Is there anything sexier than leather fragrances with their sensual and animalic vibe? The idea of wearing a second olfactory skin is both comforting and exotic at the same time.
Leather fragrances have a long history in perfumery and were often the result of attempts to mask the overpowering smell of real animal hides due to the tanning process, according to Fragrantica.
Modern interpretations of leather run the gamut from the hard and obvious to the more refined and subtle. As a note, leather actually doesn’t exist naturally. It’s therefore created through a combination of synthetics and/or natural ingredients, in particular birch tar.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
What are your favourite leather fragrances?
VILHELM PARFUMERIE MORNING CHESS EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)
Notes: Bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.
Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance with green overtones. This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house opens with the freshness of bergamot.
It then goes in a green, semi-bitter direction with the addition of a large shot of resinous galbanum. While this note dominates the scent, there’s no missing the masculine-ish leather note, which lingers in the background throughout. The drydown is deep and earthy, thanks to the patchouli note.
The sharpness of this EDP will not appeal to everyone, so, as always, I recommend that you try it before you buy it.
CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM (MATHILDE LAURENT)
Key notes: Bitter orange, cardamom, spices, cumin, cedar, leather, amberwood, benzoin, tolu balsam, vetiver.
Wear it if you want: A classic leather fragrance with a spicy twist. Launched in 2018 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the classic Cartier Déclaration EDT, the parfum iteration shares some of the characteristics of the original, in particular the bitter orange and cardamom notes.
But like any good flanker, it’s a standout release in its own right. Where the original was fresh and spicy, the parfum goes in a warmer direction, with the addition of cumin. Rich, dark and full of depth, it’s complemented by a woody base that includes notes of cedar, amberwood and vetiver. Benzoin gives it a tinge of sexy smokiness.
Without a doubt, it’s one of the best designer leather fragrances on the market. I wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.
TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP
Key notes: Clary sage, lavender, bitter almond, vanilla, leather, orris, tonka bean, leather, cashmeran, amber, white woods.
Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that’s more than just hype. Mr Ford proved once again his mastery of marketing when this provocatively named fragrance was released in 2017. However, in the process, the shock value overshadowed what is a rather appealing leather scent.
From the brand’s upmarket Private Blend Collection, this oriental opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with lavender in support. The leather note that follows is paired with bitter almond oil, giving it a warm effect. Vanilla adds a hint of sweetness. That vibe continues through to the base, featuring tonka bean, cashmeran and white woods.
It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.
ALAIA ALAIA EDP (MARIE SALAMAGNE)
Key notes: Mountain air, pink pepper, peony, freesia, rose, white musk, leather, violet.
Wear it if you want: An impeccably smooth leather fragrance. There’s a good reason why this debut fragrance from the Paris-based luxury fashion brand was awarded the top five stars in the most recent edition of the prestigious Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
It’s not an obvious leather fragrance. A contrast between cool and warm notes, the Tunisian-born designer wanted it to feel like a second skin. And that’s exactly what the perfumer achieved with it.
The fresh and airy opening progresses to a floral heart with nuances of peony, freesia and rose, settling on a base of leather and white musk.
Officially marketed at women, it’s perfectly unisex, so don’t let that put you off seeking out this example of superb quality.
WIDIAN LONDON EDP* (JORDI FERNANDEZ)
Key notes: Oud, cypress, violet, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, leather, dry amber, musk, vanilla.
Wear it if you want: A sweet leather fragrance. The gorgeous blue and gold bottle will be the first thing to grab your attention about this 2018 release from the Abu-Dhabi-based niche fragrance company that blends the best of Middle East and Western perfume traditions.
The juice is equally stylish. From the brand’s Sapphire Collection, it opens with the distinctive scent of oud. It’s a slightly sweet and luxurious treatment, which is accentuated by a big raspberry note. Violet adds an element of delicate powderiness.
The leather aspect is present throughout and gives this warm EDP a soft and smooth character. It’s supported by notes of amber, vanilla and musk.
While I don’t get the London inspiration as such, this is a beautifully crafted fragrance from start to finish.
BYREDO BIBLIOTHEQUE EDP*
Key notes: Peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla.
Wear it if you want: To feel like you’re in a world of old books. As its name suggests, this perfume (it was originally the Swedish niche fragrance company’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.
It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity territory with sweet (but not too sweet) fruity notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring a peony note. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect. The leather base note completes the picture with notes of patchouli and vanilla adding to the intimate feel.
FLORIS MAHON LEATHER EDP*
Key notes: Citruses, jasmine, vetiver, iris, saffron, leather, amber, French labdanum, musk, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood.
Wear it if you want: An old-school leather fragrance with a sense of history. This 2011 release is quintessential gentleman stuff. It’s inspired by Mahón, the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca, the birthplace of the founder of this British heritage brand, Juan Famenias Floris, which can trace its roots all the way back to 1730.
It reveals its charms from the opening jasmine note featuring animalic properties. A big dose of iris adds powderiness to the composition, while saffron infuses it with a spicy leatheriness. The creamy leather note is perfectly paired with the woody aspects of sandalwood and vetiver, and warm tonka bean.
MEMO RUSSIAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENROR MASSENET)
Key notes: Oil of basil, fougère accord, oil of cedar leaf, oil of Siberian pine needle, oil of coriander seed, heart of lavandin, mint, oil of rosemary, oil of nutmeg, oil of guaiac, oil of patchouli, tonka bean absolute, leather accord, oil of clary sage, cypress absolute.
Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that will pique your wanderlust. Founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy, Memo is a Paris-based niche fragrance house that produces top-notch scents inspired by the founders’ travel memories. Their leather fragrance collection, Cuir Nomades, includes highly recommended variations such as African, Irish, French and Italian.
The intriguing Russian Leather takes its cue from a Siberian forest. It starts its journey in fougère mode with a fern note. Siberian pine needle focuses the olfactory illusion, with notes of lavender, rosemary and mint providing herbal and green facets.
When the leather note comes through its gentle and soothing and surrounded by woody notes of cypress and patchouli.
This EDP has a fresh, clean, peppery vibe with appealing contrasts.
*These leather fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.