Revlon Charlie: 50 Years Young

Revlon Charlie

Any fragrance that’s been around for 50 years deserves our respect and Revlon Charlie EDT (also known as Charlie Original and Charlie Blue) warrants my approval without hesitation. Launched in 1973, it was very much an aldehydic-floral scent of its time, with pioneering advertising and marketing helping make it a huge commercial success.

Shelley Hack

IMAGE: Revlon.

Tapping into the spirit of female empowerment and career advancement of the decade, ads featured Shelley Hack (the first woman to wear pants in a fragrance commercial) striding out in confident and liberated style. Later ads featured Sharon Stone and Cindy Crawford. Pop culture extra! In 2007, Oprah Winfrey interviewed Hack on her talk show as an acknowledgement of the influence of the Revlon Charlie ads on her aspirations.

Revlon Charlie - Sharon Stone

IMAGE: Revlon.

What a pity the American beauty brand isn’t doing more to celebrate its award-winning icon (in 1974, it bagged The Fragrance Foundation – Women’s Popular and Media Campaign of the Year awards). Perhaps its recent bankruptcy problems are a reason for this glaring oversight.

Revlon Charlie - Shelley Hack and Oprah

IMAGE: Oprah.com

PERFUMER

The perfumer behind Revlon Charlie EDT, Francis Camail, is also the man responsible for other classics such as Estée Lauder Aliage EDT (1972), Pierre Balmain Ivoire de Balmain EDT (1979) and Goutal Eau d’Hadrien EDT (1980).

Revlon Charlie EDT - Francis Camail

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

The bright freshness of lemon blossom creates an immediate uplifting vibe, while a note of hyacinth brings greenery to the composition. There’s more fresh floralcy from notes of rose and lily-of-the-valley. The crisp and clean effect is enhanced by aldehydes.

Now’s a good time for Ingredients 101. Aldehydes feature in a veritable rollcall of all-time classics, including Chanel No 5 Parfum (1921), Carven Ma Griffe Parfum (1946), Rochas Madame Rochas EDT (1960), Hermès Calèche EDT (1961) and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche EDT (1971).

Revlon Charlie EDT

“While aldehydic, it’s not heavy when compared with many others in the genre.”

Depending on which one is used and how they are used, they can give compositions a clean, citric, soapy, laundry-fresh, waxy, between-the-sheets sensual, even metallic vibe. They are particularly useful in helping give top and floral notes extra sparkle and pop (as they do so well in Revlon Charlie EDT). After all that freshness, the fragrance goes deeper in the drydown with notes of sandalwood and oakmoss. While aldehydic, it’s not heavy when compared with many others in the genre.

Let’s get this question out of the way. Aren’t aldehydes old-fashioned? Don’t trigger me. While retro but not out-dated (there’s a difference), Revlon Charlie EDT maintains its youthful allure and will appeal to anyone who’s open-minded enough to appreciate the classics.

Revlon Charlie EDT

Wear it when you want a dose of fresh and versatile upliftment. It sparkles in warmer weather but as I’m not a seasonal fascist, you can wear it in cooler weather too.

Linda Pilkington Interview: “Ormonde Jayne Is Privately Owned By Me, So It’s Agile”

Linda Pilkington

IMAGE: Ormonde Jayne

What started out as a request for product info* (for some reason, I decided to send to send my email to the PR contact on the Ormonde Jayne website) turned into a fully-fledged Zoom interview the next day with Linda Pilkington.

Good fortune! I’d put the founder of the London-based niche brand on my interview wish-list a couple of years ago, thinking it would probably take more time to materialise. So I’m not gushing (okay, just a little bit) when I tell Linda Pilkington it’s such a “thrill” to speak to her. Good timing too, I must add, with the October 2023 launch of Ormonde Jayne Arabesque EDP (a collaboration with Expressions Parfumées).

Ormonde Jayne Arabesque EDP

IMAGE: Ormonde Jayne.

My love for all things Ormonde Jayne can be traced back to one perfume specifically – Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP (2004) – and several others I’ve tried after that beauty.

Although Linda Pilkington says she’s more “thin skinned” than people realise, I get a strong sense of her grit, determination, humour, graciousness and entrepreneurial spirit. These qualities have taken her from an ice cream parlour founder and Chanel candle-maker to the owner of one of Britain’s leading niche fragrance brands.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

*I assumed, erroneously as it turned out, that Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir (2019) was created by Geza Schoen, who created the original. I discover during the interview that Linda Pilkington is a bit of a perfumer herself, “largely self-taught, at the very beginning of Ormonde Jayne, going through volumes of Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, working with Geza Schoen and researching in Grasse part of the experience”.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Ta'if Elixir

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m wearing Ormonde Woman EDP. When I wake up, I think through the day ahead. What have I got? What do I need to wear? Am I meeting people?

If I’m going to be with lots of different people, I like to wear Ormonde Woman because it makes me feel like I’ve got a protective shield around me. I can function because it’s the black hemlock absolute, this kind of mysterious poisonous wood [I laugh].

No offence, by the way, it just makes me feel more special than, let’s say, if I was going out for a romantic dinner with my husband, and I may wear something a bit more alluring and floral.

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman EDP

IMAGE: Ormonde Jayne.

I could see why you would choose Ormonde Woman to give you that feeling. And that’s also the power of a beautifully created fragrance.

That’s right. Because sometimes a perfume can make you feel a certain way. I’ve done a bit of research in this area where scientists have proven certain ingredients have an effect on the brain, therefore would technically affect how you feel about something. It’s a concept I’m quite interested in looking into because it’s a lovely new dimension. How does this perfume make you feel?

You started your company in 2000 and here you are 20 years+ later. What’s kept you going through all this time?

The company, because it’s privately owned by me, is quite agile, therefore you haven’t got to explain to a committee or to investors, this has happened, that’s happened.

We’ve got the 2008 financial crash, a terrible Christmas and the whole of Bond Street was absolutely dead. And, of course, you just invested in a lot of components, oils, boxes and now you’ve got to pay the bill. We’ve had Covid, Brexit. One year I took a 300% rent increase, because the shop opposite my boutique had accepted a 300% increase in their rent.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Frangipani EDP

So you have all these moments that you’ve got to deal with and I’m actually quite thin skinned. People always think I’m quite tough, tough as old boots, but these are things that keep me pondering all night long. What’s the best move? And then I run it by several people who I trust, like my husband and other people in the trade, and then I go with my own gut instinct which would be the right thing for Ormonde Jayne, taking into account what everybody’s told me.

“I felt the need to strengthen the company, so I’m not suddenly finding myself with 350 points of sales closed and rents to pay.” – Linda Pilkington

We’ve had a few hair-raising moments, but now we’re in a good strong position because after Covid, I felt the need to strengthen the company, so I’m not suddenly finding myself with 350 points of sales closed and rents to pay. I thought if this ever happens again, I need to have that resilience that I can shoulder it, so I built up a war chest of finance that’s there for unforeseen circumstances. And that makes me feel restful and peaceful within.

Linda Pilkington

IMAGE: Ormonde Jayne

You can’t prepare for all eventualities, but at least have something to fall back on. Linda, I was reading on the website that Madame Rochas had a big influence on you in terms of your love of fragrance. Do you still love it? [Gets up and brings a Madame Rochas box to the screen]. Or can you find a bottle there? Ah, there it is.

Just my little reminder. It’s not the love for the perfume by a long shot. It’s just literally that moment where I’m a little girl, I like fragrance, but I’m on The Body Shop White Musk at this point in my life. My mum gave me that Rochas bottle mainly because she’d been given it by a man and she didn’t think it was proper to accept a perfume from a man, given that she was a married woman.

Linda Pilkington - Madame Rochas

It was a beautiful big bottle – heavy, crystal glass, lovely cognac colour – and it looked so optically smart in my bedroom on my dressing table. I always wanted to have beautiful things in my bedroom, which I used to pay for myself.

When I visited the Biba department store in London – all black, gold, purple, peacock feathers, stalks on the roof in the roof gardens – I was so blown away, I wanted my bedroom to look like a Biba boutique.

My Madame Rochas perfume really fitted the bill and I thought it would be great to have more perfume bottles around my bedroom. Then my mum’s friends gave me all theirs and slowly but surely, I had this lovely collection of perfume bottles, which, at that point for me, was all about aesthetics.

And then, of course, somebody says, “Well, which one’s your favourite?”, so then you start smelling them all and I got into this whole thing of going to department stores and getting samples. And in those days the sample was made in the same style as the bottle. I was an expert on how to con the sales assistants out of these samples, poor women. They thought this girl knows what she’s talking about, so we will give her some samples. I used to collect all these tiny bottles, which I’ve still got today, and it kind of went on from there. This passion happenstance and that was the result of it.

Biba

BIBA LIFE: Twiggy at Biba, Kensington High Street, 1960s, photographer unknown. Various labels and price tags from Biba, early 1970s, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

I can’t think of a better way to start with such a special fragrance. Let’s talk about working with Geza Schoen, the perfumer who’s created a lot of your releases. Why has that been such a successful collaboration so far?

We both go back a long time, 23 years – it was a match made in heaven and good timing.

Geza was working for a big German company, Haarmann & Reimer, and wanted to do his own thing. He popped into the shop one day, introduced himself and told me what he needed. As it turned out, he lived five minutes away from my studio and when he saw it, he said, “Can I actually make my perfume here?” So I said, “Yeah, of course. Why not? You’re welcome.” We kind of became friends because of that. He was there for about two years, but not every day.

Geza Schoen

Because he had the training and I knew the technical-legal side – the dos and don’ts, where you get bottles from, where you get that made – it was good for both of us.

“I had an idea of what I wanted to do, which was to use ingredients nobody else was using and to give people an option if they came into the boutique.” – Linda Pilkington

I had an idea of what I wanted to do, which was to use ingredients nobody else was using and to give people an option if they came into the boutique. If they said I like cedarwood, I would say I’ve got hemlock. And if they wanted jasmine, I’ve got sampaguita. I had been on a lot of trips looking for unusual ingredients, sometimes successful, sometimes not.

Geza saved me a lot of time and effort when he told me these are speciality oils – far more expensive because they’re in small quantities and the big companies can’t use them because they don’t make enough of it. And you can contact companies and ask them for their list of speciality oils.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand EDP

So that’s what I did, and then suddenly they came through on the fax machine, all these speciality oils, and I was really excited. The first thing that came out said hemlock and I said, “I’m having that straight away.”

We’re very different in personalities, which, in a way, is a good thing because we’re not copying each other. Geza is very much his own person and not wanting to be dealing with complications like a shop. He thought I was nuts spending so much money on perfumes and on ingredients that might not be available one year.

When Geza went back to Berlin, he still stayed in touch – in fact, we were exchanging yesterday and the day before. Now, I’ve maintained my vision and, of course, I still want to use certain ingredients and so I had to find some of my own suppliers farther afield. So he doesn’t mind if I do my own thing when we make perfumes for, let’s say, Fenwick, Harrods, Selfridges, the department stores, they only want maybe 200 bottles, 300 bottles. So we do it ourselves, in-house, and that works very well.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Ta'if Elixir

There’s lots of inspiration happening and you take it quite freely from London, your travels. Do you ever struggle with that?

No [she says emphatically]. My brain doesn’t stop churning. I take inspiration from everything, Richard. I used to have a camera, but now I just use my phone. Before all the security with airports, I always had a little pair of scissors so I could snip things.

I’ve got pages and pages of names of perfumes that don’t even exist yet. They’re just beautiful names that we like (my husband’s very good at this too) that we know we could find ingredients to make a perfume.

And so I’m constantly collating and bringing together all different walks of life. I’ve got literally books and books and books and pages and pages and photographs and photographs and file files, files, files, files of everything. I’ve got enough to last about 100 years [laughs].

“I’ve got enough inspiration to last about 100 years.” – Linda Pilkington 

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Tolu EDP

LINDA PILKINGTON ON…
ORMONDE JAYNE FOUR CORNERS OF THE EARTH COLLECTION

We’ve got Qi, the breath of life of the Chinese, Tsarina for the opulence of Russian ladies, Nawab of Oudh to celebrate the intelligence of the Nawabs of India, and then we had the Montabacos of South America, the tango, the leather, the cowboys, the cigars and everything.

The Four Corners of the Earth is actually about London, embracing the rich diversity and all the rich cultures. The whole world lives in London. We learn from them and they learn from us.

That was with Geza Schoen.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Montabaco Intensivo Parfum

ORMONDE JAYNE LA ROUTE DE LA SOIE COLLECTION

The Silk Roads: A New History of the World by Peter Frankopan was a book that I read just before lockdown. A great education for me about all the merchants coming out of China through Constantinople, Babylonia, to Europe, to Florence, to the markets and bringing gun powder, mathematics, silk and their silkworms.

The Silk Roads: A New History of the World

IMAGE: The Folio Society.

Off the back of that I thought I would love to learn more about the Silk Road flowers, trees, shrubs. It became a bit of a road map on my kitchen table, all these different areas – the Levant, Babylonia, Tanger – and ingredients.

I did that project with two guys and two ladies from Expressions Parfumées in Grasse, because it was complicated and it was more than one perfume. We work with a combination of people, but always using a house palette.

“We work with a combination of people, but always using a house palette.” – Linda Pilkington

Ormonde Jayne La Route de la Soie Collection

IMAGE: Ormonde Jayne.

ORMONDE JAYNE ELIXIR COLLECTION

We always want something for everybody and people kept saying we want something stronger.

For the Elixir Collection, we picked Osmanthus because we noticed that if we pulled the osmanthus for 42%, you could smell nuances in it that the 30% EDP didn’t have. As well as obviously the longevity, it just changed a little bit. So you have the option to show somebody this is at 30%, this is it at 42%. They could do the Pepsi Challenge and decide which one is for them. We did the same with the Ambre Royal EDP and Royal Elixir.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Ambre Royal EDP

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if we mixed with pure Cambodian oud for the elixir. We have an oud trader and we buy Cambodian oud from this particular gentleman. And we have that checked with the chemist to make sure it’s pure, the real thing, before we pay the bill. It’s quite strong and we do that in our studio.

ORMONDE JAYNE ISFARKAND EDP AND ELIXIR

One of our best-selling perfumes, a short formula, and originally made for my husband when he was 40 years old. He got so many compliments on it, I had to bring it into the range.

When it came to the Isfarkand Elixir, we couldn’t use the pink pepper in the quantity I wanted to use it in due to IFRA (International Fragrance Association) rules, so Geza and I went back to the original (what we called the “Velvet Underground” formula) and put that at 42% without the pink pepper top note.

Some stores are wanting exclusivity on it, so maybe we’re going to make changes: these shops have it, nobody else has it, because they sell the most and that’s what clients want.

Like I said, we can move quickly, we don’t have to have lots of board meetings or anything like that. We can just have a five-minute conversation and decide let’s do it.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand EDP

ORMONDE JAYNE TA’IF EDP

Back in the day, you couldn’t just buy a ticket and get a visa. You had to have an invitation from a company or a family in Saudi Arabia approved by their ministry first. And then, of course, you had to think about how you’re going to conduct yourself as a woman – separate accommodation, clothing, a chaperone.

When I got to Arabia and the aeroplane door opened, there was this real different scent in the air. There are lots of date palm trees there, so I was given a lovely date drink when I got to my hotel and a beautifully decorated box of dried dates next to the bed in my room. At my meeting, lots of beautiful oranges and fruits were all sliced up.

In the gardens of the Al-Raddaf Park was a celebration of the Taif rose [the damask rose varietal, grown in the Taif region of the country, is celebrated annually during the Taif Rose Festival]. The people pick the petals themselves, their baskets get weighed and the king gives money that day to his subjects. The little petals get poured into a distillation and on the other side of the park, you see the oil coming down into cauldrons.

“It meant something very special to me. Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was everything that I felt from that beautiful trip.” – Linda Pilkington

It meant something very special to me. So Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was taif oil with date oil with orange blossom. Everything that I felt from that beautiful trip.

Linda Pilkington - Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

Now you can just fly to Saudi Arabia, by the way, it’s changed completely. It was wonderful then as well, but everything was a little more exciting and mysterious.

Ormonde Jayne fragrance are available in South Africa from Galeries de Parfums

Eau de Colognes: Timeless Elegance + Even Ridiculously Cheap

Eau de Colognes - L.T. Piver A La Reine des Fleurs Eau de Cologne

You want something refreshing, elegant and often brilliantly priced. I’ve got the perfect scent solutions for you: the best eau de colognes.

Eau de Colognes - L'Artisan Parfumeur Sur L'Herbe Eau de Cologne

If parfum is the highest concentration, then eau de colognes are at the opposite end of the spectrum with the lowest amount of oils at 2 to 4%. They’re mostly about freshness and tend not to last more than a few hours. With their classic, timeless, elegant vibe, who could say no to that?

Eau de Colognes - Detaille Cherubin Eau de Cologne

“Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time.”

Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time. Eau de colognes are the ideal antidote to global warming heat and as some of my examples here illustrate, they can be remarkably cheap, so top up when needed.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Eau de Colognes - Bien-etre L'Original Lavande de Provence Eau de Cologne

L.T. PIVER A LA REINE DES FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE (MICHEL ADAM)

The French company has the distinction of launching the first aldehydic fragrance, L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or, in 1889, quite some time before the most famous example in the genre, Chanel No 5.

Founded in 1774, it’s also one of the oldest houses of French perfumery, although only perfume-geeks are aware of its existence and yours truly can’t find a functional website to learn more about it. According to niche retailer Jovoy, it seems A la Reine des Fleurs takes its name from the perfume store founded by Michel Adam in Paris in 1774.

The freshness of citrus notes of lemon, orange and bergamot leads the way to the aromatics of lavender and rosemary. Thyme gives it a touch of herbal depth and I love how the spicy note of cloves – warm, woody, earthy, softly sweet – lingers in the background.

It’s sold in a splash cologne format and bottles as large as 423ml for the equivalent of $40. You read right. That’s not a typo.

Eau de Colognes - L.T. Piver A La Reine des Fleurs Eau de Cologne

4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)

From the relative obscurity of L.T. Piver A la Reine des Fleurs to one many of us will recognise from the fragrance repertoire of our parents. Apparently still made according to a secret recipe from 1792 (yes, it’s been around that long), it’s earned its iconic reputation for good reason.

Its attraction is evident from the start with pronounced notes of orange, bergamot and neroli proclaiming, “You’re onto something special.” Lavender and rosemary contribute aromatic appeal to this blend that’s more than a fragrance – it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic.

The 4711 Remix range – Urban Summer (2020), Festival Vibes (2021), Exotic Paradise (2022), Sparkling Island (2023) – is well worth checking out if you want a more youthful spin on the theme.

Eau de Colognes - 4711 Original Eau de Cologne

DETAILLE CHÉRUBIN EAU DE COLOGNE

That’s what friends are for…

I’m not singing the Dionne Warwick and co hit from the 1980s. I’m thanking my good mate Andre (and his sister Renée who regularly buys him this one whenever he runs out of it) for introducing me to this relatively unknown gem. It’s from the Paris-based house that’s been around since 1905 (apparently named after the countess of Presle’s husband, Edouard Detaille) and now owned by Louis Pallier.

There’s the requisite freshness from bergamot, lemon, orange blossom and rose, but what really stands out for me is the spicy muskiness and powdery heliotropin in the drydown.

Based on this one, I’m keen to try Detaille Fleur EDC and Detaille Paradisii EDC. Next time I’m in Paris…

Eau de Colognes - Detaille Cherubin Eau de Cologne

BIENÊTRE L’ORIGINAL LAVANDE DE PROVENCE EAU DE COLOGNE

On my recent visit to Mauritius, I picked up a bottle of this stuff for three reasons:

+ It’s the very definition of cheap ’n cheerful.

+ It reminds me of my mother.

+ This 1965 release delivers lavender in camphor-ish style with herbal support from rosemary. Although on the rough and ready side, it’s a French pharmacy staple.

If splash cologne is not your style, simply decant the contents of the 250ml or 500ml into a smaller spray bottle for easier application. Also look out for Bien-Être L’Original Naturelle EDC, Bien-Être L’Original Rose EDC and Bien-Être L’Original Fraîche EDC.

Eau de Colognes - Bien-etre L'Original Lavande de Provence Eau de Cologne

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia still has much to offer. A lot of that has to do with the way this scent conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.

It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a woody base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.

An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.

Eau de Colognes - Acqua di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR SUR L’HERBE EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

In all the hype (and there’s plenty of it nowadays), it’s easy to forget the original niche pioneer L’Artisan Parfumeur founded by Jean Laporte, which paved the way for many others from the 1970s onwards. The Paris-based house added more eau de colognes to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results.

Taking its name from the Manet masterpiece, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (the one that caused a scandal in the 1860s with its depiction of a naked woman picnicking with two fully clothed gents), there’s nothing shocking about this EDC.

Instead, its inspiration comes through in an impressionistic style with brightly green notes of bergamot and neroli. Wafts of musk give it clean sensuality.

Also look out for L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Baies EDC, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 9 EDC and L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Fleurs EDC.

Eau de Colognes - L'Artisan Parfumeur Sur L'Herbe Eau de Cologne

BERDOUES CITRON CAVIAR EAU DE COLOGNE

The Grasse-based family-owned company’s range of EDCs always hit the spot (I also recommend Berdoues Figue Blanche EDC and Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC).

A 2021 release, Citron Caviar opens with the refreshing, almost lemon-y tones of verbena, with citric touches of bergamot in the background. It goes in a floral direction with a softly sweet take on orange blossom given an aquatic treatment. The vetiver-musk drydown completes what seems an effortless uplifter.

Clean, crisp and oh so chic.

Eau de Colognes - Berdoues Citron Caviar Eau de Cologne

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I started wearing this 2022 addition to the French luxury brand’s quality-assured Colognes Collection in winter because I’m not particularly seasonal when it comes to fragrances but must admit it pops in all sorts of wonderful ways in the heat.

Opening with the sparkling citric freshness of Calabrian bergamot, it doesn’t take long for the star of the show, green basil, to make its entrance (FYI: the name of the scent references purple basil, the original inspiration for in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, but that variety can’t be distilled). Yes, it’s fresh and herbal, but Nagel shows its aromatic and subtly spicy facets too, supported by the greenery of geranium. Light touches of patchouli and spice conclude this beauty with musky warmth.

If you tell me I smell like a Mediterranean salad, I’ll take that as a compliment, thank you.

Eau de Colognes - Hermes Eau de Basilic Poupre Eau de Cologne

*Available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

Jean Jacques Interview: “I Often Start From The Caron Legacy To Make New Creations”

Jean Jacques

IMAGE: Caron.

Good things come to those who wait, it is said. And after several months of delays and apologetic emails, my interview with Jean Jacques, Caron in-house perfumer, came to be. Not that the man needed to apologise. It’s been a “crazy few years” since he joined the house in 2018. And it’s only now that he’s getting a chance to breathe and do some interviews in-between.

Jean Jacques

IMAGE: Caron.

First, some essential background to Caron and Jean Jacques. The house was founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. Together with creative director Félicie Wanpouille, the self-taught perfumer produced numerous all-time classics, including Caron Narcisse Noir Parfum (1911), Caron N’Aimez Que Moi Parfum (1916), Caron Tabac Blond Parfum (1919) and Caron Pour un Homme de Caron EDT (1934), that established the house’s impeccable credentials as one of the greats of French perfumery.

Caron N'Aimez Que Moi Parfum

IMAGE: Caron.

As a Jew and with the rise of the Nazis, Ernest Daltroff escaped to America (he died in 1947), leaving Caron in the capable hands of Félicie Wanpouille until 1967. And while the house never quite disappeared and continued to produce standouts, it certainly lost its way and allure for quite some time.

Caron Narcisse Noir Parfum

IMAGE: Caron.

Which brings us to the acquisition of the brand in 2018 by Ariane and Benjamin de Rothschild through their investment firm Cattleya Finance. A savvy businesswoman, one of Ariane de Rothschild’s first decisions was to employ Jean Jacques as in-house perfumer.

Caron Tabac Blond Parfum

IMAGE: Caron.

Jean Jacques was on his way to a career in music when a friend told him about ISIPCA, the renowned perfumery school in Versailles. That career change eventually took him to Japan where he worked for the fragrance and flavour company Takasago.

Jean Jacques

IMAGE: Caron.

While Jean Jacques can’t quite recall his fine fragrance debut (probably Mariella Burani Amuleti EDT in 1999), there’s no doubting his admiration for his mentor Pierre Bourdon, the great perfumer behind classics such as Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EDT, Davidoff Cool Water EDT, Montblanc Individuel EDT, Frédéric Malle French Lover EDP and Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP.

Before joining Caron, Jean Jacques had notched up several successes of his own, including Christian Lacroix C’est la Fête! EDP (2007), Kenzo Eau de Fleur de Soie EDT (2008), Oriflame Love Potion EDP (2011), Givenchy Gentleman Only EDT (2013), Courrèges Hyperbole EDP (2016) and Davidoff Cool Water Wave EDT (2017).

Givenchy Gentleman Only EDT

IMAGE: Givenchy.

If you want to know just how busy he’s been since joining Caron, look at the company’s website. Through all the recent releases – “perhaps too many,” he admits – and various collections, the message is clear. Caron is back in business.

Jean Jacques - Caron Vetiver Infini EDP

When we get to chat, he’s at home and animated about all things Caron. Even though English is not his first language, Jean Jacques speaks fast, eloquently and with much knowledge about the house and ingredients. We talk about his dynamic with Ariane de Rothschild, the challenge of making Caron relevant to a contemporary market and various fragrances.

Jean Jacques - Caron Vetiver Infini EDP + Caron Fleur de Rocaille EDP

Your relationship with Ariane de Rothschild is an integral part of Caron. What can you tell us about her?

She knows everything that’s nice in the world, art, she’s a collector. She’s in contact every day with beauty in terms of art, photography, sculpture, painting. Yet she can say, “Wow!” and, “C’est magnifique!” [“It’s magnificent!”]

“This meeting of passion is something that really excites me. There’s a lot of energy, creation and experimentation.”

She’s obviously very passionate about Caron. Something you both have in common…

Oui, oui, this meeting of passion is something that really excites me. There’s a lot of energy, creation and experimentation. Perhaps we did launch too many fragrances in the four years. But now we come back with less, we take more time, but we still have the same passion and energy.

Jean Jacques - Caron Santal Precieux EDP

There’s a magnificent heritage to Caron, which started with Ernest Daltroff in 1904. One of your challenges must be to make Caron relevant to a contemporary market. Some might think Caron is old school, old fashioned. How do you get that balance? It can’t be easy?

No, you’re right. I often start from the legacy to make new creations. For example, the collection of Tabac, because there’s Tabac Blond, we make Tabac Noir EDP, then Tabac Exquis EDP and last year Tabac Blanc EDP.

Because of the first one, Tabac Blond Parfum, which is more than 100 years old, I start with the idea of creating a collection of modern tobacco fragrances.

The same with Poivre Sacré EDP. Caron launched a fragrance called Poivre in 1954. Because of that, I make Poivre Sacré EDP, pushing it even further – the level of oils, the balsams, the cumin, the saffron, the spices – to make an explosive fragrance. Starting from the heritage, I created something totally new.

Jean Jacques - Caron Poivre Sacre EDP

Also with Caron Pour un Homme de Caron EDT, lavender and vanilla, which was created in 1934. I take the lavender but create something new with Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Le Matin EDT and Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Le Soir EDP. For the morning, Le Matin, I use lavandin oil and the latest technology, CO2 ginger extract.

For the evening, Le Soir, I use a very nice essence of lavender from Provence. You know, we now have our very own field of lavender in the south of France for Pour Un Homme, but I mix that oil with oakwood extract, which is a totally new ingredient. So once again the legacy but mixed with new ingredients.

Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Trio

IMAGE: Caron.

Sometimes, though, I make something totally new that’s not directly linked to the history of Caron. For example, Caron Musc Oli EDT, which I did with Oliva de Rothschild, featuring the synthetic ingredients Cashmeran FF and Javanol. Normally at Caron, we use lots of natural ingredients but for this one we still used the best synthetics.

The link with Caron is the adventurous spirit. And now Musc Oli is one of our best-sellers. This means this brand can go far in terms of modernity, as long as the story is good.

Caron Musc Oli EDT

IMAGE: Caron.

I haven’t tried it yet but have tried Tabac Exquis and Rose Ebène de Caron, which have a gourmand aspect…

Those are also good examples of how I mix history and modernity.

For Tabac Exquis, for instance, a natural extraction of tobacco, cacao and a chocolate accord, which is not natural, but we can recreate the smell of chocolate through molecules.

Jean Jacques - Caron Rose Ebene de Caron EDP

I love the way you haven’t done obvious gourmands. Are you a gourmand man yourself?

Non [smiles]. But one of the first fragrances we launched was Aimez-Moi Comme Je Suis EDT [2020], a masculine mix of vetiver and hazelnut. I used hazelnut because it’s gourmand but not sugary. There’s too much sugar on the market. It’s important to find our way to be gourmandise.

Jean Jacques - Caron Tabac Exquis EDP

I wanted to ask you about the one I’m wearing now, Caron Pois de Senteur Parfum, originally created by Ernest Daltroff in 1927, and inspired by the floral sweat pea. How did you approach this recreation?

Oui, oui, it’s more the name that’s important here because sweet pea doesn’t smell strong. Pois de Senteur is an olfactive bomb. There’s a huge amount of natural jasmine and honey molecule in this fragrance. It’s very popular in the Middle East.

“As with all our classics and masterpieces, I had to make a new formulation that respects the IFRA regulations.”

Of course, as with all our classics and masterpieces, I had to make a new formulation that respects the IFRA regulations. What I did for this one and Tabac Blond, Pour un Homme and Narcisse de Noir, each time I worked with the technical support of IFF, the big fragrance creation company, I ask them to analyse the original fragrance.

Jean Jacques - Caron Pois de Senteur Parfum

So I took the 1927 one to make sure it’s legislatively okay. Instead of going with the last version before Caron was bought by Ariane, which had been adapted several times already, I preferred to start with the first one of Daltroff to make sure it’s as close as possible.

For Tabac Blond, natural oakmoss extraction had disappeared from the formulation. A chypre is not a chypre without oakmoss. I brought back the oakmoss absolute in the formula of Tabac Blond.

Jean Jacques - Caron Pois de Senteur Parfum

With IFRA regulations, you must be so careful with ingredients like oakmoss…

Oakmoss is permitted, but you need to make a change to the extraction because the molecule in the ingredient, atranol, is forbidden. So you have to use natural extraction of oakmoss, what we call low atranol, to decrease the concentration of the molecule. If you do that, using oakmoss absolute is not an issue.

The last few years have been intense for you. Do you get time to yourself? Or is perfumery all-consuming?

Oui, oui, you know, I love my job, I think perfume 24 hours a day, seven days a week. But I still have time for making music, my family and golf. I’m just back from England for a big golf tournament, as I’m crazy about the sport. It’s a busy week, I would say, but okay, I’m a lucky guy.

Jean Jacques - Caron Santal Precieux EDP

Music is one of your great loves. Have you ever regretted not following that career path?

I decided to give my life to perfumery and it gave me back a lot more. I have my piano over there and play it with my daughter. I can still do my music, and I do, so I’m very happy to give so much energy to perfumery.

Jean Jacques - Caron Tabac Exquis EDP

One last question, the new collection, Les Colognes Sublimes, which has just been launched…

In fact, last year, but we’re focusing on it now. It’s a collection of five really nice colognes. Five [he emphasises and laughs].

We love their names, inspired by French poetry, even if they are a bit complicated. Champ Bleu du Ciel [from Georges Bataille’s poem of the same name] is not easy to say, especially if you’re not French. L’Invitation Au Voyage comes from the poem by Charles Baudelaire.

Olfactively, they’re really good. L’Invitation Au Voyage, for example, combines violet leaf and cinnamon. It doesn’t sound like they should work together but they do.

Caron Les Colognes Sublimes

IMAGE: Caron.

Are they eau de colognes? I haven’t tried them but from what I’ve read, they’re stronger than conventional colognes.

You’re right. We called them colognes to explain there’s a lot of freshness, but it is not eau de colognes in the historical sense of being concentrated at four to five percent, lots of citrus and not lasting long.

Ivre de Liberté Cologne Sublime, for example, is concentrated at 18%. So there is freshness at the concentration of eau de toilette or eau de parfum. They last longer and are real fragrances with real signatures.

Caron Ivre de Liberté Cologne Sublime

IMAGE: Caron.

Caron fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics

Dior Dioriviera EDP Review: Expectation & Reality

Dior Dioriviera EDP

Why is there so much interest in the 2023 release Dior Dioriviera EDP? Yes, it’s the latest launch from the upmarket, quality-assured La Collection Privée Christian Dior.

Dior Dioriviera EDP

But more than that, it’s the first creation from Francis Kurkdjian as the revered luxury French brand’s in-house perfumer. So not surprisingly, there’s going to be much scrutiny of this fragrance.

TALKING FRAGRANCE: Yours truly with Francis Kurkdjian when he was in Cape Town in 2019.

PERFUMER

Francis Kurkdjian made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male EDT in 1995 at the age of 26. This was followed by numerous other high-profile scents, including:

+ Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999)

+ Giorgio Armani Armani Mania EDT (2002)

+ Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005)

+ Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier2 EDP (2005)

+ Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance EDP (2006)

+ Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007)

+ Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011)

+ Carven L’Eau Intense EDT (2016)

+ Burberry Mr. Burberry EDT (2016)

+ Kenzo World EDP (2016)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT

In between, in 2009, he and former Ernst & Young associate Marc Chaya founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most popular and respected niche houses in the fragrance biz. Under that banner, he’s notched up many more favourites such as Aqua Universalis EDT (2009), Masculin Pluriel EDT (2014), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015), Grand Soir EDP (2016) and Gentle Fluidity Silver EDP (2019). Oh, and you might have heard of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP (2015).

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte EDP

In 2021, the fragrance world got extremely excited indeed when it was announced that the multi-award-winning Parisian would succeed François Demachy as Dior in-house perfumer. And ever since then, there’s been much anticipation and speculation about when his first creation in the prestigious position would materialise.

PS: Dior Dioriviera EDP isn’t the first scent Francis Kurkdjian has created for the brand (also owned by LVMH). He also produced Dior Cologne Blanche EDP (2004), Dior Eau Noire EDP (2004) and Dior Homme Cologne EDT (2007).

Dior Dioriviera EDP

SO WHAT DOES DIOR DIORIVIERA EDP SMELL LIKE?

Is that fig? Yes, sirree! The note can range from the tropical to the gourmand. Here, it’s fresh, woody and unmistakably green.

If you’re familiar with the perfumer’s creations for his own eponymous brand – for example, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Homme EDT (2009), Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP (2014) and Maison Francis Kurkdjian L’Homme À la Rose EDP (2020) – you’ll know he knows his way around the floral. In Dior Dioriviera EDP, it’s not prominent but adds to the overall fruity-floral effect.  

Maison Francis Kurkdjian L'Homme a la Rose EDP

As with all fragrances from the range, you’ll be paying a fair amount for it. But when you do the arithmetic and if you go for the 125ml bottle (it’s also available in 40ml and 250ml), it’s competitively priced compared to many niche equivalents.

The 2021 release Dior Eden-Roc EDP riffed on the French Riviera theme and Dior Dioriviera does that too in a clean and chic way.

Dior Dioriviera EDP

Looking for a beastly banger? Move on. But if you’re looking for understated French elegance, please do stay. That said, this scent could bring you lots of compliments, as I discovered on my first day of wearing it. More importantly, you will feel incredibly pleased with yourself for being so refined and the epitome of stealth wealth.

Dior Dioriviera EDP is available in South Africa from the brand website and the Christian Dior store in Sandton City.

The House of Oud: 5 Of The Best From The Italian Niche House

The House of Oud Crop 22 EDP

What came first: the scent or the egg? Bear with me. This question will make more sense as I get into this post about one of the more distinctive niche brands to have emerged in recent years, The House of Oud (THoO).

The House of Oud Blessing Silence EDP

The point of difference starts with founder Andrea Casotti, a nuclear engineer, CEO of Creative Flavours & Fragrances and perfumer (the Italian has also created fragrances for Moresque Parfum, Jovoy and Anima Mundi). Since its founding in 2016, THoO has given Andrea Casotti an abundant creative outlet for his love of raw materials, music and art.

The House of Oud - Andrea Casotti

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

Niche brand founders will often bang on about the artistry of perfumery and in the case of THoO, that comes through absolutely in the egg-shaped bottle designs (all hand-painted and clearly not to be chucked out when you’ve savoured every last drop of their contents).

The House of Oud - Andrea Casotti

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

The high standard of THoO releases through various collections (Universe THoO, The Crop, Royal Stones, Desert Days, Klem Garden and Crazy) dispels any notions of artifice at the expense of quality. Coming back to my question at the start of this post, this is my (admittedly roundabout way) of saying both are equally important when it comes to this Italian company.

The oud part of the brand’s name reveals another intriguing element to the story: the role of THoO co-founder Mohammed Abu Nashi (aka the “Oud Hunter”), an Indonesian-based oud producer who brings his expertise in the precious ingredient to the equation.

The House of Oud - Mohammed Abu Nashi

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

While earlier releases mostly focused on it, other launches show the diversity of the house. Those that do feature oud do so without overpowering the other materials and assaulting your senses.

This selection should give you a good idea of the variety the house has to offer.

THE HOUSE OF OUD BLESSING SILENCE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

How well do you know your classic combos? Black and white. Check. Tom and Jerry. Check. Caramel and salt. Check. Oud and rose… Yip, this 2016 release from the Desert Days Collection (one of the house’s launch perfumes) is a variation on the ever-popular theme but has more quality than most.

Earthy hints of labdanum and patchouli give way to a harmonious musky-licious oud-rose combo, with the creaminess of sandalwood in support.

It’s a minimalist affair that allows the character of the ingredients to shine. The result is as serene as its name.

The House of Oud Blessing Silence EDP

THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

At first, this 2016 release from the Desert Days Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance.

All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).

There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.

The House of Oud Breath of the Infinite EDP

THE HOUSE OF OUD WHAT ABOUT POP EDP (CRISTIAN CALABRÒ)

What about it, you might ask. This 2019 release from the Universe THoO Collection might not be the first popcorn fragrance – it, er, pops up in everything from Paco Rabanne Pure XS For Her EDP (2018) to Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013). But it certainly takes it to another level of indulgent deliciousness.

The note makes its presence felt from the beginning. It’s salty and caramelised. What could be a one-dimensional trick is given floral touches of honeyed hawthorn and spicy night-blooming cereus. And then there’s the extras of creamy vanilla and an amber accord in which the warmth of benzoin stands out with its balsamic tones.

It’s so good, this is the one time I’ll tolerate you munching popcorn in my ears. Want more gourmand treats in the style the house does so well? Then I also recommend the 2016 releases The House of Oud Almond Harmony EDP and The House of Oud Dates Delight EDP.

The House of Oud What About Pop EDP

THE HOUSE OF OUD NEVERENDING EDP (DOUGLAS MOREL)

An appropriate name for this 2021 release from the Universe THoO Collection that lingers on the skin long after application.

The opening sees a reserved take on fresh pink grapefruit mingling with the earthy spiciness of nutmeg and black pepper. Cumin can be problematic (some people experience it as sweaty), but perfumer Douglas Morel ensures it doesn’t steal the show from the white floral notes of tuberose and jasmine. Their sensuality is enhanced with the powderiness of a suede accord and dollops of black vanilla.

The persistent aspect must be due to the presence of cypriol oil and guaiac wood, with their leathery properties, in the drydown. What could have been animalic overload is admirably restrained yet impactful.

The House of Oud Neverending EDP

THE HOUSE OF OUD CROP 22 EDP

Since the house’s founding in 2016, annual limited editions from The Crop Collection have featured quality certified oud from Mohammed Abu Nashi’s harvest.

“Limited editions” are open to interpretation but if all the “out of stocks” on the brand’s website and numbered editions on the bottom of the bottles are anything to go by, this is no deceptive marketing ploy.

The 2022 addition to the range (349 bottles and still available) presents the Arabic coffee tradition of qahwa in a rich and spicy style. A brew of dark, cacao-ish coffee beans is infused with the contrasts of fresh spiciness (aromatic cardamom alert, earthy nutmeg) and warm spiciness (powdery cinnamon, softly sweet cloves). There’s an element of greenery from mint. The oud (from Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo) never dominates but adds smoky woodiness to the blend.

Deeply satisfying stuff.

The House of Oud Crop 22 EDP

The House of Oud fragrances are available in the South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

Clement Gavarry Interview: “I Try To Use Naturals As Much As I Can, Because They Allow The Fragrance To Be More Alive”

Clement Gavarry

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

The career of Clement Gavarry (see his list of creations below) was doing very nicely, thank you. And then something happened in 2018 with the launch of Ariana Grande Cloud EDP that brought him to the attention of a much wider audience.

Clement Gavarry - Ariana Grande Cloud EDP

This mega-hit should come as no surprise to those who have followed the career of the Frenchman. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely EDP (co-created with Laurent le Guernec) is an earlier success of his from 2005 and he’s continued to progress over the years with a diverse selection of creations.

+ Matthew Williamson Jasmine Sambac EDP (2007)

+ Tom Ford Black Violet EDP (2007)

+ Elizabeth Arden Untold EDP (2013)

+ Roberto Cavalli Just Him EDT (2013)

+ Diana Vreeland Simply Divine EDP (2014)

+ Olfactive Studio Panorama EDP (2014)

+ Ostens Impression Jasmine Absolue EDP (2018)

+ Abercrombie & Fitch Authentic Man EDT (2019)

+ Guess 1981 Los Angeles Women EDT (2019)

+ Cher Eau de Couture EDP (2019)

+ Oscar de la Renta Bella Essence EDP (2020)

+ Estée Lauder Blushing Sands EDP (2021)

+ Kayali Eden Juicy Apple 01 EDP (2021)

+ MCM EDP (2021)

+ Boy Smells Les EDP (2023)

Clement Gavarry - Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely EDP

IMAGE: Coty Inc.

Despite my best attempts to get Clement Gavarry to reveal specific details about working with clients, especially the high-profile celebrities, he’s too much of a professional to fall for that and keeps it general. And he won’t be drawn into any discussion about supposed similarities between Ariana Grande Cloud and the hugely influential and popular Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540. Darn, I must be losing my touch!

Clement Gavarry

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

Today, none, because I am at work. As I work on so many scents at the same time, I can’t be distracted with what I am wearing.

That said, I normally wear the scents I am working on and in my free time, I love to wear Calvin Klein cK One EDT and Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme EDT – based on the occasions, of course. Another scent I’ve been loving to wear lately is Creed Aventus EDP.

Creed Aventus

Where did perfumery start for you?

It was something I grew up around and at age 15, I began doing annual fragrance-related internships where I really dove into analysing ingredients. I then went to ISIPCA [the French perfumery school] where I graduated with a Master’s in organic chemistry focused on chromatography.

“It made me feel like I was on a bit of a treasure hunt trying to unlock some of the mysteries for fragrances I knew.” – Clement Gavarry

This was an amazing way to learn about all kinds of ingredients from synthetics to naturals, and it also made me feel like I was on a bit of a treasure hunt trying to unlock some of the mysteries for fragrances I knew.

After my studies, I moved to NYC, where I still am today.

Clement Gavarry - Abercrombie & Fitch Authentic Man EDT

Your father, Max Gavarry, created classics such as Antonio Puig Quorum EDT (1981), Dior Dioressence EDT (1979) and Estée Lauder Beautiful EDP (1985). Was he a big influence on your decision to become a perfumer and did that come with its own pressures?

My father did not push me to become a perfumer. Growing up it was always a thing where people assumed it was what I would do, almost something I wanted to go against. But in the end, I independently fell in love with the scientific side of the industry.

Max Gavarry

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

You studied at ISIPCA. Was it a formative time for you?

The truth is I studied chemistry first and ISPICA was an added bonus, but my major was organic chemistry.

When I was at IPSICA, I spent most of my time, a good half or two-thirds of the year, doing internships and so that working experience was formative for me.

Clement Gavarry - Diana Vreeland Simply Divine EDP

IMAGE: Diana Vreeland Parfums.

What was your fine fragrance debut? What do you think of it now?

That was in 2004 when I worked on Prada Amber EDP with my mentor and my dad.

It’s still a beautiful fragrance, almost niche without even trying to be. It was a unique experience to work on this project, as there were people involved in this creation from all parts of the world.

Clement Gavarry - Prada Amber EDP

IMAGE: Prada.

Although your creations are obviously guided by briefs, what do you always try to give them? 

I try to use naturals as much as I can, because they allow the fragrance to be more alive and have a strong signature. They bring an element of surprise because the fragrance is living and there is a lot of chemistry happening within the formula that gives it that point of differentiation.

Clement Gavarry - Olfactive Studio Panorama EDP

IMAGE: Olfactive Studio.

I love Dolce & Gabbana Intenso EDP (2014). What can you tell us about the creation of this scent? 

This was a beautiful experience and also quite unique. They decided to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme EDT and because my dad created the original, they asked me to create the new iteration. I, of course, said yes, as I was thrilled to work on such a great scent and initiative.

Clement Gavarry - Dolce & Gabbana Intenso EDP

When did you move to NYC? Does working and living in such a dynamic environment bring something different to your creations?

I moved to NYC in the year 2000. Yes, of course, living in NYC inspires me because it is so dynamic and there is so much happening. Just walking around the city brings me a lot of inspiration; it is truly unlike anywhere else and one of the best places to find inspiration all around.

Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme EDT

IMAGE: Dolce & Gabbana.

You work for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavoUr company. Which of their ingredients / captive molecules do you particularly enjoy using?

I have always loved the dsm-firmenich palette of ingredients, even before working here [from 2000 to 2017, he worked for the American fragrance and flavor company IFF].

I love their captive molecules and this was a big reason why I joined them. The overall palette, from captives to musks, are ingredients I enjoy creating with.

Clement Gavarry - Oscar de la Renta Bella Essence EDP

IMAGE: Oscar de la Renta.

You’ve worked on several celebrity fragrances over the years. For example, Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely EDP (2005), Ariana Grande Cloud EDP (2018), Cher Eau de Couture EDP (2019) and Paris Hilton Love Rush EDP (2022). Is this a genre you enjoy working on? What makes it different to other projects?

There is always a strong connection when you have a celebrity involved in the development and creation, and in trying to translate what they are looking for into a fragrance. It’s nice to work together with them and talking through ingredients, for example, especially if they are interested in learning about the process, because this allows for good communication and a stronger connection.

“Celebrities don’t necessarily go for big blockbusters from the get-go.” – Clement Gavarry

Celebrities always have a different approach in the way they want to create their scents and don’t necessarily go for big blockbusters from the get-go.

Clement Gavarry - Cher Eau de Couture EDP

IMAGE: Cher.

Often, they rather focus on what scent represents them or on something that is dear to them and they have always dreamed about using in their fragrance. This makes the process less business-only and allows us freedom in creativity, which is something I enjoy.

 

MAURITIUS (3): SO MOODY

Moody Mountain

My last Mauritius post. Promise.

Moody Flowers

This one is moody. A bit like me.

Moody Palm

While a change of scenery can be good for you, the reality is you take your inherent temperament with you.

Moody Danielle Night Sky

Moody Above Clouds

Moody Lamp

Perhaps a new style in progress. Or not.

Moody Window

Technically these are not perfect. A tad grainy. But that’s why I like them.

Moody Rain

MAURITIUS (2): WHAT I WORE + A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCE SHOPPING ON THE ISLAND

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum EDP

As I hadn’t travelled abroad for quite some time, I’m blaming my notoriously bad packing (too much stuff, most of which I never wear) on that reality. Next time, I’m trying my cousin’s strategy of five of each items which, apart from simplifying my life, would have given me more suitcase space for Mauritius fragrance shopping. T-shirts, shorts, shirts, sarongs, flip-flops (and even swimming trunks, I’ll spare you those pics) became my best clothing friends. If you missed my first Ile Maurice post (island life in an impressionistic style), here’s the link.

I was far more disciplined when it came to packing my fragrance and skincare products, all of which I used regularly.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Mune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF 50+

HERMÈS UN JARDIN À CYTHÈRE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

The Parfums-Jardins Collection (“jardin” = garden in French) has impressed me with its quality and refinement since its launch in 2003 with Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée EDT.

Hermès Un Jardin a Cythère EDT

This 2023 addition maintains the standard I’ve come to expect from the range that takes its inspiration from secret gardens (this time, the Greek island of Cythera, also known as Kythira).

Hermès Un Jardin à Cythère EDT

It gets going with the freshness of citrus and woodiness of olive trees.
Coumarin is known for its grassy and nutty attributes, and there’s just enough of that here to contribute to the sunny ambience. Slightly salty and warm, the pistachio (increasingly popular in perfumery and cuisine) completes the escapist mood.

Where previous Jardins were characterised by degrees of lushness and greenery, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel wanted Un Jardin à Cythère to be neither green nor floral (I’ve taken creative licence here to include greenery and florals in my pics because it looks good). She realises that with deceptive ease.

Mauritius Flowers

The French luxury goods brand (FYI: Its value passed the €200 billion market value earlier this year for the first time, making it the world’s second-most valuable luxury brand after LVMH) does things differently in a subtle way. This EDT is a perfect example of that approach and will always remind me of my time away.

Hermès Un Jardin A Cythère EDT
NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM EDP (SERGE MAJOULLIER)

The French pharmacy brand doesn’t only offer quality skincare products. Its fragrance selection is impressive too. Whether you’re on holiday or not, this 2012 Serge Majoullier creation (inspired by the smell of the company’s cult Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse) is fabulous stuff.

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum EDP

The opening is fresh with the citrus of orange and bergamot, but not for long. There’s a lush white floral extravaganza via orange blossom and magnolia. Creamy vanilla and sandalwood, bordering on coconut, are given beach sandiness with skilful use of mineral effects. If that doesn’t sound like vacay vibes, sorry, your visa has been declined.

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum EDP

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ INVISIBLE FLUID PROTECTION

What’s a goth to do when there’s sun, sun, sun? Apart from hide under a hat and avoid the rays (kind of difficult on a tropical island), time to slather on one of the best SPFs I’ve tried in a long time.

Me Cap

My sister gave this to me before I departed for Mauritius. So glad she did. It’s non-greasy, non-sticky, easily absorbed formula is made with La Roche-Posay thermal spring water.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Mune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF 50+

NUXE BIO

My mood wasn’t the only prickly thing before my break. My skin was showing the effects of stress and not looking after myself properly.

Started using Reviving Eye Care Anti-Puffiness, Anti-Dark Circles; Glow Rich Moisturising Cream 24h (neroli scented!); Essential Antioxidant Serum; and Radiance Detox Mask from the French pharmacy brand’s Bio range shortly after I arrived and have continued to use it since getting back to South Africa.

Prickly

Apart from their organic credentials (*see below), thumbs up to these products for smoother, more moisturised skin.

*FYI (from the brand website): Certified organic by Ecocert, the formulas contain an average of 99% natural-origin ingredients and an average of 63% cosmetic ingredients from organic farming, in comparison with the required minimum of 20% certified organic ingredients out of the total required ingredients depending on the product category and COSMOS charter.

Nuxe Bio Range

BERDOUES VERVEINE YUZU EDC

I instinctively knew I was going to need something refreshing and rejuvenating and with temperatures of 25°C+, I was chuffed with myself for bringing this 2016 release from the family-owned French brand. I chucked it in my everyday bag and it went everywhere with me when I needed a cooling spritz. Which was often and around the clock. See goth problems above.

Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC

It’s simplicity itself with notes of verbena (lemony-clean), yuzu (tart and green) and musk (for a bit of longevity, but not too much, it’s an EDC, after all, but so reasonably priced, just spray some more.)

My only complaint: I wish the company would share the name of the perfumer who created this gem, as it does with the releases from its Collection Grands Crus.

Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC

BERDOUES FREESIA & COTON EDT

When I was in the mood for something warmer and more sensual, this 2019 release did the trick rather nicely.

It starts out all citrus-y with notes of bergamot and orange. The florals of freesia and jasmine add to the freshness. The cotton effect from the scent’s name is achieved through some clever lab work and accentuated with the enveloping woodiness of the synthetic Cashmeran and white musk.

Berdoues Freesia & Coton EDT

CITRONELLA

If you asked me to sum up the smells of the island, it would include words like salty, marine, curry, floral, spicy, piment (the green chilli paste), Phoenix beer (especially when offered so early in the day and as I was on vacay, merci beaucoup). And citronella.

Phoenix Beer

I doused myself in one of the local mosquito repellents but alas, the critters still wouldn’t leave me alone.

MAURITIUS FRAGRANCE SHOPPING

If South Africa is a blip on the global fragrance market, Mauritius is but a speck of sand. When I got home I realised all the island’s fragrance retail outlets would still be outnumbered by those in my local shopping mall. Obvious conclusion: You don’t go to Mauritius for fragrance shopping but don’t let that stop you from indulging in this essential activity.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Labell EDC

SUPERMARKETS

In convenience stores (increasingly common), such as Intermart, London Way and Winners, you’ll discover eaux de cologne from brands such as Bien-être, Berdoues, Labell and L.T. Piver, all brilliantly priced. At the time of writing this, you’d be able to get your hands on 250ml of Bien-être L’Original Lavande de Provence EDC for roughly R130 / $7 / £5 / €6.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Bien-etre EDC

You’ll also find cheapies from brands such as Ulric de Varens. Don’t be put off by the lack of glamour and style in the way these are presented in-store. Apart from their value for money, EDCs are perfect for the island’s climate and lifestyle: splash and go.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Various Brands

PHARMACIES

Depending which one, you’ll find brands such as L’Occitane en Provence, Roger & Gallet and Yves Rocher.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - L'Occitane en Provence Lavande EDC

MADO

The chain Mado offers a more conventional retail environment for fragrance and skincare shopping, with a wide selection of the usual designer brands (Dior, Chanel, YSL, Calvin Klein, etc). Twenty years ago, a shop like this would have been unthinkable and unviable. Mauritius has come a long way.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Mado

IMAGE: Mado.

PHYDRA

Spotted this shop at the rather upmarket shopping centre down the road from where my aunt lives. The small international selection (Lalique and others) expensive, but the brand’s own fragrances cheap ’n cheerful. EMNT (explore more next time).

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Phydra The Mauritius Collection

GALIMARD

Never heard of this French company before, but apparently originally founded in 1747 in Grasse. Tried a selection of their fragrances (including the Collection Privée) and intrigued enough to want to know more about what they do (for example, fragrance workshops). DEMNT (definitely explore more next time).

Mauritius fragrance shopping - Galimard

DUTY-FREE (FOR-ALL), SIR SEEWOOSAGUR RAMGOOLAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

So this is more like it. Spotted loads of bargains and stuff I wouldn’t normally be able to find easily in South Africa (for example, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Collection). Well priced too, even with charges in euros.

However, with their low prices on booze (whisky, etc), my carefully cultivated holiday mood was under threat from the hordes loading up on Johnnie Walker and I made a quick exit. Next time, I’ll know what to expect.

The pic below says so much…

Me Departure

Me waiting for the flight to be called. Thinking, relieved to be away from Duty-Free, need to see my barber pronto, had a great time but this pigmentation needs serious attention. Will I get home in time before the scheduled power failure?

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE

I was waiting outside the So’flo shopping mall, admiring the vegetation, when an employee of the Mauritius Tourism Authority and I started chatting. He recommended the following four essentials to buy while in Mauritius: vanilla, rum, masala, tea.

Mauritius fragrance shopping - So'flo Vegetation

I agree, especially the locally produced rum, with two brands standing out for me: Chamarel and Bougainville (yes, my cousin’s wife’s family owns the company that produces it, but I’d still praise the deliciousness of this spirit, which up till now I’d only really appreciated as a perfume note).

MAURITIUS (1): POSTCARDS (& BLURS) FROM THE EDGE

Mauritius Sunset Vista

Some of you might have noticed I was offline recently. If you were asking, “Where the hell is Richard?”, this post will provide several answers.

Okay, so I was in Mauritius. Visiting and reconnecting with family, attending a wedding, escaping from incessant power failures and relentless pessimism about the state of South Africa, taking a break from IG and experiencing a world that couldn’t be more different from the city I live in, Johannesburg. Actually, it was my first proper and much-needed holiday in years.

I was away for three weeks and it’s taken me another three weeks to go through and edit all the hundreds of pics I took. So here’s some snaps from my time in Ile Maurice, the Indian Ocean island that’s a four-hour flight from JHB. Trying to keep this mostly visual. Impossible to show everything. Wouldn’t want to be a vacay bore.

Mauritius Mountain Vista

Part 1: Island life in an impressionistic style and in no particular sequence or importance.

Part 2: What I wore fragrance-wise, fragrance shopping, plus some skincare products.

Part 3: Moody. I’ll leave it at that for now.

Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC

Firstly, let me start by saying I was overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of my family, many of whom I hadn’t seen for decades (I was last in Mauritius in the 1980s, oui, I’m that old). They were most tolerant of my mangled Fran-glais and often took me on sight-seeing excursions. Some pics in this post taken from a moving car, hence the blurry drive-by shooting effect, which I quite like.

Going back to the wedding (my second cousin Alexandre et Rachel), these Mauritians sure know how to party. Below, guests at the wedding celebrating the entrance of the bridal couple. Standing on chairs, waving their napkins and singing the anthemic Johnny Hallyday hit Allumer le Feu. Apparently, the last people left the next morning at 4am. I left at the very sensible hour of midnight. Mon dieu!

If you want to see the more traditional postcard vistas of sun, sea, beaches, colourful architecture, mountains, etc, here we go…

Mauritius Sunset Beach Vista

Mauritius Rocks Vista

Mauritius Beach Vista

Mauritius Colourful Architecture

And then flowers and more flowers. I became increasingly obsessive, as is my wont, with photographing blooms and the lush vegetation (the island was verdant, thanks to good rains). So just two of my favourites here, which capture the tropical vibe of the island well.

Mauritius Flowers

Mauritius Flowers

Even when overcast and misty, Grand Bassin / Ganga Talao is spectacular. It was deserted on the day we visited, apart from noisy monkeys. Imagine being here during the Hindu festival, Maha Shivaratri, when thousands of devotees celebrate the god Shiva.

Mauritius Grand Bassin

THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT MAURITIUS

Hunting is popular. Here, deer in the blurry distance. It’s incredibly well controlled and regulated. And if you’re okay with eating industrial-scale meat, you can’t really complain about shooting these animals. For the record: I didn’t take out Bambi’s mother but I understand the process more than I used to.

Beaucoup développement. All the more noticeable when an island is so small (61km long, 45km wide). The proliferation of roadworks, luxury homes and shopping malls a sign the place is in demand and on the up. How much is too much? Well, that would require another post.

Once almost totally reliant on sugarcane and tourism (still the mainstay of the economy), Mauritius has been positioning itself as a high-tech hub. Cybercity is an expression of that ambition.

Mauritius Cybercity

Mauritius Commercial Bank

ALIEN INVASION? Non, c’est le Mauritius Commercial Bank on a rainy day.

With development and increased prosperity, traffic congestion (“embouteillagesen français) is becoming a problem. But at least the scenery is a distraction while you’re waiting…

It’s going to the dogs. Non, pas de cette manière. The island is doing quite well in the scheme of things and is seen as an African success story. But there are lots of ownerless dogs loitering about. Like their human counterparts, they’re generally laid-back, not vicious at all. This cutie snapped outside the local shopping mall. No, you can’t come home with me.

It’s not all sun and beaches. There’s poverty too, especially among the Creole population. I took this pics on the bus (frequent and cheap) from Tamarin to Riviere Noire.

NON, MERCI (AKA WHAT I COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT)

The bloody mosquitoes. Gosh, these things wouldn’t leave me alone, devouring me, I couldn’t stop scratching. Fresh South African blood, according to my cousin. Hmmm…

This rather threatening and ugly building is the Russian embassy. Opposite my aunt’s home in Floréal. I resisted all temptation to graffiti the walls with pro-Ukraine sentiments. Bon garçon!

As Mauritius imports most goods from countries such as South Africa, prices can be eye-watering if you’re not in the pound / euro / dollar seats. That sting was softened by the lure of fragrance shopping, which I will explore in the next post.