Five months into 2019 and the first BIG designer fragrance launch of the year is here. I am talking about the release of Montblanc Explorer EDP, the new fragrance pillar from the German luxury goods company.
I’ve been seeing many IG posts on this fragrance and recently attended a very lavish and exclusive launch event, which just affirmed how much money the brand is putting into this launch. I’m not one for predictions, but I reckon it’s a safe bet that Montblanc Explorer is set to be one of the fragrance money-spinners of 2019.
PERFUMERS
A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this perfume: Antoine Maisondieu (Montblanc Legend Night EDP, Comme des Garçons Black EDT, Gucci Rush For Men EDT), Olivier Pescheux (Diptyque Tempo EDP, Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT, Versace Eros Flame EDP) and Jórdi Fernandez (24 Gold EDT, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover EDP, Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals EDP).
“All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal.”
All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal. They were specifically chosen for this project due to their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernandez).
PATCHOULI EXPERTISE: Jórdi Fernandez is one of the co-creators of Montblanc Explorer EDP.
PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS
This smooth woody-aromatic-leather fragrance works well from start to finish. The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest.
CITRUS EFFECT: Calabrian bergamot is one of the key ingredients of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.
The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakeable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and ambery ambroxan.
Montblanc Explorer EDP is highly versatile and can be worn to the gym, the office, a nightclub or on a date night. It’s also not season-specific. Just another reason why Montblanc Explorer will be a huge success.
EARTHY: Haitian vetiver is at the heart of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.
PACKAGING
A lot of thought and craftsmanship has gone into the design of the bottle with its leatherish sheath. The solid and substantial spherical bottle was designed by well-known South African fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen, who also designed the award-winning Dunhill Icon bottle.
VERDICT
It’s elegant and masculine stuff with good performance and sillage. If compliments are important to you when you wear a fragrance, look no further. I wouldn’t say Montblanc Explorer is particularly adventurous or innovative, but it is very well crafted and easy on the nose. Expect to smell it a lot this year and no doubt there will be a rollout of flankers over the next few years. Although officially aimed at men with a sense of adventure (which sounds like an awful lot of fragrances), this is a genuine crowd-pleaser and will appeal to a large demographic.
It always takes me time to put together a grooming post, as I give myself at least a month to determine whether a product is any good or not. These are some of the products I have been using.
CETAPHIL SUN SPF30 HIGH PROTECTION SPRAY
Whether it’s summer or winter, the sun is always harsh here in Johannesburg, so I always do my best to apply sun protection daily. The problem with sun protection products is that they are often greasy and can cause breakouts. I’m happy to report that Cetaphil Sun High Protection Spray SPF30 is not one of those products. It offers protection against UVA and AVB rays in a format that’s easy to apply and easily absorbed. It’s also water and sweat resistant, and suitable for sensitive skin. Need even higher sun protection? Cetaphil Sun SPF 50+ Very High Protection Lotion is well worth checking out, too. R265 for 150ml.
SUPER DRY SPORT REVIVE MEN’S BODY SPRAY
I haven’t worn a body spray for decades (we’re talking since my 20s), so I was keen to try this one for the hell of it. If I’m honest, the eye-catching lumo packaging had a lot to do with it. And the scent? A youthful freshie that features notes of cardamom and lemon. It’s not bad at all, but I’m way too old to wear it with any conviction. I would recommend this for a young 20-something doing the pre- or post-gym thing. R69.99 for 200ml.
AMERICAN CREW 24-HOUR DEODORANT BODY WASH
There are three things I look for when considering a body wash. 1) Do I feel clean after using it? 2) Does it lather up easily? 3) Does it smell good? American Crew 24-Hour Deodorant Body Wash delivers on all three of these basics with its fresh formula, although it is a little on the pricey side. I wear a fragrance throughout the day, so I can’t really vouch for its 24-hour claims. R375 for R450ml.
BIONIKE DEFENCE MAN GLOBAL ANTI-AGEING SERUM
As the big 5-0 approaches (please tell my skin, age is nothing but a number), I am always on the lookout for effective anti-ageing serums that won’t give me more wrinkles due to their high price. BioNike Defence Man Global Anti-Ageing Serum is just that product. It combats the signs of ageing on the face and in the eye area (so no need for a separate eye product) through a variety of active ingredients. These include skin-firming baobab extract (very useful in the fight against wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles in the eye area) and hyaluronic acid, which boosts much-needed moisture. R195 for 50ml.
CETAPHIL GENTLE SKIN CLEANSER
I’ve seen Cetaphil products on the shelves of my local chemist for years, but it’s only recently that I’ve started using this brand’s products. I now understand why Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser has a bit of a cult following. Suitable for all skin types, it cleans the face (and the body) without stripping it. Plus it’s a gentle cleanser too. If excess sebum is your skin issue, I would recommend Cetaphil Oily Skin Cleanser. R123 for 125ml, R205 for 250ml and R267 for R400ml.
AMERICAN CREW ALL-IN-ONE FACE BALM SERUM BROAD SPECTRUM SPF15
Double-duty products always get my interest. After all, why use two products when one will do. This one soothes the skin after shaving and acts as an anti-ageing moisturiser (two biggies for me). The SPF is an added bonus, although I would need stronger protection. It’s a very efficient product. R415 for 170ml.
There’s no doubt that we are living in a time of rapid change, economically, socially and politically. Many of the old rules simply don’t apply anymore and the same applies to wearing fragrance, too. There used to be a very simple list of do’s and don’ts for fragrance etiquette. For example, at its most basic, fresh and citrusy fragrances for summer, warm and spicy fragrances for winter. But do rules like this still apply?
Increasingly, how to wear fragrance is all about modern etiquette. It can be a potential minefield of confusion, misunderstanding and embarrassment.
COOL COLOGNE: Why not reach for a citrus scent in winter.
To help you navigate through these realities of fragrance etiquette, here are some of the new rules of fragrance. I’ve also included a brief reminder of those that will never change.
THOU SHALT WEAR WHAT YOU LIKE, BUT BE OCCASION APPROPRIATE
Firstly, and most importantly, things are a lot more flexible than they used to be, which might irk those who prefer their lives to be more black and white.
Generally, this means that we are now all encouraged to wear whatever fragrance we like. Modern fragrance etiquette is not about following the dictates of fashion and marketing anymore; it’s about personal style and preferences. So if you have a thing for the big and bold fragrances of the 80s, go for it.
BIG AND BOLD: If the 80s rules for you, make the most of your personal preferences, but…
Of course, rules always come with qualifiers and caveats (which may even seem contradictory). So while it’s good to indulge in what works for you, it’s also about being occasion appropriate.
That rich and boozy scent might smell like a million dollars on you, but it’s not going to win you any points at a corporate-job interview, for example. This leads us to the following occasion-appropriate rule of fragrance etiquette.
UNDER THE INFLUENCE: Perhaps it’s not the best idea to wear a boozy scent, such as John Varvatos Dark Rebel, to a job interview.
THOU SHALT KEEP IT TO YOURSELF IN AN OPEN-PLAN OFFICE
The open-plan office is not going away any time soon. It has brought with it a multitude of sensitivities, regarding what to eat, how loud to talk, etc.
Your choice of fragrance for the office can become highly contested terrain. If not handled correctly, it could result in one of those managerial emails requesting wearers of “strange” and “exotic” scents to be more sensitive to the olfactory needs of their colleagues.
In short, while others might admire your impeccable “scents of style” at a distance, they don’t necessarily won’t to be exposed to it, in close proximity in an open-plan environment.
“Without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours.”
So without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours. This doesn’t mean nondescript and boring, but do think twice about so-called “beast mode” fragrances if you don’t want to get up the noses of your co-workers.
OPEN-PLAN FRIENDLY? Keep super-distinctive and -powerful fragrances like Orto Parisi Terroni EDP for after-hours.
THOU SHALT NOT STICK RELIGIOUSLY TO SEASONS
This used to be one of the clear-cut rules of fragrance etiquette but, in the new flexi era, is showing signs of becoming more relaxed. If you enjoy wearing citrusy scents in winter, there’s nothing to stop you from doing so. Equally, if you want to wear an oud scent in summer, there’s no reason why you can’t.
As Helen Fitzgerald writes on MelMagazine.com: “For the most part, a summer scent is a marketing construct, much like the idea of a gendered scent. One can wear any type of scent in any season and have it ‘work,’ depending on the desired effect.
“Perfume is about fantasy, so finding a scent you want to wear in summer is about figuring out what your fantasy of summer is.”
FLEXI FRAGRANCE: Wearing an oud fragrance in summer is perfectly acceptable.
All of this is done with the knowledge, of course, that certain fragrances will react more to increased levels of heat, humidity and sweatiness.
THOU SHALT NOT BE A SELF-LIMITING FRAGRANCE SNOB
The biggest growth in the fragrance industry in the last 10 years has been in the niche sector. Unfortunately, it has also been accompanied by the rise of fragrance snobbery, where anything non-niche is considered to be of inferior quality.
While most of the innovation in fragrance is happening in niche, the truth is that there also countless over-priced, average-smelling scents in that category.
“It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear.”
STAR SCENT: There are some surprisingly good celeb fragrances.
It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear. There’s a lot of mediocrity to be found in every category, from designer and celebrity to budget, but there are also treasures to be found in each. It would be a pity to limit your fragrance options by being an unbearable snob.
THOU SHALT CROSS THE GENDER DIVIDE
While we’re on the subject of improving your options, it’s an increasingly acceptable part of fragrance etiquette for men to make a detour via the female counters and shelves to buy female fragrances for themselves. Women have been buying men’s fragrances for themselves for many years and now adventurous men have the opportunity to make up for what they have been missing out on.
GENDER GAP: Increase your options by exploring female fragrances.
Linked to this is the rise of unisex/shared/gender-neutral fragrances, one of the biggest trends in recent years. Increasingly, men no longer want to be confined by the labels of “for him” and “for her” fragrances and are looking for perfumes that appeal to both genders.
BARGAIN HUNTING IS COOL
Whichever way you look at it, fragrance is an expensive business, especially on the niche side, so being a savvy consumer is more important than ever.
There’s much hype and a hefty price tag when a big new designer fragrance is launched. If you are willing to wait six months, say, chances are the “hottest new launch of 2019” will also become “the best bargain of 2019” when discounts become more common.
Niche too expensive for you? There are numerous reputable Facebook swap and purchase groups where niche’s usually higher prices are eminently more negotiable.
EXPENSIVE BUSINESS: It’s very possible to find niche fragrance bargains on reputable Facebook groups.
And let’s not forget the bargain shelves. They might not be adorned with slick branding materials, but they are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.
“Bargain shelves are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.”
SOME OF THE OLD RULES STILL APPLY
Among all the change, it’s reassuring to know that some things remain the same when it comes to fragrance etiquette.
LESS IS STILL MORE
It’s very tempting to over-apply fragrance. After all, it is your favourite and everyone should be allowed to smell how good it is on you. But that all depends on your view of the effect of fragrance on others. To entice and intrigue? Or overpower and dominate? Besides, this would be infringing on the personal space of others.
TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, ON YOUR SKIN
For all sorts of reasons. Fragrance is a luxury purchase, so you don’t want to waste your hard-earned cash on something that doesn’t suit you. Just because it smells great on a buddy, doesn’t mean it’s going to work on you. You get the picture…
When husband and wife, David Seth Moltz (a musician) and Kavi Moltz (an architect) launched DS & Durga in 2007, they did so without a plan in mind. Twelve years later, the perfumer and creative director’s NYC-based company is a well-respected (I would say “very cool”) niche fragrance brand that produces perfume, candle, body and car products.
SELF-TAUGHT: David Seth Moltz didn’t go to perfumery school, but taught himself the tools of the trade.
It’s easy to be a cool brand, but a cool brand with longevity is something else altogether. DS & Durga have achieved this through distinctive (often unusual), high-quality fragrances that take their inspiration from music, art, nature and design.
I got hold of self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz via Instagram and these are his replies to my questions.
What makes DS & Durga stand out in an increasingly saturated niche market?
We are perfumer- and designer-owned. Our scents are a true reflection of our ideas and are not filtered through another perfumer.
You’ve been labelled a “hipster” fragrance brand. What are your thoughts on that?
Not sure what that really means. Doesn’t sound too positive, though.
What was your goal when you originally launched DS & Durga in 2007? Has that changed at all?
At the beginning, we were just flying by the seat of our pants. We were surprised by the response and excited to make something with our own hands. We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools. Ultimately, it’s about spreading joy to as many people as possible.
“We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools.”
You and your wife, Kavi, founded DS & Durga. Why do you have such a strong working relationship?
We respect each other’s spheres of expertise.
AREAS OF EXPERTISE: Kavi Moltz (creative director) and David Seth Moltz (perfumer) are the husband and wife team behind DS & Durga.
You didn’t study perfumery. Has that been an advantage for you?
I think so. I have my own systems of how aromatic materials work.
Where does your creativity come from?
God.
You’ve recently opened your new NYC store. Why should we visit it?
It has everything we make in one place the way we want you to experience it. You can talk to the founders or our small team and get deep inside what we do and how we do it. Nolita is also a great neighborhood to visit.
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT: The interior of the new DS & Durga store in Nolita, NYC.
One of my favourite DS & Durga fragrances is Debaser. I know the Pixies reference, but I wasn’t expecting all of that delicious fig and coconut for such a rock n roll-referenced fragrance…
Yep, it’s a reference to my youthful understanding of that provocative music on hot summer nights.
On the music theme, you collaborated with Duran Duran last year to celebrate their 40th year in the music biz. What do you remember most from that collaboration?
Working closely with Simon [le Bon, the band’s lead singer] on the fragrances.
Tell us about your latest fragrance, DS & Durga EDP?
The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the retail cost. It is a modern take on an Indian attar with frangipani, gardenia, lotus, sandalwood and vetyver.
“The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the cost.”
Where do you think niche is heading?
Perfume as an art form will only increase. There will always be a market for perfume focused on the artistry of the juice first.
DS & Durga fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics. Tel: 011 883 1350.
Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).
PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.
Notes (according to fragrantica.com)
Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.
About the brand
Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.
KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.
Impressions
How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…
Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website
“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”
When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.
I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.
Verdict
A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.
To buy in South Africa
From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).
There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years, in general, and NYC-inspired, specifically. Former model-turned-entrepreneur Mona Maine de Biran says her niche brand, Kierin NYC, offers a compelling and uncompromising alternative to what’s currently available on the market.
“I come from a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model).”
After reading a blog-post of mine, Mona got in touch with me and very kindly sent me a discovery kit containing the brand’s four launch EDPs. These are Nitro Noir, Santal Sky, 10am Flirt and Sunday Brunch. I’ve enjoyed wearing all of the Kierin NYC fragrances. There’s something fresh and playful about them. As I wanted to know more about them, I sent Mona some questions on her background, the brand itself, her choice of perfumer and her rejection of gender binary fragrances.
FRAGRANCE ENTREPRENEUR: Mona Maine de Biran is the co-founder and president of Kierin NYC.
How did the idea for Kierin NYC fragrances come about?
For a long time, we’ve been unsatisfied with the rules and compromises that existed in the market. Since no one was doing what we wanted to do, it seemed like a natural evolution to do it ourselves.
What’s your background? Do you come from a fragrance background?
I have a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model). My partners are the industry veterans. My husband’s background includes: managing director for Bulgari Parfums, general manager for Puig North America (Prada, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne), VP marketing for Clarins North America, Chanel and Clinique. The fact that I didn’t grow up in the industry, however, has helped form Kierin NYC’s unique perspective and brand values. As co-founder and President of Kierin NYC, I aim to challenge some of the conventional rules of fragrance and offer consumers a fresh perspective with a modern approach.
There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years. What makes Kierin NYC different from the multitudes of brands on the market?
Kierin NYC is an uncompromising brand. Current industry trends in unisex aim for compromise, producing scents which I find to be sexless packaged with un-inspirational and minimalistic designs. The “green” industry also fell into that trend in terms of style.
“We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.”
We provide an alternative, crafting bold scents which are genderless but never generic. Our olfactory vibes are uncompromising, high-quality blends and concentrations that are also sustainably sourced, recyclable, cruelty-free, free of unnecessary stabilisers, toxins and skin allergens, and vegan.
We chose to be an accessibly priced niche fragrance. Because quality niche fragrances tend to be expensive, fewer people can enjoy them. Those who do tend to consider them speciality-use fragrance experiences. Kierin NYC tells stories of every-day NYC life and we would like people to incorporate our fragrances into their own everyday life. We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.
Kierin NYC is different from other NY-centric brands, some of which were successful for their times in the 1990s and early 2000s, in that Kierin NYC expresses the modern spirit of New York City. Our scents are about people (not places). Art and the city are our muses, not celebrities or elitist stereotypes. We do not produce scents that segregate the city by gender or into neighborhoods. We transcend those boundaries with scents made simply for bold individuals. Kierin NYC is a socially conscious brand committed to inclusivity. We have chosen not to perpetuate biases and, for example, do not produce scents “for her” or “for him”. We aim to inspire people, not define or confine them.
Please tell us more about your take on gender within the perfume industry and why you decided not to participate in this binary?
I don’t participate in that binary because it’s insulting. As a model, I never liked fragrance marketers telling me what it meant to smell like or be a woman. They presumed that I should like pink, crystals and the smell of roses (I don’t). And so, my individualism denied, I was forced to shop for fragrances that I like in men’s aisles. I was always perplexed by the fragrance marketer’s logic. Is a Kandinsky feminine or a Warhol macho? When I go to an art gallery, no one tells me where to go. I think we can all agree, in this modern era, that labeling art as “for her” or “for him” would be insulting to us as individuals. Fragrance, like art, is for all… and should be free of gender-bias labels.
How did you integrate NYC art into your brand?
The white, opaque bottle is like a canvas. The label is purposely positioned “on the edge” of the square bottle as a metaphor for living life to its fullest. The collage art is reminiscent of the lifestyle of NYC and so many street art and graffiti art murals wrapped around the city’s building corners.
Why did you choose Mathieu Nardin as the perfumer for your fragrances
Our choice began with our commitment to producing sustainably sourced scents. As one of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations, Mathieu was a perfect fit for Kierin NYC. As each scent in our collection began as a mood board and story of real New York City life, Mathieu’s literary and visual methods suited our lifestyle approach. His multi-sensorial approach (smell, sight, sound) to olfactive creation helped us to translate this into “fragrance stories”: Sunday Brunch, 10am Flirt, Nitro Noir and Santal Sky.
PERFECT FIT: Mathieu Nardin is part of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations.
How closely did you work with Mathieu on the creation of the fragrances
My husband and Mathieu worked very closely together to fine-tune the scents and concentrations. It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that. They evoke a vibe, tell a real story of NYC illuminated by fragrance. It took time and required collaboration to perfect each scent.
“It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that.”
What was the starting point for the fragrances? Was a story important to you?
Our fragrances were born with a story, a real NYC story. While these stories are my personal experiences, they are not unique. Many people living here would relate to my stories as their own. New York City is an incredible inspiration because of its people. Diversity is the lifeblood of this city.
What’s next for Kierin NYC?
We are in full launch mode for 2019. The brand just started a few months ago and launched on Amazon Luxury Beauty in November 2018. Kierin NYC still has a lot of work to do to get the good news of our brand out to the public. Our next launch will be in the UK this April. We will be hosting a fun pop-up store experience in London’s über-trendy Boxpark. Of course, there are many more fragrances in line for our future.
FABULOUS FRANCHISE: Mugler Alien fragrances more often than not add something new or different to the original.
The last time I had a bit of a whinge about the world of perfumes it was about the foibles of my shopping experience (you can read that post here). Since that post, I’ve been thinking a lot about other fragrance frustrations. Admittedly, some of these fragrance frustrations are really petty and personal to me; others I’m sure you can relate to. What are your top fragrance frustrations? Perhaps, it’s whining bloggers…
“Perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me.”
Spray nozzle facing the wrong way
This one is really silly, yet I’m amazed how many times I get this wrong. Scenario: I’m in a rush to wear one of my favourite fragrances, I remove the cap and start spraying… into my hands and everywhere else, but my body. As I said, really silly. Apart from taking more time to check the direction of the spray nozzle to save myself from unnecessary harm, perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me. A luminous hole on the nozzle so that I can quickly spot which way I am spraying? Please tell I’m not the only one to experience this problem.
The umpteenth flanker (and limited edition)
I understand and appreciate the business model of releasing fragrance flankers. Old fans might love the original enough to buy the new version and new consumers might be gained with each new release. The best flankers add something new to the original, but all too often the release of yet another one smacks of desperate cash-ins and diminishing returns. One of my favourite fragrances from the 90s, L’Eau d’Issey, now numbers a staggering 49 flankers and limited editions for the male and female versions combined. YSL Black Opium was released in 2014 and already numbers 14 flankers and limited editions. Are you keeping up?
Bad Instagram behaviour
What’s the deal with people who follow you on Instagram, then unfollow you, then follow you and then unfollow you again? I really don’t get the point of this behaviour. It seems while some people collect fragrances, others collect followers, but have no intention of ever liking your content. You’ve heard of “empty calories”. Well, welcome to the world of “empty followers”. Recently, I’ve even noticed some people liking my content and then unliking it. Oh, stop it now!
Niche fragrance snobbery
I’ve only really started exploring niche fragrances in the last few years and am thoroughly enjoying making so many new discoveries. There’s also the thrill of so many more to discover, as the market has exploded in the last five years. What does get to me, though, is the wholesale rejection of anything non-niche, including designer, celebrity and bargain fragrances. As if all niche fragrances are good and anything else is rubbish. I agree that most of the innovation is happening in the niche category, but there’s still good stuff to be found in other categories.
Perfume stories
This is one of my fragrance frustrations/guilty pleasures. Stories are increasingly important in the land of perfume, especially when it comes to the inspiration/creation of a fragrance. Generally, designer fragrance brands go for the story of the man/woman who the fragrance is created for. No matter how many adjectives they use, these ideal people all sound very interchangeable. On the other hand, niche fragrances can be guilty of trying too hard to be different and many of their stories land up being bafflingly obscure. While I find these stories hard work when I want to extract some useful info, I also get perverse joy from reading their nonsensical content.
GREAT STORY-TELLING AND PERFUME-MAKING: According to DS & Durga, the inspiration for their Burning Barbershop EDP is that “a fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla and lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” The fragrance captures this story so well.
You can read my reviews of DS & Durga Burning Barbershop EDP and Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 on my Instagram page, @richgoller.
Top notes: pink pomelo from Florida, mandarin from Calabria, blackcurrant bud from Burgundy. Heart notes: Moroccan orange blossom, Bulgarian rose essence, mint from China. Base notes: vetiver from Haiti, iris from Tuscany, amber (main notes in italics).
About the brand
Founded by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel in 2009, the Parisian niche fragrance brand takes its inspiration from the citrus profile of the classic eau de cologne. According to the duo, they launched a new olfactive family, Cologne Absolue, that blends citruses with “the most precious natural raw materials”.
CLASSIC INSPIRATION: Sylvie Ganter is the co-founder of Atelier Cologne.
Impressions
Pomelo notes can be harsh and off-putting. Not this one. It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again. As the fragrance develops, the second main note, mandarin, starts coming through. Smooth and super-realistic, it maintains the invigorating vibe going with aplomb. As a vetiver-lover, I was very keen to experience the other key-note, hopefully, in a big way. But it’s more of a subtle, grassy hint in Atelier de Cologne Pomelo Paradis. However, that’s a quibble in the scheme of things.
“It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again.”
Verdict
It’s only when I did some more research that I discovered that this fragrance comes from the brand’s Joie de Vivre collection. That’s exactly what Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis does so well. If you believe a perfume can have uplifting, mood-enhancing qualities, this one is definitely for you.
What others say
“Delightful and probably the best thing in this genre since Guerlain Pamplelune).” – Luca Turin, Perfumes: The Guide 2018
From a new master perfumer to digital transformation, it’s all in this month’s edition of Fragrance News Snippets.
VICTORIA BECKHAM DOES BEAUTY
The celebrity beauty range trend (Rihanna, Kylie Jenner, Madonna) gathers pace. Victoria Beckham will be launching Victoria Beckham Beauty later this year. Sarah Creal, former head of global make-up development and marketing at Estée Lauder, will be the co-founder and CEO of the division. Beckham said: “I want to take care of women inside and out, providing them with the must-have items in make-up, skincare, fragrance and wellness that I feel I need in my own life.”
THE BEAUTY OF IT: Victoria Beckham Beauty will fall under the larger Victoria Beckham fashion brand. Image: www.victoriabeckham.com.
Perfumer Anne Flipo has a very impressive list of fragrance creations and co-creations to her name. These include: YSL L’Homme EDT, Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP and Jo Malone Basil & Neroli Cologne. The multi-award-winning perfumer joined International Flavors & Fragrances Inc in 2004. She was recently named as the fifth master perfumer by the company in recognition of her “consistent and outstanding levels of creativity and craftsmanship in the art of perfumery”.
Narciso Rodriguez fragrances for women are always characterised by a good dose of musk and Pure Musc for Her EDP is no exception. The latest addition to the For Her range was created by Sonia Constant, who has produced several fragrances for the American brand. The EDP features notes of musk, florals and cashmeran.
Digital transformation, innovation and keeping up with trends are essentials of any modern business. Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan has launched The Digital Factory. This Paris-based project accelerator will see worldwide company experts, partners and customers working together to enhance innovation through technology, including AI.
For a hugely popular fragrance, the flankers and limited editions for Paco Rabanne Invictus have been slow by industry standards. That will change with the launch of the fresh oriental Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend EDP later this year. Details are scant at this stage, but no doubt it will be a hit.
As much as I love a good at-home face treatment, they rarely compare with the results one gets when having it in a salon. This was until I recently used Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel. It’s the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.
“Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.”
As I get older, it’s not easy to achieve radiant skin. That’s because cell turnover slows down as we age. And did I mention the other pleasures of getting older: fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration and lacklustre skin?
Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is designed to deal with these harsh realities with a highly effective combination of ingredients. According to Dermalogica, these include:
A unique complex of phytoactive alpha hydroxy acids to help reveal new and firmer skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by removing dulling surface debris without causing dehydration.
Fermented plant enzymes to help even skin tone by resurfacing the skin and accelerating cell turnover.
Australian caviar lime extract to smooth and brighten for a more radiant complexion.
USING DERMALOGICA RAPID REVEAL PEEL
The product comes in a travel bag of 10 x 3ml tubes. As directed, I’ve been using one capsule a week and love the tingling I experience while the active ingredients do their thing. If you want super-quick results, you can use a capsule a day for the first three days.
After rinsing my face with cold water, I can already feel how my skin is feeling smoother. Even better, I’ve received several compliments about the general condition of my skin.
If you want an at-home product that produces noticeably different results in the radiance of your skin and reduction of fine lines, Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is highly recommended. No downtime is required and the product is also artificial fragrance- and colour-free.
R1 450 for 10 x 3ml tubes in a travel bag with suction cups.
