You want something refreshing, elegant and often brilliantly priced. I’ve got the perfect scent solutions for you: the best eau de colognes.
If parfum is the highest concentration, then eau de colognes are at the opposite end of the spectrum with the lowest amount of oils at 2 to 4%. They’re mostly about freshness and tend not to last more than a few hours. With their classic, timeless, elegant vibe, who could say no to that?
“Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time.”
Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time. Eau de colognes are the ideal antidote to global warming heat and as some of my examples here illustrate, they can be remarkably cheap, so top up when needed.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
L.T. PIVER A LA REINE DES FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE (MICHEL ADAM)
The French company has the distinction of launching the first aldehydic fragrance, L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or, in 1889, quite some time before the most famous example in the genre, Chanel No 5.
Founded in 1774, it’s also one of the oldest houses of French perfumery, although only perfume-geeks are aware of its existence and yours truly can’t find a functional website to learn more about it. According to niche retailer Jovoy, it seems A la Reine des Fleurs takes its name from the perfume store founded by Michel Adam in Paris in 1774.
The freshness of citrus notes of lemon, orange and bergamot leads the way to the aromatics of lavender and rosemary. Thyme gives it a touch of herbal depth and I love how the spicy note of cloves – warm, woody, earthy, softly sweet – lingers in the background.
It’s sold in a splash cologne format and bottles as large as 423ml for the equivalent of $40. You read right. That’s not a typo.
4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)
From the relative obscurity of L.T. Piver A la Reine des Fleurs to one many of us will recognise from the fragrance repertoire of our parents. Apparently still made according to a secret recipe from 1792 (yes, it’s been around that long), it’s earned its iconic reputation for good reason.
Its attraction is evident from the start with pronounced notes of orange, bergamot and neroli proclaiming, “You’re onto something special.” Lavender and rosemary contribute aromatic appeal to this blend that’s more than a fragrance – it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic.
The 4711 Remix range – Urban Summer (2020), Festival Vibes (2021), Exotic Paradise (2022), Sparkling Island (2023) – is well worth checking out if you want a more youthful spin on the theme.
DETAILLE CHÉRUBIN EAU DE COLOGNE
That’s what friends are for…
I’m not singing the Dionne Warwick and co hit from the 1980s. I’m thanking my good mate Andre (and his sister Renée who regularly buys him this one whenever he runs out of it) for introducing me to this relatively unknown gem. It’s from the Paris-based house that’s been around since 1905 (apparently named after the countess of Presle’s husband, Edouard Detaille) and now owned by Louis Pallier.
There’s the requisite freshness from bergamot, lemon, orange blossom and rose, but what really stands out for me is the spicy muskiness and powdery heliotropin in the drydown.
Based on this one, I’m keen to try Detaille Fleur EDC and Detaille Paradisii EDC. Next time I’m in Paris…
BIEN–ÊTRE L’ORIGINAL LAVANDE DE PROVENCE EAU DE COLOGNE
On my recent visit to Mauritius, I picked up a bottle of this stuff for three reasons:
+ It’s the very definition of cheap ’n cheerful.
+ It reminds me of my mother.
+ This 1965 release delivers lavender in camphor-ish style with herbal support from rosemary. Although on the rough and ready side, it’s a French pharmacy staple.
If splash cologne is not your style, simply decant the contents of the 250ml or 500ml into a smaller spray bottle for easier application. Also look out for Bien-Être L’Original Naturelle EDC, Bien-Être L’Original Rose EDC and Bien-Être L’Original Fraîche EDC.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE
More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia still has much to offer. A lot of that has to do with the way this scent conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.
It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a woody base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.
An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR SUR L’HERBE EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
In all the hype (and there’s plenty of it nowadays), it’s easy to forget the original niche pioneer L’Artisan Parfumeur founded by Jean Laporte, which paved the way for many others from the 1970s onwards. The Paris-based house added more eau de colognes to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results.
Taking its name from the Manet masterpiece, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (the one that caused a scandal in the 1860s with its depiction of a naked woman picnicking with two fully clothed gents), there’s nothing shocking about this EDC.
Instead, its inspiration comes through in an impressionistic style with brightly green notes of bergamot and neroli. Wafts of musk give it clean sensuality.
Also look out for L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Baies EDC, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 9 EDC and L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Fleurs EDC.
BERDOUES CITRON CAVIAR EAU DE COLOGNE
The Grasse-based family-owned company’s range of EDCs always hit the spot (I also recommend Berdoues Figue Blanche EDC and Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC).
A 2021 release, Citron Caviar opens with the refreshing, almost lemon-y tones of verbena, with citric touches of bergamot in the background. It goes in a floral direction with a softly sweet take on orange blossom given an aquatic treatment. The vetiver-musk drydown completes what seems an effortless uplifter.
Clean, crisp and oh so chic.
HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)
I started wearing this 2022 addition to the French luxury brand’s quality-assured Colognes Collection in winter because I’m not particularly seasonal when it comes to fragrances but must admit it pops in all sorts of wonderful ways in the heat.
Opening with the sparkling citric freshness of Calabrian bergamot, it doesn’t take long for the star of the show, green basil, to make its entrance (FYI: the name of the scent references purple basil, the original inspiration for in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, but that variety can’t be distilled). Yes, it’s fresh and herbal, but Nagel shows its aromatic and subtly spicy facets too, supported by the greenery of geranium. Light touches of patchouli and spice conclude this beauty with musky warmth.
If you tell me I smell like a Mediterranean salad, I’ll take that as a compliment, thank you.
*Available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
