Regular readers might remember that I was on a retinol mission towards the end of last year. I was starting to see good results with Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair and was eager to try the more potent version, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1%.
RETINOL RECAP
I have been using Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% for almost two months. But first a quick refresher on why retinol is such a big deal.
Retinol is known to be highly effective in combating fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and free radicals.
Retinol is potent stuff, but it loses much of its strength when exposed to light or air. So Dermalogica uses fancy-sounding micro-encapsulation technology to protect it.
ALL ABOUT RETINOL: A graphic representation of the Dermalogica retinol sphere. Image courtesy of Dermalogica.
USING DERMALOGICA OVERNIGHT RETINOL REPAIR 1%
As retinol can cause a bit of a reaction, it’s recommended to go easy when first using it. So while I wanted even more noticeable results, I also decided to be sensible and use the Buffer Cream that comes with it. So for the first week, to allow my skin to adjust, I diluted the Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% with the Buffer Cream. I then used the Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% by itself.
Retinol can also can the cause the skin to be sensitive to sun exposure. So I have been extra vigilant about applying sun protection and avoiding full-on sun.
RETINOL RESULTS
The condition of my skin has definitely improved over the last few weeks. While I still look 40-something, I like to think am looking less like a frazzled 40-something. It’s also been good to get compliments about my skin looking more “vital” and “alive”.
One of the buzzwords I particularly dislike is “millennials”. It’s over used and comes with massive (and questionable) generalisations. So forgive me while I use the term to make a point how, like many others, the perfume industry is making a big play for the minds and moolah of millennials. Some of these attempts fall horribly and/or laughably flat because either they try too hard to speak to younger consumers or fail to offer them anything new or exciting. I am happy to report, though, that Twilly d’Hermès EDP, launched in 2017, gets it right in many ways.
GINGERLY GRACE
Hermes’s in-house perfumer, the masterful Christine Nagel, has created a modern scent for younger women that avoids the sugar overload so prevalent in many younger fragrances.
Twilly d’Hermès opens with a gorgeous ginger note (there’s also some citrus about there). Ginger notes can be quite in your face if not treated well, but this one is fresh and fragrant. The kind you’ll want to spray several times to experience again. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.
“This ginger note is fresh and fragrant. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.”
Tuberose is at the heart of the fragrance, not overpoweringly so – more a hint of it. Which makes a change from some of the heavy-hitting tuberoses on the market right now.
Twilly d’Hermès is all tied up (I had to use a scarf analogy somewhere) rather nicely with a creamy sandalwood note. Talking of scarves, the bottle is suitably playful and chic, with its bowler hat and Twilly scarf adornment.
Before I go, let me state that Twilly d’Hermès is too good to be confined to its target market of younger women. It’s certainly youthful, but it’s not girlie-girlie and twee. So I would highly recommend that older women and adventurous men sniff this one out.
Twilly d’Hermès EDP, R955 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 100 for 85ml.
The launch this week of the limited-edition 300ml of Bleu de Chanel EDP is as good a time as any to acknowledge why this woody-aromatic fragrance has become such a top seller for the French luxury fashion house.
Bleu de Chanel was originally launched as an EDT in 2010. Created by the esteemed Jacques Polge (Chanel’s then in-house perfumer), Bleu de Chanel became the new standard bearer for men’s designer fine fragrances. Several whiffs will tell you why. It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way – from the super-minimalist dark blue bottle to the juice.
“It’s sophisticated and elegant without trying too hard – in that very French, very Chanel way.”
FROM CHANEL BLEU EDT TO CHANEL BLEU EDP
In 2014, Polge gave Bleu de Chanel the EDP treatment. I won’t get into the endless EDP vs EDT debate here. Suffice to say, both are worthy of your attention and your preference no doubt will be very personal.
Both share a highly distinctive citrus-fresh opening, with grapefruit at the fore. The EDP has standout incense, vetiver, mint, cedar and amber notes. Super smooth, sensual and sexy, you’ll be hard pressed to find another fragrance that gets as many compliments as Bleu de Chanel EDP. It’s also remarkably versatile, from day to night and from casual-chic to more formal occasions.
The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you. I won’t mention any names, but Bleu de Chanel has been shamelessly cloned by competitors. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that.
“The problem with success is that everybody wants to copy you – or hate you.”
Perfume snobs will claim Bleu de Chanel EDP has become too popular for its own good. Au contraire! As if creating a quality perfume that brings pleasure and joy to many men and women – and yes, profits to Chanel – is not worthy of praise and recognition.
January tends to be a very slow month in perfume-land, with a lull in new launches. Probably a very good idea after the always-more-expensive-than-budgeted-for holidays. However, two months into 2018, I’ve got some newbie reviews for you.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP
For a while Gucci became known for its middling fragrances. The not bad, but not particularly earth-shatteringly good either variety. That all started to change in 2017 with the release of the leather-licious Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP and the white florals-rich Gucci Bloom EDP. You can read those reviews here: https://fragroom.com/2017/07/08/gucci-guilty-absolute-prada-luna-rossa-carbon-thierry-mugler-amen-kryptomint/ and https://fragroom.com/2017/11/29/female-floral-fragrances-for-men/. These stand-out fragrances, collaborations between Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas, made it clear that the Italian luxury brand was back in the fragrance game.
ABSOLUTE MASTERY: Alberto Morillas, the creator of Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme and Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme. Pic courtesy of Coty.
Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also an Alberto Morillas creation. Like its male counterpart, it takes some bold risks. It opens with an unmistakable blackberry note, luscious and intriguing. But it’s not just big on fruit. A Bulgarian rose develops in the background, adding to the richness, while also tempering the sweetness. Those familiar with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme might recognise the Goldenwood note, an extract of the nootka cypress which brings a dense woodiness to the proceedings. The patchouli base completes the sensuality.
While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men. Michele wanted an unconventional romantic fragrance and Morillas has more than delivered on the brief. Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme EDP, R1 005 for 30ml, R1 385 for 50ml and R1 825 for 90ml.
“While undeniably lavish, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is also very wearable, for both women and men.”
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him
It seems like I reviewed new Boss The Scent fragrances very recently. Such is the relentless cycle of modern perfumery. Establish the pillar and follow with a succession of flankers. The follow-up to Boss The Scent For Him Intense comes in a super-sexy flacon. The juice is surprisingly subtle for a male seduction scent. Maninka fruit, sourced from South Africa, is still at the heart of it, with ginger, orris concrete and patchouli notes in support. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him, R1 660 for 100ml.
Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her
If Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Him is curiously understated, the female version is positively on steroids. It opens with a big honeyed peach note that’s love-it-or-hate-it stuff. Osmanthus absolute, cistus absolute and roasted cocoa also feature in the mix. Talking of relentless cycles, Boss The Scent EDT For Her will be launched in April. I can’t keep up. Boss The Scent Parfum Edition For Her, R1 375 for 50ml.
Hugo Urban Journey EDT
The latest addition to the long-running Hugo franchise is all about urban adventure. The grey, textured flacon captures that perfectly. The juice itself, although not particularly urban, is fresh, accessible and pleasant, with notes of Himalayan whorl flower, black tea and guaiac wood. Although not officially listed, I get a big marine whiff from this EDT that will go down well with its target market. Hugo Urban Journey EDT, R845 for 75ml and R1 155 for 125ml.
Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP
Launched in 2017, the Bulgari Splendida line focuses on the most celebrated flowers in perfumery. So far we’ve had Bulgari Splendida Rose Rose EDP, Bulgari Splendida Iris d’Or EDP and Bulgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP. The latest, Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, was created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier (Pasha de Cartier, L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme Poeme, YSL M7).
There’s a green-ish opening to Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel, courtesy of mandarin and neroli essences. And then a big hit of Chinese magnolia comes through, with orange flower and jasmine absolute also noticeable. The sensual aspect is further enhanced by the base notes of patchouli, musk and vanilla.
“It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent.”
It all adds up to create a terrifically expensive- and luxurious-smelling scent (with a price tag to match). My only gripe is that like its namesake, this magnolia is all too brief on my skin. Bulgari Splendida Magnolia Sensuel EDP, R1 500 for 50ml and R2 115 for 100ml.
The area around the eye is the most delicate skin on the face. So no surprises that it’s one of the first to show the signs of neglect, good times/bad behaviour and ageing. It’s for this reason that it pays to invest in an eye product that does what it says. Which means expect to pay more if you want to see noticeable results. How do these three eye products measure up?
ELIZABETH ARDEN ADVANCED CERAMIDE CAPSULES DAILY YOUTH RESTORING EYE SERUM
What it does: If you’re familiar with Elizabeth Arden’s super-duper Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, these babies are the equivalent for the fight against ageing around the eye area. They boost the skin’s natural barrier, increase moisture and combat fine lines and wrinkles.
Ingredients: I will not bore you with the full list of ingredients. Suffice to say, each capsule contains a concentrated dose of potent and highly effective ingredients. These include: Enhanced Ceramide Lipid Complex to boost the skin’s natural barrier; moisture-boosting Botanical Complex Technology; and nourishing tsubaki (camellia) oil.
The verdict: Super-duper, of course! The more Elizabeth Arden products I use, the more I am impressed by the brand. These capsules are well worth looking at if you want the best of science and nature.
R655 for 60ml.
DERMALOGICA STRESS POSITIVE EYE LIFT
What it does: An eye treatment and masque in one, this product helps restore the skin’s protective barrier, reduces the appearance of puffiness and dark circles, and perks up the eye area.
Ingredients: Active ingredients include: wild indigo seed to combat under-eye circles; sea water extract and Arctic algae for puffiness; and bioactive diglucosyl gallic acid to energise the eye area.
The verdict: It comes with a cooling massage applicator, which feels great when you use it. This applicator can also be used to massage the eye area. I found that DIY massage unnecessarily fussy. Not to worry, the product works just as well without it.
R1 210 for 25ml.
CHANEL BLUE SERUM EYE
What it does: The newest addition to the Chanel Blue Serum range takes on puffiness and dirk circles, and smooths and firms the eye area.
Ingredients: It contains ingredients consumed in the world’s blue zones: Green coffee PFA from Costa Rican green coffee, renowned for its antioxidant properties; olive tree oleo-active from Sardinian olives, rich in anti-ageing molecules; and regenerative gum extract from Greek lentisk.
The verdict: Blue zones? Yip, I was also a bit flummoxed by that one. Basically, these are regions in the world where people live longer and better. While I can’t vouch for the veracity of that theory, I can tell you that Chanel Blue Serum Eye is easily absorbed and is one of the most elegant and efficient eye products around.
It’s always intriguing to watch a trend gather momentum over a few years, from when it seems fresh and new to everywhere-you-look ubiquity. I first took notice of activated charcoal about four years ago when it made its appearance in face washes and cleansers. And now I seem to be spotting it everywhere.
The chemistry of activated charcoal was probably taught in science at high school. But let’s just say, I was more focused on other things during those lessons.
Activated charcoal (also known as activated carbon) is not to be confused with regular charcoal or coal. It is produced by heating charcoal at a very high temperature. This changes its structure and surface area, resulting in its ability to adsorb dirt, impurities and toxins. Adsorption is the process by which molecules and particles adhere to a surface. Thanks to Wikipedia and an online dictionary or two for the info above. Are you still with me?
One of the best activated charcoal products I have tried so far is L’Oréal Men Expert Hydra Energetic Black Charcoal Wash. You can read my review on it here: https://fragroom.com/2017/08/11/loreal-men-expert/.
More recently I have been using the following activated charcoal products:
Hask Charcoal Purifying Shampoo and Hask charcoal Purifying Conditioner (R139.95 each for 355ml)
I horrified some readers and friends recently with my admission that I have used soap to wash what’s left of my hair. Well, I’ve continued to be a good boy since that confession and have been using these haircare products. Apart from being sulphate and paraben free, both these products cleanse and clarify without stripping the hair of life.
White Glo Deep Stain Remover Activated Charcoal Whitening Toothpaste (R54,95 for 100ml)
Up until recently, I have been a heavy smoker and coffee/tea drinker. The result? My pearly whites ain’t so white. I have tried several home-use teeth whitening products over the years, without much success. I was keen to see if this product made any difference. While my teeth still have a long way to glow, they are not looking as stained. PS: The black paste turns into a white foam when you start brushing, so don’t let that put you off it.
T-Zone Charcoal & Bamboo Deep Cleansing Face Scrub (R59,95 for 150ml)
A scrub is an important part of the cleansing process. But a product that’s harsh on the skin can do more harm than good, so best use a gentle exfoliant. This one does just that with activated charcoal to attract dirt and excess oil and bamboo particles to exfoliate.
People are often surprised to hear that automotive companies are also in the fragrance biz. When I talk about car fragrance brands I don’t mean car fresheners. They are something altogether different. I am talking about the likes of Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and Bentley, all of which have released fragrances that might surprise you with their quality and value for money. For this post, I am going to focus on Jaguar fragrances, as they have been in the car fragrance biz longer than most.
You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter). My eyes glaze over at the best of times when men speak about their wheels.
“You don’t have to be a petrol-head to appreciate Jaguar fragrances (or any other car fragrance brands for that matter).”
It all started with Jaguar for Men EDT (R549 for 100ml) for the British luxury car manufacturer. Launched in 1988, this EDT was created by none other than master perfumer Thierry Wasser (now Guerlain’s in-house perfumer). It’s an old-school treat with a herbal and soapy character after the citrus opening has subsided. The good news is that it celebrates its 30th year on the market in 2018. It’s also ridiculously cheap – roughly half the price of a designer fragrance.
And what about other Jaguar fragrances worth sniffing out? Here goes…
Jaguar For Men Evolution EDT
Yes, it’s not as distinctive as its predecessor Jaguar for Men. But this EDT created by Dominique Preyssas is one of those everyday (yet elegant scents) with fresh and spicy overtones. It’s also a bargain. Jaguar for Men Evolution EDT, R595 for 100ml.
Jaguar Classic Black EDT
I will apologise on behalf of Jaguar for the nasty silver plasticky packaging for this one. It’s worth overlooking, though, as this Dominique Preyssas scent strikes a good balance between its fruity (orange, green apple, tangerine notes), spicy (cardamom, nutmeg) and sensual (sandalwood, tonka bean, musk) elements. Jaguar Classic Black EDT, R895 for 100ml.
Jaguar Classic Red EDT
Please see above regarding the silver packaging. Karine Dubreuil (Gucci Pour Homme II, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême, L’Occitane en Provence Eau de Cade) created this EDT. It opens with the right kind of sweetness, courtesy of raspberry and blackcurrant notes. It’s got a warm and welcoming vibe, with jasmine leaves, bay and hot pepper oil, vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli notes. Jaguar Classic Red EDT, R895 for 100ml.
Jaguar Pace EDT
There’s a fresh and aromatic vibe to this EDT created by Alexandra Monet and Philippe Romano. The opening features a big hit of rosemary and black pepper notes, followed by cashmeran and French lavender notes. It’s a sporty scent and you don’t have to be a gym bunny to wear it. Jaguar Pace EDT, R895 for 100ml.
There comes a time in any fragrance lover’s life when you have to face a harsh reality. You’ve run out of space for your ever-expanding fragrance collection. Again. So much for the several storage expansions. It’s time to start thinking about editing the fragrance collection.
The undeniable truth: I had to accept the that I had run out of space for my lovelies. I could not continue just colonising other shelves occupied by my father’s beloved books.
“I could not continue just colonising other shelves occupied by my father’s beloved books.”
GIVE ME SPACE: What should stay? What should go?
.I had to decide what should stay and what should go. Pronto! In that spirit, I was going to call this post “Culling the fragrance collection”, but that sounded cruel and callous, albeit necessary. So I settled for the more rational and measured “editing”.
Fortunately, this realisation occurred in the run-up to Christmas so I decided editing the fragrance collection should have an altruistic spin, too. That is, the perfumes I no longer wanted would now become gifts.
GOING FOR BROKE: No, smashing my precious perfumes is not part of the editing process. But this particular bottle had to go, as the spray pump was leaking all over the place.
EDITING THE FRAGRANCE COLLECTION: QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS
Editing the fragrance collection wasn’t as easy as it sounds. But I found asking myself these questions below helped me immensely in the decision-making process. I hope they will help you, too, if you’re ever in a similar situation.
Why do I have this particular fragrance?
Does it bring me joy?
Or is it just one of many “nice” fragrances?
NICE. I LIKE YOU… But do I love you?
Does this fragrance have any special associations or memories for me?
When was the last time I actually wore this fragrance?
Why have I not worn it for ages?
Will this fragrance bring more joy to someone else rather than just gathering dust in my collection?
NOT GOING ANYWHERE: Apart from being a superb amber scent, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre reminds me of time spent with family last year. So it’s a keeper for sure.
Will I really notice if this fragrance is no longer in my collection? That is, will I lose sleep over it?
While I am in the editing mode, do I have a sufficient mix of fragrances in my collection, in terms of everyday vs special occasion, fragrance families, etc?
Please let me know how you go about reducing the size of your fragrance collection.
It was a year of fragrance surprises (Gucci Guilty Absolute), fragrance hype (Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous) and fragrance so-so’s. But this is not a post about the best and worst of 2017. Instead, my first post of 2018 will be devoted to one of the fragrance gems of last year: L’Envol de Cartier EDT.
I have a few favourite fragrance brands and Cartier is one of them. All of the Cartier fragrances I have tried have captured the brand’s ethos of luxurious craftsmanship. Jean-Claude Ellena’s classic creation, the supremely elegant Cartier Déclaration, is one of my all-time favourite fragrances. In recent years, much of this prestige is down to the sterling work of Mathilde Laurent, Cartier’s in-house perfumer.
SHOW ME THE HONEY
L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.
The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing. Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair.
Mathilde Laurent has created a fragrance of simplicity and beauty with L’Envol de Cartier EDT. Although officially a fragrance for men (not quite sure why), L’Envol de Cartier should definitely be explored by discerning men and women alike.
L’Envol de Cartier EDT, R985 for 60ml and R1 310 for 80ml.
I recently celebrated the first anniversary of my blog and flowers are always a good way to mark a special occasion. I launched Fragroom in December 2016 after leaving the corporate media world due to a bad case of burnout. It’s been a year of ups and downs and ups since then.
Blogging is high maintenance, especially if you’re a control freak like me. I always have such doubts before I click “publish”. Is this self-indulgent rubbish? Will my readers find this useful and interesting? Must get Photoshop – look at the specks on that bottle!
Mostly, though, it’s been an enriching experience. Learning new content skills and tricks. Learning from more experienced (and very generous) bloggers. Trusting my instincts.
The satisfaction of getting likes and comments from my readers is what keeps me going. Yes, we blog for ourselves and about our passions, but no point blogging in a vacuum, is there?
This collection of flowers from the communal gardens where I live in Bedfordview, Johannesburg, is my thank you to all those who have supported my blog so far.
As a blogger, I spend way too much time in front of the computer screen. A walk in the garden always puts a smile on my face when I am working towards one of my deadlines.
It’s time now for me to step back, unplug, spend time with family, friends, myself and a book… I will be back on the other side of 2017. Big thank you again.
