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Christèle Jacquemin Interview: The Accidental Perfumer

Christèle Jacquemin

2020 has affected us all in many ways. For perfumer Christèle Jacquemin it’s been one of highs (her debut perfume, Christèle Jacquemin Impermanence, was nominated in The Art and Olfaction Awards 2020 in the Artisan category), frustrations (postponed plans and travels) and adapting to the new normal.

Christèle Jacquemin

Christèle Jacquemin returned to France after 18 years in Spain and is now based in Valliguières, a village near her hometown of Avignon. Since the launch of her company almost a year ago, the 48-year-old has started making a name for herself with her multi-sensory approach to fragrance.

Her debut collections – Impermanence, Meandering Soul and Underworld – feature photographic artwork (the starting point of her creative process), an EDP, home fragrance oil and artisan soap. Look out for my review of Christèle Jacquemin Impermanence on my Instagram page (@richgoller).

Christèle Jacquemin

Image: Supplied.

In this interview, Christèle Jacquemin talks about inspiration, running a business and the award nomination.

How and why did you get into perfumery?

By accident. I was working in France for a consulting firm, with all my colleagues travelling mainly to Africa, and my job made it difficult for me to travel. So I looked for another job that would make that possible.

I found a job opportunity in southern Spain where they were looking for an area sales manager for Africa. This company is in the fragrance and flavour industry. I was lucky enough to be hired.

Christèle Jacquemin

Image: Supplied.

Where did you train? And what was the most important thing you learned there?

I have been in this industry for the last 20 years. I trained first with all the customers I met. I knew nothing about perfumes. What I learned is that it is quite a complex product to sell. Actually you do not sell, customers buy from you. There is no way to convince them when they do not like a smell. We all smell differently, and that’s okay.

“There is no way to convince customers when they do not like a smell. We all smell differently, and that’s okay.”

After spending 17 years in the same company, I quit my job and trained at Cinquième Sens in Paris to learn how to make perfumes. It was quite a thing to add this knowledge to my ground experience.

Christèle Jacquemin

MULTI-SENSORY EXPERIENCE: Meandering Soul III is one of Christèle Jacquemin’s photographic artworks. Image: Supplied.

When did you officially launch your company? As a creative soul, do you enjoy running a business?

I officially launched my brand in October 2019, which corresponded with my first multi-sensory exhibition in Avignon. It took me a couple of years to get everything set up. I trained to get basic knowledge in running a business. The idea behind all this is to keep on travelling. I really focused on starting in the best possible conditions to make that possible.

Christèle Jacquemin

Image: Supplied.

How has the coronavirus situation affected you, personally and professionally?

Personally, I have not been affected hopefully. But professionally, all the olfactive workshops and exhibitions scheduled from March to September have been either cancelled or postponed. But in the end, all this available time has been quite productive in a different way.

Christèle Jacquemin

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, but you also bring photography to the mix. How do they inspire you?

Photography is a means of expressing my mood. I might be in China, but what I photograph is how I feel at that precise moment. It’s also a way of removing myself from the present. I can be elsewhere in an imaginary world. I love to feel this way.

“I can be elsewhere in an imaginary world. I love to feel this way.”

You were so generous to send me your award-nominated Impermanence. I chose it as the name spoke to me in the current Covid situation. Using it as an example, tell us more about your creative process. Are you more of a technical or intuitive perfumer?

I am an intuitive perfumer. What I try to transmit in the fragrance are my travel sensations. I travel with my camera and a notebook. They are the base of my inspiration to create the scent of the travel. For Impermanence, I wanted to convey a state of well-being I felt while there [Jinze, a town in the suburbs of Shanghai], as well as important smells that remind me of the trip like ginger and green tea.

Christèle Jacquemin

Congrats on the Art and Olfaction Awards 2020 nomination. Who was the first person you shared this great news with?

My father. I was amazed by the news and incredibly happy at the same time. It gave me energy to keep on working hard.

Are you able to share some of your plans with my readers?

I am currently working on three new collections based on my travels before Covid-19. Ideally, I’d like to release them in November.

For more information on Christèle Jacquemin, visit the company website.

 

 

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3 Classic Rose Fragrances: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP + Amouage Lyric Man EDP + Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Classic Rose Fragrances

Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.

Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP

Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.

A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.

According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.

A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa. 

Classic Rose Fragrances

Amouage Lyric Man EDP

Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.

“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”

Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).

Classic Rose Fragrances

It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.

I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.

Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.

Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.

There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.

“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”

As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.

Available on the brand’s website.

Classic Rose Fragrances

 

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M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 Review

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).

Images: Supplied.

For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.

The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.

However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.

5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?

I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!

How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?

I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.

PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.

Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?

From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.

Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?

Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…

The company turns 25 next year. How you will celebrate that achievement?

With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website. 

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

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Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress Review: The Smell Of A $500+ Perfume

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

For better and for worse, Clive Christian has become synonymous with the phrase “the most expensive perfume in the world” (see the pic below). Following its recent arrival in South Africa, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the British luxury brand. With all the hype surrounding this company, I was almost determined not to like this release from 2018. Just to be contrary. Sometimes I can be like that.

Pic: clivechristian.com.

However, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is an exquisite fragrance from top to bottom. Slightly bitter petitgrain and bergamot announce themselves in the opening. They are wrapped in a finely fresh take on cypress and a perfectly balanced spicy trio of clove, nutmeg and ginger. Amber, so over-used in recent male fragrances, is elevated to the most sophisticated resinous powderiness, with support from cedar and oakwood.

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

It’s a long time since I’ve come across such a seamless scent. I can believe the blurb on the website about it being a 25% pure perfume concentration that’s made from the finest ingredients.

Apparently, the brand is flying off the shelves at its South African retailer. Even though prices range from R2 800 for refill vials to R14 800 for Clive Christian Jump Up And Kiss Me Hedonistic. (At the time of writing this post, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress costs R9 900 / £395 / $550 for 50ml.)

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

DISTURBIA

And this is where this post ventures into troubled territory. In a country with one of the highest levels of inequality in the world, an unemployment rate of 30%+, and an increasingly bleak national mood exacerbated by Covid-19, I’m disturbed that such amounts can be spent so freely on a fragrance. I type these words, and I feel judgemental and naïve and hypocritical at the same time. After all, haven’t I spent small fortunes on whatever gives me pleasure? So I will leave things there. For now. 

Clive Christian fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles Review

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.

“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”

However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).

IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.

So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?

It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.

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Montblanc Signature Review

Montblanc Signature

I don’t normally make predictions. But having worn Montblanc Signature for the last month or so, the German luxury goods company has a big hit on its hands with this new EDP.

I won’t waste much time on the inspiration for Montblanc Signature – “the woman who is the author of her own life”. It doesn’t really tell us anything about the fragrance.

Montblanc Signature

It was created by a duo of top perfumers. Guillaume Flavigny is known for creations such as Elizabeth Arden White Tea, Balmain Ambre Gris and Comme des Garcons Black. Nathalie Gracia-Cetto has produced Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky, Rochas Moustache and Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, among others. Both know how to create commercially successful scents, and it shows in Montblanc Signature.

Montblanc Signature

SO WHAT DOES MONTBLANC SIGNATURE SMELL LIKE?

It opens with the sweet and juicy citrus hues of clementine, followed by a bouquet of peony, ylang-ylang and magnolia notes. The latter’s prominence builds on the intro’s fresh and luxurious vibe. It doesn’t take long for the fragrance’s main element – white musk – to come through. Luxurious yet clean, it works in tandem with a big dose of vanilla and benzoin.

Montblanc Signature is a fairly straightforward composition – one in which you can actually smell the seven listed notes. It’s effective all the same. The brand is known for its crowd-pleasers and this new pillar will undoubtedly become a favourite. Slightly reminiscent of another brand’s musk perfumes, but with its own spin on the theme, hallelujah, it doesn’t shout generic from the get-go.

It was conceptualised and executed before our current Covid-19 world, but interestingly captures what perfumer Frank Voelkl said in a recent interview on this blog about the biggest fragrance trends this decade: “Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean.”

Montblanc Signature EDP, R880 for 30ml, R1 055 for 50ml and R1 315 for 90ml, is available at Dis-Chem.

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Frank Voelkl Interview: In Praise Of Synthetics

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

I recently had the opportunity to interview natural perfumer Douglas Little about his work. There was also a lively discussion on Undina’s Looking Glass about natural, synthetic and “mixed media” perfumes. All of which prompted me to get going on an interview with Frank Voelkl, which I’d been wanting to do for a long time.

Something told me he would be helpful in providing valuable insights on the role of synthetics in modern perfumery. The New York-based senior perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavour company Firmenich took time out of his busy schedule to answer the questions I emailed him.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

Before we get to those enlightening answers, a quick overview of the work of Frank Voelkl. He has earned major respect for creations and co-creations such as:

  • Alfred Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
  • Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
  • Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
  • Zirh Ikon EDT (2008)
  • Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
  • Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP (2012)
  • Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
  • Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
Frank Voelkl

Image: Fragrantica.

Of course, Frank Voelkl is most famous for his work for Le Labo. He has produced the decade-defining Santal 33 (2011), Iris 39 (2006), Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29 (2015), among others, for the NYC-based niche fragrance company.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Le Labo.

Where did you study perfumery and what was the most important thing you learned there?

I did a bachelor in Chemistry in Germany and then got a degree at ISIPCA in Versailles. I always remember what the legendary Edmond Roudnitska [creator of classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Hermès Eau d’Hermès and Rochas Femme] told me during his class: “Never lose track of where you want to go with your creation and always keep the goal, what you want to achieve in mind.” It’s easy to get “distracted” when you create.

Frank Voelkl

NICHE PARTNERSHIP: Frank Voelkl has created several fragrances for Le Labo.

Would modern perfumery exist without the use of synthetics / molecules?

Absolutely not. The introduction of molecules in perfumery in the late 1800s launched modern perfumery. Just think about Chanel No 5 (1921), which wouldn’t exist without its aldehydes. Dior Eau Sauvage by E. Roudnitska (1966) wouldn’t exist without Hedione. The use of molecules really allowed us to discover new paths in modern perfumery.

Image: Fragrantica.

What role do synthetics play when you’re creating a fragrance?

Molecules have always co-existed in my creations together with natural ingredients. They are equally important and both add beauty to a fragrance.

“If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line.” – Frank Voelkl 

If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line. The use of a natural, which typically is a more complex and faceted ingredient, is similar to the use of a large brush stroke. Which means that molecules often have a more linear character and are more singular in smell. I use them exactly for that reason – to introduce a very particular note into my creation. Molecules also allow us to introduce notes that do not exist in nature and to explore uncharted olfactive territories. They are essential for innovation.

For example, when creating Gucci Bamboo, I used a particular molecule which added a very delicate green note recognisable throughout the fragrance, which I could not have achieved in the same way with a natural ingredient.

Image: Fragrantica.

You’ve created a number of fragrances for NYC-based niche house, Nomenclature, including Adr_rett, Holy_wood and Psy_Cou. What was the attraction of working with the founders, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero?

Karl and Carlos had approached me a while back, inviting me to work on their new brand Nomenclature. Given my enthusiasm for molecules and the fact that Firmenich has a large number of captive molecules, it made a lot of sense to me.

Karl and I actually met a few years earlier working on a project together, and we immediately seemed to understand each other well. Of course, the fact that Karl and I both have our roots in Germany is an added bonus. It has been a great pleasure working with Karl and Carlos since the beginning, and am happy to collaborate with them on their beautiful brand.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature, which showcases exclusive molecules in perfumery. Image: Nomenclature.

Referring to Nomenclature Psy_Cou, which showcases coumarin. tell us about the beauty of this molecule and its influence on modern perfumery.

I still remember smelling coumarin for the first time in my life when it was presented to me as one of the first raw materials from the ingredient training at ISIPCA. It’s creamy, almondy and, to me, immediately triggered a sensation of comfort.

Frank Voelkl

First used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant, it has since had an important role to play in men’s fougère structures, but has also made its way into many women’s fragrances. It is present in nature as well, in many aromatic essential oils or in hay extract, for example.

Image: WorthPoint.

Which recently created molecule are you particularly excited about and how have you used it?

We have a few recent captive molecules at Firmenich that are very exciting olfactively, a new floral aldehydic one, in particular, that I use for an aquatic transparent, yet powerful women’s fragrance. Sorry, but I can’t tell you more about it than that.

In recent years, there’s been increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients in beauty products, including fragrances. Is this a good thing for perfumery? And ultimately for the environment?

I’m glad you ask this question because I think that there is a really important message that consumers need to know. As much as anything natural is perceived to be good for you and anything synthetic as inferior, the use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.

“The use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.”

If all fragrances were made only of naturals, our world supply would be exhausted quite rapidly. In addition, any ingredient used in fragrances, naturals or molecules, is tested before use and has to pass the same standards.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Ermenegildo Zegna.

What will be the major trendS in perfumery this decade?

Starting a decade with a major pandemic has certainly had a great impact on perfumery trends. Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean. They’re increasingly looking for fragrances that make them feel good and like to know the source of the ingredients used in fragrances. Sustainability and social impact are also important factors influencing consumers in their choices. Olfactive trends will align with these criteria.

Le Labo and Nomenclature fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Douglas Little Interview: “I’m Not Worried This Candle Will Over-Shadow My Other Achievements”

Douglas Little

Douglas Little achieved a level of infamy Oscar Wilde would have approved of in January 2020. The “This Smells Like My Vagina” candle he created for Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle portal, Goop, got mega media coverage ranging from indignant outrage to ecstatic approval – and sold out along the way (it’s now back in stock here). Such notoriety shouldn’t come as a surprise for a perfumer who named his natural fragrances company Heretic, which he launched in 2016.

Douglas Little

Of course, there’s more to Douglas Little than being known as “Gwyneth Paltrow’s perfumer”. After studying at Syndicat National des Fabricants de Produits Aromatiques in Grasse, he founded D. L. & Co.: Modern Alchemists and Purveyors of Curious Goods. It focused on perfumed candles, jewellery and lifestyle products. He later went on to create installations for luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Barney’s New York and Bergdorf Goodman. The Californian has also worked with celebrities such as Dita Von Teese, Lady Gaga and Bette Midler.

Douglas Little

When I was contacted by Douglas Little’s PR to interview him, his latest collaboration with Gwyneth Paltrow, the “This Smells Like My Orgasm” candle, hadn’t been launched yet. So this interview predates the controversy this new product will undoubtedly create.

I’d like to state that while I haven’t smelled any of the products featured in this blog-post, I get the strong impression that Douglas Little is a highly creative perfumer with a knack for harnessing the power of sensuality, provocative marketing and humour.

Douglas Little

So let’s get that question out of the way first. How did the “Smells Like My Vagina” candle get its name?

When I develop fragrances with Gwyneth Paltrow we start with several different essential oils. I also love to show her things that are more radical and experimental.

I was sharing an ingredient with her and she said, “This smells like my vagina”, and of course we laughed hysterically and it became a joke. Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.

“Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.”

When I first brought the candle to Gwyneth it was intended as a limited release for Goop Summit and it sold out within about 45 minutes. That’s how the vagina candle story got started, in this very humble and innocent way. We certainly didn’t know what the response would be and it’s been exciting to see how people have fallen in love with it.

Douglas Little

STAR POWER: Douglas Little with Gwyneth Paltrow.

Are you worried this candle will overshadow your other achievements?

Not in the least. “This Smells Like My Vagina” is an interesting product, because it’s one that provokes curiosity. Any stigma that was wrapped around anything relating to the vagina is being felt and this candle encourages healthy conversations and humour.

When did you start working with Goop and are there future projects in the works?

I started working with Goop in 2017. I was hired by Gwyneth to be the nose for her four fragrance editions, Number 1, 2, 3 and 4. We have two really exciting releases coming out this year.

Douglas Little

How has the coronavirus affected your work?

It’s been devastating for everyone. It was hard because we had to restructure our team, but we are trying to look at the glass half full. The coronavirus has forced us to look at the important aspects of the business and what makes us unique. We are a fragrance company that creates fragrance made from naturally derived materials.

We’re radically transparent about what we do and are excited to share the healing and functional elements of how fragrance can enhance people’s lives. That’s been a really important conversation during this time.

Douglas Little

How do you think the coronavirus is affecting our attitude towards fragrance?

People are paying much more attention to the effects of fragrance and the way it can influence your state of mind. Many of us have gone through various stages of isolation/depression, from being sad to angry to frustrated. These emotions can be altered with fragrance.

Being at home and self-isolated, you miss going out and having a walk on the beach, in the park or in the forest. A candle or a perfume can help shift your point of view for a minute.

“People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you.”

People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you. It can help you to relax or to go to sleep, it can transform the room that you’re stuck in all day by lighting a candle or putting on perfume. It’s a very small action that can have a big effect.

Douglas Little

You’re known for your love of natural fragrances. Many of my favourite fragrances are defined by their use of synthetics. How would you sell natural fragrances to me? And what do you mean by “natural?”

Natural fragrance is made from 100% naturally derived materials. “Naturally derived” is a term that’s specified by an agency called the ISO, meaning that the product is from a natural source. All of the materials we work with are naturally derived. In other words, they actually have to start out as a natural product.

The difference between natural and synthetic fragrances is that synthetic fragrances last longer. They can have a lot more of what I would call softer nuances to them. But they can also be overwhelming. Synthetics are engineered in a laboratory to be very fragrant, whereas with naturally derived materials, the fragrance is a by-product of the natural material itself. As a result, the fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them. It’s easier for people to identify the fragrance notes in naturally derived fragrances than in synthetic fragrances.

“Naturally derived fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them.”

 

Douglas Little

The other important reason for naturally derived fragrance is that they are free from the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances. About 90% of the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances are petrol derived.

I wanted to create a product that was dramatically different from anything else that was currently on the market. The main reason people don’t use naturally derived materials on a more regular basis is because of their cost and they don’t necessarily appeal to everyone, whereas synthetic fragrances appeal to a broad audience. They are inexpensive, but can also be toxic.

How do you approach the creation of fragrance? Is it a technical or artistic process for you?

It’s both. I start with a concept. I build off of an idea and then start to figure out how to work with naturally derived materials to create that idea. It’s a two-part process and part of the reason I love fragrance so much is because it is equal parts art and science.

Do you have a philosophy as such? Is your company’s name “Heretic” a reflection of that?

Yes. The reason I chose the name Heretic is because when I first started this company, I wanted to do a line of fragrance derived from 100% natural materials. I was told that I was insane, that it was impossible and would never sell. I was also told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives and heretics from a very astute perfume company. It was my mission to prove them wrong.

“I was told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives. It was my mission to prove them wrong.”

Douglas Little

What will be the key trends in fragrance this decade?

Going back to the basics. As a consumer and watching the habits of consumers, we are all inundated with information. We are moving at such a rapid rate and we’re expected to perform at such a high velocity. There is a need for more simplicity.

Douglas Little

For more info on Douglas Little, visit douglaslittle.com and Heretic Parfum. All pics of Douglas Little and associated products supplied. 

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10 Best Rose Fragrances: Fragroom’s Queen Of Florals Mix

Best Rose Fragrances

Not for nothing is the rose known as the queen of flowers and, I can add, a mainstay of perfumery. This year alone, big releases include Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose EDP, Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP and Dior Miss Dior Rose N’Roses EDT. I haven’t tried any of these yet due to the current coronavirus situation, hence their possible exclusion from this best roses fragrances list.

Best Rose Fragrances

Rose fragrances are always popular and part of their appeal is due to the multitude of ways in which they can be interpreted. From fresh and dewy to rich and decadent, there’s one for you. I’ve included a mix of styles, modern classics and newbies in this best roses round-up to give you a sense of the variety on offer.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

I would love to hear about your best rose fragrances.

Best Rose Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE PORTRAIT OF A LADY EDP* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

No best rose fragrances list would be complete without the inclusion of this modern masterpiece that’s affectionately known by its fans as POAL. An extraordinary perfume demands a different type of review, so here are five facts:

  1. It’s named after the Henry James novel, which was published in 1891.
  2. Its creator, Dominique Ropion, who is highly regarded for scents such as Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Mugler Alien, received The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer Award in 2019.
  3. Released in 2010, it has become one of the most revered niche fragrances of the last decade.
  4. According to the brand’s website, each 100ml bottle contains no less than 400 Turkish roses.
  5. That said, this is a seamless fragrance that whispers its supreme beauty from the opening rose note. Tinges of raspberry and black currant bring delicate fruity piquancy to the blend, while cloves add spicy warmth. An ultra-refined patchouli note takes the lead in the drydown and is given just the right amount of sensual mystery with swirls of smoky frankincense and creamy sandalwood.

While you are in Frédéric Malle mode, make sure to sniff out the other superb rose EDPs from the Paris-based niche house, including Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier and Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Best Rose Fragrances

UNUM ROSA NIGRA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FILIPPO SORCINELLI)

Filippo Sorcinelli has to be one of the most interesting perfumers working today. The Italian is the consummate slashie. Artist. Musician. Photographer. Storyteller. Designer. Creator of vestments for the Catholic Church, including for Pope Francis’s first mass. All of these talents are reflected in his conceptual perfumes. His range, Unum, was launched in 2014.

Rosa Nigra is an utterly captivating, enveloping and complex rose fragrance. Actually, it’s more of an experience, which is inspired by French cathedrals and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Except it doesn’t contain a rose note. He creates the effect through an olfactory illusion. Sorcinelli achieves this by playing with a variety of notes, especially freesia and peach, and fleshes it out with absinthe, sandalwood, cashmere wood, amber, vanilla and musk.

Every detail, from the choice of notes to the design of the bottle, has symbolic significance. And you don’t have to be a Catholic, religious or spiritual to “get” it.

Best Rose Fragrances

CHLOE EDP* (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE & MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

Launched in 2008, Chloé EDP proved to be a huge hit for the French fashion label. And for very good reason. It’s a beautifully fresh floral fragrance that showcases rose.

That freshness is evident right from the opening notes of freesia, peony and lychee. When the rose comes through, it’s dewy, perfectly pretty and supported by lily-of-the-valley and magnolia notes. Featuring notes of amber and cedar, the drydown is warm and woody.

Yes, it’s a popular fragrance. But don’t let that put you off sniffing out this modern classic that can give much pricier niche options a run for their money.

Best Rose Fragrances

DIPTYQUE EAU CAPITALE EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche fragrance brand pays tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity with this 2019 release.

The intro belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose from Turkey and Bulgaria. This is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background.

For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy characteristics of Indonesian heart of vetiver and Haitian vetiver.

Best Rose Fragrances

ACQUA DI PARMA ROSA NOBILE EDP*

Acqua di Parma’s Le Nobili Collection has a floral focus and includes peony and magnolia versions. Rosa Nobile is an absolute beauty.

This EDP centres on Centifolia rose buds. According to the Italian niche brand, these are hand-picked from an organic plantation in Piedmont. They give the scent a fresh, leafy facet that’s perfectly complemented by notes of Sicilian mandarin, pepper, peony, cedarwood and musk. There’s also a hint of ambergris in the drydown, which could be why this perfume is usually on the pricey side.

I’d love to congratulate the creator of this 2014 release on a job well done, but Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t disclose its perfumers.

Best Rose Fragrances

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP*

There are many notable fragrances in the Swedish niche brand’s line-up, including Pulp, Super Cedar, Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique. But the lesser-known and charmingly named Rose of No Man’s Land, inspired by the nickname given by soldiers to the life-saving nurses during World War I, is highly recommended if you’re looking for a gentle intro to rose fragrances.

This 2015 release opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by subtle pink peppercorn. The centrepiece is softly-enveloping Turkish rose absolute, nicely finished off with notes of amber and papyrus.

It’s a very warm, agreeable and accessible fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

Best Rose Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’EAU A LA ROSE EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Launched in 2014, Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP is a truly gorgeous rose fragrance. This 2019 release is a good alternative if you’re looking for a softer, but equally alluring take on the theme.

It opens with an airy lychee accord, without becoming a typically sweet fruity floral. Centifolia rose absolute and Damascena rose oil give this EDT its floral flair, while peony keeps it on the fresh side of things.

Settling on a base of musks, it’s luxurious and sensual in a quiet way. Perfect for spring and summer – and even before bedtime.

Best Rose Fragrances

DS & DURGA ROSE ATLANTIC EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Trust self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz of NYC-based niche fragrance house DS & Durga to do something completely different with a rose perfume.

You’ll know this is not the usual rose scent right from the opening of this 2016 release, featuring bitter-ish notes of bergamot and lemon oil, with rose petals slightly softening the effect. A fine rose accord comes through in the heart of the fragrance, with linden blossom in support. But this is a rose drenched in salt water. Lots of it. As if you’re aboard the ship Salt Spray Rose. What a clever boy!

A dose of white moss completes the mood.

Best Rose Fragrances

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex fragrance, the NYC-based niche fragrance house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded.

Best Rose Fragrances

LANCOME IDOLE EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, ADRIANA MEDINA-BAEZ & NADEGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

Lancôme’s first new perfume since the decade-defining La Vie est Belle has received much love and hate since its release in 2019. Negative reviews have declared it “boring” and “predictable”. I say try it for yourself. Well composed and a great example of a clean rose scent, it earns its place on this best rose fragrances list.

A delicately sweet note of pear opens the fragrance. Two essences (an absolute and rose water) have been used to make rose the star of the show. They give it a fresh, pure and green quality. Jasmine is in the background.

White musks feature in the drydown and maintain the sense of purity.

Best Rose Fragrances

*These best rose fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary: Interview With Company CEO Lance Patterson

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

I recently celebrated Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary by compiling a list of their 10 best fragrances. With hindsight, I probably should have done a top 20. There are so many standouts from this British heritage brand that was founded by barber William Penhaligon in 1870.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ENTREPRENEURIAL FOUNDER: The life of William Penhaligon is integral to the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations.

In this post I continue to mark Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary in an interview with Lance Patterson, the company’s CEO (pictured below). He talks to me about their new fragrance launch, the effects of the coronavirus, the importance of heritage and customer preferences.

Image: Penhaligon’s.

How is the company celebrating its 150th year in business?

We are highlighting this important milestone throughout the year by telling the stories that make up our rich history on our digital platforms, as well as when we get back into retail.

A key moment was the launch of The Favourite in early March, a stunning floral fragrance with notes of mimosa, violet leaf, bergamot and sandalwood. It was inspired by Sarah Churchill, the Duchess of Marlborough, a very influential woman of her time and best friend of Queen Anne. Sarah was the Keeper of the Privy Purse and the Mistress of the Robes, responsible for the royal wardrobe. She was also instrumental in building Blenheim Palace. It’s one of the most impressive palaces in England and a place of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage where one of our most iconic scents was born in 1902.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

Blenheim Bouquet was created in 1902 by Walter Penhaligon, William’s son, and was a private commission by the ninth Duke of Marlborough who resided at Blenheim Palace. So we are very proud to celebrate the brand’s history with a nod to this chapter and introduce another classic yet thoroughly modern fragrance.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ROYAL INSPIRATION: Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire, is of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage. Image: Penhaligon’s.

We are also gearing up for an iconic Christmas campaign that will celebrate the brand’s British heritage and its spirit of generosity.

How has the coronavirus pandemic affected the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations?

Although we had to cancel our big global event for the 150th anniversary, we adapted quickly to the new environment. We are now focusing on digital campaigns and bringing the brand alive in a number of interactive ways on social media, the website and via email marketing.

People are spending a lot of time online and we found new ways to connect with them via tools like Instagram Live or series of online Q&As, where we delve into the brand and celebrate our fragrances old and new.

Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary

Heritage and tradition are very much part of the brand. How is that balanced with more modern trends and tastes?

We love bringing a more contemporary experience to our customer through initiatives such as online Fragrance Profiling, which helps you find your perfect scent and sample it at home. At the heart of our Fragrance Profiling is a rich history of storytelling around our scents.  When we share these stories and give our consumers more knowledge and history behind the fragrances, we see a much stronger long-term connection being established.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

BRAND HISTORY: The front of the store on 33 St James Street, London, when the company was known as Penhaligon & Jeavons in the 1890s. Image: Penhaligon’s.

Our loyal consumers love sharing what they learn and become our finest ambassadors. They love the entertaining and quirky side of the brand that we embodied in olfactive fiction in the Portraits collection, which has become a great success story for the brand. The connection people make with the Portraits’ characters shows the strength in storytelling for fragrances.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

What would fans be surprised to know about Penhaligon’s?

Many don’t know that our founder, William Penhaligon, was from Cornwall originally and moved with his entire family to London to set up shop. He was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.

“William Penhaligon was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.”

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

What’s the best-selling product?

Best-sellers change depending on the season and region. But globally our market can’t get enough of The Tragedy of Lord George, Halfeti and The Coveted Duchess Rose. But there are others that have been our top sellers for more than 100 years such as Blenheim Bouquet.

However, we know that fragrance is a personal choice and want to offer our customers a lot of variety and options, hence having over 50 fragrances in our collection.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Which country is the company’s biggest market?

Our domestic market is very important for us, but the brand is loved in many other parts of the world, with Asia being a rapidly growing region in the past few years.

What do the company’s various markets tell us about their customers’ preferences?

Although there definitely are local nuances when it comes to fragrance preferences, we also notice that customers globally are looking for a very individualistic expression of their personality. They increasingly want more unique scents, especially the younger clientele.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE: The Penhaligon’s store on Wellington Street, Covent Garden, in London. Image: Penhaligon’s.

For example, young Arabic customers are choosing less oud-based scents and exploring florals and gourmands. In Asia fresher, lighter scents are favoured, but again a younger demographic often go for more opulent scents like Lord George and Halfeti.

Penhaligon’s justifiably is seen as a niche fragrance success story. But what’s been the company’s costliest mistake? And how was that rectified?

Like all brands, Penhaligon’s has faced challenges when entering different markets in a rapidly changing retail landscape. One of our most important lessons was with our expansion into the US. We took risks in opening too quickly and have had to reassess how best to move forward.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Can you share some interesting Penhaligon’s stats with my readers?

Hammam Bouquet is turning 148 this year. This icon of the brand, created by William Penhaligon himself, makes Chanel No 5, at 99 years old, look like a youngster.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.