Fragroom: A Blog About Fragrance + Grooming for Men

August 12, 2018

Interview with Olivier Cresp, 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award Winner

IMAGE OF OLIVIER CRESP COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.

When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.

RECOGNITION: Olivier Cresp accepts his Lifetime Achievement Award at New York City’s Lincoln Centre in June 2018. This image and image below by Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images for The Fragrance Foundation.

This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).

Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.

“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).

More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).

Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects.

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.

MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today.

GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.

“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, Perfumer & Flavorist, Penhaligons.com

July 28, 2018

Pinaud Clubman Shaving Products Review

My travails with shaving are well known, so I won’t repeat the details. But it does mean that I am always on the lookout for products that make this necessity a little easier. I was re-introduced to Pinaud Clubman products last year. But it’s only in the last month that I have started using some of the shaving products from this heritage brand.

A heritage brand always deserves an intro, so here goes. In 1810, Édouard Pinard founded the perfume and cosmetics company, Ed. Pinaud, in Paris. While the company became famous for its fragrances, its Clubman range of male toiletries became a barbershop staple. The brand was bought by American International Industries in the 1980s. The range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.

For this Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried the Classic Barber Shave Cream, No Bumps Gel and After Shave Lotion. All of these products are available at Dis-Chem.

“The Clubman range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.”

PINAUD CLUBMAN CLASSIC BARBER SHAVE CREAM

I’ve spotted this product in numerous barbershops over the years, so I was keen to see how it performed at home. It claims to offer “the most comfortable, smoothest, closest shave ever… to dramatically reduce dry skin, rashes, nicks and cuts.” As a shaving gel man, it took me a while to get used to the consistency of this cream. But once I had, I could appreciate its old-school quality (complete with classic barbershop fragrance) and how it improves razor glide. R149.95 for 453ml.

“Like many men, I’m familiar with pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin.”

PINAUD CLUBMAN NO BUMPS GEL

Like many men, I’m familiar with razor bumps and in-grown hairs (pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin). Pinaud Clubman No Bumps Gel features salicylic acid, which is a pro at dissolving pore-clogging dirt. This helps to prevent in-grown hairs. It also contains healing and hydrating panthenol, a vitamin B-5 derivative. I am happy to report that for the weeks I used this product after shaving, I had no problems with groan-inducing in-growns (apologies, I couldn’t help myself). This product packs a potent-smelling punch when you first open it, so easy does it. R199.95 for 118ml.

PINAUD CLUBMAN AFTER SHAVE LOTION

After shaves have never been my thing. Perhaps because I have experienced really burning ones in the past. For the last part of my Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried Pinaud Clubman After Shave Lotion several times for the sake of research. I love it! After all, it’s an aromatic-fougère classic with a most appealing mix of citrus, herbal and oakmoss notes. As much as I enjoy it on my face, I like it even more splashing it on my body. So this one will be migrating from my shaving products to my fragrance collection. R199.95 for 177ml.

July 15, 2018

Bleu de Chanel Parfum Review

I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.

Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.

A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.

SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.

According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.

“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”

However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.

The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.

July 6, 2018

Bumper Mid-Year Fragrance Edition: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP, Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT, Alaia EDP Nude, Bentley Momentum EDT, Lanvin Modern Princess EDP And More Reviews

I clearly have been in a hoarding/procrastinating mood for the last few months. I have accumulated a number of fragrance reviews. It’s July 2018 already, so best I get going. There’s quite a mix of fragrance reviews here, if I can say so myself, from teen surfer scent to way-out floral . Where known, I have provided the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

“Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched.”

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)

Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched. First of all let’s get the obvious out of the way. This is still a fresh-ish aquatic-style fragrance, but this time it’s all about the interplay of water and wood. There’s also a fruity vibe upfront. Patchouli is also a major element of the fragrance (apparently it was exclusively and ethically sourced from Guatemala). This patchouli note balances the aquatic and woody nature of this EDT with a sensual aspect. So what does this all mean? Acqua di Gio Absolu may not be an immediate winner like its predecessors, but its refined elegance makes it well worth sniffing out. R990 for 40ml, R1 420 for 75ml and R1 810 for 125ml.

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)

Those Alien flankers keep on coming and somehow manage to offer something different and worthwhile each time. Mugler Alien Futura is a fresher and subtler (for Mugler) take on the exotic theme. There’s citrus-y Buddha’s hand in the opening and night-blooming cereus (a cactus flower that blooms once a year at night) for a full-blown heart of intrigue. Irresistible, in that typically Mugler way. R755 for 30ml and R995 for 60ml.

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)

From the opening pink lady apple and redcurrant notes, through to the heart notes of freesia and jasmine notes, this Modern Princess sure is sweet. Ok, so too sweet for my liking, but then I am definitely not this EDT’s target market of younger women. If you like your fruity florals young, juicy ‘n sweet, come and get it. R595 for 30ml, R795 for 60ml and R995 for 90ml.

Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)

This oriental floral is the fourth fragrance from Alaia and so far I like what I am smelling. It has become my latest favourite bedtime scent. Not because of its name. But because it’s so comfortable, smooth and subtle. Cedar, cashmeran, orange blossom, tonka bean, musk and leather have been given the creamy ‘n dreamy treatment. R880 for 30ml, R1 320 for 50ml and R1 910 for 100ml.

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)

Hollister fragrances are all about the Californian lifestyle of sun, sea and surfing. This EDT has an intriguing list of notes, including lime caviar, ginger, pink pepper, silver algae, white iris, oakmoss, driftwood, salted amber and smooth amberwood. While I can’t pick up most of these notes (and I have worn this one several times), I do get a fresh and youthful aquatic vibe, with a tinge of salt. It’s a good choice for your younger brother, who’s just starting his fragrance adventures. R725 for 100ml.

Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Regular readers of my blog will know that I am a fan of Bentley fragrances. They offer surprisingly affordable quality and are made by top perfumers such as Nathalie Lorson. A woody aromatic, this EDT has a bit of an old-school fresh vibe opening (that’s not a bad thing), with bergamot, green violet and clary sage top notes. By the time, the base notes (sandalwood, tonka bean, moss and musks) kick in, it has evolved into something altogether more sensual. R1 245 for 100ml.

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, Sonia Constant, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege le Garlantezec)

There’s no stopping the fruity-florals trend. This EDT is a youthful and fresh take on the theme, with notes of blackcurrant, rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley, plum and a musk drydown featuring prominently. Thankfully, it avoids the sugar overload of the genre. R710 for 30ml, R910 for 50ml and R1 110 for 90ml.

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme

What Yardley Bond St fragrances lack in originality, they compensate with their budget-friendliness. The latest in the range is a straight-up masculine scent, with notes of pear, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, orange blossom, incense and amberwood creating a perfectly pleasant fruity, woody and spicy package. Longevity is not the best, but at the price, spray, spray away. R399.95 for 100ml.

June 23, 2018

Sonia Constant Interview: How She’s Making Her Mark In The Fragrance Industry

As is often the case with perfumers and their creations, I started enjoying the fragrances created by Sonia Constant before I knew she was the creative force behind them.

One of those fragrances would be Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc EDP, with its lush take on rose and musk, which she co-created with Calice Becker. Another would be the sensual overload of Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Sonia Constant also created Noir Pour Femme EDP, Ombre Leather 16 EDP and Orchid Soleil EDP for Tom Ford. And let’s not forget Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT. With its sophisticated spicy, woody and musk facets, it’s one of the best men’s designer fragrances in recent years, methinks.

Sonia Constant studied perfumery at the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, the school founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in Versailles. She did her training at Givaudan and has worked for the company since then.

PORTRAITS OF SONIA CONSTANT COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.

The first fragrance she created, s.Oliver Sport 1 Female, was launched in 2006. Since then she has notched up an impressive list of achievements. Some of her fragrance highlights include: Coach EDT, Fragonard Etoile EDT, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiare Mimosa EDT, Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Yellow EDT, Lanvin Eclat d’Arpege Pour Homme EDT, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis EDP, Montblanc Emblem EDT, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT and Valentino Donna Noir Absolu EDP.

COACH CLASS: Created by Sonia Constant, Coach EDT was launched in 2016.

When the EDP version of Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir was recently launched in South Africa, I was fortunate enough to bag an email interview with Sonia Constant. This is what she had to say.

What’s your earliest perfume memory?

The smell of my mother.

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

When I discovered it was a job! Before that I wanted to become a fashion designer or an architect. I also wanted to become a ballet dancer when I was a child.

“It’s important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.”

What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?

That you learn something every day. You never stop learning in this job, as logic doesn’t apply in perfumery. Also that it takes a lot of work to find the right balance and the perfect aesthetic. It’s also important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.

Sonia Constant - Montblanc Lady Emblem L'Eau EDT

SPARKLING: Launched in 2017, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT is one of many fragrances created by Sonia Constant.

How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?

I think, as a creator, it is important to create the trend. I am not a follower, but more of a trendsetter. Sometimes, though, it is better and easier to follow trends, as the consumer is by nature reluctant to smell new things.

You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?

We wanted to create a stronger, but fresher version – a technical challenge! I added some clary sage and made the fragrance more fluid, more watery, in a long-lasting freshness. The wood is more vibrant and gives more verticality to the fragrance. It’s also more ambery, with some cistus facets. I brought a new quality of citrus on top of the fragrance and played with our new extraordinary Integrale Bergamote ORPUR.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP

NATURAL ELEGANCE: Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP has a fresher quality than Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT.

I wanted to create a male fragrance that’s irresistible, but not following trends. Nothing fruity, gourmand or fougère. Just a very elegant woody-spicy-citrus fragrance using the best natural components.

How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?

One year.

This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?

I love Mr Rodriguez very much. He’s so talented and it’s an honour for me to work for him. He takes part in the development of the fragrances and has a very clear vison. A Narciso Rodriguez fragrance has a very distinctive signature – musk is very important. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are very different from other perfumes, because they are completely off trend. I love the dresses he designs because of the way they are cut. Simple and elegant. His dresses are intemporelle, like his fragrances.

IMAGE OF NARCISO RODRIGUEZ COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.

How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes?

Mr Rodriguez smells the fragrance several times during development, but not at all stages of development. I also work very closely with the Shiseido team, who know his taste perfectly. Mr Rodriguez is very consistent in what he likes.

“I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories.”

What’s next for Sonia Constant?

I have just signed Santal Musc EDP and Narciso Rouge EDP for Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino Donna Rosa Verde EDT and Cerruti 1881 Essentiel EDT. I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories. They are an ode to adventure in all its forms, capturing fleeting moments. Ella K is about looking at the world in a new way.

Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP, R1 115 for 50ml and R1 345 for 100ml. Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP, R2 380 for 100ml.

June 9, 2018

The Ugly Truth About Microbeads

My eyes have been taking a lot of strain recently. Not because I have been spending way too much time catching up on social media on my phone. It’s because I have been spending more time than usual reading the ultra-fine print on grooming and beauty products to see if they contain microbeads that are harmful to the environment.

“The past few years have seen an upsurge in awareness about the huge impact plastics are having on aquatic ecosystems.”

The past few years have seen an upsurge in awareness about the huge impact plastics are having on aquatic ecosystems. A lot of this damage is visible to the eye. But smaller pieces of plastic (microbeads or micro-plastics) are also contributing to the problem.

ALL CLEAR: Do your toiletries pass the microbeads test?

In 2015, the US banned the use of microbeads in products. The UK followed suit in early 2018. Most recently, I read that South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs is in talks with the cosmetics industry about phasing out these plastics: https://www.businesslive.co.za/bd/national/2018-05-18-state-gets-tough-on-toiletry-plastics/.

SPOT THE MICROBEADS: These tiny pieces of plastic are found in a variety of products. Image courtesy of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa.

I asked Dr Shannon Hampton, project co-ordinator of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa some questions about the environmental impact of microbeads.

What are microbeads?

Micro-plastics are any pieces of plastic that are less than 1mm in size. Some of them are visible to the human eye, but no less of a problem because of it. They are used to increase abrasiveness, add shine or sparkle.

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK: Microbeads in shampoo.

Which products are they found in?

Shampoos, soaps, toothpastes, body scrubs, facial scrubs, cleaning products, washing powder, make-up and body lotions. Most glitter is plastic.

ALL THAT GLITTERS: So pretty, yet so toxic.

Why are microbeads so harmful?

Micro-plastics are very difficult and expensive to filter out from waste water. Once they are in the environment, there is little that can be done to recover them. They contribute to the “plastic soup” that affects all parts of the ocean.

“Micro-plastics are very difficult and expensive to filter out from waste water.”

The tiny pieces of plastic get mistaken for food by zooplankton and then the zooplankton gets eaten by a small fish. The small fish gets eaten by a big fish, which then gets caught by a fisherman and lands on your plate, plastic included. The micro-plastics get scooped up in the gaping mouths of whales or filtered through the gills of mussels and sucked in by anemones.

ON THE MENU: Catch of the day infused with microbeads. Image courtesy of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa.

It won’t surprise you that there is no nutritional value to plastic. But did you know that some of the dyes used are toxic? Not only that, but plastic absorbs toxins like DDT. So the plastic becomes many times more toxic than the water that surrounds it (and this gets in to the meat of the fish that you eat).

Earlier this year the UK government banned the use of microbeads in various products. What is the South African government doing to combat this menace?

The Department of Environmental Affairs is working with the Department of Health to develop legislation to address the issue of microbeads.

How can consumers tell if the grooming or beauty products they are using contain microbeads?

The most common micro-plastic ingredients are listed below, but there are many variations:

Polyethylene (PE)

Polypropylene (PP)

Nylon (PA)

Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA)

Polythylene Terphthalate (PET)

Be suspicious of any artificial beads in your products. Microbeads are also used in household cleaning products, which don’t list ingredients.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT’S INSIDE YOUR PRODUCT?

What can consumers do to bring about change regarding the use of microbeads?

You can avoid all products with micro-plastics. Contact retailers and manufacturers asking them to no longer use them. The more people who actively choose to not buy products because of microbeads, the more pressure there will be on manufacturers to stop producing these products.

There are natural alternatives, so there is no need for plastics in our personal care products. Create awareness by talking about the issue with your friends and family. Contacting manufacturers and retailers on social media and directly can help them realise that there is public pressure to change their ways.

There is also a petition: https://www.change.org/p/ban-microbeads-in-south-africa?recruiter=69869968&utm_source=share_petition&utm_medium=facebook&utm_campaign=share_petition&utm_term=des-lg-no_src-custom_msg.

We have written about some of this on our website: http://ioisa.org/2015/09/01/ioi-sa-becomes-a-beat-the-microbead-partner/ and my blog: http://howtosurvivephd.blogspot.com/2015/08/taking-pollution-down-to-zero-become.html.

June 1, 2018

Arbour Café Rendezvous, With A Side Order Of Terre d’Hermes Parfum

I was recently invited to eat a meal at Arbour Café, a French-style cafe in Birdhaven, a wealthy Johannesburg suburb. I am usually weary of French-inspired restaurants, as all too often they lapse into tweeness and clichés. Non, merci beaucoup! However, in the name of open-mindedness, I put my misgivings aside and accepted the kind invitation. And besides I needed an outing to wear my Terre d’Hermes Parfum.

I arrived for my Arbour Café rendezvous for an early-ish brunch. While the street-facing side of the restaurant has its attractions, I chose to eat in the courtyard for a bit of air, sun and people-watching.

Arbour Café specialises in galettes (savoury French buckwheat pancakes) and crêpes (thinner pancakes usually served with sweeter fillings). There are plenty of other options on the menu for breakfast, dinner and lunch, including omelettes, salads, sandwiches and desserts.

TRES BIEN: Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg.

For my main meal, I chose the Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg. Très bien! And the Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes for dessert. C’est délicieux! Both were served by friendly and attentive staff in an amiable and comfortable environment that’s thankfully not precious at all.

C’EST DELICIEUX: Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes.

ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

And what of my fragrance companion, Terre d’Hermes Parfum? A perfect choice, if I may so myself. Whenever I wear this fragrance I ask myself (rhetorically), “Has bitter orange ever opened a fragrance so magnificently?”

Yet there’s so more to Terre d’Hermes Parfum than its trademark citrus introduction. Its flint note adds an unusual and earthy mineral aspect, which evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Not for nothing is Terre d’Hermes Parfum regarded as one of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterpieces.

While I was finishing my very pleasant meal in Arbour Café’s relaxing courtyard, a fellow diner walked by and swooned: “Oh! That must be Terre d’Hermes. I would recognize it anywhere.”

Arbour Café, corner Wrenrose Avenue and St Andrews Street, Birdhaven, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 788 4111. Email: info@arbourcafe.co.za. http://arbourcafe.co.za/

May 26, 2018

What I Packed For A Recent Stay In a Clinic

I recently spent almost a week in a clinic for an ongoing condition (more details in a future post). As I don’t travel light (too many “what ifs”), this won’t be one of those sensible “packing for clinic” posts. I will leave those to the packing experts. But I did have to think about the fragrance and grooming essentials for my stay. So, for me, the edited selection below was quite a feat.

The Bluebeards Revenge Bodywash

I last tried this British brand about five years ago. What stood out for me then was that its cheeky lad sense of humour is matched by the quality of its products. This bodywash cleans with a rich lather and the barbershop-ish scent adds to its appeal. R250.00 for 250ml, www.edgeformen.co.za and www.sorbetman.co.za

Diptyque Philosykos EDT

I knew I was going to be spending more time indoors than out. What fragrance would provide some olfactory escape? Diptyque Philosykos EDT, the magnificent fig fragrance created by Olivia Giocobetti, for sure. From the opening notes of fig leaf and fig, to the base of cedar, wood and fig tree notes (with hints of coconut and green notes in between), this smells like a Greek sabbatical to me.

Theravine Men Active Daily Face Wash

It’s never too early for wine, especially in the form of Theravine Men Active Daily Face Wash, which contains wine extract for the skin. Theravine is a South African brand that’s packed with grape by-products (for example, grapeseed extract, white wine extract, grapeseed oil, red grape skin extract and crushed grapeseeds), antioxidants and peptides. I also used this gentle face wash as a shampoo while away. It earns points for not containing alcohol, petrochemicals, silicones, artificial colourants, parabens and mineral oils. R272.00 for 250ml, www.theravine.co.za

Beaucience for men Anti-Ageing Moisturising Cream

Containing organic white willow bark extract, organic green tea, organic marula oil and Proteasyl PW (an active peptide), this cream protects against ageing while moisturising the skin. Like all Beaucience For Men products, it’s paraben- and cruelty-free. R159.99 for 75ml, www.beaucience.co.za/beaucience-for-men

The Bluebeards Revenge Shaving Cream

Shaving is a schlep for me, so anything that makes this necessary evil easier gets my vote. A little goes a long way with The Bluebeards Revenge Shaving Cream. It lathers up to a thick and creamy consistency to minimise the usual injuries and moisturises the skin while at it. R350 for 100ml, www.edgeformen.co.za and www.sorbetman.co.za

Theravine Men Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream

Tripeptide-10, potassium, wine extract, glucose and aloe ferox leaf extract are just some of the ingredients in this night cream. Light and easily absorbed, I think of it as a nightcap for the skin. R390 for 50ml, www.theravine.co.za

May 19, 2018May 23, 2018

Nathalie Lorson Interview: Exploring Beyond The Limits

In a perfume context, what could bring me more joy than wearing one of my all-time favourite fragrances, Lalique Encre Noire? Well, the thrill of interviewing the creator of that classic fragrance would come a darn close second. Who am I talking about? Master perfumer Nathalie Lorson, of course.

With a bit of crafty detective work, I managed to contact Nathalie Lorson by email. Very graciously and in between her numerous projects, she agreed to answer my questions by email.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire EDT

VERITABLE VETIVER: Launched in 2006, Lalique Encre Noire EDT has become a classic vetiver fragrance. It’s earthy, dark and dirty in all the right ways.

Please see below her answers. But first a quick-quick bio. Nathalie Lorson was born in Grasse, the heartland of perfumery. When she completed her perfume studies at Roure Perfumery School (now Givaudan), she worked for International Flavours & Fragrances. For the past 18 years, she has worked for Firmenich. With a career spanning more than 35 years, Nathalie Lorson has been a prolific perfumer, working across all genres, from designer and niche to celebrity fragrances.

VEHICLE OF EXPRESSION: Whenever people turn up their noses at automotive fragrances, I point them in the direction of Nathalie Lorson’s quality work for Bentley fragrances.

I won’t bore you with a long list of her 170+ creations (you can find that on Fragrantica). But this round-up of highlights will give you a good idea of her accomplishments and versatility. Dita Von Teese EDP. Dolce & Gabbana Sicily EDP. Giorgio Armani Cuir Noir EDP. Givenchy Gentleman EDT and EDP. Jil Sander Sensations EDT. Le Labo Poivre 23 London EDP. Mandarina Duck Pure Black EDT. Versace Versus Woman EDT. Yves Saint Laurent Opium and its various flankers. Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him!

Nathalie Lorson - Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT

VERSATILE: Nathalie Lorson has achieved success across all genres, including designer fragrances such as Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT.

Nathalie Lorson has also bagged several awards along the way. These include Perfumer of the Year in Italy and France (2015). This month (May 2018), she garnered the Best Fragrance of Artistic Perfumery award for Altaia Tuberose in Blue EDP by the Accademia del Profumo.

“Designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. Even today I feel like I am still learning.”

Why did you want to become a perfumer?

I spent my childhood in Grasse, where my father was working as a chemist in the fragrance industry [at Roure]. Naturally I wanted to follow my father’s path and started my perfumery studies in Grasse.

PORTRAITS OF NATHALIE LORSON COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?

Like a pianist playing his scales, I memorised during my studies a lot of scents and learned how to associate them together. Then, I focused on the aesthetic aspect of the composition, trying to find the best harmony between all ingredients, creating the most beautiful perfume. What stayed very fresh in my mind is that designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. It is an everyday learning. Even today I feel like I am still learning.

Is perfumery an art or a science for you?

As a perfumer, my main challenge lies in the art of translating emotions into addictions and to imagine the best harmony between the fragrance and the person who will wear it. More than a science, by mixing art and technique, perfumery is recognised as craftsmanship. I like to compare myself to a gold digger, seeking nuggets. We find lots of dust, but very few nuggets.

What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?

My first creation in fine fragrance was a fresh floral perfume, Romeo for Romeo Gigli, in the late 80s.

How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?

Discussions with inspiring people are critical – they bring to life the ideas behind the scent. My inspiration comes from everything around me: new raw materials, a surprising combination of new scents, a colour. Most importantly, the brand universe will influence the final shape of the fragrance. Always behind the scenes, I translate the brand history into an olfactory tale. Personally, I like to work with many different types of ingredients and explore them beyond their limits. I like the dynamism of switching from one project to another and juggling different ideas. I like to explore and discover.

One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?

Knowing that one of my creations became someone’s favourite scent is my greatest reward. The beautiful story of Lalique Encre Noire was written with the purest vetiver, one of my favourite raw materials. Encre Noire was subtly twisted into a modern woody blend, enhancing its noble character. Today it remains contemporary, yet timeless.

Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?

Of course, as I always remain curious about how my creations are perceived by experts, including the voice of the consumer. Critics also nourish my future works.

Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?

I do not have such plans at the moment. I feel fulfilled with all the exciting projects I am working on.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT

GOOD SPORT: Nathalie Lorson also created the superb Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT, pictured here, and Lalique Encre Noire à L’Extrême EDP.

May 5, 2018

Minerals Resources: Mineraline Products Review

I’ve known for a long time about the health and beauty benefits of products enriched with Dead Sea minerals. But, apart from the odd mud face mask, I haven’t properly tried any products that feature them. So when the PR for Mineraline sent me some products to try, I was keen to see if the claims about these minerals are fact or hype.

“These minerals are particularly good at purifying, exfoliating and regenerating the skin.”

Mineraline is an Israeli brand and all of their products feature Dead Sea minerals. The Dead Sea is renowned for its high concentrations of minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sulphur, bromide, iodine, sodium, zinc and potassium. These minerals are particularly good at purifying, exfoliating and regenerating the skin.

There are several Mineraline ranges, including Face Care Exfoliate, Purify, Hydrate, Rebalance, Rejuvenate, Aloe Vera, Anti-Aging and Acne Solutions. All their products are paraben-, mineral oil- and cruelty-free. I got to try out the products below, all available exclusively at Dis-Chem pharmacies nationwide. Overall, I was impressed by how well they got on with the job and at a very reasonable price, too.

Mineraline Purify Gentle Foaming Face Cleanser

Featuring a combo of Dead Sea minerals, witch hazel, aloe vera and chamomile, this face cleanser for all skin types purifies, soothes and moisturises. It’s sodium laureth sulphate free, but still lathers up pronto. R185 for 150ml

Mineraline Hydrate Super Hydrating Day Cream

Big points for this day cream, as it’s super easily absorbed. It hydrates and heals skin with a mix of ingredients that includes Dead Dea minerals, shea butter, vitamin E and rosemary leaf extract. R195.00 for 50ml

Mineraline Time It! Serum

This serum from Mineraline’s anti-ageing line reduces wrinkle depth and tones, firms and moisturises the skin. Ingredients include Dead Sea minerals and Uniprosyn PS-18 Uniprotect PT-3. Quick translation: The latter are active agents that stimulate the production of specific skin barrier proteins. R245 for 50ml

Mineraline Time It! Night Cream

Containing Dead Sea minerals and Uniprosyn PS-18 Uniprotect PT-3, it targets lines on the face and the neck. Like all good anti-ageing products to be used at night, it works while you sleep. R245 for 50ml

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

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PINAUD CLUBMAN CLASSIC BARBER SHAVE CREAM

PINAUD CLUBMAN NO BUMPS GEL

PINAUD CLUBMAN AFTER SHAVE LOTION

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SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

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Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)

Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)

Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, Sonia Constant, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege le Garlantezec)

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme

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What’s your earliest perfume memory?

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?

How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?

You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?

How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?

This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?

How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes?

What’s next for Sonia Constant?

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What are microbeads?

Which products are they found in?

Why are microbeads so harmful?

Earlier this year the UK government banned the use of microbeads in various products. What is the South African government doing to combat this menace?

How can consumers tell if the grooming or beauty products they are using contain microbeads?

What can consumers do to bring about change regarding the use of microbeads?

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ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

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The Bluebeards Revenge Bodywash

Diptyque Philosykos EDT

Theravine Men Active Daily Face Wash

Beaucience for men Anti-Ageing Moisturising Cream

The Bluebeards Revenge Shaving Cream

Theravine Men Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream

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Like this:

Why did you want to become a perfumer?

What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?

Is perfumery an art or a science for you?

What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?

How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?

One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?

Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?

Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?

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Like this:

Mineraline Purify Gentle Foaming Face Cleanser

Mineraline Hydrate Super Hydrating Day Cream

Mineraline Time It! Serum

Mineraline Time It! Night Cream

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