I love discovering brands that have something different to offer. Even better if they have a South African connection. Both of which Aqualis has in abundance. The London-based niche company was founded by Steyn Grobler in 2015 (he left the country at the age of 15).
BEHIND THE SCREENS: Steyn Grobler getting ready for his presentation at the Skins Cosmetics store in Johannesburg.
The 36-year-old has put his master’s in business economics and luxury perfumes experience – including head of production and business development at Boadicea The Victorious and sales director for Ex Nihilo – to effective use.
Steyn Grobler was in South Africa in February to promote Aqualis at the various Skins Cosmetics stores. We didn’t get a chance to chat properly then, so did the Zoom thing a few months later in which we covered everything from niche inspiration to his DIY ethos.
What fragrance are you wearing today?
I’m wearing a fragrance that I’m testing. Generally, when I’m wearing a fragrance it’s something that’s been made for me.
It’s got this blackcurrant and bergamot top note, then this incredibly beautiful amber, patchouli base. It’s not quite ready yet. It hasn’t got the depth and character it needs in the base. So I’m going to be briefing the perfumer later today to give him my feedback.
If your question is what kind of perfumes I like to wear… I’m a big lover of gourmands, fresh fragrances and heavy ambers. Hate fougères. Just can’t gel with them. Floral fragrances are something to be appreciated but, yeah, not something I would wear.
Over the course of my wearing life, I’ve worn everything from cK One and Boss in Motion, then upgraded to niche brands like Roja Dove and Byredo. So stuff across the spectrum.
IMAGE: Calvin Klein.
Are those tastes reflected in the perfumes for Aqualis?
Definitely! I must really love what I put forward. Particularly when it comes to the florals, which might not be something I wear personally. That’s the kind of thing I will give to other people to smell and to smell on them. If I love it on someone else, then I will move forward with it.
There’s nothing in my collection that I haven’t extensively tested and pondered over for an incredibly long time. It’s always very well measured and tested by the time it goes to market.
WORK OF ART: A shot of bergamot freshness in Aqualis Canvas Parfum leads the way to a bouquet of powdery prettiness (notes of freesia, iris, mimosa, rose), with wafts of white musk keeping it sensual and sophisticated. Created by Amandine Galliano.
How have you ensured Aqualis stands out in such a busy niche market?
There’s this super-luxury end where prices are over £400 pounds for a 50ml bottle. So I felt there was a gap for a premium product that’s not outrageously priced out of the market. The brand sits very neatly in its own little niche in the niche industry. Very few other people are doing 30% concentrations of the best quality ingredients at that price point.
Which niche brands inspire you?
I’m always looking at other brands. Thibaud Crivelli is doing a great job with Maison Crivelli. He’s got this great attention to detail from the blotters to creating a feeling around a fragrance. Which is what I try to do, as well, I just don’t have his budget [laughs].
At the high end, Henry Jacques is an incredibly company. One which I had the pleasure of working for briefly. The quality is unmatched, their own perfumers, sourcing all their own ingredients…
IMAGE: Henry Jacques.
Sergio Momo of Xerjoff works with brilliant perfumers, such beautiful design. Those three companies I look at, not to copy, but you feel inspired naturally by them.
How many people are in your company?
Me. And my girlfriend Chloe. That’s it. I manage all the production, finance, international retailers, new product development… basically, manage all the company. Chloe manages the Harrods account and the social media and communications. But we’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.
“We’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.” – Steyn Grobler
OLFACTORY IDEAL: A rush of fresh blood orange gives way to the fruity nuances of apricot, osmanthus, pink peppercorn and rose in Aqualis Utopia Parfum. Not your average screechingly sweet fruity-floral, hallelujah. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.
The Harrods deal is a huge coup. How did that come about?
Working with Ex Nihilo, I built up a direct relationship with them over a long time. It took three years for Harrods to accept the brand.
When you show big results over your career – for example, with Ex Nihilo and Boadicea – it gives them the confidence to launch the product. Huge investment also went into the actual presentation to them, which looked stunning.
And then there’s what you do there to grow it. It almost becomes a HR exercise. What sales staff do you employ, how do you strategise, but that’s also the fun part.
IMAGE: Aqualis.
What’s been your hardest (and most valuable) business lesson so far?
[Laughs] There’s a whole graveyard of lessons. No, the biggest thing is don’t burn bridges and work with people in the long term. As a younger guy and being South African, I might have been too stern and forward with my words and thinking, so I’ve learned to be very collaborative with people.
BIRTHDAY BLOOMS: Inspired by the semi-desert region in South Africa which explodes with blooming wild flowers in July and August, Aqualis Namaqualand Parfum is big on the florals in a rather lovely way. Jasmine sambac, tuberose and ylang-ylang are all given their place in the African sun. Created by Florian Gallo.
Talking about your South African background, your heritage is proving to be a rich source of material. Was that intentional, or did it kind of happen along the way?
Each of them means something to me. Namaqualand blooms round about the time of my birthday. Kalahari is where my mum is from. Brenton is where my parents live now. Kruger [the president of the Transvaal in the 19th century] was my great, great grandfather. I didn’t set out wanting to make a South African brand, but these are such inspiring places.
GOLD STANDARD: A double dose of the queen of florals in the form of rose oil and rose absolute (both from Turkey) is complemented by the soft leathery tones of saffron and papyrus in Aqualis Kruger Parfum. Cosy and chic. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.
How do you brief your perfumers?
It’s quite different every time, but there are certain things that are consistent throughout my briefs: the highest concentration, no budgetary constraints on raw materials, which the perfumers love. It’s also important for them to have artistic freedom.
The briefs include what kind of person I envisage wearing it and what’s on the market already. They can’t be copies. I have this library [of references] in my head. You need a lot of knowledge about what’s going on in the industry.
IMAGE: Aqualis.
You mentioned Egoli when you were here in February. Tell us about that.
Egoli [the Zulu word for Johannesburg] is the place of gold and oud is liquid gold. I really wanted to use the notion of Johannesburg as a city built entirely on gold and now it’s a huge metropolis with Pretoria around it. And of course, I grew up around there.
It’s a unique take on oud in a parfum concentration, created by Chris Maurice who also did a lot of the Xerjoff fragrances. Unlike a lot of the big perfume conglomerates, he has a regular supply of the best oud in Laos.
IMAGE: Aqualis.
“I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used.” – Steyn Grobler
I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used. It’s stunning, with acidity, soft freshness from the bergamot note and this animalic musk-civet note.
REAL DEAL: Chris Maurice collaborated with Steyn Grobler to create Aqualis Egoli Parfum.
A brand is always a work in progress. What do you want to improve on Aqualis?
I started off with 50ml bottles, the concept that the strongest poisons come in the tiniest bottles, but there’s huge demand for 100ml bottles, so I’m working with an award-winning architect to create a shape for the 100ml. It will be sculptural.
IMAGE: Aqualis.
Now that I’m scaling the brand, we’re also working hard to come to solutions that are sustainable and luxurious and exclusive at the same time. For instance, the silk and foam inside the box are not sustainable and we can’t pump stuff out that gets thrown away.
IMAGE: Aqualis.
A lot of brands go through this journey. You look at Byredo and Roja Parfums, which have changed so much over the years, and you have this confidence, it’s fine to change it.
Running a perfume business takes a lot of cash. If I can ask the rude question, how have you done it?
Begged, borrowed and stolen [laughs]. I funded everything myself is the simple answer. I’ve been in high positions in companies. A lot of friends bought a house and I invested in a company. I love high risk [laughs again]. But then the company has grown organically in terms of its cash-flow, so whatever we’ve done, we’re not struggling to shift stock.
“Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself.” – Steyn Grobler
Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself. That’s also very much the South African way.
Aqualis fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.