From a new master perfumer to digital transformation, it’s all in this month’s edition of Fragrance News Snippets.
VICTORIA BECKHAM DOES BEAUTY
The celebrity beauty range trend (Rihanna, Kylie Jenner, Madonna) gathers pace. Victoria Beckham will be launching Victoria Beckham Beauty later this year. Sarah Creal, former head of global make-up development and marketing at Estée Lauder, will be the co-founder and CEO of the division. Beckham said: “I want to take care of women inside and out, providing them with the must-have items in make-up, skincare, fragrance and wellness that I feel I need in my own life.”
THE BEAUTY OF IT: Victoria Beckham Beauty will fall under the larger Victoria Beckham fashion brand. Image: www.victoriabeckham.com.
Perfumer Anne Flipo has a very impressive list of fragrance creations and co-creations to her name. These include: YSL L’Homme EDT, Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP and Jo Malone Basil & Neroli Cologne. The multi-award-winning perfumer joined International Flavors & Fragrances Inc in 2004. She was recently named as the fifth master perfumer by the company in recognition of her “consistent and outstanding levels of creativity and craftsmanship in the art of perfumery”.
Narciso Rodriguez fragrances for women are always characterised by a good dose of musk and Pure Musc for Her EDP is no exception. The latest addition to the For Her range was created by Sonia Constant, who has produced several fragrances for the American brand. The EDP features notes of musk, florals and cashmeran.
Digital transformation, innovation and keeping up with trends are essentials of any modern business. Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan has launched The Digital Factory. This Paris-based project accelerator will see worldwide company experts, partners and customers working together to enhance innovation through technology, including AI.
For a hugely popular fragrance, the flankers and limited editions for Paco Rabanne Invictus have been slow by industry standards. That will change with the launch of the fresh oriental Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend EDP later this year. Details are scant at this stage, but no doubt it will be a hit.
As much as I love a good at-home face treatment, they rarely compare with the results one gets when having it in a salon. This was until I recently used Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel. It’s the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.
“Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.”
As I get older, it’s not easy to achieve radiant skin. That’s because cell turnover slows down as we age. And did I mention the other pleasures of getting older: fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration and lacklustre skin?
Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is designed to deal with these harsh realities with a highly effective combination of ingredients. According to Dermalogica, these include:
A unique complex of phytoactive alpha hydroxy acids to help reveal new and firmer skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by removing dulling surface debris without causing dehydration.
Fermented plant enzymes to help even skin tone by resurfacing the skin and accelerating cell turnover.
Australian caviar lime extract to smooth and brighten for a more radiant complexion.
USING DERMALOGICA RAPID REVEAL PEEL
The product comes in a travel bag of 10 x 3ml tubes. As directed, I’ve been using one capsule a week and love the tingling I experience while the active ingredients do their thing. If you want super-quick results, you can use a capsule a day for the first three days.
After rinsing my face with cold water, I can already feel how my skin is feeling smoother. Even better, I’ve received several compliments about the general condition of my skin.
If you want an at-home product that produces noticeably different results in the radiance of your skin and reduction of fine lines, Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is highly recommended. No downtime is required and the product is also artificial fragrance- and colour-free.
R1 450 for 10 x 3ml tubes in a travel bag with suction cups.
As much as I love smelling perfumes for their beauty, I also want to know what goes on behind the scenes in the complex creation of a fragrance. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn is a key account manager at Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.
“Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive.”
She has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn very generously gave me almost two hours of her time to tell me about her work and the company. She also introduced me to the Road Stories Cape Town project. Up-and-coming American perfumer Linda Song spent over a week in Cape Town exploring the region’s unique flora for a collection of 12 wonderful accords. You can read my interview with Linda Song here.
FRAGRANCE HUNTER: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn introduced me to perfumer Linda Song’s contribution to Givaudan’s Road Stories project.
What does your role at Givaudan entail?
I am an account manager, responsible for handling South African and Malagasy accounts. Our office is based in Johannesburg and we work with clients across the whole Sub-Saharan African region.
How long have you been with the company?
This will be my 20th year. Time truly flies!
ADDICTIVE: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn says: “Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.”
What is the attraction working for Givaudan?
Givaudan is the number one role-player in the global fragrance and flavour industry. I am surrounded by people who are passionate about what they do. Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.
UNASSUMING: The exterior of the Givaudan office in Johannesburg.
Is your role very creative?
On the commercial side we are responsible for liaising with our clients and handling projects they may have. I enter these briefs into our global system and then act as intermediary with our evaluators, who in turn task perfumers to create fragrances according to the requirements of the client brief. I then evaluate these submissions to make sure that they answer the client’s requirements (eg, a fine fragrance for a young target market, a hygiene soap range, etc).
Creativity is required in order to ensure that we deliver the best possible fragrances and that we really go out of our way to assist our clients. Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!
“Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!”
WELL OILED: The LCMS lab where fragrance oils are prepared by staff based on the formulae they receive on the internal system from Givaudan’s perfumers worldwide.
How does the evaluation process work? And what is your role in that process?
The evaluator is a technically (highly) trained person who handles the client brief, once entered into the system. This individual needs a great nose, loads of olfactory experience and the ability to reach out to perfumers and reconcile their offerings with what the commercial team wants.
GREAT NOSE: Wesley Perumal is a personal care evaluator at Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.
Your job entails a fair amount of travel? Any favourite place so far?
I guess it will remain Paris, as this city has been the non-official capital of the fragrance industry since the 17th century. However, in this job you have to be at ease in European surroundings, as well as in bustling African cities.
IMAGE: VIATOR.COM
How does Givaudan South Africa contribute to the business, particularly fine fragrances?
Our fine fragrance headquarters are based in Paris, France. The South African office works closely with the Dubai and Paris teams to create fine fragrances for our local market. Something few people outside the industry realise is that the same perfumers who create fragrances for the famous premium and niche brands also work on mass market fragrances for countries like South Africa.
The creation of a perfume iS a complicated process. Please share some details with us on that.
Perfumers have a very long road to travel before becoming fully fledged “noses” or perfumers. Before, the world’s perfumery hub was based in the town of Grasse in France and it was a bit of a family tradition to work in the perfumery business. However, nowawdays, thanks to the Internet, our perfumers come from all over the world and have different backgrounds and interests, ranging from philosophy to architecture. A solid chemistry training is still a prerequisite, combined with an artistic ability. Creating fragrances is a real art.
“Perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met.”
Having said that, perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met. Some fragrances can be quite simple, while others can contain up to 100 ingredients. Creating a fragrance is a complex process and in our current context of high raw material prices and/or shortages, also a real challenge. The perfumer has to skilfully blend ingredients in such a way that there is a fresh hook in the fragrance, followed by the heart or signature of the fragrance and the dry down notes (amber, woods, or musks that ensure longevity). All of this has to provide a coherent, rounded effect.
BUSINESS AS USUAL: Givaudan will probably celebrate its 250th year in the biz with low-key celebrations, says Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.
How is Givaudan celebrating its 250th year in business?
We are used to working incognito and will probably not have huge celebrations. Despite being 250 years old, most people outside the fragrance industry have never heard of us. We basically work behind the scenes, doing our best to assist our clients to make their brands perform well.
Please tell us about the Road Stories Cape Town Project. Why is this so important to Givaudan?
Sub-Saharan Africa is often neglected when it comes to raw ingredients for use in perfumery. Apart from rooibos, tagete (good old kakiebos) and buchu, none of our other fascinating ingredients are known or appreciated. Linda Song’s 12 beautiful accords, inspired by her visit to the Western Cape, are absolutely exquisite. Her collection shows that we have a lot to be proud of.
RAW INGREDIENTS: Perfumer Linda Song created a Mona lavender fragrance accord after exploring the species that’s unique to South Africa.
I was very impressed by the Linda Song fragrances you shared with me. What can we do to promote an appreciation of our own ingredients?
For some reason, South Africans do not always appreciate local ingredients. They are not perceived to be aspirational. This is a real pity, as overseas they are often sought-after ingredients and feature in high-end products. Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit in some of its fragrances – what a shame that most of us have never heard of this fruit!
SOUGHT AFTER: Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit from South Africa in its Boss The Scent fragrance range, according to Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.
There is a tremendous growth and interest in local design and fashion in this country. Maybe it is time that we also start rediscovering the fascinating botanical world that surrounds us. The precious knowledge of the medicinal and other uses of local plants is becoming extinct. It should concern all of us that such an important part of our heritage is vanishing.
BOTANICAL HERITAGE: The golden pagoda is another South African plant that Linda Song used as an inspiration for a fragrance accord.
There’s a reason why I haven’t posted that much about grooming goodies over the last few months. Partly, because I’ve been a slacker, but mostly because I was giving myself the time to properly use the following selection of grooming goodies. I’ve also included one product in this grooming goodies line-up for a laugh, but more about that further on in this post.
Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50
I was first exposed to this product last year when I went to my local Dermalogica store for one of their express facials. It’s packed with anti-ageing active ingredients to hydrate ageing skin. These range from a polypeptide, glucosamine and soy combo to stimulate collagen synthesis to skin-firming tripeptides, yeast extract and phytoestrogens. In addition, this star product provides UVA and UVB rays protection with an SPF50. As with all the Dermalogica products I’ve used in the past, Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 delivers on its promises. It also earns extra points for its absorbability and for being artificial fragrance- and colourant-free. R1 199 for 150ml.
Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum
A mouthful of a product name that perfectly describes my main skin concern. Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is renowned as a highly effective anti-ageing ingredient due to its all-important collagen-building properties. Retinol can have a drying effect on the skin, so the inclusion of ceramide, with its moisture-boosting benefits, makes this product a powerful tool to combat wrinkles and lines, and boost skin texture and tone. I’ve already started seeing results. But what about the capsule format? Well, retinol is a highly unstable ingredient and exposure to sunlight and air can affect its performance. The mono-dose capsule counters these effects and means that you don’t use too much or too little of this highly recommended product among my grooming goodies. R565 for 30 capsules and R965 for 60 capsules.
Mincer Pharma VitaC Infusion Moisturizing Hand Cream
I recently reviewed two products from this Polish brand: Mincer Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream. I was impressed with them, so I decided to give this moisturising product a go, even though I don’t normally bother with hand creams. Too greasy. Too sticky. I just haven’t felt the need to use them. I’m glad I approached this product that “protects against harmful urban environments and damage caused by detergents” with an open mind, as the condition of my hands has improved since I started using it. That would come down to the active ingredients: sea buckthorn oil, camu-camu extract and shea butter. I also like the light citrus scent of this product. R85 for 100ml.
Dentyl Dual Action Alcohol-Free Mouth Wash
I have dental issues, so any product that claims to gently, but effectively improve oral well-being should be given a chance to prove itself. Dentyl Dual Action uses a dual-action process to fight plaque (the aqua-based phase one removes bacteria and plaque) and freshen breath (this phase contains natural essential oils for oral moisturising). The good news is that this product is alcohol-free, so goodbye to stinging and drying out of the mouth. It also contains fluoride. I’ve been using it for over a month as part of my daily oral-hygiene routine and am hoping my oral hygienist will notice the difference when I next see her. It’s available in the following flavours: Fresh Clove; Smooth Mint; Icy Cherry and Icy Mint. R82,95 for 500ml.
Below The Belt GROOMING Instant Clean Balls
Well, here’s a product I never knew I needed! But for a laugh, I decided to see what it’s about. The market is awash with female hygiene products and this product is classified as a male hygiene product for when a man’s balls need a bit of freshening up. It’s recommended for use on the groin area when a shower isn’t available to combat chafing and perspiration. I used it on those days when I was having a pyjamas-and-no-need-to-bath kind of day. Mostly, I felt a warm, tingling experience when using it, but couldn’t really detect much of a difference. Perhaps I need to use it when I am next camping at a three-day music event and bathing facilities are negligible. R149.99 for 75ml.
FILE UNDER GROOMING GOODIES I NEVER KNEW I NEEDED…
Redken Brews Shave Cream
The American brand launched its Redken Brews range for men fairly recently. It includes a full range of hairstyling, grooming, beard and face products. As I have been balding for a long time, I decided to focus on this shaving cream. As you know, I’m always on the lookout for shaving products that make this ritual that much easier. I’m enjoying using Redken Brews Shave Cream because it’s sensitive skin-friendly and it moisturises my skin while I use it. My only gripe is the price, but then it is imported from the USA. R580 for 150ml.
Marie Salamagne might not have “been raised in the world of perfumery”, but this hasn’t stopped the 42-year-old perfumer from attracting attention with her various creations. These range from Alaïa Nude EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoires d’Orangers EDT and Aura Mugler EDT to Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP, Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace EDT, among others.
Since 2015, Marie Salamagne has been the de facto in-house perfumer for Parisian niche fragrance brand Atelier des Ors. She has created 11 unisex EDPs for the company.
ATELIER DES ORS AUBE RUBIS EDP: With notes of bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, sage, violet, iris, patchouli, vetiver and praline.
In this Fragroom interview, Marie Salamagne talks about her background, love of perfumery and her work for Atelier des Ors.
Where were you born?
I was born in Paris, France.
Where did you study perfumery?
I studied perfumery at ISIPCA. It is a renowned school of perfumery in Versailles near Paris.
Where are you based now?
I work in Paris for Firmenich.
Did you always want to be a perfumer?
Unlike many of my colleagues, I have not been raised in the world of perfumery. Coming from a family of doctors, after my baccalaureate I started studying medicine. At the time I wanted to be a child psychiatrist, but I quickly realised that it was not for me. I was studying chemistry when I discovered ISIPCA and the work of a perfumer. From that point it was an obvious choice for me.
“I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.”
ATELIER DES ORS BOIS SIKAR EDP: With notes of nutmeg, guaiac wood, styrax, cedar wood, cedar needles, tobacco leaf and vetiver.
What was the attraction of perfumery for you?
I’ve always been sensitive to “smell”, but I knew very little about the craft when I started. I quickly realised that the world of perfumery suited me to a tee. More than a special effort, it takes passion and very hard work to become a perfumer. I followed my intuition and the path of fragrances. Since then scents have always intrigued me. I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.
“I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection.”
How did your involvement with Atelier des Ors come about?
I received the first brief when the brand was under creation in 2012 from our Dubai team. Jean-Philippe Clermont [the founder of Atelier des Ors] was living in the Middle East at that time. His concept of creating this amazing collection, positioned as he said as “haute parfumerie”, was extremely appealing. I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection, sharing the same passion and vision. That’s how it all started.
PASSIONATE VISION: Jean-Philippe Clermont is the founder of Atelier des Ors.
He gave me the freedom of using the most beautiful ingredients to create his first collection made of five fragrances. These included: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert and Aube Rubis. We are still working on each of his fragrances together, in co-creation.
Did you create all of the Atelier des Ors fragrances?
Yes, I created the 11 fragrances of the collection.
What do you like about the brand?
The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie. I select materials that bring to life the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of the creative storytelling. As I work to sublimate them in my creations for Atelier des Ors, my craft helps to reconnect fragrance-lovers to the dreams and mysterious universe of luxury fragrances.
“The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie.”
ATELIER DES ORS LARMES DU DESERT EDP: With notes of incense, cypress, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, citruses, amber, benzoin and woodsy notes.
What was the general brief for creating the fragrances?
The first idea was to give back to fragrance a sense of mystery and dreams. And also draw inspiration from the crafts to offer olfactory bouquets with distinctive and captivating accords. The project engages with gold, which represents the noble and eternal side of the material and the brand itself.
ATELIER DES ORS CUIR SACRE: With notes of juniper berries, cardamom, cypress, incense, saffron, cedar needles, leather, vetiver and cypriol oil.
How much creative freedom do you have when creating the fragrances?
Passionate and imaginative, Jean Philippe shares his creative ideas with me when we start working on a new fragrance. They are nourished by his incredibly rich experience. His professional life includes various domains of excellence where “savoire-faire” is key. Then I feel free to translate his vision into fragrant poetry. We only keep real “coups de coeur”, as we both like to only pursue rare and unique experiences. I cherish the precious moments of the creative adventure. I enjoy true mutual respect, sharing, listening and a kindred open-minded spirit.
KINDRED SPIRITS: Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont work very closely together on the various fragrances.
One of my favourite fragrances from the collection is the very sensual Rose Omeyyade. How did you create that EDP?
Rose Omeyyade explores the captivating smell of damask rose, infused with velvet raspberry tones and intense woods, such as the mystical agarwood and gaiac wood.
Tell us more about the new White Collection.
The White Collection was released in 2018. It comprises three fragrances: Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. This collection is very special and creative.
White signifies purity, radiance, new beginnings. This new collection pays homage to the white space. It is very relative to art as directly inspired by the work of the artist Gustav Klimt, The Search of Happiness. It’s a monumental artwork completed for the 14th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Beethoven’s death. This artwork is organised in three chapters. Each one was the main inspiration of our three compositions.
INSPIRATION: The Atelier des Ors White Collection is inspired by Gustav Klimt’s The Search of Happiness.
Nuda Veritas has been made for Chapter 1. It is a floral creation, representing the lightness and the beginning of a new spiritual quest for the search of happiness. The composition opens with floral notes, delicate jasmine and osmanthus, combined with ambroxan and subtle woods.
Crepuscule des Ames has been made for Chapter 2. It’s a woody aromatic fragrance, evoking the duality within all of us. The duality is expressed by the usage of very contrasted ingredients. These include: bitter and luminous citruses, energising aromatic herbs, animalic notes and an addictive patchouli.
CONTINUITY: Marie Salamagne has also created the fragrances for the Atelier des Ors White Collection.
Choeur des Anges has been made for Chapter 3. It’s a fruity-floral fragrance, a celebration of joy, colours and happiness. It is made of blood orange, carrot seeds, with a floral heart and some radiant fruits. I have used osmanthus and a touch of honey.
Are you working on more Atelier des Ors fragrances?
Of course! We have a lot of new ideas and developments in progress. Jean-Philippe is always sharing new inspirations. This year will be very busy for Atelier des Ors.
Welcome to the first edition of Fragrance News Snippets for 2019. Perfume-land never sleeps and the first launches of the year are already on the shelves. The Fragrance News Snippets I have included in this edition tell us a lot about the state of the fragrance industry. It’s all about flankers galore, gender fluidity and upmarket fragrance collections on the market.
If you come across anything news-worthy you’d like to contribute to Fragrance News Snippets, please pop me a mail at rpgoller@gmail.com.An
IMAGE: FRANCISKURKDJIAN.COM
PERFUMER JEAN-FRANCOIS LATTY DIES
Jean-François Latty died in early January 2019. The veteran perfumer was best known for creating Givenchy III, YSL Jazz EDT and all of the fragrances for French niche brand, Téo Cabanel. He trained at Roure Bertrand Fils and Justin Dupont’s in-house perfumery school. Latty then worked for Roure, IFF and Takasago.
One of the first fragrances on the market for 2019 is Armani Code Absolu EDP. It’s the 16th flanker and/or limited edition in the Armani Code range, which was originally launched in 2004. Created by Antoine Maisondieu, it features notes of green mandarin, apple, orange blossom, nutmeg, carrot seeds suede, tonka beans, vanilla and woods. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this fragrance yet, so I can’t tell you if it’s a worthwhile purchase or just another churned-out flanker.
IMAGE: FRAGRANTICA.COM
NEW ADDITION TO THE YSL BLACK OPIUM LINE
And in another flanker episode, YSL launched Black Opium Intense this month. Black Opium was originally launched in 2014 and the line now includes 16 flankers and limited editions. The new EDP features notes of blue absinthe, boysenberry, jasmine sambac, orange blossom, black coffee, sandalwood, liquorice and vanilla. It was created by Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp, Marie Salamagne and Honorine Blanc.
Gucci has gone seriously upmarket with the launch of the Alchemist’s Garden “inspired by the art of alchemy influencing the old art of fragrance-making”. The collection is another collaboration between the Italian luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas. It consists of seven eaux de parfum, four perfumed oils, three acque profumate and a scented candle. With a nod to the trends for layering and customisation, the entire collection ensures 48 possible fragrance combinations.
Whether you call them unisex, shared, or (the clunky) gender neutral, they’ve been a growing trend in perfumery (although designer fragrances still have a lot of catching up to do). In an innovative twist, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has launched a duo of unisex fragrances: Gentle fluidity EDP (silver edition) and gentle Fluidity EDP (gold edition). They both have a focus on the same notes – juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods and vanilla – but are treated differently. An intriguing Fragrance News Snippet…
I’d never heard of Mincer Pharma until recently when I started spotting it on Instagram. I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.
“I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.”
Mincer Pharma has an impressive selection of product ranges. These include Oxygen Detox, Vitamins Philosophy, Vita C Infusion, Antiallergenic, Antitiredness, Daily Care, Hyaluron, Folic Acid and Argan Life.
I was sent two products from the Neo Hyaluron line for dehydrated, mature skin: Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream. Both are packed with anti-ageing hyaluronic acid goodies.
WHY HYALURONIC ACID IS SO IMPORTANT
The Mincer Pharma website gives a good explanation why this active ingredient is so important in the fight against ageing:
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in all living organisms. In humans it is responsible, among others, for proper hydration and firming the skin. Spectacular effects of hyaluronic acid result from the fact that it has very strong properties of bonding collagen fibres and of binding water molecules, thus enhancing firmness and nourishment of the skin. Hyaluronic acid is not only acting deep in the skin, but it also forms a protective coating that prevents loss of moisture.Unfortunately, with age it decreases in our tissues.
Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream contain a quartet of hyaluronic acid active ingredients for deep hydration and rejuvenation: cross-linked hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid microspheres, pillar hyaluronic acid and molecular hyaluronic acid.
I have used these products for more than a month and have already starting seeing results. My skin looks fresher and firmer, definitely more hydrated and (I like to think) the wrinkles are looking a tad less noticeable. These results are all the more impressive when I consider that we’ve been having a relentless heatwave here in Johannesburg for quite some time.
Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10, R260 for 50ml, and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream, R260 for 50ml.
For one of the major players in the luxury goods industry, Louis Vuitton’s fragrance releases have not been part of the churn-‘em-out philosophy so prevalent in the designer fragrance category. The company launched its first fragrances in the 1920s and 1940s and then not much else. That’s why the launch of the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection in 2016 was such a big deal.
In a way, the brand had a lot of catching up to do, when compared to its contemporaries. But as a luxury brand that places a premium on attention to detail and craftsmanship, it could not appear like it was in a hurry to do so.
The Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection was launched with seven EDPs for women. These included: Apogée, Contre Moi, Dans la Peau, Matière Noire, Mille Feux, Rose des Vents and Turbulences. Since then the following EDPs have been added to the range: Au Hasard, L’Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage and Sur la Route (all for men); Attrape-Rivesand Le Jour Se Lève (for women); and Ombre Nomade (for men and women).
All of these fragrances are created by Louis Vuitton’s in house perfumer, the legendary Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. He has created Pasha de Cartier EDT, Issey Miyake l’eau d’Issey EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDT, Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar EDT, among others.
IT’S ALL ABOUT SERVICE AND THE EXPERIENCE
When I first stepped into the Louis Vuitton store in Sandton City, Johannesburg, I was immediately impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Although I didn’t look I was there to shop, shop, shop, they all treated me with respect and attention.
AT MY SERVICE: Fragrance manager Marco Matthews writing down all of the names of the Louis Vuitton fragrances on the blotting cards.
I was particularly impressed by the service I received from fragrance manager, Marco Matthews. He gave me over half an hour of his precious time to talk me through the various fragrances in the collection. A personalised consultation is standard for all shoppers.
“Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience.”
It was abundantly clear from what he told me that Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience. And I certainly felt that while trying the various scents on offer.
BAG OF SAMPLE TRICKS: I was given a set of samples from Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection to try at home.
I enjoyed all the fragrances I tried. For a brand that is often associated with conspicuous consumption and logo-a-go-go, the fragrances are notable for their discreet elegance. Also look out for the travel cases and sets.
My favourite would have to be Orage EDP. It opens with citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit. But it’s the play between the iris, vetiver, white musk, hedione and ISO E Super that make it really intriguing.
Louis Vuitton, Sandton City Shopping Centre, Shop U26, Upper Level, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 784 9854.
I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.
IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA
Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.
UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.
What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?
Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.
“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”
BLOODBELL HEATH
How did you get involved?
I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.
When did you arrive in Cape Town?
April 2017.
How long did you spend in the city?
Nine days.
GOLDEN PAGODA
What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?
Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.
IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING
What did you actually discover?
That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.
ERICA TAXIFOLIA
Who helped you make these discoveries?
I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.
COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.
Do many South Africans know about these plants?
This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]
“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”
The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.
It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.
Will the fragrances be available commercially?
These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.
MONA LAVENDER
What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?
This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.
ALOE ARBORESCENS
What perfume project are you working on now?
I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!
*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan.
So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.
“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”
Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.
NO 4711 Original EDC
This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.
The Body Shop Activist EDt
This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.
Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)
I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.
RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.
Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP
Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.
Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT
A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.
Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)
I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.
Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT
There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.
Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)
Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.
