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Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

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Best Designer Fragrances Of 2019: The Flankers Edition – Dior Joy Intense, YSL Y EDP, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal, Dunhill Century Blue, Bulgari Man Wood Neroli, Oscar de la Renta Bella Rosa, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.

This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.

Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.

Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.

The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.

R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.  

It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.

It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.

R1 860 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.

Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.

R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?

DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP

I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.

There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.

There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.

R1 495 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)

The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.

Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.

But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.

R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.

The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.

While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.

R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)

Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.

Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.

It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.

R995 for 100ml.

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)

Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.

That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.

It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.

R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

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Gilles Thévenin Interview: Leading Lubin Into A New Era Of Haute Parfumerie

Gilles Thévenin

The perfume gods were clearly thinking of me a few months ago when a friend very generously gave me a bag full of Lubin samples. He’d been given them when he met the president of the legendary French perfume house, Gilles Thévenin, on a trip to Europe. I’ve been aware of Lubin for several years, but had never had the pleasure of smelling any of their fragrances. So what a joy it has been to go through the samples from their various collections, including Classique, Talismania and Evocations.

Gilles Thévenin

I’ve loved many of the scents I got to try, especially the deeper oriental scents Akkad EDP and Korrigan EDP, created by Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine respectively.

My favourite, though, would have to be Upper Ten EDP, created by Thomas Fontaine. It opens in lightly fresh and spicy territory with notes of pink pepper bergamot, juniper berries and specifically cardamom. The spicy profile is amplified with a big dose of cinnamon, which is beautifully contrasted with a deep leather note and a hint of juicy peach. The drydown is all about the balance between the rich woody and earthy aspects (cedar, sandalwood, patchouli) and musk. Distinctive in its own right, I can also definitely say it’s a Lubin creation, having now tried many of the house’s releases.

Gilles Thévenin Interview

I contacted Gilles Thévenin via email and he answered my questions on the same day I sent them to him. Before we get to the interview, though, I will give you a super-quick history of the house.

Pierre-François Lubin (pictured below) founded the maison in Paris in 1798. Early customers Gilles Théveninincluded Napoleon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, and the Russian and English royal courts. The 19th century saw its expansion under apprentice Felix Prot and his son, Paul. Both of them innovated the business with the construction of factories.

Lubin was particularly popular in America in the 20th century, with releases such as Nuit de Longchamp (1937) and Gin Fizz (1955) capturing the spirit of the times. It stayed in the Prot family until the end of the 1960s, but fell into decline after being sold. Gilles Thévenin revived the company in the early 21st century with Paul Prot’s sons, Laurent and Frédéric.

Tell me about your background.

I graduated from a French business school in 1981. Then I left for Asia, where  I spent two years at the trade commission of the French embassy in Jakarta. I travelled around Asia, from China to Nepal, and to remote places before they were invaded by mass tourism. Back to France, I started my career in perfumes in the mid-1980s, the golden age. I spent most of my career at Guerlain, where my last assignment was the international direction of creation. I left Guerlain when the family decided to sell to the LVMH group.

Gilles Thévenin

Why did you decide to buy Lubin?

I realised in 1996 that Lubin had been purchased two years before by Wella, the German group I was working for, together with a bunch of other brands. Among those brands was the Gucci perfume licence. I was then working at Parfums Rochas, which belonged to Wella as well. Everyone at Wella was obsessed by Gucci and the new potential the brand would offer under the direction of Tom Ford. They would entirely focus on the launch of Envy, the first Gucci fragrance of the new generation, planned in 1996.

Gilles Thévenin

In my eyes, on the contrary, Lubin, a legendary French brand, looked much more interesting. I had been impregnated by traditional luxury perfumery at Guerlain. After I tried convincing the board of the group to start Lubin again in the field of “haute parfumerie”, I realised they wouldn’t do it. I decided then to go on my own. It took another six years, after I left Rochas in 1998, before I could get hold of the brand and its archives, which were sold to me in 2004.

Gilles Thévenin

“The first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.” – Gilles Thévenin

What challenges have you experienced since you bought the company?

Unfortunately, many people have started fragrance businesses in recent years based on new registrations of ancient brands, pretending they are the legitimate owners of the brand’s heritage. In the case of Lubin, where the former owner’s descendants came on board with me in 2006 as investors and partners, the first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.

Then the financing, of course – not the easiest part. Finally, to find the “noses” who would understand the brand’s spirit and who would be able to work on the heritage scents, making them compatible with today’s sanitary regulations, without spoiling the original creations.

How have you kept the balance between heritage and modern relevance?

It’s a question of impregnation. Lubin is a brand with a long heritage and an olfactory signature – not that much rational, more like a soul. Lubin has a life of its own, and everyone after having worked a few months with us is able to tell, when smelling a new scent in development, “This is Lubin”, or “It’s not”.

How involved are you in the creation of the fragrances?

I am not a perfume composer, in spite of my long experience. I work mainly with two perfumers, Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine, whose personalities are very different. They both have a precise idea on how to interpret a Lubin creation. Both of them are right in a way. The brand has a rich, multi-faceted personality and a culture of freedom of creation. There’s no marketing briefs here – it’s all about sharing ideas, stories and scent directions.

SHARING IDEAS: Delphine Thierry is one of the perfumers who works with Gilles Thévenin.

Everyone is pulling towards his or her own beliefs on how it should be. I am supposed to make all that work together and keep a certain stylistic coherence. But I don’t consider myself a creator, or an author, nor even a creative director. I just make sure everything runs smoothly and that our perfumes live up to Lubin’s reputation.

LUBIN NOSE: Thomas Fontaine works closely with Gilles Thévenin to maintain the brand’s reputation.

Does Lubin have a distinctive olfactory style?

It’s not for me to judge. I know that I am very fond of the old Lubin scents that we were able to reproduce (for our own information, because it would not be allowed to sell them as they are). It’s my taste and I guess the new scents we make are from the same lineage.

“What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste.”

What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste: for certain ingredients, certain type of accords, and the way the scents develop on the skin. As far as Lubin is concerned, persistent but not overwhelming, most of the time with a soft lift, not a strong one, head notes which remain discrete and not too assertive, and always a very rich dry down with lots of balms and precious woods.

Gin Fizz is one of the house’s classic scents. Is it still made according to the same formula?

The original formula was adapted several times since 1955, because the international regulations change very often. When I took over, the last formula was quite far from the original one. We started again in 2008 from the 1955 original “Henri Giboulet” formula, then it took more than one year to have former lady users recognise “their” scent”. The composition is close, but not identical, of course. Thomas the perfumer had to invent some tricks…

CLASSIC FORMULA: Paul Prot and perfumer Henri Giboulet working on Gin Fizz in 1955.

Which fragrance is the house’s best seller?

We have several good sellers: Gin Fizz, of course, but also Akkad, Grisette, Black Jade and Idole are best-sellers on a worldwide basis. But every single country has its peculiarities, sometimes with unexpected leaders. Epidor is dominant in Anglo-Saxon countries, while L’Eau Neuve is a big hit in France.

Do you have a favourite Lubin fragrance?

Several, the ones that I sometimes wear, some of them even discontinued for legal reasons. But I should say my SOTD is always a perfume that is not released yet, which I enjoy very egoistically, knowing that no one else in the world has access to it. This is the real time of the discovery, before you have the opportunity to smell it on other persons.

All images supplied by Lubin, except Lubin Upper Ten. The Lubin boutique can be found at 21 rue des Canettes, Saint Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris. For more information on Lubin, read here. 

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Frédéric Malle Une Rose Review: A Dark, Wine-Soaked Classic

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

When Frédéric Malle launched his niche fragrance company, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, in 2 000, it was a novel idea for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle. Since then the Paris-based niche fragrance company has built its sought-after reputation on a succession of high-quality, classic releases created by the world’s top perfumers, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti. Launched in 2003 and created by Edouard Fléchier, Frédéric Malle Une Rose EDP is one of these classics.

Perfumer

By modern standards, Fléchier isn’t a prolific perfumer, but the Frenchman is highly regarded for creations such as Davidoff EDT, Montana Parfum d’Homme, Christian Lacroix C’est la Vie EDP and Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee EDP. His place in perfume history is assured with the 80s classic Christian Dior Poison. Most recently, in 2018, he created Aramis Tobacco Reserve EDP.

SO WHAT DOES UNE ROSE SMELL LIKE?

There’s no doubt that this is a rose fragrance from the opening, but it’s no ordinary rose. It’s rich, deep and full bodied with fruity and honey undertones, courtesy of the Turkish rose absolute. The production of this extract is a costly process, hence its use only in the finest perfumes. This rose is prominent throughout the stages of the fragrance, but its character morphs as other notes come into play. At times, there’s a slight sweetness to it, but mostly it’s dramatic and uncompromising.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

While taking in the beauty of this rose, the wine dregs add further character and depth to the mix. They bring woodiness to the scent. Geranium is often paired with rose in perfumery and it’s used to great effect in Frédéric Malle Une Rose, adding a herbal facet.

“While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown.”

While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown. The base notes of castoreum and vetiver work well together to complement the earthiness of the truffle accord. Like its edible counterpart, this accord is not for everyone and emphasises the dark aspect of the rose.

Remarkably authentic from start to finish, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a standout in a category where there’s no shortage of competition. It’s expensive, but well worth every hard-earned cent. Sophisticated and luxurious, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a top choice for rose perfume aficionados. Those who are new to rose perfumes might find it a bit overpowering. It will appeal to anyone who values craftsmanship at its best. Officially a fragrance for women, it’s perfectly unisex.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Le Jardin Retrouvé Interview + 15% Discount Code

Le Jardin Retrouvé

Heritage has become an over-traded term in niche perfumery. Some houses (no names mentioned) even invent it to give themselves more credibility. Le Jardin Retrouvé is not one of those companies. Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur.

“The Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur.”

Born in 1914 in St Petersburg, Russia, Yuri eventually settled in Paris, where he met legends such as perfumer Jean Carles (Miss Dior) and Louis Amic of Roure Bertrand Fils & Justin Dupont. He was chief perfumer at the French company for three decades, but became frustrated with the increasingly commercial demands (and limitations of) perfumery. He was also was one of the original founders of the global scent archive the Osmothèque.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

CREATION MASTER: Yuri Gutsatz at work in 1935.

When Yuri founded Le Jardin Retrouvé in the 70s, he emphasised the importance of quality ingredients. It’s one of the reasons why the family business became a cult favourite over the next few decades. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate. Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016. Much to the joy of previous fans and a new generation of consumers. They chose perfumer Maxence Moutte to recreate fragrances from Yuri’s original formulas.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

HERITAGE GUARDIANS: Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara.

I received a sample pack and a 15ml bottle of Tubéreuse Trianon from the company. The discovery kit contained the following seven EDPs: Eau des Délices, Citron Boboli, Sandalwood Sacré, Rose Trocadéro, Verveine d’Été, Cuir de Russie and Tubéreuse Trianon. The decision to call the company Le Jardin Retrouvé was a wise one. There’s something very natural smelling about all of these fragrances. Le Jardin Retrouvé also makes use of synthetics, which is perfectly acceptable by me. These are scents to personally savour for their quality, craftsmanship and creativity. The kind you want to yourself. No need to broadcast them for the approval of others.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

I’ve enjoyed wearing every one of them, but two stand out for me. The first is Cuir de Russie. For a superbly evocative review of it, read fellow blogger Elena’s review here.

Tubéreuse Trianon, inspired by a walk in the gardens at the Palace of Versailles, is a personal favourite of mine. I’m always keen to try fragrances containing the white floral and this EDP is one of the best I’ve smelled so far.

It opens with an unmistakable waft of tuberose, which is sourced from India. Fresh and luscious, it’s complemented by notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang, without smothering them. Hints of raspberry, coconut and coriander add another dimension to the scent. As to be expected, it’s on the sweet side, but in a sophisticated way. I’ve been wearing Tubéreuse Trianon in sweltering heat here in Johannesburg. It’s the ideal weather to reveal its complexity.

Michel and Clara answered the following questions. At the end of the interview, you will find details regarding a fabulous 15% discount.

In what ways was the founder of Le Jardin Retrouve, Yuri Gutsatz, a pioneer of niche perfumery?

Michel: For 30 years Yuri worked as a Chief Perfumer at Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Dupont. This was the company that created the business model for perfume brands that still exists now, whereby there are “noses” in each company who create fragrances using a palette of ingredients. The perfumes that are produced are largely driven by marketing briefs, prices, availability of ingredients, etc, and not by creation.

Yuri became dissatisfied with this model. So at the age of 61 he decided to launch Le Jardin Retrouvé, which was the first perfume brand to not follow this model and therefore the first niche perfume brand. He believed that creating perfume is an art and that a perfumer has the power to create true moments of beauty. In creating Le Jardin Retrouvé he distanced himself from the mass production of perfumes and had the chance to create beautiful perfumes without restrictions.

Le Jardin Retrouvé

How did you relaunch the brand while striking a balance between heritage and contemporary tastes?

Clara: When we relaunched the brand we had a choice of about 30 perfumes. Guided by our customers and perfume experts, we chose seven perfumes to launch.

We have an active Facebook group called Le Jardin Retrouvé & YOU which is full of perfume lovers of 34 different nationalities. When we launched our limited edition fragrances (Jasmin Majorelle, Bois Tabac Virginia, Oriental Sans Soucis) we asked our Facebook group to vote for the most popular. Based on their tastes, we decided to launch three out of the four perfumes we offered. We chose to enhance an artistic background, which already existed in the perfumes, by using contemporary digital collages I created.

Why did you choose Maxence Moutte to recreate Yuri’s perfumes?

Michel and Clara: A long time ago we were at a wedding and Maxence was there. He is the brother of a good friend of ours. As a professional perfumer he knew about Yuri. He came up to us with lots of questions about him and also said he’d love to see Yuri’s laboratory. When we relaunched the brand we immediately asked him if he wanted to be part of the adventure and to our delight, he said yes.

RELAUNCH TEAM: Clara and Michel with Maxence Moutte.

What makes your store in Montmartre a unique experience?

Clara: It has our whole range of perfumes, candles and skincare. Above each perfume is an artwork by me reflecting the fragrance. It is also where we host our experiences where you can learn about our secret world of perfumery.

When you enter our store you see our “Wall of Emotions” where people leave lovely notes about their experience at Le Jardin Retrouvé. Then we have our timeline where you can see clearly the brand’s unique history. We are one of the only perfumeries in Paris that has a laboratory in store. In the laboratory you can see all the ingredients that Maxence uses to recreate Yuri’s perfumes and Yuri’s first formula which he created in 1934. Finally we have our Experience Room, an immersive and multi-sensorial space where you can discover our perfumes in the magical garden I created.

Will new fragrances be added to the collection?

Michel and Clara: We still have lots of Yuri’s formulas that are yet to be recreated. Our candle, Mousse Mystique, is very popular and there is demand for that to be turned into a perfume.

The Le Jardin Retrouvé store can be found at 55 rue Montmartre, Fond de Cour Rez-de Chaussée, 75002 Paris.

GET YOUR 15% DISCOUNT!

Visit the Le Jardin Retrouvé website and use the code RICH-LJR to get a 15% discount for two purchases you make. This special offer is valid until the end of 2019.

*All images provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé, except Tubéreuse Trianon. 

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Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Something interesting happened in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was appointed creative director of Gucci. Apart from a new direction for the Italian luxury brand’s collections, it started to take much-needed bold risks with its fragrances, too. This was exemplified by the unusual leather fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP and the heavy florals of Gucci Bloom EDP. The recent launch of Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur EDP builds on that momentum.

It’s a unisex scent, which is pretty much standard in the niche category. But it’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance. Gucci also claims that it’s innovative in that it establishes a new olfactive family, mineral aromatic, but more about that below.

“It’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance.”

Perfumer

Alberto Morillas has created all of the recent Gucci releases. The Spaniard is one of the most prolific perfumers of our time and is well known for a slew of commercial classics. These include Bulgari Man EDT, cK One EDT, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT, Givenchy Pi EDT, Mugler Cologne, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT, Versace Pour Homme EDT and YSL M7 EDT. In 2015, he launched his own perfume company, Mizensir, in Geneva, Switzerland.

The brand stresses that Morillas created Memoire d’une Odeur in close collaboration with Michele. This kind of partnership is not always the case in the creation of a designer fragrance.

MAKING MEMORIES: Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele with Harry Styles, one of the stars of the Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur ad campaign, at the Met Gala in May 2019. Image: Gucci.com.

SO WHAT DOES GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR SMELL LIKE?

Memoire d’une Odeur is inspired by the power of memories and their intimate link with the sense of smell.

The first thing that is noticeable about this fragrance is its camomile note. Morillas used the Roman version, which has been grown in the city for a number of centuries. It’s known for its sweetness, but here it has more of a herbal and green character.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Camomile is commonly paired with jasmine, so it’s no surprise to see the perfumer making use of this duo in the heart of the fragrance. He used an exclusive version of the floral – Indian coral jasmine – to give it a honeyed aspect. It’s not sweet or overpowering in the least. A big dose of musk brings cosy warmth. The woody drydown features notes of cedar and sandalwood. Vanilla enhances the creaminess of the latter.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

What about the claim that this pairing of camomile and jasmine sees the creation of a new olfactive family: mineral aromatic? It’s a little over the top, as it’s not the first time this combination has been used in perfumery. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that Gucci should be applauded for trying something different and that’s not trend-driven.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

There are already many negative online reviews on this fragrance. Perhaps the high-profile media campaign across all channels created the wrong kind of expectations that it would be an intense experience. Instead, Memoire d’une Odeur is a soothing and soft scent. Using the memories analogy, it’s hazy and blurred, rather than vivid and hyper real. This makes it a far more interesting proposition.

R1 195 for 40ml, R1 635 for 60ml and R2 225 for 100ml. For more information, read here.. 

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Best Statement Fragrances

Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

Statement Fragrances

ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Statement Fragrances

NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

Statement Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

Statement Fragrances

KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

Statement Fragrances

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

Statement Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

Statement Fragrances

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

Statement Fragrances

* Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

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Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment Review

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

I need no persuasion to try out Elizabeth Arden products, as I’ve always found them to be reliable, packed with ingredients that actually work and value for money. I’m also a sucker for anti-ageing treatments. After all, I am heading for 50 in a few months. So it was a no-brainer when the PR kindly sent me Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment to review.

Prevage is the American beauty brand’s more upmarket anti-ageing range. A skin peel is a great way to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, but can cause irritations. Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment takes the skin peel to a new level of efficiency with a four-week programme of increasingly stronger formulas. There’s a week’s supply of product in each of the four ampules that come in a slick-looking box. The brand promises that you will see results with every week of usage.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

So what’s in these ampules? Each contains a dose of powerful skin-resurfacing ingredients. These include: polyhydroxy and alpha hydroxy acids to gently exfoliate the skin; phosphate salts to help maintain low skin pH; and the antioxidant Idebenone, which protects against ageing environmental aggressors.

As instructed, I’ve been using this product every night after cleansing and am impressed with the results so far. I’m currently on my last ampule. The tone of my skin has improved significantly and there’s a freshness to it. I don’t like finicky regimes and at first, I thought would find the mixing process a hassle, but no such worries.

This treatment is certainly on the pricey side. But for the expense, you’re getting a highly effective anti-ageing treatment that delivers on its promises. Compared to some other premium anti-ageing ranges, it’s competitively priced.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment, R2 100 for 4 x 10ml ampules. For more information, read here. 

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Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

Vetiver Fragrances

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Vetiver Fragrances

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk. 

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

Vetiver Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

Vetiver Fragrances

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

Vetiver Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

Vetiver Fragrances

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

Vetiver Fragrances

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

Vetiver Fragrances

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

Vetiver Fragrances

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves. 

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

Vetiver Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

Vetiver Fragrances

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Vetiver Fragrances