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The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

Fragrance Awards

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Fragrance Awards
Image: Fragrance One.
THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

Fragrance Awards

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

Fragrance Awards

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

Fragrance Awards

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading. 

 

 

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Francis Kurkdjian Interview: Always Looking Forward To The Future

November 6 2019 was a special day – it’s when I got to meet Francis Kurkdjian for a tête-à-tête. The Paris-based perfumer was on a break in Stellenbosch, near Cape Town, but generously agreed to a morning of interviews when he was contacted by Skins Cosmetics. Maison Francis Kurkdjian is the best-selling brand at the niche retailer, especially his ouds, Baccarat Rouge 540 and Grand Soir.

Francis Kurkdjian

When we arrive at the venue, Francis Kurkdjian is comfortably dressed in a white shirt, jeans and sneakers. There’s an opportunity to chat before the official interviews about how much he’s enjoying his holiday in the country. We’re all put at ease, as he’s approachable and authentic.

Francis Kurkdjian

But before we get to the actual interview, five quick facts about Francis Kurkdjian. They will give you an idea why he’s one of the most successful creators in modern perfumery.

  • He trained at ISIPCA, the renowned perfume school in Versailles.
  • He made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle in 1995 at the age of 26.
  • This blockbuster was followed by numerous other high-profile scents. Some of these include: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999), Lancôme Miracle Homme EDT (2001), Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005), Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011), Carven Pour Homme EDT (2014) and Mr Burberry EDT (2016).
  • Maison Francis Kurkdjian was launched in 2009 and a majority stake was sold to the French luxury giant LVMH in 2017.
  • He has been awarded the Prix François Coty and named a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.

When it’s my turn to interview Francis Kurkdjian, he invites me to join him on the sofa. The conversation is wide ranging and goes on far longer than our allocated 20 minutes. I’m so excited to be talking to him that I forget to take any pictures of my own with him. So big thanks to Kim Currin, the photographer who was hired to take pictures for the special occasion.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m not wearing anything. I wear what I am working on, but I’m not working on anything right now. I’m taking a creative break. I’m done with 2021 and then I’ll start working on 2022.

Do you work that far ahead?

Yes, always.

Do you love planning?

I love planning [laughs]. And even not doing anything is planned.

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you a bit of a control freak?

[Slight hesitation] Yes, but in a nice way, meaning I like to plan certain things. But I am not going to freak out if something doesn’t happen the way I wanted it. I’ve learned things can be out of my control. And usually if you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak. You need to delegate and accept it will be done the best way possible.

“If you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak.”

Can you tell what fragrance I am wearing today?

Smoke [he smiles] and something else on the side, but I’m not sure what it is. [I’m wearing Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver, which was launched in 2019 as part of a fragrance duo.]

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you sensitive to smoke?

I used to be a smoker myself. I’m sensitive to everything. It’s not just about smoke. It’s just more intense.

I gave up about three months ago. I was tired of smoking and decided not to be dependent. It’s like freeing yourself. Once in a while I smoke, because I don’t want to freak out. I’m here for a birthday party and smoked a little more than I should have done. But tomorrow I will be back in Paris and will not be smoking.

Francis Kurkdjian

When did you love of perfumery start? I read in your bio that you were thinking of becoming a ballet dancer.

That was my dream. It’s still my dream job. I’m too old now.

It’s one of your passions?

It’s not a crazy passion the way people sometimes speak about doing something for passion. I hate fanaticism. It’s very scary. No matter what its objective, it’s too much. I hate fanaticism in perfumes. Sometimes you have fans in perfumes. Perfume is important, but not to a point where you have to become a fanatic.

I was a teenager in the 80s when I started to become fascinated with perfumes. Not only the scent itself. I was hooked on the whole thing – the name, the bottle, the story, the ad. The 80s were a great era for perfume. When I show my team my references, I usually I go back to that era.

What I lOVE about the 80s is that perfumes were unapologetic and big.

Yes, for a scent to be successful, it needs to be big. I remember Fahrenheit, Kouros, Giorgio, Poison…

Your big international debut was with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle and it made your name. Did you feel any pressure to repeat its success?

Yes, it was my first perfume. [Long pause.] To be honest, yes. I tried to pretend not to [laughs], because I don’t like to complain. That was 25 years ago and no matter what I did afterwards, people take you back to that.

I don’t look backwards. I don’t put my prizes on my chimney. I have a very good memory, but I learned to look forward, because first of all you can’t change the past and what good does it do to complain about the past.

But for sure, it brought something different to the perfume industry. Every time I create a scent I try to bring something new. Sometimes you succeed, sometimes you don’t. It also depends on the brand you work for.

Congratulations on Maison Francis Kurkdjian celebrating its 10th year in business this year.

Merci. Thank you. I have a great business partner [Marc Chaya] who really knows how to take care of the brand.

There’s no doubting your creative flair. Would you call yourself a good businessman?

No [laughs]. I’m a good businessman from far away. I felt it was the right time for me to launch my brand, but it’s more about creative slash business. I’m not a good businessman for running a company. My business partner gives me advice and shares his creative vision with me. By far, the company has been successful thanks to him. I create scents, but he gives them resonance with the team in Paris. We now have 60 people in Paris. Every two years, we double the size of the company.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Marc Chaya with Francis Kurkdjian.
That’s a lot of people to worry about.

No, I don’t worry any more. When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way. If something happens to me, the company belongs to a corporation that is capable of pursuing what I started.

“When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way.”

You’re admired by many people for your oud fragrances, although you actually create many other types of fragrances, too. Why do you like to work with oud?

It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery. I then asked myself: Should I use oud the way they do in the Middle East, or should I do it the way I think I should do it? Oud comes from India and it’s very popular in the Middle East, but I should use oud the way I use patchouli from Malaysia in European perfume.

Francis Kurkdjian

You juggle your maison with your work for other brands such as Elie Saab, Burberry and Kenzo? How do you approach them?

I am doing less recently. It’s a different mindset. The best comparison I can give you is if you’re an actor and you perform in a movie with a director on a set that’s not yours. When I work for someone else, first of all you need to read a script, which is a brief, and you search for what can resonate with a part of you. You’re given most of the work. I mean you’re given the material, the landscape is designed for you.

Whereas for my brand, I am the source of the inspiration, and then with my team I build around it. But it’s very egocentric. I’ve always been scared of that egocentricism, because [laughs] I see the damage it brings to the creative community. I got scared when I started working for some other people and I saw the egomania and craziness. You don’t really want to become one of those monsters.

Which perfume do you want to be remembered most for?

Not yet. I hope I have a few more years. I give myself 10 years. I was shocked when I saw Nureyev dancing in one of his last performances and felt sad, even though I had much respect for what he’d achieved. It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that. I don’t want to be a perfumer without something to say.

“It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that.”

I think I have found for me the definition of getting old. It’s when you think it was better before, when you start saying it was better yesterday. When you start thinking about yesterday, basically you are thinking the future is not for you. I want to make sure I’m not going to be indulging in that kind of nostalgia.

How do you keep inspired?

It’s simple, but it needs work. You have to stay connected with your era. I know I’m part of the five percent of the global population who’s very lucky. I can walk in the street and I’m not famous. I can go to the supermarket and chat with the cashier about life. I have that freedom of interaction. Some people don’t have that, because they are too famous.

I also try not to post too many things on Instagram about what I have and what I do. Once in a while I do it. I did it yesterday, because I thought it was important to do it. Otherwise I am not in that cult. I think perfume is not appropriate to become a cult. It’s invisible.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

Francis Kurkdjian

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Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.
SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

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Best Designer Fragrances Of 2019: The Flankers Edition – Dior Joy Intense, YSL Y EDP, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal, Dunhill Century Blue, Bulgari Man Wood Neroli, Oscar de la Renta Bella Rosa, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.

This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.

Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.

Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.

The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.

R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.  

It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.

It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.

R1 860 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.

Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.

R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019
SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?
DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP

I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.

There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.

There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.

R1 495 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)

The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.

Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.

But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.

R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.

The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.

While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.

R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)

Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.

Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.

It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.

R995 for 100ml.

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)

Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.

That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.

It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.

R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

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Gilles Thévenin Interview: Leading Lubin Into A New Era Of Haute Parfumerie

Gilles Thévenin

The perfume gods were clearly thinking of me a few months ago when a friend very generously gave me a bag full of Lubin samples. He’d been given them when he met the president of the legendary French perfume house, Gilles Thévenin, on a trip to Europe. I’ve been aware of Lubin for several years, but had never had the pleasure of smelling any of their fragrances. So what a joy it has been to go through the samples from their various collections, including Classique, Talismania and Evocations.

Gilles Thévenin

I’ve loved many of the scents I got to try, especially the deeper oriental scents Akkad EDP and Korrigan EDP, created by Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine respectively.

My favourite, though, would have to be Upper Ten EDP, created by Thomas Fontaine. It opens in lightly fresh and spicy territory with notes of pink pepper bergamot, juniper berries and specifically cardamom. The spicy profile is amplified with a big dose of cinnamon, which is beautifully contrasted with a deep leather note and a hint of juicy peach. The drydown is all about the balance between the rich woody and earthy aspects (cedar, sandalwood, patchouli) and musk. Distinctive in its own right, I can also definitely say it’s a Lubin creation, having now tried many of the house’s releases.

Gilles Thévenin Interview

I contacted Gilles Thévenin via email and he answered my questions on the same day I sent them to him. Before we get to the interview, though, I will give you a super-quick history of the house.

Pierre-François Lubin (pictured below) founded the maison in Paris in 1798. Early customers Gilles Théveninincluded Napoleon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, and the Russian and English royal courts. The 19th century saw its expansion under apprentice Felix Prot and his son, Paul. Both of them innovated the business with the construction of factories.

Lubin was particularly popular in America in the 20th century, with releases such as Nuit de Longchamp (1937) and Gin Fizz (1955) capturing the spirit of the times. It stayed in the Prot family until the end of the 1960s, but fell into decline after being sold. Gilles Thévenin revived the company in the early 21st century with Paul Prot’s sons, Laurent and Frédéric.

Tell me about your background.

I graduated from a French business school in 1981. Then I left for Asia, where  I spent two years at the trade commission of the French embassy in Jakarta. I travelled around Asia, from China to Nepal, and to remote places before they were invaded by mass tourism. Back to France, I started my career in perfumes in the mid-1980s, the golden age. I spent most of my career at Guerlain, where my last assignment was the international direction of creation. I left Guerlain when the family decided to sell to the LVMH group.

Gilles Thévenin

Why did you decide to buy Lubin?

I realised in 1996 that Lubin had been purchased two years before by Wella, the German group I was working for, together with a bunch of other brands. Among those brands was the Gucci perfume licence. I was then working at Parfums Rochas, which belonged to Wella as well. Everyone at Wella was obsessed by Gucci and the new potential the brand would offer under the direction of Tom Ford. They would entirely focus on the launch of Envy, the first Gucci fragrance of the new generation, planned in 1996.

Gilles Thévenin

In my eyes, on the contrary, Lubin, a legendary French brand, looked much more interesting. I had been impregnated by traditional luxury perfumery at Guerlain. After I tried convincing the board of the group to start Lubin again in the field of “haute parfumerie”, I realised they wouldn’t do it. I decided then to go on my own. It took another six years, after I left Rochas in 1998, before I could get hold of the brand and its archives, which were sold to me in 2004.

Gilles Thévenin

“The first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.” – Gilles Thévenin

What challenges have you experienced since you bought the company?

Unfortunately, many people have started fragrance businesses in recent years based on new registrations of ancient brands, pretending they are the legitimate owners of the brand’s heritage. In the case of Lubin, where the former owner’s descendants came on board with me in 2006 as investors and partners, the first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.

Then the financing, of course – not the easiest part. Finally, to find the “noses” who would understand the brand’s spirit and who would be able to work on the heritage scents, making them compatible with today’s sanitary regulations, without spoiling the original creations.

How have you kept the balance between heritage and modern relevance?

It’s a question of impregnation. Lubin is a brand with a long heritage and an olfactory signature – not that much rational, more like a soul. Lubin has a life of its own, and everyone after having worked a few months with us is able to tell, when smelling a new scent in development, “This is Lubin”, or “It’s not”.

How involved are you in the creation of the fragrances?

I am not a perfume composer, in spite of my long experience. I work mainly with two perfumers, Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine, whose personalities are very different. They both have a precise idea on how to interpret a Lubin creation. Both of them are right in a way. The brand has a rich, multi-faceted personality and a culture of freedom of creation. There’s no marketing briefs here – it’s all about sharing ideas, stories and scent directions.

SHARING IDEAS: Delphine Thierry is one of the perfumers who works with Gilles Thévenin.

Everyone is pulling towards his or her own beliefs on how it should be. I am supposed to make all that work together and keep a certain stylistic coherence. But I don’t consider myself a creator, or an author, nor even a creative director. I just make sure everything runs smoothly and that our perfumes live up to Lubin’s reputation.

LUBIN NOSE: Thomas Fontaine works closely with Gilles Thévenin to maintain the brand’s reputation.
Does Lubin have a distinctive olfactory style?

It’s not for me to judge. I know that I am very fond of the old Lubin scents that we were able to reproduce (for our own information, because it would not be allowed to sell them as they are). It’s my taste and I guess the new scents we make are from the same lineage.

“What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste.”

What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste: for certain ingredients, certain type of accords, and the way the scents develop on the skin. As far as Lubin is concerned, persistent but not overwhelming, most of the time with a soft lift, not a strong one, head notes which remain discrete and not too assertive, and always a very rich dry down with lots of balms and precious woods.

Gin Fizz is one of the house’s classic scents. Is it still made according to the same formula?

The original formula was adapted several times since 1955, because the international regulations change very often. When I took over, the last formula was quite far from the original one. We started again in 2008 from the 1955 original “Henri Giboulet” formula, then it took more than one year to have former lady users recognise “their” scent”. The composition is close, but not identical, of course. Thomas the perfumer had to invent some tricks…

CLASSIC FORMULA: Paul Prot and perfumer Henri Giboulet working on Gin Fizz in 1955.
Which fragrance is the house’s best seller?

We have several good sellers: Gin Fizz, of course, but also Akkad, Grisette, Black Jade and Idole are best-sellers on a worldwide basis. But every single country has its peculiarities, sometimes with unexpected leaders. Epidor is dominant in Anglo-Saxon countries, while L’Eau Neuve is a big hit in France.

Do you have a favourite Lubin fragrance?

Several, the ones that I sometimes wear, some of them even discontinued for legal reasons. But I should say my SOTD is always a perfume that is not released yet, which I enjoy very egoistically, knowing that no one else in the world has access to it. This is the real time of the discovery, before you have the opportunity to smell it on other persons.

All images supplied by Lubin, except Lubin Upper Ten. The Lubin boutique can be found at 21 rue des Canettes, Saint Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris. For more information on Lubin, read here. 

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Frédéric Malle Une Rose Review: A Dark, Wine-Soaked Classic

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

When Frédéric Malle launched his niche fragrance company, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, in 2 000, it was a novel idea for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle. Since then the Paris-based niche fragrance company has built its sought-after reputation on a succession of high-quality, classic releases created by the world’s top perfumers, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti. Launched in 2003 and created by Edouard Fléchier, Frédéric Malle Une Rose EDP is one of these classics.

Perfumer

By modern standards, Fléchier isn’t a prolific perfumer, but the Frenchman is highly regarded for creations such as Davidoff EDT, Montana Parfum d’Homme, Christian Lacroix C’est la Vie EDP and Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee EDP. His place in perfume history is assured with the 80s classic Christian Dior Poison. Most recently, in 2018, he created Aramis Tobacco Reserve EDP.

SO WHAT DOES UNE ROSE SMELL LIKE?

There’s no doubt that this is a rose fragrance from the opening, but it’s no ordinary rose. It’s rich, deep and full bodied with fruity and honey undertones, courtesy of the Turkish rose absolute. The production of this extract is a costly process, hence its use only in the finest perfumes. This rose is prominent throughout the stages of the fragrance, but its character morphs as other notes come into play. At times, there’s a slight sweetness to it, but mostly it’s dramatic and uncompromising.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

While taking in the beauty of this rose, the wine dregs add further character and depth to the mix. They bring woodiness to the scent. Geranium is often paired with rose in perfumery and it’s used to great effect in Frédéric Malle Une Rose, adding a herbal facet.

“While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown.”

While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown. The base notes of castoreum and vetiver work well together to complement the earthiness of the truffle accord. Like its edible counterpart, this accord is not for everyone and emphasises the dark aspect of the rose.

Remarkably authentic from start to finish, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a standout in a category where there’s no shortage of competition. It’s expensive, but well worth every hard-earned cent. Sophisticated and luxurious, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a top choice for rose perfume aficionados. Those who are new to rose perfumes might find it a bit overpowering. It will appeal to anyone who values craftsmanship at its best. Officially a fragrance for women, it’s perfectly unisex.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Le Jardin Retrouvé Interview + 15% Discount Code

Le Jardin Retrouvé

Heritage has become an over-traded term in niche perfumery. Some houses (no names mentioned) even invent it to give themselves more credibility. Le Jardin Retrouvé is not one of those companies. Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur.

“The Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur.”

Born in 1914 in St Petersburg, Russia, Yuri eventually settled in Paris, where he met legends such as perfumer Jean Carles (Miss Dior) and Louis Amic of Roure Bertrand Fils & Justin Dupont. He was chief perfumer at the French company for three decades, but became frustrated with the increasingly commercial demands (and limitations of) perfumery. He was also was one of the original founders of the global scent archive the Osmothèque.

Le Jardin Retrouvé
CREATION MASTER: Yuri Gutsatz at work in 1935.

When Yuri founded Le Jardin Retrouvé in the 70s, he emphasised the importance of quality ingredients. It’s one of the reasons why the family business became a cult favourite over the next few decades. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate. Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016. Much to the joy of previous fans and a new generation of consumers. They chose perfumer Maxence Moutte to recreate fragrances from Yuri’s original formulas.

Le Jardin Retrouvé
HERITAGE GUARDIANS: Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara.

I received a sample pack and a 15ml bottle of Tubéreuse Trianon from the company. The discovery kit contained the following seven EDPs: Eau des Délices, Citron Boboli, Sandalwood Sacré, Rose Trocadéro, Verveine d’Été, Cuir de Russie and Tubéreuse Trianon. The decision to call the company Le Jardin Retrouvé was a wise one. There’s something very natural smelling about all of these fragrances. Le Jardin Retrouvé also makes use of synthetics, which is perfectly acceptable by me. These are scents to personally savour for their quality, craftsmanship and creativity. The kind you want to yourself. No need to broadcast them for the approval of others.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

I’ve enjoyed wearing every one of them, but two stand out for me. The first is Cuir de Russie. For a superbly evocative review of it, read fellow blogger Elena’s review here.

Tubéreuse Trianon, inspired by a walk in the gardens at the Palace of Versailles, is a personal favourite of mine. I’m always keen to try fragrances containing the white floral and this EDP is one of the best I’ve smelled so far.

It opens with an unmistakable waft of tuberose, which is sourced from India. Fresh and luscious, it’s complemented by notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang, without smothering them. Hints of raspberry, coconut and coriander add another dimension to the scent. As to be expected, it’s on the sweet side, but in a sophisticated way. I’ve been wearing Tubéreuse Trianon in sweltering heat here in Johannesburg. It’s the ideal weather to reveal its complexity.

Michel and Clara answered the following questions. At the end of the interview, you will find details regarding a fabulous 15% discount.

In what ways was the founder of Le Jardin Retrouve, Yuri Gutsatz, a pioneer of niche perfumery?

Michel: For 30 years Yuri worked as a Chief Perfumer at Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Dupont. This was the company that created the business model for perfume brands that still exists now, whereby there are “noses” in each company who create fragrances using a palette of ingredients. The perfumes that are produced are largely driven by marketing briefs, prices, availability of ingredients, etc, and not by creation.

Yuri became dissatisfied with this model. So at the age of 61 he decided to launch Le Jardin Retrouvé, which was the first perfume brand to not follow this model and therefore the first niche perfume brand. He believed that creating perfume is an art and that a perfumer has the power to create true moments of beauty. In creating Le Jardin Retrouvé he distanced himself from the mass production of perfumes and had the chance to create beautiful perfumes without restrictions.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

How did you relaunch the brand while striking a balance between heritage and contemporary tastes?

Clara: When we relaunched the brand we had a choice of about 30 perfumes. Guided by our customers and perfume experts, we chose seven perfumes to launch.

We have an active Facebook group called Le Jardin Retrouvé & YOU which is full of perfume lovers of 34 different nationalities. When we launched our limited edition fragrances (Jasmin Majorelle, Bois Tabac Virginia, Oriental Sans Soucis) we asked our Facebook group to vote for the most popular. Based on their tastes, we decided to launch three out of the four perfumes we offered. We chose to enhance an artistic background, which already existed in the perfumes, by using contemporary digital collages I created.

Why did you choose Maxence Moutte to recreate Yuri’s perfumes?

Michel and Clara: A long time ago we were at a wedding and Maxence was there. He is the brother of a good friend of ours. As a professional perfumer he knew about Yuri. He came up to us with lots of questions about him and also said he’d love to see Yuri’s laboratory. When we relaunched the brand we immediately asked him if he wanted to be part of the adventure and to our delight, he said yes.

RELAUNCH TEAM: Clara and Michel with Maxence Moutte.
What makes your store in Montmartre a unique experience?

Clara: It has our whole range of perfumes, candles and skincare. Above each perfume is an artwork by me reflecting the fragrance. It is also where we host our experiences where you can learn about our secret world of perfumery.

When you enter our store you see our “Wall of Emotions” where people leave lovely notes about their experience at Le Jardin Retrouvé. Then we have our timeline where you can see clearly the brand’s unique history. We are one of the only perfumeries in Paris that has a laboratory in store. In the laboratory you can see all the ingredients that Maxence uses to recreate Yuri’s perfumes and Yuri’s first formula which he created in 1934. Finally we have our Experience Room, an immersive and multi-sensorial space where you can discover our perfumes in the magical garden I created.

Will new fragrances be added to the collection?

Michel and Clara: We still have lots of Yuri’s formulas that are yet to be recreated. Our candle, Mousse Mystique, is very popular and there is demand for that to be turned into a perfume.

The Le Jardin Retrouvé store can be found at 55 rue Montmartre, Fond de Cour Rez-de Chaussée, 75002 Paris.

GET YOUR 15% DISCOUNT!

Visit the Le Jardin Retrouvé website and use the code RICH-LJR to get a 15% discount for two purchases you make. This special offer is valid until the end of 2019.

*All images provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé, except Tubéreuse Trianon. 

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Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Something interesting happened in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was appointed creative director of Gucci. Apart from a new direction for the Italian luxury brand’s collections, it started to take much-needed bold risks with its fragrances, too. This was exemplified by the unusual leather fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP and the heavy florals of Gucci Bloom EDP. The recent launch of Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur EDP builds on that momentum.

It’s a unisex scent, which is pretty much standard in the niche category. But it’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance. Gucci also claims that it’s innovative in that it establishes a new olfactive family, mineral aromatic, but more about that below.

“It’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance.”

Perfumer

Alberto Morillas has created all of the recent Gucci releases. The Spaniard is one of the most prolific perfumers of our time and is well known for a slew of commercial classics. These include Bulgari Man EDT, cK One EDT, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT, Givenchy Pi EDT, Mugler Cologne, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT, Versace Pour Homme EDT and YSL M7 EDT. In 2015, he launched his own perfume company, Mizensir, in Geneva, Switzerland.

The brand stresses that Morillas created Memoire d’une Odeur in close collaboration with Michele. This kind of partnership is not always the case in the creation of a designer fragrance.

MAKING MEMORIES: Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele with Harry Styles, one of the stars of the Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur ad campaign, at the Met Gala in May 2019. Image: Gucci.com.
SO WHAT DOES GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR SMELL LIKE?

Memoire d’une Odeur is inspired by the power of memories and their intimate link with the sense of smell.

The first thing that is noticeable about this fragrance is its camomile note. Morillas used the Roman version, which has been grown in the city for a number of centuries. It’s known for its sweetness, but here it has more of a herbal and green character.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Camomile is commonly paired with jasmine, so it’s no surprise to see the perfumer making use of this duo in the heart of the fragrance. He used an exclusive version of the floral – Indian coral jasmine – to give it a honeyed aspect. It’s not sweet or overpowering in the least. A big dose of musk brings cosy warmth. The woody drydown features notes of cedar and sandalwood. Vanilla enhances the creaminess of the latter.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

What about the claim that this pairing of camomile and jasmine sees the creation of a new olfactive family: mineral aromatic? It’s a little over the top, as it’s not the first time this combination has been used in perfumery. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that Gucci should be applauded for trying something different and that’s not trend-driven.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

There are already many negative online reviews on this fragrance. Perhaps the high-profile media campaign across all channels created the wrong kind of expectations that it would be an intense experience. Instead, Memoire d’une Odeur is a soothing and soft scent. Using the memories analogy, it’s hazy and blurred, rather than vivid and hyper real. This makes it a far more interesting proposition.

R1 195 for 40ml, R1 635 for 60ml and R2 225 for 100ml. For more information, read here.. 

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Best Statement Fragrances

Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

Statement Fragrances

ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Statement Fragrances

NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

Statement Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

Statement Fragrances

KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

Statement Fragrances

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

Statement Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

Statement Fragrances

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

Statement Fragrances

* Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence
MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence