I was recently invited to eat a meal at Arbour Café, a French-style cafe in Birdhaven, a wealthy Johannesburg suburb. I am usually weary of French-inspired restaurants, as all too often they lapse into tweeness and clichés. Non, merci beaucoup! However, in the name of open-mindedness, I put my misgivings aside and accepted the kind invitation. And besides I needed an outing to wear my Terre d’Hermes Parfum.
I arrived for my Arbour Café rendezvous for an early-ish brunch. While the street-facing side of the restaurant has its attractions, I chose to eat in the courtyard for a bit of air, sun and people-watching.
Arbour Café specialises in galettes (savoury French buckwheat pancakes) and crêpes (thinner pancakes usually served with sweeter fillings). There are plenty of other options on the menu for breakfast, dinner and lunch, including omelettes, salads, sandwiches and desserts.
TRES BIEN: Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg.
For my main meal, I chose the Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg. Très bien! And the Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes for dessert. C’est délicieux! Both were served by friendly and attentive staff in an amiable and comfortable environment that’s thankfully not precious at all.
C’EST DELICIEUX: Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes.
ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM
And what of my fragrance companion, Terre d’Hermes Parfum? A perfect choice, if I may so myself. Whenever I wear this fragrance I ask myself (rhetorically), “Has bitter orange ever opened a fragrance so magnificently?”
Yet there’s so more to Terre d’Hermes Parfum than its trademark citrus introduction. Its flint note adds an unusual and earthy mineral aspect, which evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Not for nothing is Terre d’Hermes Parfum regarded as one of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterpieces.
While I was finishing my very pleasant meal in Arbour Café’s relaxing courtyard, a fellow diner walked by and swooned: “Oh! That must be Terre d’Hermes. I would recognize it anywhere.”
Arbour Café, corner Wrenrose Avenue and St Andrews Street, Birdhaven, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 788 4111. Email: info@arbourcafe.co.za. http://arbourcafe.co.za/
I recently spent almost a week in a clinic for an ongoing condition (more details in a future post). As I don’t travel light (too many “what ifs”), this won’t be one of those sensible “packing for clinic” posts. I will leave those to the packing experts. But I did have to think about the fragrance and grooming essentials for my stay. So, for me, the edited selection below was quite a feat.
The Bluebeards Revenge Bodywash
I last tried this British brand about five years ago. What stood out for me then was that its cheeky lad sense of humour is matched by the quality of its products. This bodywash cleans with a rich lather and the barbershop-ish scent adds to its appeal. R250.00 for 250ml, www.edgeformen.co.za and www.sorbetman.co.za
Diptyque Philosykos EDT
I knew I was going to be spending more time indoors than out. What fragrance would provide some olfactory escape? Diptyque Philosykos EDT, the magnificent fig fragrance created by Olivia Giocobetti, for sure. From the opening notes of fig leaf and fig, to the base of cedar, wood and fig tree notes (with hints of coconut and green notes in between), this smells like a Greek sabbatical to me.
Theravine Men Active Daily Face Wash
It’s never too early for wine, especially in the form of Theravine Men Active Daily Face Wash, which contains wine extract for the skin. Theravine is a South African brand that’s packed with grape by-products (for example, grapeseed extract, white wine extract, grapeseed oil, red grape skin extract and crushed grapeseeds), antioxidants and peptides. I also used this gentle face wash as a shampoo while away. It earns points for not containing alcohol, petrochemicals, silicones, artificial colourants, parabens and mineral oils. R272.00 for 250ml, www.theravine.co.za
Beaucience for men Anti-Ageing Moisturising Cream
Containing organic white willow bark extract, organic green tea, organic marula oil and Proteasyl PW (an active peptide), this cream protects against ageing while moisturising the skin. Like all Beaucience For Men products, it’s paraben- and cruelty-free. R159.99 for 75ml, www.beaucience.co.za/beaucience-for-men
The Bluebeards Revenge Shaving Cream
Shaving is a schlep for me, so anything that makes this necessary evil easier gets my vote. A little goes a long way with The Bluebeards Revenge Shaving Cream. It lathers up to a thick and creamy consistency to minimise the usual injuries and moisturises the skin while at it. R350 for 100ml, www.edgeformen.co.za and www.sorbetman.co.za
Theravine Men Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream
Tripeptide-10, potassium, wine extract, glucose and aloe ferox leaf extract are just some of the ingredients in this night cream. Light and easily absorbed, I think of it as a nightcap for the skin. R390 for 50ml, www.theravine.co.za
In a perfume context, what could bring me more joy than wearing one of my all-time favourite fragrances, Lalique Encre Noire? Well, the thrill of interviewing the creator of that classic fragrance would come a darn close second. Who am I talking about? Master perfumer Nathalie Lorson, of course.
With a bit of crafty detective work, I managed to contact Nathalie Lorson by email. Very graciously and in between her numerous projects, she agreed to answer my questions by email.
VERITABLE VETIVER: Launched in 2006, Lalique Encre Noire EDT has become a classic vetiver fragrance. It’s earthy, dark and dirty in all the right ways.
Please see below her answers. But first a quick-quick bio. Nathalie Lorson was born in Grasse, the heartland of perfumery. When she completed her perfume studies at Roure Perfumery School (now Givaudan), she worked for International Flavours & Fragrances. For the past 18 years, she has worked for Firmenich. With a career spanning more than 35 years, Nathalie Lorson has been a prolific perfumer, working across all genres, from designer and niche to celebrity fragrances.
VEHICLE OF EXPRESSION: Whenever people turn up their noses at automotive fragrances, I point them in the direction of Nathalie Lorson’s quality work for Bentley fragrances.
I won’t bore you with a long list of her 170+ creations (you can find that on Fragrantica). But this round-up of highlights will give you a good idea of her accomplishments and versatility. Dita Von Teese EDP. Dolce & Gabbana Sicily EDP. Giorgio Armani Cuir Noir EDP. Givenchy Gentleman EDT and EDP. Jil Sander Sensations EDT. Le Labo Poivre 23 London EDP. Mandarina Duck Pure Black EDT. Versace Versus Woman EDT. Yves Saint Laurent Opium and its various flankers. Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him!
VERSATILE: Nathalie Lorson has achieved success across all genres, including designer fragrances such as Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT.
Nathalie Lorson has also bagged several awards along the way. These include Perfumer of the Year in Italy and France (2015). This month (May 2018), she garnered the Best Fragrance of Artistic Perfumery award for Altaia Tuberose in Blue EDP by the Accademia del Profumo.
“Designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. Even today I feel like I am still learning.”
Why did you want to become a perfumer?
I spent my childhood in Grasse, where my father was working as a chemist in the fragrance industry [at Roure]. Naturally I wanted to follow my father’s path and started my perfumery studies in Grasse.
PORTRAITS OF NATHALIE LORSON COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.
What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?
Like a pianist playing his scales, I memorised during my studies a lot of scents and learned how to associate them together. Then, I focused on the aesthetic aspect of the composition, trying to find the best harmony between all ingredients, creating the most beautiful perfume. What stayed very fresh in my mind is that designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. It is an everyday learning. Even today I feel like I am still learning.
Is perfumery an art or a science for you?
As a perfumer, my main challenge lies in the art of translating emotions into addictions and to imagine the best harmony between the fragrance and the person who will wear it. More than a science, by mixing art and technique, perfumery is recognised as craftsmanship. I like to compare myself to a gold digger, seeking nuggets. We find lots of dust, but very few nuggets.
What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?
My first creation in fine fragrance was a fresh floral perfume, Romeo for Romeo Gigli, in the late 80s.
How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?
Discussions with inspiring people are critical – they bring to life the ideas behind the scent. My inspiration comes from everything around me: new raw materials, a surprising combination of new scents, a colour. Most importantly, the brand universe will influence the final shape of the fragrance. Always behind the scenes, I translate the brand history into an olfactory tale. Personally, I like to work with many different types of ingredients and explore them beyond their limits. I like the dynamism of switching from one project to another and juggling different ideas. I like to explore and discover.
One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?
Knowing that one of my creations became someone’s favourite scent is my greatest reward. The beautiful story of Lalique Encre Noire was written with the purest vetiver, one of my favourite raw materials. Encre Noire was subtly twisted into a modern woody blend, enhancing its noble character. Today it remains contemporary, yet timeless.
Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?
Of course, as I always remain curious about how my creations are perceived by experts, including the voice of the consumer. Critics also nourish my future works.
Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?
I do not have such plans at the moment. I feel fulfilled with all the exciting projects I am working on.
GOOD SPORT: Nathalie Lorson also created the superb Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT, pictured here, and Lalique Encre Noire à L’Extrême EDP.
I’ve known for a long time about the health and beauty benefits of products enriched with Dead Sea minerals. But, apart from the odd mud face mask, I haven’t properly tried any products that feature them. So when the PR for Mineraline sent me some products to try, I was keen to see if the claims about these minerals are fact or hype.
“These minerals are particularly good at purifying, exfoliating and regenerating the skin.”
Mineraline is an Israeli brand and all of their products feature Dead Sea minerals. The Dead Sea is renowned for its high concentrations of minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sulphur, bromide, iodine, sodium, zinc and potassium. These minerals are particularly good at purifying, exfoliating and regenerating the skin.
There are several Mineraline ranges, including Face Care Exfoliate, Purify, Hydrate, Rebalance, Rejuvenate, Aloe Vera, Anti-Aging and Acne Solutions. All their products are paraben-, mineral oil- and cruelty-free. I got to try out the products below, all available exclusively at Dis-Chem pharmacies nationwide. Overall, I was impressed by how well they got on with the job and at a very reasonable price, too.
Mineraline Purify Gentle Foaming Face Cleanser
Featuring a combo of Dead Sea minerals, witch hazel, aloe vera and chamomile, this face cleanser for all skin types purifies, soothes and moisturises. It’s sodium laureth sulphate free, but still lathers up pronto. R185 for 150ml
Mineraline Hydrate Super Hydrating Day Cream
Big points for this day cream, as it’s super easily absorbed. It hydrates and heals skin with a mix of ingredients that includes Dead Dea minerals, shea butter, vitamin E and rosemary leaf extract. R195.00 for 50ml
Mineraline Time It! Serum
This serum from Mineraline’s anti-ageing line reduces wrinkle depth and tones, firms and moisturises the skin. Ingredients include Dead Sea minerals and Uniprosyn PS-18 Uniprotect PT-3. Quick translation: The latter are active agents that stimulate the production of specific skin barrier proteins. R245 for 50ml
Mineraline Time It! Night Cream
Containing Dead Sea minerals and Uniprosyn PS-18 Uniprotect PT-3, it targets lines on the face and the neck. Like all good anti-ageing products to be used at night, it works while you sleep. R245 for 50ml
The fragrance industry is pretty shameless when it comes to hype and hubris. Although I try not to indulge in the worst of it, sometimes I am guilty of it, too. But with the recent release of Cartier Declaration Parfum, I can say with absolute certainty that Cartier Declaration EDT is a true modern classic. A classic in the sense that it added something very distinctive and special to perfumery at the time of its launch and that its influence is still felt to this day.
Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Cartier Declaration EDT was launched in 1998. With its fresh, spicy, citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this fragrance defies easy classification. And that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. Although officially a men’s fragrance, it’s one to be worn and enjoyed by women too.
Since 1998, several flankers have been added to the Cartier Declaration range. Created by in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, Cartier Declaration Parfum has been launched to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this classic fragrance.
“It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks.”
SO WHAT DOES CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM SMELL LIKE?
On first application, but only very briefly, I get the freshness (bitter orange note) of the original Cartier Declaration. And then there are powerful and seductive hits of leather and spice (cardamom, cumin notes). The base features standout notes of wood (cedar, amberwood) and vetiver. If this all sounds terrifically deep and smoky, that’s because it is.
LEATHER REPORT: If I am going to do some product placement on my blog, then it better be something super. I took these pics of Cartier Declaration Parfum in the studio of the very talented leather craftsman Matthias Matthee. This work in progress is a customised backpack made from vintage black leather and with blanket stitching. Check him out on Instagram.
If I had to compare the two, I would say that the original has more of a sparkling quality, whereas Cartier Declaration Parfum goes into darker and denser territory. Cartier Declaration Parfum is a fitting tribute to the original, while still standing on its own merits.
Cartier Declaration Parfum, R1 230 for 50ml and R1 785 for 100ml.
I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY. Mostly, I get to experience this simple equation. However, there are certain situations that are guaranteed to rile me. Here are four of my top fragrance shopping irritations.
“I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY.”
What are your fragrance shopping irritations?
So many choices, but no testers to be seen, let alone smelt
A key part of the fragrance shopping journey is trying out new possibilities. This becomes impossible when there are no testers. A well-known (and struggling) clothing retailer in my local shopping centre has several walls’ worth of fragrances, but not a single tester. This has been the situation since the beginning of the year, when most of the testers were emptied in the Christmas shopping rush. Grrrrr!
A TESTING SITUATION: A good supply of testers is essential.
Being watched like I am a shoplifter
I know shoplifting is rife in South Africa, but there’s a fine line between discrete surveillance and downright stalking. I do a lot of my fragrance browsing before or after gym. Apart from a good fragrance, I’m very dress down for gym, which could explain some of the unwanted attention I receive. However, one of the basic tenets of making a sale is don’t judge a customer by what they wear.
SHOPLIFTER, MOI? This is as dressed up as I get when I am in gym-gear browsing mode.
Attention!
Between the extremes of too much, overly eager, intrusive attention and (I must be wearing my Harry Potter invisible cloak) non-existent attention lies a happy medium of knowing how to read your customer. While a fair amount of customer service can be taught, some things are intuitive.
Not knowing your merchandise
I don’t expect sales assistants to know if and when a particular fragrance has been reformulated (unless if I am being VERY demanding due to low sugar levels). But not knowing the basics of the product they are selling (for example, family, accords and brief brand history) is one of the big fragrance shopping irritations for me. Sharing your knowledge of and passion for the world of fragrance is sure to impress me.
After an initially slow start to the year, the fragrance counters are starting to get busy with all sorts of new arrivals. We’ve got a pretty mixed bag here, with John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Elie Saab In White, Coach Floral EDP reviews. Are they worth getting out of bed for?
John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)
I am a big fan of Flores-Roux’s work for John Varvatos fragrances. There’s always an impressively long list of notes for John Varvatos fragrances and Artisan Pure is no different. Inspired by the lush Xalapa region of Mexico, it opens with a big punch of sunny citrus notes. Then there’s a herbal heart (with a standout Italian orris note) and woody base. It’s deliciously crisp summer freshness in a beautifully designed bottle. R1 225 for 75ml and R1 495 for 125ml.
Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)
Pretty bottle. Pretty fragrance. While Coach Floral EDP isn’t going to be getting any awards for originality, it’s a very accessible and pleasant fragrance. Heart notes include tea rose, jasmine sambac and gardenia. R795 for 30ml, R1 190 for 50ml and R1 490 for 90ml.
Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)
I ain’t no blushing bride, but that doesn’t stop me from liking this wedding-inspired fruity-floral-chypre fragrance. It has a lovely creamy quality throughout, with notes that include mandarin essence, blackcurrant bud, jasmine sambac, orange blossom absolute, vanilla and ylang-ylang. R890 for 30ml, R1 410 for 50ml and R1 900 for 90ml.
Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)
Okay, so strictly speaking this is not a new fragrance (Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! was originally launched in 2016). But this limited-edition collaboration with NYC tattoo artist Virginia Elwood is a good reminder why Zadig & Voltaire fragrances are worth sniffing out. Featuring notes of incense, vanilla, pepper and sandalwood, it’s an easy-going and very appealing take on the smoky, woody theme. R475 for 20ml and R1 085 for 100ml.
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)
Previous fragrances in the L’Eau d’Issey Pure range have interpreted a drop of dew (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDP) and delicate petals (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT). The latest, Nectar de Parfum, is more floral in character. It ventures into sweet territory, with initial stand-out notes of pear, honey and rose. Hallelujah, it’s not the cloying variety and the aquatic element will be very familiar to Issey Miyake fragrance fans. R925 for 30ml, R1 430 for 50ml and R1 820 for 90ml.
When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Recently one of the bloggers I follow on Instagram shared how it became her wedding fragrance and how much she was looking forward to trying the new Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense.
It’s easy to see why Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is so popular. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli. Official listed notes of this fragrance include: orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom and bergamot (top). Mimosa, jasmine, Turkish rose and ylang-ylang (middle). Tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver and white musk (base).
“This floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.”
SO WHAT DOES CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE SMELL LIKE?
A Chanel fragrance launch (whether a new pillar or flanker) is always a bit of an event. And Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP Intense is no exception, with the powerful Chanel marketing machine buzzing away since its launch at the beginning of March 2018.
Ok, so first of all let’s make it clear that Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense is not a radical reworking of the original. It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original. But Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been heightened with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean at the fore. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent, with a good balance of the fresh and the sensual.
Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer and (excuse my basic French) le fils de Jacques Polge, has created a worthy successor to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP.
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, R1 745 for 50ml and R2 475 for 100ml.
Maybe it’s the luxurious elegance it evokes. And I could do with a lot of that when I am blogging in my not-so-glamorous PJs. Maybe it’s because the two colours work so well together. Whatever it is, I am giving this Easter weekend the black and gold treatment. These are some of the things I will be indulging in.
Valentino Uomo Noir Absolu EDP
The latest Valentino Uomo flanker is built around four notes: cinnamon, pepper, sandalwood and incense. After the amplified leather and iris of Valentino Uomo Intense, this EDP is all oriental woodiness. I get a slightly boozy opening, although nothing of the sort is listed. Then a very appealing smoky warmth kicks in. And the studded black and gold bottle is super tactile and sexy.
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum
It’s been a stressful few weeks and my face is showing it. Time for some serious skincare in the form of Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum. Each capsule is packed with ceramides, botanicals and a retinol derivative. Together, these ingredients boost moisture levels and skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Candy Crush
As it’s Easter, I am allowing myself to indulge in candy and chocolate guilt-free. The fact that they also help me to stay off the cigs is another reason to tuck in.
Artistic Inspiration
How beautiful are these etchings from the Folio edition of Ulysses. OK, so I haven’t read James Joyce’s notoriously difficult-to-read novel, but I am going to take some inspiration from Mimmo Paladino’s etchings. They were first published in a limited edition in 1994.
I am quite realistic about my artistic abilities – I struggle to sketch a stick man – but that’s not the point. If I allow myself to just get on with it, without the critical editor in charge, it’s always fun and even therapeutic.
Regular readers might remember that I was on a retinol mission towards the end of last year. I was starting to see good results with Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair and was eager to try the more potent version, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%.
RETINOL RECAP
I have been using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% for almost two months. But first a quick refresher on why retinol is such a big deal.
Retinol is known to be highly effective in combating fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and free radicals.
Retinol is potent stuff, but it loses much of its strength when exposed to light or air. So Dermalogica uses fancy-sounding micro-encapsulation technology to protect it.
ALL ABOUT RETINOL: A graphic representation of the Dermalogica retinol sphere. Image courtesy of Dermalogica.
USING DERMALOGICA OVERNIGHT RETINOL REPAIR 1%
As retinol can cause a bit of a reaction, it’s recommended to go easy when first using it. So while I wanted even more noticeable results, I also decided to be sensible and use the Buffer Cream that comes with it. So for the first week, to allow my skin to adjust, I diluted the Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% with the Buffer Cream. I then used the Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% by itself.
Retinol can also can the cause the skin to be sensitive to sun exposure. So I have been extra vigilant about applying sun protection and avoiding full-on sun.
RETINOL RESULTS
The condition of my skin has definitely improved over the last few weeks. While I still look 40-something, I like to think am looking less like a frazzled 40-something. It’s also been good to get compliments about my skin looking more “vital” and “alive”.
