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Interview with Shyamala Maisondieu, Co-Creator Of Lancôme Idôle

Shyamala Maisondieu

When Shyamala Maisondieu was awarded the 2019 Prix François Coty in recognition of her career and creations, it was confirmation of what I had known for a while. The Malaysian-born perfumer is one of the brightest perfume talents of her generation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

A quick snap-shot of her diverse creations/co-creations will tell you that:

  • Etat Libre d’Orange Charogne EDP (2008)
  • Yves Rocher Rose Fraîche EDT(2012)
  • Diesel Only The Brave Wild EDT (2014)
  • Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus EDP (2015)
  • L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)
  • 27 87 Hamaca EDP (2017)
  • Coach Floral EDP (2018)
  • Mugler Cologne Run Free EDT (2018)
  • Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)
  • Coach Dreams EDP (2020)

Image: etatlibredorange.com.

Little wonder Shyamala Maisondieu was chosen to co-create Lancôme Idôle EDP. It’s the first new perfume launch from the French beauty giant since their decade-defining La Vie Est Belle.

It’s too soon to tell whether it will go on to repeat the success of its predecessor. But there’s no doubting that this new EDP will receive equal amounts of love and hate. For my review of this clean rose fragrance, please see my Instagram page (@richgoller).

Shyamala Maisondieu

Shyamala Maisondieu chatted to me about this prestige project, its pressures and her perfume career.

What attracted you to the world of perfumery?

I actually came to it by accident. It was after I had graduated in chemical engineering, was looking for a job and happened to see an advertisement in a local newspaper in Malaysia looking for graduates with a chemistry background. But what attracted me was the mention that I would be willing to travel and live in another country.

“It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.”

What really won me over was when I met a perfumer who told me all about his job, and I realised there and then, it was exactly what I wanted to do. It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: liquidesimaginaires.com.

Where did you study? What was the most important thing you learned there?

I was very, very lucky to have been able to study at the perfumery school of Givaudan, while it was in Grasse. I had a teacher, Francoise Marin, who insisted on us being curious. That has stayed with me and fuelled how I see life in general. I am always open to new ideas. That is one of the most important things about being a perfumer.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the first fragrance you created and how do you feel about it now?

I’ve had two different perfumery lives. I started off as a perfumer in consumer products (detergent, soaps and shampoo). And then in 2016 I joined the Givaudan fine fragrance team. There are two fragrances which I created at that time: Tom Ford Bois Marocain EDP [2009] and Eau de Sisley 3 EDP [2009]. I still am very proud of them. They are both raw and at the same time express very much what I like in perfumery – a central focus on natural raw materials.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: tomford.com.

How would you describe yourself as a perfumer?

Difficult question to answer. I love what I do and feel so blessed to be able to do what I do every day. But it was a long and difficult road, quite bumpy at times. I wouldn’t be here if it hadn’t been for many people, luck, but also a lot of hard work and patience. Trying to be positive, I have a happy outlook in my life and respect people. I hope that reflects in my work.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the brief for Lancôme Idôle in terms of its olfactory profile?

It was to create a new olfactory profile that would appeal to the younger generation, but also globally. It was a challenging brief. Givaudan had done an interesting study to understand what was internationally appealing. The idea of the smell of cleanliness was important. With my background and early experience in other product categories, I had an idea of what could smell clean. So I created this Clean & Glow accord, which straight away was loved by the fragrance developers at Lancôme.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Idôle is the brand’s first new fragrance following the huge success of La Vie est Belle. Did you feel any pressure to create another blockbuster?

Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare. But we had a great team and L’Oréal [the owner of Lancôme] also had that same pressure. Everyone was committed and we worked hard. We had a goal and somehow the pressure was turned into a positive motivation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

You co-created the fragrance with Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadege le Garlantezec. How does this kind of collaboration work? Are you responsible for different parts?

The creation process is different for different projects. The main thing is to have great communication within the team. For this project, we all worked in many different ways. We each tried to bring something special to the fragrance and also worked on it in a technical aspect, ie, in terms of strength diffusion and long-lastingness. Each of us brought something specific, but which wasn’t completely defined at the beginning. It sort of comes out because of our history, our background and the raw materials which we love.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Shyamala Maisondieu, Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadège Le Garlantezec co-created Lancôme Idôle.

Have you read reviews of the fragrance?

I’m still too nervous to read them. I think I’ll wait.

“Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare.”

You’re married to perfumer Antoine Maisondieu and work for the same company. How do you support each other?

Antoine and I have been separated for some time now, six years. But we met at perfumery school and were friends and colleagues before being husband and wife. We have managed to come back to that. Being friends and colleagues, but with something special still remaining in that, we trust each other. It is a question of sharing many things, be it ideas or information, or critical advice on each other’s perfumes.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: inter.mugler.com.

What other projects are you working on / have just completed?

I’ve just completed a new fragrance for Etat Libre d’Orange (I love this brand). I’m working with other colleagues on various projects, which is a lot of fun as I am learning from them. And I’m starting a lot of new ideas, but it’s still too early to see where they will end up.

For more info on Lancôme Idôle, read here. 

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Textures Of Cape Town (Beyond The Sun, Sea & Sand)

Cape Town

From its beaches and Table Mountain to its laid-back lifestyle, Cape Town is celebrated for its beauty. But beauty is often to be found in the less obvious and more intriguing textures and details. I’ve deliberately not captioned most of these pics from a recent, all-too-brief trip to the city. Sometimes copy unnecessarily directs our thoughts.

Cape Town

Close-up of a work by AD-Reflex at the Hindsights and Foresights exhibition at the Deepest Darkest Contemporary Gallery, De Waterkant, Cape Town.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Okay, so I had to include one pic of H20. I ain’t no water baby, but I always find looking at it soothing and relaxing.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

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Fruity Fragrances Mix (Who Says They’re All Too Sweet)

Fruity Fragrances

Styles come and go, but the popularity of fruity fragrances (in particular fruity florals in recent years) shows no signs of abating. There’s a huge variety of fruity fragrances on offer. Popular notes include peach, pear, plum, fig, apricot, black currant and lychee. More exotic options include goji berries, maninka and dragon fruit.

This list does not include citrus fragrances, as justifiably they belong to a whole category in themselves. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite fruity fragrances?

Fruity Fragrances

DIPTYQUE FLORABELLIO EDT* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

The Paris-based niche fragrance house has been producing standout scents since the 1960s. Launched in 2015, Florabellio is an unusual, yet softly evocative scent. Strictly speaking, it’s a floral scent, but it’s got fruity nuances, hence its inclusion on this list.

It opens with marine and sea salt accents, with a hint of herbal fennel in the background. These blend seamlessly with apple blossom and osmanthus (with its apricot qualities). A waft of coffee is discernible throughout.

It’s a great example of how contrasts can be treated in a subtle and sophisticated way.

Fruity Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Diptyque Philosykos is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig perfumes. But it would be remiss of me not to also point you in the direction of the first fig fragrance, Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same perfumer.

Launched in 1994, it brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green territory with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe fig. A milky, woody ambience is created through a combination of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

Want a more intense and darker fig experience? Then try L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP.

Fruity Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)

We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s. The legendary French perfumer produced it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his niche fragrance company at the beginning of the century.

Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes. It eventually settles on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.

Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any fruity fragrance I’ve smelled before.

Fruity Fragrances

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP* (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house is all the proof you need that fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk. It’s undoubtedly the star of this scent show, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft take on the fruity fragrances theme and gets the balance between slightly sweet and sour just right.

Fruity Fragrances

DIOR BELLE DE JOUR EDP (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

Fruity florals have been one of the big fragrance trends in recent years, but can be strident and sickly sweet. From the French luxury fashion brand’s exclusive La Collection Privée, Belle de Jour is none of these things.

A rose note with fruity accents takes the leading role in this composition. It’s skilfully paired with dollops of juicy pear and peach, bringing just the right amount of sweetness to the sensual affair. Woodiness and powderiness give complexity to the drydown.

Although not as “sexy” as the brand claims, Belle de Jour is the epitome of Dior elegance.

Fruity Fragrances

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

The American designer knows how to grab our attention with a provocative name. His latest release is called Rose Prick and then there was the none-too-subtle Fucking Fabulous from 2017. But fortunately, there’s more to his fragrances than just marketing tricks.

Launched in 2018, Lost Cherry makes a decadent statement from the opening notes of cherry and cherry liqueur. A bitter almond note provides pleasing contrast. The theme of sweet and sour continues through to the heart of the scent, featuring jasmine sambac and Turkish rose notes.

After all that excess, it behaves itself on a base of tonka bean, Peru balsam and sandalwood notes.

Fruity Fragrances

BRITNEY SPEARS MIDNIGHT FANTASY EDP** (CAROLINE SABAS)

If you like your fruit juicy and sticky, Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy is your girl. As with all Britney Spears fragrances, this 2006 release doesn’t hold back and is what you might call a guilty pleasure. The fact that it can be bought for next to nothing adds to the sense of cheap thrills.

The opening notes of raspberry, black cherry and plum announce their fruity intentions with flamboyance. They are followed by a floral display of iris, orchid and freesia notes.

Unashamedly sweet all the way to the base notes of amber and vanilla, it’s got the fun and youthful factor in abundance.

Fruity Fragrances

DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE FOR WOMEN EDP** (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

As a floriental fragrance Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP is opulent in all the right ways. Originally launched in 2006, it’s lost none of its power and sophistication.

Fresh notes of bergamot and mandarin quickly give way to juicy notes of lychee and peach in the intro. Notes of lily and jasmine flirt with plum in the heart of the scent, while vanilla, musk and amber stand out in the drydown.

If the EDP is too much of a good thing for you, this fragrance is available in a lighter (and equally captivating) EDT version.

Fruity Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S EMPRESSA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

British niche brand Penhaligon’s has been in the fragrance biz since 1870 and is known for a slew of classics, including Bluebell and Lily of the Valley. It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. Empressa is as luxurious as it sounds.

There’s a brief citrus opening, but that’s not why I love this 2014 release. It’s the fruity heart of peach, dewberry and cassis intermingled with floral and spice notes that makes me swoon.

Featuring notes of patchouli, cocoa, sandalwood and brown sugar, the base completes the classy mood.

Fruity Fragrances

BYREDO PULP EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Since its founding in 2006, the Swedish niche fragrance brand has made a name for itself with distinctive fragrances such as Bal d’Afrique and Rose of No Man’s Land. Launched in 2008, Pulp is as idiosyncratic as you can get.

It dishes up a rich melange of ripe fruity notes – black currant, fig and apple – with traces of spicy cardamom and citrusy bergamot in the background.

Notes of tiara flower and peach blossom add a floral flourish, while a gourmand element sneaks in in the form of a praline note.

Those with more daring tastes will love its boldness.

Image: Byredo.com.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

**Available at Dis-Chem.

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Perfume Ads That Are Memorable For All The Right Reasons

Perfume Ads

WORK OF ART: René Gruau for Dior Diorissimo.

What is it about so many perfume ads that makes them cringe-worthy or unintentionally hilarious?

Perhaps it’s the standard, supposedly sexy voiceover in husky overtones. I’ve lost count of the variations on this theme. Or is it the clichéd imagery? Take your pick from any one of the following scenarios. Woman draped around a bottle for dear life. Square-jawed man staring intently/creepily at you. Intertwined couples staring into the distance, because there ain’t no chemistry. Now, I’m no prude. I love a sexy ad. But then I want some chemistry. And sexy often means what you don’t show.

Below are some of my favourite perfume ads through the decades. Are you ready for a dose of good ol’ nostalgia? Which are your favourite perfume ads? And your worst?

RENE GRUAU FOR DIOR

The Italian-born illustrator worked for many high-profile clients, including Balmain, Givenchy and Schiaperelli. But he is most well-known for his bold ads for Dior from the 1940s to 1990s.

The illustrator’s iconic ads for the French luxury fashion maison never fail to captivate me. As John Galliano, former Dior head designer, said in an interview with the Telegraph, “A Gruau sketch captures the energy, the sophistication and daring of Dior.” The originals, of course, are now coveted collector’s items.

CHANEL EGOISTE

A provocatively named scent deserves an over-the-top treatment. And that’s exactly what director Jean-Paul Goude delivered for Chanel’s masculine fragrance, Égoïste, in 1990. The award-winning ad entailed a partial reconstruction of the InterContinental Carlton Cannes Hotel in a desert near Rio de Janeiro at a reported cost of $1 million.

Who can forget the vision of all those pissed-off women opening and closing the shuttered doors to the soundtrack of Sergei Prokofiev’s Dance of the Knights. Melodramatic and magnificent!

KENZO WORLD

Fragrance ads can be woefully lacking in humour. However, Spike Jonze’s commercial, more like a short film, for Kenzo World in 2016 took it to new levels of wonderful wackiness. American actress and dancer Margaret Qualley deserved an Oscar for her possessed performance in this modern classic. Created by Francis Kurkdjian, the fragrance itself wasn’t bad either.

https://youtu.be/ABz2m0olmPg?t=2

DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE FEATURING DAVID GANDY

Okay, forget what I said earlier about too much flesh in my post. The big-production ads for Dolce & Gabbana starring British model David Gandy and directed by Mario Testino over the last two decades got the mix just right.

Gorgeous locations + abundant chemistry + cheeky sense of humour + male beauty at its finest = 💙 💙 💙

CALVIN KLEIN OBSESSION

The 90s were the decade of Kate Moss and the ad that made her a star was for Calvin Klein Obsession. It was shot in 1993 on the Virgin Islands by photographer Mario Sorrenti, when the model was 18 years old. Looking back at this campaign, there’s still something so natural and unforced about it.

The fragrance was re-invented in 2017 as Calvin Klein Obsessed with never-seen-before footage from the original shoot featuring in the advertising campaign, but didn’t have quite the same impact.

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Best Leather Fragrances: From The Smoky ‘N Sexy To The Supremely Smooth

Leather Fragrances

Is there anything sexier than leather fragrances with their sensual and animalic vibe? The idea of wearing a second olfactory skin is both comforting and exotic at the same time.

Leather fragrances have a long history in perfumery and were often the result of attempts to mask the overpowering smell of real animal hides due to the tanning process, according to Fragrantica.

Leather Fragrances

Modern interpretations of leather run the gamut from the hard and obvious to the more refined and subtle. As a note, leather actually doesn’t exist naturally. It’s therefore created through a combination of synthetics and/or natural ingredients, in particular birch tar.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your favourite leather fragrances?

Leather Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE MORNING CHESS EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance with green overtones. This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche fragrance house opens with the freshness of bergamot.

It then goes in a green, semi-bitter direction with the addition of a large shot of resinous galbanum. While this note dominates the scent, there’s no missing the masculine-ish leather note, which lingers in the background throughout. The drydown is deep and earthy, thanks to the patchouli note.

The sharpness of this EDP will not appeal to everyone, so, as always, I recommend that you try it before you buy it.

CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM (MATHILDE LAURENT)

Key notes: Bitter orange, cardamom, spices, cumin, cedar, leather, amberwood, benzoin, tolu balsam, vetiver.

Wear it if you want: A classic leather fragrance with a spicy twist. Launched in 2018 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the classic Cartier Déclaration EDT, the parfum iteration shares some of the characteristics of the original, in particular the bitter orange and cardamom notes.

But like any good flanker, it’s a standout release in its own right. Where the original was fresh and spicy, the parfum goes in a warmer direction, with the addition of cumin. Rich, dark and full of depth, it’s complemented by a woody base that includes notes of cedar, amberwood and vetiver. Benzoin gives it a tinge of sexy smokiness.

Without a doubt, it’s one of the best designer leather fragrances on the market. I wouldn’t expect anything less from Cartier.

Leather Fragrances

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Key notes: Clary sage, lavender, bitter almond, vanilla, leather, orris, tonka bean, leather, cashmeran, amber, white woods.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that’s more than just hype. Mr Ford proved once again his mastery of marketing when this provocatively named fragrance was released in 2017. However, in the process, the shock value overshadowed what is a rather appealing leather scent.

From the brand’s upmarket Private Blend Collection, this oriental opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with lavender in support. The leather note that follows is paired with bitter almond oil, giving it a warm effect. Vanilla adds a hint of sweetness. That vibe continues through to the base, featuring tonka bean, cashmeran and white woods.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

Leather Fragrances

ALAIA ALAIA EDP (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Key notes: Mountain air, pink pepper, peony, freesia, rose, white musk, leather, violet.

Wear it if you want: An impeccably smooth leather fragrance. There’s a good reason why this debut fragrance from the Paris-based luxury fashion brand was awarded the top five stars in the most recent edition of the prestigious Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.

It’s not an obvious leather fragrance. A contrast between cool and warm notes, the Tunisian-born designer wanted it to feel like a second skin. And that’s exactly what the perfumer achieved with it.

The fresh and airy opening progresses to a floral heart with nuances of peony, freesia and rose, settling on a base of leather and white musk.

Officially marketed at women, it’s perfectly unisex, so don’t let that put you off seeking out this example of superb quality.

Leather Fragrances

WIDIAN LONDON EDP* (JORDI FERNANDEZ)

Key notes: Oud, cypress, violet, lily-of-the-valley, raspberry, leather, dry amber, musk, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: A sweet leather fragrance. The gorgeous blue and gold bottle will be the first thing to grab your attention about this 2018 release from the Abu-Dhabi-based niche fragrance company that blends the best of Middle East and Western perfume traditions.

The juice is equally stylish. From the brand’s Sapphire Collection, it opens with the distinctive scent of oud. It’s a slightly sweet and luxurious treatment, which is accentuated by a big raspberry note. Violet adds an element of delicate powderiness.

The leather aspect is present throughout and gives this warm EDP a soft and smooth character. It’s supported by notes of amber, vanilla and musk.

While I don’t get the London inspiration as such, this is a beautifully crafted fragrance from start to finish.

Leather Fragrances

BYREDO BIBLIOTHEQUE EDP*

Key notes: Peach, plum, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla.

Wear it if you want: To feel like you’re in a world of old books. As its name suggests, this perfume (it was originally the Swedish niche fragrance company’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity territory with sweet (but not too sweet) fruity notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring a peony note. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect. The leather base note completes the picture with notes of patchouli and vanilla adding to the intimate feel.

Leather Fragrances

FLORIS MAHON LEATHER EDP*

Key notes: Citruses, jasmine, vetiver, iris, saffron, leather, amber, French labdanum, musk, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood.

Wear it if you want: An old-school leather fragrance with a sense of history. This 2011 release is quintessential gentleman stuff.  It’s inspired by Mahón, the capital of the Spanish island of Menorca, the birthplace of the founder of this British heritage brand, Juan Famenias Floris, which can trace its roots all the way back to 1730.

It reveals its charms from the opening jasmine note featuring animalic properties. A big dose of iris adds powderiness to the composition, while saffron infuses it with a spicy leatheriness. The creamy leather note is perfectly paired with the woody aspects of sandalwood and vetiver, and warm tonka bean.

Leather Fragrances

MEMO RUSSIAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENROR MASSENET)

Key notes: Oil of basil, fougère accord, oil of cedar leaf, oil of Siberian pine needle, oil of coriander seed, heart of lavandin, mint, oil of rosemary, oil of nutmeg, oil of guaiac, oil of patchouli, tonka bean absolute, leather accord, oil of clary sage, cypress absolute.

Wear it if you want: A leather fragrance that will pique your wanderlust. Founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy, Memo is a Paris-based niche fragrance house that produces top-notch scents inspired by the founders’ travel memories. Their leather fragrance collection, Cuir Nomades, includes highly recommended variations such as African, Irish, French and Italian.

The intriguing Russian Leather takes its cue from a Siberian forest. It starts its journey in fougère mode with a fern note. Siberian pine needle focuses the olfactory illusion, with notes of lavender, rosemary and mint providing herbal and green facets.

When the leather note comes through its gentle and soothing and surrounded by woody notes of cypress and patchouli.

This EDP has a fresh, clean, peppery vibe with appealing contrasts.

Leather Fragrances

*These leather fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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The Perfume Decade That Was: And The Awards Go To…

I thought I would let the New Year/New Decade hype die down before taking a light look at the perfume decade that was. And seeing that it’s gong season (well, in Hollywood, anyway), I’m dishing up a variety of fragrance awards. But, unlike those events in La La Land, this ceremony will be admirably short, if I can say so myself. And no teary acceptance speeches required.

These fragrance awards are by no means a definitive take on the 2010s. But hopefully it will highlight some of the key trends and perfumes of the decade in the process.

In the spirit of having fun, are there any fragrance awards you’d like to add to this list?

THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS (AKA SMELL OF THE DECADE) AWARD

Created by a trio of top perfumers, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Ann Flipo, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle has been a best smeller, oops, seller since its launch in 2012. Taking two of the biggest trends of the decade – fruity florals and gourmands – it’s not hard to figure out why it has been such a commercial (and ubiquitous) success. More complex than its sweetness suggests, it’s a very well-composed crowd-pleaser. Will the French beauty brand’s recently launched Idôle scale the same heights in the new decade?

Fragrance Awards

THE UNDER THE INFLUENCE (AKA PERFUME PERSONALITY OF THE DECADE) AWARD

With his media savviness, knowledge, enthusiasm and good looks, Jeremy Fragrance (real name Daniel Schütz) became the quintessential fragrance influencer in the 2010s. Revered, reviled and copied in equal measure, the German-born vlogger is now a bona fide celebrity. In 2019 he took the brave step of launching his own brand, Fragrance One. The utilitarian-sounding Office For Men and Date For Men, created in collaboration with industry veteran Alberto Morillas, have been mercilessly slated online. A spritz of schadenfreude, anyone?

Fragrance Awards

Image: Fragrance One.

THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT (AKA TREND THAT WOULDN’T GO AWAY) AWARD

When Olivier Cresp revolutionised the fragrance world in the 1990s with Mugler Angel little did he know that gourmands would be the olfactive family that keeps on giving and giving. Originally the preserve of female fragrances, men increasingly also wanted in on the sugar action. The result? Hyper-sweet male scents that were guaranteed to give you the equivalent of an olfactory filling.

Fragrance Awards

THE BIG IS BEAUTIFUL (AKA NICHE BRAND OF THE DECADE) AWARD

If there’s one house that epitomised the opportunities of the niche boom during the 2010s, it’s Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Launched in 2009 by the Parisian perfumer, a succession of high-profile releases – Baccarat Rouge 540, Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood, among many others – proved that niche could be big, lucrative and top quality. Little wonder French luxury giant LVMH bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. It was part of the trend of multinationals snapping up niche brands (for example, Estée Lauder and Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in 2014, Puig and L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s in 2015, L’Oréal and Atelier Cologne in 2016). You can read my recent interview with Francis Kurkdjian here.

Fragrance Awards

THE RISKY BEHAVIOUR (AKA PLEASANT SURPRISE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

At a time when designer brands played it all too safe with variations on the same theme, Gucci stood out with a number of releases in the latter part of the decade. Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, the Italian luxury fashion brand took much-needed risks with Gucci Bloom (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute (2017) and Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019) and showed that designer needn’t equal boring and predictable.

Fragrance Awards

THE VICTIMS OF THEIR OWN SUCCESS (AKA BATTLE OF THE DECADE) AWARD

It all started with the launch of Bleu de Chanel in 2010, followed by Dior Sauvage in 2015. By the end of the decade, both brands had launched EDT, EDP and parfum versions of their blockbusters, which led to increasing criticism of their all pervasiveness. That didn’t stop other male designer fragrance brands having their own interpretation of the blue theme.

THE GROWING PAINS (AKA MARKET SHARE) AWARD

As any report from Esxence will attest to, the phenomenal growth of the niche/indie/artisanal fragrance market continued apace over the last 10 years. Almost directly in proportion to more discerning and critical consumers’ fatigue with over-priced, but horribly average perfumes. At its best, niche is synonymous with craftsmanship and creativity, as exemplified by brands such as DS & Durga, Filippo Sorcinelli and Memo. Let’s hope we will see more of that in the new decade.

Want a fantastic round-up of the best fragrances of the last decade? Then Persolaise’s post is essential reading. 

 

 

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Francis Kurkdjian Interview: Always Looking Forward To The Future

November 6 2019 was a special day – it’s when I got to meet Francis Kurkdjian for a tête-à-tête. The Paris-based perfumer was on a break in Stellenbosch, near Cape Town, but generously agreed to a morning of interviews when he was contacted by Skins Cosmetics. Maison Francis Kurkdjian is the best-selling brand at the niche retailer, especially his ouds, Baccarat Rouge 540 and Grand Soir.

Francis Kurkdjian

When we arrive at the venue, Francis Kurkdjian is comfortably dressed in a white shirt, jeans and sneakers. There’s an opportunity to chat before the official interviews about how much he’s enjoying his holiday in the country. We’re all put at ease, as he’s approachable and authentic.

Francis Kurkdjian

But before we get to the actual interview, five quick facts about Francis Kurkdjian. They will give you an idea why he’s one of the most successful creators in modern perfumery.

  • He trained at ISIPCA, the renowned perfume school in Versailles.
  • He made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle in 1995 at the age of 26.
  • This blockbuster was followed by numerous other high-profile scents. Some of these include: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999), Lancôme Miracle Homme EDT (2001), Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005), Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011), Carven Pour Homme EDT (2014) and Mr Burberry EDT (2016).
  • Maison Francis Kurkdjian was launched in 2009 and a majority stake was sold to the French luxury giant LVMH in 2017.
  • He has been awarded the Prix François Coty and named a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.

When it’s my turn to interview Francis Kurkdjian, he invites me to join him on the sofa. The conversation is wide ranging and goes on far longer than our allocated 20 minutes. I’m so excited to be talking to him that I forget to take any pictures of my own with him. So big thanks to Kim Currin, the photographer who was hired to take pictures for the special occasion.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m not wearing anything. I wear what I am working on, but I’m not working on anything right now. I’m taking a creative break. I’m done with 2021 and then I’ll start working on 2022.

Do you work that far ahead?

Yes, always.

Do you love planning?

I love planning [laughs]. And even not doing anything is planned.

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you a bit of a control freak?

[Slight hesitation] Yes, but in a nice way, meaning I like to plan certain things. But I am not going to freak out if something doesn’t happen the way I wanted it. I’ve learned things can be out of my control. And usually if you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak. You need to delegate and accept it will be done the best way possible.

“If you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak.”

Can you tell what fragrance I am wearing today?

Smoke [he smiles] and something else on the side, but I’m not sure what it is. [I’m wearing Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver, which was launched in 2019 as part of a fragrance duo.]

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you sensitive to smoke?

I used to be a smoker myself. I’m sensitive to everything. It’s not just about smoke. It’s just more intense.

I gave up about three months ago. I was tired of smoking and decided not to be dependent. It’s like freeing yourself. Once in a while I smoke, because I don’t want to freak out. I’m here for a birthday party and smoked a little more than I should have done. But tomorrow I will be back in Paris and will not be smoking.

Francis Kurkdjian

When did you love of perfumery start? I read in your bio that you were thinking of becoming a ballet dancer.

That was my dream. It’s still my dream job. I’m too old now.

It’s one of your passions?

It’s not a crazy passion the way people sometimes speak about doing something for passion. I hate fanaticism. It’s very scary. No matter what its objective, it’s too much. I hate fanaticism in perfumes. Sometimes you have fans in perfumes. Perfume is important, but not to a point where you have to become a fanatic.

I was a teenager in the 80s when I started to become fascinated with perfumes. Not only the scent itself. I was hooked on the whole thing – the name, the bottle, the story, the ad. The 80s were a great era for perfume. When I show my team my references, I usually I go back to that era.

What I lOVE about the 80s is that perfumes were unapologetic and big.

Yes, for a scent to be successful, it needs to be big. I remember Fahrenheit, Kouros, Giorgio, Poison…

Your big international debut was with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle and it made your name. Did you feel any pressure to repeat its success?

Yes, it was my first perfume. [Long pause.] To be honest, yes. I tried to pretend not to [laughs], because I don’t like to complain. That was 25 years ago and no matter what I did afterwards, people take you back to that.

I don’t look backwards. I don’t put my prizes on my chimney. I have a very good memory, but I learned to look forward, because first of all you can’t change the past and what good does it do to complain about the past.

But for sure, it brought something different to the perfume industry. Every time I create a scent I try to bring something new. Sometimes you succeed, sometimes you don’t. It also depends on the brand you work for.

Congratulations on Maison Francis Kurkdjian celebrating its 10th year in business this year.

Merci. Thank you. I have a great business partner [Marc Chaya] who really knows how to take care of the brand.

There’s no doubting your creative flair. Would you call yourself a good businessman?

No [laughs]. I’m a good businessman from far away. I felt it was the right time for me to launch my brand, but it’s more about creative slash business. I’m not a good businessman for running a company. My business partner gives me advice and shares his creative vision with me. By far, the company has been successful thanks to him. I create scents, but he gives them resonance with the team in Paris. We now have 60 people in Paris. Every two years, we double the size of the company.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Marc Chaya with Francis Kurkdjian.

That’s a lot of people to worry about.

No, I don’t worry any more. When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way. If something happens to me, the company belongs to a corporation that is capable of pursuing what I started.

“When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way.”

You’re admired by many people for your oud fragrances, although you actually create many other types of fragrances, too. Why do you like to work with oud?

It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery. I then asked myself: Should I use oud the way they do in the Middle East, or should I do it the way I think I should do it? Oud comes from India and it’s very popular in the Middle East, but I should use oud the way I use patchouli from Malaysia in European perfume.

Francis Kurkdjian

You juggle your maison with your work for other brands such as Elie Saab, Burberry and Kenzo? How do you approach them?

I am doing less recently. It’s a different mindset. The best comparison I can give you is if you’re an actor and you perform in a movie with a director on a set that’s not yours. When I work for someone else, first of all you need to read a script, which is a brief, and you search for what can resonate with a part of you. You’re given most of the work. I mean you’re given the material, the landscape is designed for you.

Whereas for my brand, I am the source of the inspiration, and then with my team I build around it. But it’s very egocentric. I’ve always been scared of that egocentricism, because [laughs] I see the damage it brings to the creative community. I got scared when I started working for some other people and I saw the egomania and craziness. You don’t really want to become one of those monsters.

Which perfume do you want to be remembered most for?

Not yet. I hope I have a few more years. I give myself 10 years. I was shocked when I saw Nureyev dancing in one of his last performances and felt sad, even though I had much respect for what he’d achieved. It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that. I don’t want to be a perfumer without something to say.

“It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that.”

I think I have found for me the definition of getting old. It’s when you think it was better before, when you start saying it was better yesterday. When you start thinking about yesterday, basically you are thinking the future is not for you. I want to make sure I’m not going to be indulging in that kind of nostalgia.

How do you keep inspired?

It’s simple, but it needs work. You have to stay connected with your era. I know I’m part of the five percent of the global population who’s very lucky. I can walk in the street and I’m not famous. I can go to the supermarket and chat with the cashier about life. I have that freedom of interaction. Some people don’t have that, because they are too famous.

I also try not to post too many things on Instagram about what I have and what I do. Once in a while I do it. I did it yesterday, because I thought it was important to do it. Otherwise I am not in that cult. I think perfume is not appropriate to become a cult. It’s invisible.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

Francis Kurkdjian

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Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

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Best Designer Fragrances Of 2019: The Flankers Edition – Dior Joy Intense, YSL Y EDP, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal, Dunhill Century Blue, Bulgari Man Wood Neroli, Oscar de la Renta Bella Rosa, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.

This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.

Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.

Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.

The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.

R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.  

It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.

It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.

R1 860 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.

Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.

R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?

DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP

I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.

There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.

There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.

R1 495 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)

The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.

Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.

But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.

R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.

The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.

While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.

R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)

Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.

Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.

It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.

R995 for 100ml.

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)

Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.

That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.

It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.

R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

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Gilles Thévenin Interview: Leading Lubin Into A New Era Of Haute Parfumerie

Gilles Thévenin

The perfume gods were clearly thinking of me a few months ago when a friend very generously gave me a bag full of Lubin samples. He’d been given them when he met the president of the legendary French perfume house, Gilles Thévenin, on a trip to Europe. I’ve been aware of Lubin for several years, but had never had the pleasure of smelling any of their fragrances. So what a joy it has been to go through the samples from their various collections, including Classique, Talismania and Evocations.

Gilles Thévenin

I’ve loved many of the scents I got to try, especially the deeper oriental scents Akkad EDP and Korrigan EDP, created by Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine respectively.

My favourite, though, would have to be Upper Ten EDP, created by Thomas Fontaine. It opens in lightly fresh and spicy territory with notes of pink pepper bergamot, juniper berries and specifically cardamom. The spicy profile is amplified with a big dose of cinnamon, which is beautifully contrasted with a deep leather note and a hint of juicy peach. The drydown is all about the balance between the rich woody and earthy aspects (cedar, sandalwood, patchouli) and musk. Distinctive in its own right, I can also definitely say it’s a Lubin creation, having now tried many of the house’s releases.

Gilles Thévenin Interview

I contacted Gilles Thévenin via email and he answered my questions on the same day I sent them to him. Before we get to the interview, though, I will give you a super-quick history of the house.

Pierre-François Lubin (pictured below) founded the maison in Paris in 1798. Early customers Gilles Théveninincluded Napoleon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, and the Russian and English royal courts. The 19th century saw its expansion under apprentice Felix Prot and his son, Paul. Both of them innovated the business with the construction of factories.

Lubin was particularly popular in America in the 20th century, with releases such as Nuit de Longchamp (1937) and Gin Fizz (1955) capturing the spirit of the times. It stayed in the Prot family until the end of the 1960s, but fell into decline after being sold. Gilles Thévenin revived the company in the early 21st century with Paul Prot’s sons, Laurent and Frédéric.

Tell me about your background.

I graduated from a French business school in 1981. Then I left for Asia, where  I spent two years at the trade commission of the French embassy in Jakarta. I travelled around Asia, from China to Nepal, and to remote places before they were invaded by mass tourism. Back to France, I started my career in perfumes in the mid-1980s, the golden age. I spent most of my career at Guerlain, where my last assignment was the international direction of creation. I left Guerlain when the family decided to sell to the LVMH group.

Gilles Thévenin

Why did you decide to buy Lubin?

I realised in 1996 that Lubin had been purchased two years before by Wella, the German group I was working for, together with a bunch of other brands. Among those brands was the Gucci perfume licence. I was then working at Parfums Rochas, which belonged to Wella as well. Everyone at Wella was obsessed by Gucci and the new potential the brand would offer under the direction of Tom Ford. They would entirely focus on the launch of Envy, the first Gucci fragrance of the new generation, planned in 1996.

Gilles Thévenin

In my eyes, on the contrary, Lubin, a legendary French brand, looked much more interesting. I had been impregnated by traditional luxury perfumery at Guerlain. After I tried convincing the board of the group to start Lubin again in the field of “haute parfumerie”, I realised they wouldn’t do it. I decided then to go on my own. It took another six years, after I left Rochas in 1998, before I could get hold of the brand and its archives, which were sold to me in 2004.

Gilles Thévenin

“The first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.” – Gilles Thévenin

What challenges have you experienced since you bought the company?

Unfortunately, many people have started fragrance businesses in recent years based on new registrations of ancient brands, pretending they are the legitimate owners of the brand’s heritage. In the case of Lubin, where the former owner’s descendants came on board with me in 2006 as investors and partners, the first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.

Then the financing, of course – not the easiest part. Finally, to find the “noses” who would understand the brand’s spirit and who would be able to work on the heritage scents, making them compatible with today’s sanitary regulations, without spoiling the original creations.

How have you kept the balance between heritage and modern relevance?

It’s a question of impregnation. Lubin is a brand with a long heritage and an olfactory signature – not that much rational, more like a soul. Lubin has a life of its own, and everyone after having worked a few months with us is able to tell, when smelling a new scent in development, “This is Lubin”, or “It’s not”.

How involved are you in the creation of the fragrances?

I am not a perfume composer, in spite of my long experience. I work mainly with two perfumers, Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine, whose personalities are very different. They both have a precise idea on how to interpret a Lubin creation. Both of them are right in a way. The brand has a rich, multi-faceted personality and a culture of freedom of creation. There’s no marketing briefs here – it’s all about sharing ideas, stories and scent directions.

SHARING IDEAS: Delphine Thierry is one of the perfumers who works with Gilles Thévenin.

Everyone is pulling towards his or her own beliefs on how it should be. I am supposed to make all that work together and keep a certain stylistic coherence. But I don’t consider myself a creator, or an author, nor even a creative director. I just make sure everything runs smoothly and that our perfumes live up to Lubin’s reputation.

LUBIN NOSE: Thomas Fontaine works closely with Gilles Thévenin to maintain the brand’s reputation.

Does Lubin have a distinctive olfactory style?

It’s not for me to judge. I know that I am very fond of the old Lubin scents that we were able to reproduce (for our own information, because it would not be allowed to sell them as they are). It’s my taste and I guess the new scents we make are from the same lineage.

“What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste.”

What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste: for certain ingredients, certain type of accords, and the way the scents develop on the skin. As far as Lubin is concerned, persistent but not overwhelming, most of the time with a soft lift, not a strong one, head notes which remain discrete and not too assertive, and always a very rich dry down with lots of balms and precious woods.

Gin Fizz is one of the house’s classic scents. Is it still made according to the same formula?

The original formula was adapted several times since 1955, because the international regulations change very often. When I took over, the last formula was quite far from the original one. We started again in 2008 from the 1955 original “Henri Giboulet” formula, then it took more than one year to have former lady users recognise “their” scent”. The composition is close, but not identical, of course. Thomas the perfumer had to invent some tricks…

CLASSIC FORMULA: Paul Prot and perfumer Henri Giboulet working on Gin Fizz in 1955.

Which fragrance is the house’s best seller?

We have several good sellers: Gin Fizz, of course, but also Akkad, Grisette, Black Jade and Idole are best-sellers on a worldwide basis. But every single country has its peculiarities, sometimes with unexpected leaders. Epidor is dominant in Anglo-Saxon countries, while L’Eau Neuve is a big hit in France.

Do you have a favourite Lubin fragrance?

Several, the ones that I sometimes wear, some of them even discontinued for legal reasons. But I should say my SOTD is always a perfume that is not released yet, which I enjoy very egoistically, knowing that no one else in the world has access to it. This is the real time of the discovery, before you have the opportunity to smell it on other persons.

All images supplied by Lubin, except Lubin Upper Ten. The Lubin boutique can be found at 21 rue des Canettes, Saint Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris. For more information on Lubin, read here.