Fragroom: A Blog About Fragrance + Grooming for Men

November 2, 2018

Essential Skincare Products For A Healthy-Looking Glow: Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Replenishing HydraGel Complex, Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum, Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals Cleanser, L’Oréal Pure Clay Bright Mask, Freeman Bare Foot Repairing Cracked Heel Foot Treatment

I haven’t blogged about essential skincare products for a while. However, I have a good excuse. I’ve been testing some very worthwhile products, which I will tell you about below.

Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals Cleanser

I generally prefer washes or gels when it comes to cleaning le visage every morning and night, mainly for textural reasons. But I decided to give this cream cleanser a go, because I’ve heard good things about this South African brand. I’m glad I did, as it does a handsome job at cleaning the face, without stripping the life from it. Featuring anti-oxidant witch hazel and moisture-binding golden seaweed, it’s suitable for all skin types. R325 for 100ml, www.drgobac.com.

L’Oréal Pure Clay Bright Mask

I was introduced to this range last year (read here), so was very keen to try the latest additions to the L’Oréal Pure Clay Masks line-up. All the masks feature a trio of pure clays (kaolin, montmorillonite and ghassoul). These absorb excess sebum, eliminate imperfections and clarify the complexion, respectively. Featuring skin-evening yuzu lemon extract and natural exfoliators, L’Oréal Pure Clay Bright Mask is recommended for facial skin that needs a bit of lightening (yes, please!). It earns essential skincare points for being easy-peasy to apply/remove and the pretty noticeable results it produces. R127 for 50ml.

Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Replenishing HydraGel Complex

My skin often needs intensive moisturising. So it was more than happy to be treated recently to a twice-daily dose of this gel product. It’s loaded with powerful ingredients, such as deeply hydrating hyaluronic acid, skin-softening vitamin E and astringent tree mushroom extract. A big thumbs up to this essential skincare product for the way it’s easily absorbed and the cooling effect it has when applied to the skin. The refreshing smell is not too shabby either. R299 for 75ml.

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

Vitamin c has been shown to strengthen the skin’s natural defence systems against pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. But producing it in a form that can be easily delivered to and absorbed by the skin is another matter entirely. Fortunately, the smart researchers at Dermalogica have come up with a way to remedy this problem. Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum contains an ultra-stable form of vitamin C and other powerful ingredients. Together, these combat the above-mentioned problems and help the skin to protect itself. Some of these ingredients include: skin tone-evening ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, skin-firming palmitoyl tripeptide-5, dirt-removing lactic acid and antioxidant-rich chia seed oil. I used this product religiously twice-daily for over a month and was super-impressed by how healthy my skin looked. R1 495 for 30ml, www.dermalogica.co.za

Freeman Bare Foot Repairing Cracked Heel Foot Treatment

The reason I’ve included this foot-care product among various facial products is simple. While I’m fairly disciplined at taking care of le visage, my heels tend to be much neglected. I have a feeling I’m not the only one who behaves this way. The result? Unsightly and very sandal-unfriendly feet. So for the last few weeks I’ve been slathering on this product after giving my feet much-needed attention (read here for more tips). It contains anti-fungal neem oil and super-moisturising shea butter. The rosemary oil is great for circulation and combating unpleasant smells. R89.95 for 100ml, exclusive to Dis-Chem, www.dischem.co.za

October 24, 2018

5 Fragrance News Snippets: D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran, Jo Malone Huntsman Collection, Jeremy Fragrance Picks Alberto Morillas, Creed Aventus Cologne, Sophie Brocart The New MD Of Jean Patou

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection — Image: www.jomalone.co.uk

I’ve been wanting to launch a new series for a long time on my blog. Something that’s useful, but not too serious. Something that gives a quick overview of interesting things happening in the world of fragrance, without claiming to be a definitive guide. So here it is: The debut of the monthly Fragrance News Snippets on Fragroom.

Please let me know what you think of it. If you come across anything news-worthy, please forward to me (rpgoller@gmail.com) for consideration in future editions of Fragrance News Snippets .

D.S. & DURGA COLLABORATE WITH DURAN DURAN

How do you celebrate 40 years in the music biz? If you’re English pop band Duran Duran, you collaborate with the uber-cool D.S. & Durga, the New York-based niche perfume company. The result is a collection of four fragrances, D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran, inspired by songs released by the foursome over the decades. The perfume oils Hungry Like The Wolf, Come Undone, Skin Divers and You Kill Me With Silence are available exclusively from Liberty, London, in rollerball format for £75 each. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran — FINDING THEIR NICHE: The members of Duran Duran (John Taylor, Roger Taylor, Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes) with Kavi and David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.

JO MALONE PARTNERS WITH HUNTSMAN SAVILE ROW

Talking of collaborations… there’s been no shortage of standout Jo Malone fragrances for men over the years. But in a very smart move, the British fragrance brand has partnered with renowned tailors Huntsman Savile Row to produce a most gentlemanly collection. The four colognes feature enticing names (and combos) such as Amber & Patchouli, Assam & Grapefruit, Birch & Black Pepper and Whisky & Cedarwood. Original source for more info: read here.

JEREMY FRAGRANCE PICKS HIS PERFUMER

Fragrance reviewer Jeremy Fragrance has become something of a celebrity himself, with almost 600 000 followers across his various channels. So it was just a matter of time before the YouTube star launched his own fragrance range. The 29-year-old has chosen living legend Alberto Morillas (cK One, Cartier Panthere, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio, Mugler Cologne, Yves Saint Laurent M7) to create his fragrances. This must mean Jeremy Fragrance wants his perfumes to have: a) commercial appeal; b) critical success; and c) longevity. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets: Alberto Morillas and Jeremy Fragrance. — Image: Jeremy Fragrance Facebook

CREED AVENTUS GETS THE COLOGNE TREATMENT

Launched in 2010 by the French luxury fragrance company, Aventus EDP has developed a large cult following that borders on the religious. News that Creed plans to launch a cologne version of their best-seller has been met with much online excitement/exasperation. The prototype was on display earlier this month at the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes, France. No official launch date has been confirmed yet. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Creed Aventus Cologne — Image: Fragrantica

SOPHIE BROCARD TO HEAD UP JEAN PATOU

Following LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s recent acquisition of Jean Patou, Sophie Brocard has been announced as the new MD of the revered French fashion and perfume company. While Jean Patou has an impressive catalogue of fragrance classics, it hasn’t launched anything since 2016. Previously the CEO of luxury shoe brand Nicholas Kirkwood, Brocard will be responsible for re-establishing Jean Patou as a global luxury brand. No doubt, Jean Patou devotees will be watching her closely. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Jean Patou Joy EDP — Image: www.amazon.com

Is there anything in particular you’d you’d like to read in Fragroom’s Fragrance News Snippets? Please let me know.

October 19, 2018October 26, 2018

Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP — IMAGE COURTESY OF FRAGRANTICA.COM

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!

October 12, 2018

The Comfort of Smells

I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.

The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.

October 5, 2018

THE BUMPER CATCH-UP REVIEWS EDITION: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT, Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense, Cacharel Yes I Am EDP, Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP, Jimmy Choo Fever EDP, Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches.

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP Review — FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.

September 22, 2018

After Hours: Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP, Bentley For Men Absolute EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Noir Argent EDP, Jacques Bogart Silver Scent Midnight EDT Reviews

September 14, 2018

Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence Review

With its high altitude (1 753 metres above sea level), Johannesburg is notorious for its ultra-dry winters. As you can imagine, this calls for serious, intensive skincare. So when I received a parcel containing Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence a couple of months ago, I wanted to see if this product could take on the city’s tough winter climate. French beauty vs Johannesburg harshness, if you will.

Chanel’s Hydra Beauty line is all about hydrating, protecting and boosting the skin. Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence taps into the moisturising and energising properties of the camellia, in particular the Alba Plena variety. These are especially cultivated for Chanel. When these flowers blossom, the petals are collected to undergo a process of cold extraction to produce fresh camellia cells. This super-powerful active ingredient, in combination with antioxidant ginger root extract, glycerin and hyaluronic acid, is then stored in thousands of jellified micro-droplets.

POWER PETALS: Camellias were Coco Chanel’s favourite flower. “White Camellia” by Georgia O’Keeffe.

USING CHANEL HYDRA BEAUTY LIQUID ESSENCE

I used Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence for a period of six weeks in Johannesburg’s mid-winter. It’s been a long time since I have enjoyed using a skincare product so much. This has a lot to do with the application process when dabbing the product on the forehead, cheeks and chin. The micro-droplets containing the fresh camellia cells and other powerful active ingredients are broken and distributed over the skin. It’s a very fresh sensation and I could feel my skin lapping up the goodness on each application.

So Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence feels wonderful on the skin. How did it perform against the city’s winter? I was sceptical at first, but should have known better, as Chanel invests heavily in the science of beauty. Several people remarked during the time I used this product how “good” my skin was looking. Mirror time confirmed that my skin was looking surprisingly hydrated and invigorated for this time of the year. Sure, this product is pricey, but it delivers on its claims and feels like liquid indulgence.

Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence, R1 635 for 150ml.

September 2, 2018

You, Me And D&G Light Blue By The Sea

Levels of work pressure and stress were particularly high recently. So when an ex-GF from many lifetimes ago invited me to join her at her apartment on the coast for five days, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. I last had a getaway about a year ago with my father and sister (read here), so the need to escape was über urgent. Besides, it was the perfect excuse to bring along some fragrant friends, including Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT. Not to mention a whole slew of other fragrance finds for photographic purposes.

The destination? La Mercy on South Africa’s east coast in the province of KwaZulu-Natal (see map below). La Mercy is a pretty insignificant village, apart from its location near King Shaka International Airport. The economic hub of Durban is 35km away and it’s situated half between the increasingly built-up towns of Umhlanga and Ballito. This lack of an urban buzz suited me just fine.

The ride down on the Friday was uneventful – and long. Respect to my dear friend, who must be the most traffic-law abiding citizen in South Africa. She didn’t drive faster than the speed limit once, much to my impatience. We arrived at night, so my first view of the sea in years would have to wait till the morning. See below. But the sound of the Indian Ocean pounding away that night was therapeutic enough.

The next day, before I could slip into lazy mode, I first had to fulfill my duties as my friend’s plus one at a wedding of her close friend from our clubbing days. The nuptials were a charmingly casual affair, complete with barefoot ceremony in a sandpit. While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code (Sarongs? Swimwear? Shorts?), I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (La Mercy) — BEACHY DRESS CODE: Looking for inspiration.

“While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code, I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.”

Created by Carlos Benaïm, Frederic Malle Music For A While has been my most complimented fragrance for a long time. Can’t say I am surprised, as this EDP opens with a beautiful bouquet of lavender, supported by citrus and anise notes. There’s an assortment of sweet notes, including pineapple, sugar, caramel and fruit. Sounds overpowering, but the master perfumer keeps it light and airy. And the patchouli base tempers the effect.

The next four days were just what I needed. Lots of horizontal time in bed, interspersed with walks down to the sea and along the beach. After all, the beach was less than 100 metres from entrance of the apartment complex. These strolls yielded soothing, salty breezes and time to clear the mind. August is a winter month in South Africa, with temperatures hovering below 20°C, so I was very content to have seemingly kilometres of beach mostly to myself.

Even in this relative solitude on the beach, I found many signs of humanity. The worst, of course, being plastic pollution. The best being this relic from a recent religious ceremony. I have always had a thing for religious iconography, so it brought a smile to my face. And while I was tempted to take it with me, my better judgement said leave as is.

And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?

I deliberately brought these with me, as both are justifiably considered modern summer fragrance classics. I got to experience them, though, in a completely different context, sans Mediterranean Sea, blistering heat and David Gandy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT was created by top perfumer Olivier Cresp (read my interview with him here) and launched in 2001. It’s a great example of how to create a fruity floral with a fresh citrus twist, without assaulting its wearer and everyone else in its immediate vicinity with its presence. Stand-out notes in this EDT include Sicilian cedar, apple, bamboo, jasmine and musk. Fresh and sensual at the same time, little wonder it was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

Its compagno, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT (launched in 2007), has a similar effect, but with a citrus aromatic profile. Which means splashes of bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, grapefruit and juniper in the opening. After that, I can pick up a strong sprinkling of Sichuan pepper, with hints of musk and incense towards the end. It’s an uncomplicated, uplifting scent and so easy to wear.

August 12, 2018

Interview with Olivier Cresp, 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award Winner

One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.

When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.

This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).

Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.

“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).

More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).

Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects.

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT — TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT — MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today.

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel — GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.

“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, Perfumer & Flavorist, Penhaligons.com

July 28, 2018

Pinaud Clubman Shaving Products Review

My travails with shaving are well known, so I won’t repeat the details. But it does mean that I am always on the lookout for products that make this necessity a little easier. I was re-introduced to Pinaud Clubman products last year. But it’s only in the last month that I have started using some of the shaving products from this heritage brand.

A heritage brand always deserves an intro, so here goes. In 1810, Édouard Pinard founded the perfume and cosmetics company, Ed. Pinaud, in Paris. While the company became famous for its fragrances, its Clubman range of male toiletries became a barbershop staple. The brand was bought by American International Industries in the 1980s. The range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.

For this Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried the Classic Barber Shave Cream, No Bumps Gel and After Shave Lotion. All of these products are available at Dis-Chem.

“The Clubman range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.”

PINAUD CLUBMAN CLASSIC BARBER SHAVE CREAM

I’ve spotted this product in numerous barbershops over the years, so I was keen to see how it performed at home. It claims to offer “the most comfortable, smoothest, closest shave ever… to dramatically reduce dry skin, rashes, nicks and cuts.” As a shaving gel man, it took me a while to get used to the consistency of this cream. But once I had, I could appreciate its old-school quality (complete with classic barbershop fragrance) and how it improves razor glide. R149.95 for 453ml.

“Like many men, I’m familiar with pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin.”

PINAUD CLUBMAN NO BUMPS GEL

Like many men, I’m familiar with razor bumps and in-grown hairs (pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin). Pinaud Clubman No Bumps Gel features salicylic acid, which is a pro at dissolving pore-clogging dirt. This helps to prevent in-grown hairs. It also contains healing and hydrating panthenol, a vitamin B-5 derivative. I am happy to report that for the weeks I used this product after shaving, I had no problems with groan-inducing in-growns (apologies, I couldn’t help myself). This product packs a potent-smelling punch when you first open it, so easy does it. R199.95 for 118ml.

PINAUD CLUBMAN AFTER SHAVE LOTION

After shaves have never been my thing. Perhaps because I have experienced really burning ones in the past. For the last part of my Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried Pinaud Clubman After Shave Lotion several times for the sake of research. I love it! After all, it’s an aromatic-fougère classic with a most appealing mix of citrus, herbal and oakmoss notes. As much as I enjoy it on my face, I like it even more splashing it on my body. So this one will be migrating from my shaving products to my fragrance collection. R199.95 for 177ml.

Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals Cleanser

L’Oréal Pure Clay Bright Mask

Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Replenishing HydraGel Complex

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

Freeman Bare Foot Repairing Cracked Heel Foot Treatment

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D.S. & DURGA COLLABORATE WITH DURAN DURAN

JO MALONE PARTNERS WITH HUNTSMAN SAVILE ROW

JEREMY FRAGRANCE PICKS HIS PERFUMER

CREED AVENTUS GETS THE COLOGNE TREATMENT

SOPHIE BROCARD TO HEAD UP JEAN PATOU

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What fragrance are you wearing today?

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

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Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

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USING CHANEL HYDRA BEAUTY LIQUID ESSENCE

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And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?

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STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

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PINAUD CLUBMAN CLASSIC BARBER SHAVE CREAM

PINAUD CLUBMAN NO BUMPS GEL

PINAUD CLUBMAN AFTER SHAVE LOTION

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