I asked him some questions on how and why he uses it. See his answers below.
Pierre Arnoux, Givaudan Marketing Manager S&T and FIB, also shared his insights in the interview below that one.
[*In my communications with Givaudan’s communications department, they stressed, “Akigalawood is a captive ingredient (not a molecule). Akigalawood is a natural (complex mixture) and not a single molecule.]
INTERVIEW WITH JORDI FERNÁNDEZ, GIVAUDAN MASTER PERFUMER
How would you describe Akigalawood?
Akigalawood has vibrant spicy character, combining peppery nuances with woody facets reminiscent of patchouli and agarwood. It gives a unique refined and lasting trail to a fragrance.
I would describe it as a luminous, spicy and full-bodied woody note that enhances the natural depth of patchouli facets in a composition.
Were you involved in its development in any way, from a perfumer’s perspective?
I was not directly involved in the development of Akigalawood. In that kind of process, research perfumers collaborate with the scientific team to evaluate new materials as they are created.
“This interaction between scientific and creative perspectives is essential in deciding which new materials will join the perfumers’ palette.”
Later, other perfumers may test these ingredients in real composition contexts. We assess how they perform across different types of briefs, considering aspects such as olfactive fit, technical constraints, regulations, cost and compatibility with other ingredients. This interaction between scientific and creative perspectives is essential in deciding which new materials will join the perfumers’ palette.
Were you a fan of it from the beginning? Or did it take time for you to appreciate it?
I started working with Akigalawood from the very beginning of its introduction. At first, it took me some time to truly understand its character and how to reveal its full potential in a composition.
Patchouli has always been my favourite ingredient. For me, it represents the power of the earth, a kind of natural strength that is deeply symbolic and that perfumery can express in a very direct way.
When I discovered Akigalawood, I immediately felt the connection. It is derived from patchouli and carries part of its character, but in a more refined and contemporary form. From the first trials, I appreciated how it could bring elegance, modernity and a distinct woody-spicy signature to a fragrance.
Specifically, let’s talk about how you’ve used it in some of your creations. 27 87 Genetic Bliss EDP** (2018) features a number of captive ingredients, including Akigalawood. Was it your idea to include all these captives?
Genetic Bliss was the fifth fragrance in the Next Generation Collection, and we decided to explore in depth the possibilities of captive ingredients in perfumery. That’s why we chose to work captive, exclusive, high-quality ingredients that could express a very modern identity.
What did Akigalawood bring to Maison Crivelli Oud Maracujá Extrait de Parfum** (2023)?
It brings a vibrant, spicy-woody facet that echoes the character of natural oud while adding a modern sense of clarity and diffusion. In this fragrance, Akigalawood helps bridge the richness of the oud accord with the fruity intensity of passion fruit and the luminous notes around it. It adds texture and resonance, reinforcing the tension between freshness and warmth, which defines the scent’s identity.
BDK Impadia EDP** (2025) has an oud-ish quality. Would that be Akigalawood at play there?
In Impadia, Akigalawood adds the woody and slightly spicy depth that can evoke the character of oud or agarwood. It brings a refined density and warmth to the fragrance, supporting the floral heart and enhancing the creamy, sensual base. Its spicy-woody vibration helps bridge the freshness of the rose bouquet with the roundness of the woods, contributing to the elegant trail that gives the composition its contemporary personality.
Are you encouraged, in the form of incentives, to use Akigalawood in your compositions?
As perfumers, we have complete creative freedom to choose the materials that best serve the concept and emotion we want to express. Of course, discovering and working with new ingredients is always exciting, but their inclusion in a formula depends entirely on olfactive relevance.
“Working with new ingredients is always exciting, but their inclusion in a formula depends entirely on olfactive relevance.”
INTERVIEW WITH PIERRE ARNOUX, GIVAUDAN MARKETING MANAGER S&T AND FIB
In my quest to find out more about Akigalawood, Pierre Arnoux answered a few questions, too. The S&T and FIB in his designation stand for Science & Technology and Fragrance Ingredient Business, respectively.
What are captive ingredients?
Captives are fragrance ingredients that have been created and patented by Givaudan. They are available exclusively to Givaudan perfumers, allowing them to craft original and distinctive olfactive signatures that cannot be replicated elsewhere.
When did Akigalawood become available?
Akigalawood was introduced into Givaudan’s perfumers’ palette in 2014.
Did anyone, in particular, invent it?
Akigalawood was developed by Givaudan’s research team in our biotechnology laboratory in Dübendorf, Switzerland (now Kemptthal).
Why is it such an appealing material?
Akigalawood adds a refined and contemporary character to fragrances. It combines woody and spicy unique facets that contribute depth and vibrancy to a composition.
It’s not a synthetic, but an example of a natural produced by biotech. What does that mean?
Biotechnology is a sustainable way to produce ingredients. It uses natural enzymes to transform materials. These enzymes act like microscopic factories – it’s similar to how enzymes are used in processes like brewing beer or making yoghurt.
We can use biotech to produce synthetic molecules or naturals. For example, Ambrofix is a synthetic molecule and it’s produced by biotech from sugar cane.
“Enzymes derived from fermentation processes act on patchouli oil residues to create a novel fragrance ingredient, allowing it to remain natural while gaining new olfactory qualities.”
Akigalawood, on its own, is a natural material, produced thanks to biotech. In the case of Akigalawood, enzymes derived from fermentation processes act on patchouli oil residues to create a novel fragrance ingredient. This approach allows the material to remain natural while gaining new olfactory qualities.
Was there a particular need for Akigalawood in the perfumers’ palette?
Givaudan continuously seeks new ingredients that can provide perfumers with distinctive signatures and creative possibilities. Akigalawood was developed to broaden this palette with a new type of woody-spicy facet.
Could you give us a quick list of other Givaudan captive ingredients?
While most captives remain confidential for intellectual property reasons, several have been shared publicly and advertised by our customers as hero ingredients, including Mahonial, Rosyfolia, Pomelol, Rosabloom, Petalia, Sylkolide and Ebelia.
**These fragrances available from Skins.