Tag: AQUATIC FRAGRANCES

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Kenzo Homme EDT Intense Review: A Thoroughly Modern Aquatic

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.

PERFUMER

Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.

The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.

He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.

SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.

I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Akigalawood

BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.

The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.

This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish.  Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.

Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…

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Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP Review: Waves Of Freshness

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

For such a best-seller, it’s taken a long time for Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP to be released. The original EDT was launched in 1996 and, like it or not, came to epitomise the decade’s trend for aquatic fragrances.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT

Along the way, it generated a succession of flankers, including Acqua di Giò Essenza EDP (2012), Acqua di Giò Profumo EDP (2015), Acqua di Giò Absolu EDP (2018), Acqua di Giò Profondo EDP (2020) and Acqua di Giò Profondo Lights EDP (2021). All variations on the sophisticated sun-and-sea theme.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Acqua di Giò EDP was released in 2022 and with the popularity of the franchise and a mega marketing budget to match, I tell you all you need to know about this latest addition.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Interesting to note that while the Italian luxury brand released relatively few flankers in the fragrance’s earlier life cycle, it seems to have increased the frequency in recent years to maximise its profitability.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

The new release is also very much in line with the company’s eco credentials. All sizes of Acqua di Giò EDP (40ml, 75ml, 125ml) can be unscrewed and refilled at home with the 150ml refill bottle sold separately. The wood cap means less use of plastic.

Various reforestation and conservation projects in Brazil, Madagascar, Peru and Zimbabwe contribute to the company’s carbon neutrality target by 2025.

PERFUMER

Where does one start with Alberto Morillas, creator of all the fragrances in the Acqua di Giò range?

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

Alberto Morillas is the master perfumer behind all the versions of Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. Image: Mizensir.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics with his finely tuned instinct for commercial success and knowledge of natural and synthetic ingredients.

There’s a good chance you’ve worn one of his many creations in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

If you want to know why Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT (1995), Givenchy PI EDT (1998), Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT (1999), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Bvlgari Man EDT (2010), Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT (2016), Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017), Gucci Bloom EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

GOLDEN TOUCH: Bvlgari Rose Goldea Blossom Delight EDP is one of the many creations of Alberto Morillas.

There’s a good reason why uber-vlogger Jeremy Fragrance worked with him to create his own range, Fragrance.One.

The Spaniard was awarded the Prix François Coty in 2003 and The Fragrance Foundation (USA) Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013, and launched his own perfume brand Mizensir in 2015.

Image: Mizensir.

SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening brings on a wave of Mediterranean citric freshness, thanks to Calabrian green mandarin*. It’s slightly sharp with a tinge of sunny floralcy.

There’s no missing the marine accord after that. It’s been amplified with Yodanol, a Firmenich captive molecule that enhances freshness with a velvety floral-green aspect. This should please those who found the original’s freshness faded too quickly.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

Provencal clary sage heart* gives the scent aromatic muskiness (the herb is a good substitute for ambergris, as the real stuff from the sperm whale costs a fortune and is rarely used nowadays), with floral assistance from notes of lavandin and geranium bourbon heart from Madagascar*.

The drydown is in typically masculine woody territory via a combo of patchouli from Guatemala*, Atlas cedarwood essence and vetiver from Haiti*.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

With its long-lasting freshness, Acqua di Giò EDP is certainly stronger and more focused than the original EDT. It’s easier to detect the listed notes in it. While still elegant and timeless, perhaps it has lost some of the complexity and soft appeal of the original in the process. There’s no doubt, it’s going to sell very well. Here’s hoping the brand doesn’t flanker the life out of this classic in the coming years.

*These ingredients have been sustainably sourced, according to the brand.

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Aquatic Fragrances Three Ways: Bvlgari Aqua Pour Homme + Heeley Sel Marin + Memo Ocean Leather

Aquatic Fragrances

For Covid-19 second-wave reasons, I shan’t be seeing the sea this time of year, as I’d hoped to do. But that won’t stop me from bringing the sea home when I have these three aquatic fragrances at my disposal.

Now, I have a conflicted relationship with the ocean. I find being near it calming and relaxing, especially the whooshing sound and salty breeze-laden smell. But I don’t necessarily enjoy being in it. Silly, I know…

BVLGARI AQUA POUR HOMME EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER-BELLETRUD)

Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, especially on the designer side, but many haven’t dated well. This popular Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (currently Louis Vuitton’s in-house perfumer) creation from 2005 is not one of those has-beens.

“Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, but many haven’t dated well.”

It opens in fresh citrus mode with notes of sweet mandarin orange and green petitgrain. It’s an uplifting combo. The seaweed note is subtly salty, its aromatic profile accentuated by lavender. Woody notes, specifically Virginia cedar and patchouli, continue the softness in the drydown. The amber is kept to a thankful minimum.

It’s a sophisticated, slightly restrained take on the theme. Great bottle too – the blue and green spherical shape captures its inspiration oh so cleverly.

Aquatic Fragrances

HEELEY SEL MARIN EDP* (JAMES HEELEY)

Wow! This 2008 release is a masterstroke. But that should come as no surprise. It’s a creation from the Yorkshire-born / Paris-based perfumer who’s responsible for beauties such as Heeley Cardinal (2006) and Heeley L’Amandière (2011). His skills are displayed to maximum effect in Sel Marin (French for “sea salt”).

Aquatic Fragrances

The intro is sharp, with citrus notes of bergamot and lemon conjuring a fresh sea breeze. It doesn’t take long for the main attraction to come into focus: a wondrous splash of moss, algae and, in particular, sea salt notes. Many aquatic fragrances are heavy-handed on the sea salt. This one gets it exactly right. The drydown is all about driftwoods, with fresh cedar and vetiver supported by clean musk and a hint of leathery birch.

Although inspired by sunny days at the beach, I get a far moodier and tempestuous feel. Either way, it’s as realistic as it gets.

Aquatic Fragrances

MEMO OCEAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo does some of the best leather fragrances in the biz for their Cuir Nomades Collection. From Irish to African, there’s always an interesting interpretation.

As the beautifully designed bottle will tell you, the latest 2020 release, Memo Ocean Leather, takes its inspiration from the sperm whale. But just to clarify matters, it’s not an ambergris fragrance.

Aquatic Fragrances

There’s a burst of mandarin orange at first. It’s contrasted with the fresh aromatics of basil and the powder of violet. The aromatics continue in the form of clary sage absolute, but it’s the elemi that really stands out, with its terpenic qualities. The drydown features a leather accord that’s given earthy depth with notes of nutmeg and vetiver.

Of the three aquatic fragrances featured here, it’s the least literal interpretation, but intriguing nevertheless.

Aquatic Fragrances

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.