I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.
The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP
Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.
Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow
Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.
Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood
Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.
Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil
Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.
Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon
I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.
Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches.
I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.
So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.
Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)
If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.
Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)
When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.
Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)
Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.
Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP
Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.
Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)
Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.
FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.
Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)
The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.
Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)
The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.
Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)
Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.
With its high altitude (1 753 metres above sea level), Johannesburg is notorious for its ultra-dry winters. As you can imagine, this calls for serious, intensive skincare. So when I received a parcel containing Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence a couple of months ago, I wanted to see if this product could take on the city’s tough winter climate. French beauty vs Johannesburg harshness, if you will.
Chanel’s Hydra Beauty line is all about hydrating, protecting and boosting the skin. Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence taps into the moisturising and energising properties of the camellia, in particular the Alba Plena variety. These are especially cultivated for Chanel. When these flowers blossom, the petals are collected to undergo a process of cold extraction to produce fresh camellia cells. This super-powerful active ingredient, in combination with antioxidant ginger root extract, glycerin and hyaluronic acid, is then stored in thousands of jellified micro-droplets.
POWER PETALS: Camellias were Coco Chanel’s favourite flower. “White Camellia” by Georgia O’Keeffe.
USING CHANEL HYDRA BEAUTY LIQUID ESSENCE
I used Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence for a period of six weeks in Johannesburg’s mid-winter. It’s been a long time since I have enjoyed using a skincare product so much. This has a lot to do with the application process when dabbing the product on the forehead, cheeks and chin. The micro-droplets containing the fresh camellia cells and other powerful active ingredients are broken and distributed over the skin. It’s a very fresh sensation and I could feel my skin lapping up the goodness on each application.
So Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence feels wonderful on the skin. How did it perform against the city’s winter? I was sceptical at first, but should have known better, as Chanel invests heavily in the science of beauty. Several people remarked during the time I used this product how “good” my skin was looking. Mirror time confirmed that my skin was looking surprisingly hydrated and invigorated for this time of the year. Sure, this product is pricey, but it delivers on its claims and feels like liquid indulgence.
Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence, R1 635 for 150ml.
Levels of work pressure and stress were particularly high recently. So when an ex-GF from many lifetimes ago invited me to join her at her apartment on the coast for five days, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. I last had a getaway about a year ago with my father and sister (read here), so the need to escape was über urgent. Besides, it was the perfect excuse to bring along some fragrant friends, including Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT. Not to mention a whole slew of other fragrance finds for photographic purposes.
The destination? La Mercy on South Africa’s east coast in the province of KwaZulu-Natal (see map below). La Mercy is a pretty insignificant village, apart from its location near King Shaka International Airport. The economic hub of Durban is 35km away and it’s situated half between the increasingly built-up towns of Umhlanga and Ballito. This lack of an urban buzz suited me just fine.
The ride down on the Friday was uneventful – and long. Respect to my dear friend, who must be the most traffic-law abiding citizen in South Africa. She didn’t drive faster than the speed limit once, much to my impatience. We arrived at night, so my first view of the sea in years would have to wait till the morning. See below. But the sound of the Indian Ocean pounding away that night was therapeutic enough.
The next day, before I could slip into lazy mode, I first had to fulfill my duties as my friend’s plus one at a wedding of her close friend from our clubbing days. The nuptials were a charmingly casual affair, complete with barefoot ceremony in a sandpit. While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code (Sarongs? Swimwear? Shorts?), I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.
BEACHY DRESS CODE: Looking for inspiration.
“While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code, I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.”
Created by Carlos Benaïm, Frederic Malle Music For A While has been my most complimented fragrance for a long time. Can’t say I am surprised, as this EDP opens with a beautiful bouquet of lavender, supported by citrus and anise notes. There’s an assortment of sweet notes, including pineapple, sugar, caramel and fruit. Sounds overpowering, but the master perfumer keeps it light and airy. And the patchouli base tempers the effect.
The next four days were just what I needed. Lots of horizontal time in bed, interspersed with walks down to the sea and along the beach. After all, the beach was less than 100 metres from entrance of the apartment complex. These strolls yielded soothing, salty breezes and time to clear the mind. August is a winter month in South Africa, with temperatures hovering below 20°C, so I was very content to have seemingly kilometres of beach mostly to myself.
Even in this relative solitude on the beach, I found many signs of humanity. The worst, of course, being plastic pollution. The best being this relic from a recent religious ceremony. I have always had a thing for religious iconography, so it brought a smile to my face. And while I was tempted to take it with me, my better judgement said leave as is.
And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?
I deliberately brought these with me, as both are justifiably considered modern summer fragrance classics. I got to experience them, though, in a completely different context, sans Mediterranean Sea, blistering heat and David Gandy.
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT was created by top perfumer Olivier Cresp (read my interview with him here) and launched in 2001. It’s a great example of how to create a fruity floral with a fresh citrus twist, without assaulting its wearer and everyone else in its immediate vicinity with its presence. Stand-out notes in this EDT include Sicilian cedar, apple, bamboo, jasmine and musk. Fresh and sensual at the same time, little wonder it was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.
Its compagno, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT (launched in 2007), has a similar effect, but with a citrus aromatic profile. Which means splashes of bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, grapefruit and juniper in the opening. After that, I can pick up a strong sprinkling of Sichuan pepper, with hints of musk and incense towards the end. It’s an uncomplicated, uplifting scent and so easy to wear.
One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.
When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.
RECOGNITION: Olivier Cresp accepts his Lifetime Achievement Award at New York City’s Lincoln Centre in June 2018. This image and image below by Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images for The Fragrance Foundation.
This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).
Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.
“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”
STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES
Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).
More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).
Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects.
How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?
The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.
TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.
What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?
I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.
MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.
What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?
My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today.
GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.
What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?
It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.
Has your fragrance style changed over the years?
I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.
“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”
Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?
The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.
When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?
Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.
You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?
Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.
My travails with shaving are well known, so I won’t repeat the details. But it does mean that I am always on the lookout for products that make this necessity a little easier. I was re-introduced to Pinaud Clubman products last year. But it’s only in the last month that I have started using some of the shaving products from this heritage brand.
A heritage brand always deserves an intro, so here goes. In 1810, Édouard Pinard founded the perfume and cosmetics company, Ed. Pinaud, in Paris. While the company became famous for its fragrances, its Clubman range of male toiletries became a barbershop staple. The brand was bought by American International Industries in the 1980s. The range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.
For this Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried the Classic Barber Shave Cream, No Bumps Gel and After Shave Lotion. All of these products are available at Dis-Chem.
“The Clubman range now includes everything from bath and body to haircare products.”
PINAUD CLUBMAN CLASSIC BARBER SHAVE CREAM
I’ve spotted this product in numerous barbershops over the years, so I was keen to see how it performed at home. It claims to offer “the most comfortable, smoothest, closest shave ever… to dramatically reduce dry skin, rashes, nicks and cuts.” As a shaving gel man, it took me a while to get used to the consistency of this cream. But once I had, I could appreciate its old-school quality (complete with classic barbershop fragrance) and how it improves razor glide. R149.95 for 453ml.
“Like many men, I’m familiar with pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin.”
PINAUD CLUBMAN NO BUMPS GEL
Like many men, I’m familiar with razor bumps and in-grown hairs (pseudofolliculitis barbae, if we are going to do Latin). Pinaud Clubman No Bumps Gel features salicylic acid, which is a pro at dissolving pore-clogging dirt. This helps to prevent in-grown hairs. It also contains healing and hydrating panthenol, a vitamin B-5 derivative. I am happy to report that for the weeks I used this product after shaving, I had no problems with groan-inducing in-growns (apologies, I couldn’t help myself). This product packs a potent-smelling punch when you first open it, so easy does it. R199.95 for 118ml.
PINAUD CLUBMAN AFTER SHAVE LOTION
After shaves have never been my thing. Perhaps because I have experienced really burning ones in the past. For the last part of my Pinaud Clubman shaving products review, I tried Pinaud Clubman After Shave Lotion several times for the sake of research. I love it! After all, it’s an aromatic-fougère classic with a most appealing mix of citrus, herbal and oakmoss notes. As much as I enjoy it on my face, I like it even more splashing it on my body. So this one will be migrating from my shaving products to my fragrance collection. R199.95 for 177ml.
I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.
Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.
A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.
SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?
The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.
According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.
“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”
However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.
The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.
Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.
I clearly have been in a hoarding/procrastinating mood for the last few months. I have accumulated a number of fragrance reviews. It’s July 2018 already, so best I get going. There’s quite a mix of fragrance reviews here, if I can say so myself, from teen surfer scent to way-out floral . Where known, I have provided the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
“Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched.”
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)
Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched. First of all let’s get the obvious out of the way. This is still a fresh-ish aquatic-style fragrance, but this time it’s all about the interplay of water and wood. There’s also a fruity vibe upfront. Patchouli is also a major element of the fragrance (apparently it was exclusively and ethically sourced from Guatemala). This patchouli note balances the aquatic and woody nature of this EDT with a sensual aspect. So what does this all mean? Acqua di Gio Absolu may not be an immediate winner like its predecessors, but its refined elegance makes it well worth sniffing out. R990 for 40ml, R1 420 for 75ml and R1 810 for 125ml.
Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)
Those Alien flankers keep on coming and somehow manage to offer something different and worthwhile each time. Mugler Alien Futura is a fresher and subtler (for Mugler) take on the exotic theme. There’s citrus-y Buddha’s hand in the opening and night-blooming cereus (a cactus flower that blooms once a year at night) for a full-blown heart of intrigue. Irresistible, in that typically Mugler way. R755 for 30ml and R995 for 60ml.
Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)
From the opening pink lady apple and redcurrant notes, through to the heart notes of freesia and jasmine notes, this Modern Princess sure is sweet. Ok, so too sweet for my liking, but then I am definitely not this EDT’s target market of younger women. If you like your fruity florals young, juicy ‘n sweet, come and get it. R595 for 30ml, R795 for 60ml and R995 for 90ml.
Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)
This oriental floral is the fourth fragrance from Alaia and so far I like what I am smelling. It has become my latest favourite bedtime scent. Not because of its name. But because it’s so comfortable, smooth and subtle. Cedar, cashmeran, orange blossom, tonka bean, musk and leather have been given the creamy ‘n dreamy treatment. R880 for 30ml, R1 320 for 50ml and R1 910 for 100ml.
Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)
Hollister fragrances are all about the Californian lifestyle of sun, sea and surfing. This EDT has an intriguing list of notes, including lime caviar, ginger, pink pepper, silver algae, white iris, oakmoss, driftwood, salted amber and smooth amberwood. While I can’t pick up most of these notes (and I have worn this one several times), I do get a fresh and youthful aquatic vibe, with a tinge of salt. It’s a good choice for your younger brother, who’s just starting his fragrance adventures. R725 for 100ml.
Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)
Regular readers of my blog will know that I am a fan of Bentley fragrances. They offer surprisingly affordable quality and are made by top perfumers such as Nathalie Lorson. A woody aromatic, this EDT has a bit of an old-school fresh vibe opening (that’s not a bad thing), with bergamot, green violet and clary sage top notes. By the time, the base notes (sandalwood, tonka bean, moss and musks) kick in, it has evolved into something altogether more sensual. R1 245 for 100ml.
There’s no stopping the fruity-florals trend. This EDT is a youthful and fresh take on the theme, with notes of blackcurrant, rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley, plum and a musk drydown featuring prominently. Thankfully, it avoids the sugar overload of the genre. R710 for 30ml, R910 for 50ml and R1 110 for 90ml.
Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme
What Yardley Bond St fragrances lack in originality, they compensate with their budget-friendliness. The latest in the range is a straight-up masculine scent, with notes of pear, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, orange blossom, incense and amberwood creating a perfectly pleasant fruity, woody and spicy package. Longevity is not the best, but at the price, spray, spray away. R399.95 for 100ml.
As is often the case with perfumers and their creations, I started enjoying the fragrances created by Sonia Constant before I knew she was the creative force behind them.
One of those fragrances would be Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc EDP, with its lush take on rose and musk, which she co-created with Calice Becker. Another would be the sensual overload of Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Sonia Constant also created Noir Pour Femme EDP, Ombre Leather 16 EDP and Orchid Soleil EDP for Tom Ford. And let’s not forget Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT. With its sophisticated spicy, woody and musk facets, it’s one of the best men’s designer fragrances in recent years, methinks.
Sonia Constant studied perfumery at the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, the school founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in Versailles. She did her training at Givaudan and has worked for the company since then.
PORTRAITS OF SONIA CONSTANT COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.
The first fragrance she created, s.Oliver Sport 1 Female, was launched in 2006. Since then she has notched up an impressive list of achievements. Some of her fragrance highlights include: Coach EDT, Fragonard Etoile EDT, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiare Mimosa EDT, Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Yellow EDT, Lanvin Eclat d’Arpege Pour Homme EDT, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis EDP, Montblanc Emblem EDT, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT and Valentino Donna Noir Absolu EDP.
COACH CLASS: Created by Sonia Constant, Coach EDT was launched in 2016.
When the EDP version of Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir was recently launched in South Africa, I was fortunate enough to bag an email interview with Sonia Constant. This is what she had to say.
What’s your earliest perfume memory?
The smell of my mother.
When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?
When I discovered it was a job! Before that I wanted to become a fashion designer or an architect. I also wanted to become a ballet dancer when I was a child.
“It’s important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.”
What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?
That you learn something every day. You never stop learning in this job, as logic doesn’t apply in perfumery. Also that it takes a lot of work to find the right balance and the perfect aesthetic. It’s also important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.
SPARKLING: Launched in 2017, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT is one of many fragrances created by Sonia Constant.
How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?
I think, as a creator, it is important to create the trend. I am not a follower, but more of a trendsetter. Sometimes, though, it is better and easier to follow trends, as the consumer is by nature reluctant to smell new things.
You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?
We wanted to create a stronger, but fresher version – a technical challenge! I added some clary sage and made the fragrance more fluid, more watery, in a long-lasting freshness. The wood is more vibrant and gives more verticality to the fragrance. It’s also more ambery, with some cistus facets. I brought a new quality of citrus on top of the fragrance and played with our new extraordinary Integrale Bergamote ORPUR.
NATURAL ELEGANCE: Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP has a fresher quality than Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT.
I wanted to create a male fragrance that’s irresistible, but not following trends. Nothing fruity, gourmand or fougère. Just a very elegant woody-spicy-citrus fragrance using the best natural components.
How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?
One year.
This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?
I love Mr Rodriguez very much. He’s so talented and it’s an honour for me to work for him. He takes part in the development of the fragrances and has a very clear vison. A Narciso Rodriguez fragrance has a very distinctive signature – musk is very important. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are very different from other perfumes, because they are completely off trend. I love the dresses he designs because of the way they are cut. Simple and elegant. His dresses are intemporelle, like his fragrances.
IMAGE OF NARCISO RODRIGUEZ COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.
How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes?
Mr Rodriguez smells the fragrance several times during development, but not at all stages of development. I also work very closely with the Shiseido team, who know his taste perfectly. Mr Rodriguez is very consistent in what he likes.
“I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories.”
What’s next for Sonia Constant?
I have just signed Santal Musc EDP and Narciso Rouge EDP for Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino Donna Rosa Verde EDT and Cerruti 1881 Essentiel EDT. I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories. They are an ode to adventure in all its forms, capturing fleeting moments. Ella K is about looking at the world in a new way.
Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP, R1 115 for 50ml and R1 345 for 100ml. Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP, R2 380 for 100ml.
