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Ambroxan: 15 Best Fragrances Featuring The Popular Synthetic

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Ormonde Jayne Ambre Royal EDP

Synthetics are the backbone of modern perfumery and Ambroxan is probably the most well-known of these ingredients. That’s partly due to its prominence in hugely popular fragrances such as Dior Sauvage and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 in recent years.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum

The history of Ambroxan is a fascinating one. There was a time when perfumers would use ambergris (the substance excreted by the sperm whale and which hardens into a waxy, solid substance after floating in the ocean) for its animalic sensuality. Due to its rarity and high cost, an alternative had to be found by chemists. Enter Ambroxan – obtained from sclareol, a natural component of clary sage – in the 1950s.

So what does Ambroxan smell like? Depending on how it’s used, it can range from the fresh, soapy, mineral, salty and woody to ambery, sweet, creamy, musky and animalic. Apart from its versatility, perfumers also use it as a fixative to boost the performance of their creations.

MULTI-FACETED: Ambroxan is one of the most well-known synthetics. IMAGE: Kao Chemicals.

Almost all fragrances which have “ambergris” as one of their listed notes (including niche varieties) actually refer to Ambroxan or any of the other chemical equivalents (for example, Ambrox Super, Ambroxide and Ambrofix).

If you want to smell Ambroxan in its unadulterated form, get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 EDT. Juliette Has A Gun Not A Perfume EDP is composed only of Cétalox, a close relative of Ambroxan.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 EDT

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance in this best Ambroxan fragrances selection.

Juliette Has A Gun Not A Perfume EDP

HERMÈS EAU DES MERVEILLES EDT (RALF SCHWIEGER & NATHALIE FEISTHAUER)

So you think Ambroxan is over-used and best avoided? This 2004 release from the French luxury brand will convince you otherwise.

Softly sweet orange makes a fresh statement in the intro. It’s given a peppery-balsamic spin with elemi (the resin from the Canarium luzonicum tree). Effervescent and warm, the amber element (aka Ambroxan) in this truly marvellous creation (FYI: “merveilles” is the French word for marvels) is complemented by the vanilla tones of benzoin in the drydown.

For some reason, this is officially a female fragrance, yet part of what makes it unusual is the absence of any typically feminine floral notes. Trust me, it’s 100% unisex and a modern classic to boot.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Hermes Eau des Merveilles EDT

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE OUTRAGEOUS EDP* (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

Sophia Grojsman is the legendary perfumer behind creations such as Estée Lauder White Linen EDP, Lancôme Trésor EDP and Yves Saint Laurent Paris EDP.

As you can tell from its flamboyant name, this 2007 release from the Paris-based niche brand sees her in delightfully playful mode.

It opens with fresh notes of bergamot, tangerine and green apple. Although not officially listed, we reckon there’s also slightly soapy aldehydes in the mix. The spice of cinnamon adds warm powderiness, without getting overly sweet. It’s in the drydown that this scent reveals it true magic, thanks to a combo of musk and Ambroxan. The effect is sparkling, sensual yet clean, and thoroughly addictive.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Frederic Malle Outrageous EDP

LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP* (NATHALIE LORSON)

You know you’re trendy when you’re commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the highly regarded fashion and culture AnOther Magazine to create an exclusive scent for them.

Synthetics are amped to the max in this 2010 release, which is actually a very good thing. The soft woodiness of ISO E Super and muskiness of Ambroxan are clearly evident, while the fruitiness of pear and jasmine are also present in the mix. The naturally derived musk, ambrette seed absolute, adds a silky dimension.

Not just another fragrance, for sure.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Le Labo Another 13 EDP

IMAGE: Le Labo.

CREED AVENTUS EDP* (JEAN–CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)

What more is there to say about this 2010 release that hasn’t already been said a million times? Well, quite a lot, actually.

Firstly, I’m glad its creator is at last getting the credit he deserves for his part in its phenomenal success. Secondly, while it’s rightly held up as the exemplar of pineapple perfection, it wouldn’t be Aventus without Ambroxan.

I contacted perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault and this is what he had to say: “Ambroxan is really key to Aventus. When Olivier Creed asked me to create a masculine perfume, he asked me to use Helvetolide, a musk he loves. I accepted, of course, and added: “I love Ambroxan myself, so I will begin the creation with a 50/50 mix Helvetolide and Ambroxan. More than that little story, Ambroxan gives Aventus part of its signature, long- lastingness and diffusion.”

But wait there’s more: “I still love Ambroxan, it’s one of my favourite ingredients. A few years ago, the marketing people in International Flavors & Fragrances [the company he works for] called me ‘l’homme-broxan’.” You don’t get any more authoritative than that.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Creed Aventus EDP

ORMONDE JAYNE AMBRE ROYAL EDP** (GEZA SCHOEN)

The London-based niche brand founded by Linda Pilkington is synonymous with quality and craftsmanship. I’m yet to try an Ormonde Jayne fragrance I don’t love. Many of their releases were created by Geza Schoen (the perfumer behind cult niche brand Escentric Molecules).

This 2016 EDP enchants from the start with the freshness of bergamot and orange blossom at the fore. There’s more floral intensity from notes of rose and jasmine, with the powderiness of orris butter in support.

If anyone knows their way around Ambroxan, it’s Geza Schoen (after all, he released Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 EDT, featuring the synthetic in its unadulterated form). Here, he uses it to enhance the rich depth of the drydown featuring patchouli, an amber accord and cedar.

I have one word to describe it: wow!

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Ormonde Jayne Ambre Royal EDP

VILHELM PARFUMERIE DO NOT DISTURB EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Okay, so I don’t quite get the connection between the inspiration – “deep in the basement of Studio 54, a place with no boundaries and a Do Not Disturb sign on the door” – and the execution of this 2016 release from the NYC-based niche brand. But I most certainly love every drop of it. And that’s what counts, right?

It gets going with an intriguing combo of fresh and spicy schinus molle (that’s pink peppercorn to you and me and, by the way, not related to black pepper) and the powdery earthiness of carrot and iris. Jasmine brings floral freshness to the blend. Patchouli meets Ambroxan and white musks in the drydown for a sensual finish.

For another hit of Ambroxan à la Vilhelm Parfumerie, I also recommend the 2020 release Body Paint EDP.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Vilhelm Parfumerie Do Not Disturb EDP

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN BACCARAT ROUGE 540 EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

In the unlikely event that Francis Kurkdjian had to submit a CV for the position of Dior in-house perfumer, you can bet Baccarat Rouge 540 featured prominently under list of achievements. Apparently, this 2015 release is now the world’s most complimented / sought-after / copied scent.

Of course, as so often happens in fragrance-land, the more popular a perfume becomes, the more it’s hated online (let’s call it the Law of What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down), and that’s partly why I’ve gone with the even more exclusive extrait de parfum version from 2017.

Whichever one you choose, kudos where it’s due to this blend of saffron, hedione, ethyl maltol and Ambroxan that was created for the 250th anniversary of the crystal company Baccarat.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum

PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families. The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan.

In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

The 2020 release, The Inimitable William Penhaligon EDP (inspired by the intrepid company founder), features Ambroxan in a lesser role.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Penhaligon's Terrible Teddy EDP

MATIERE PREMIERE PARISIAN MUSC EDP* (AURÉLIEN GUICHARD)

Is this 2019 release from the French niche brand a musk fragrance or a fig fragrance? Either way, I love it.

It opens with the distinctive greenery of a fig leaf note (prominent throughout) and then layers of musk. The main ingredient is ambrette seed from Peru, the naturally derived musk distilled from the seeds of a variety of hibiscus, known for its woody-muskiness. It’s given more woodiness with Virginian cedar. Judicious use of the synthetics Ambrettolide and Ambroxan enhances the musky profile of the scent and its tenacity.

The result: a chic Parisian affair.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Matiere Premiere Parisian Musc EDP

ATELIER DES ORS BLANC POLYCHROME EDP** (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Let’s get the bottle-ogling out of the way first. With the gold flakes and curvy design, French niche brand Atelier des Ors has some of the snazziest bottles in the biz. This 2020 release is a modern take on the classic cologne style but at 20% concentration, it’s more powerful than most.

The intro features bright citric notes of lemon and mandarin, while rhubarb adds an element of vegetal greenery. There’s more fresh greenery from notes of petitgrain, jasmine, lavender and fig leaf.

Settling with earthy moss, clean musk and wafts of warm Ambroxan, it’s beautifully refreshing and chic stuff.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Atelier des Ors Blanc Polychrome EDP

LOUIS VUITTON IMAGINATION EDP (JACQUES CAVALLIER BELLETRUD)

The French luxury brand made a grand return to the fragrance biz in 2016 after an absence of several decades. It has made up for last time with several standouts, including this 2021 release.

The opening hums with the spicy freshness of Calabrian bergamot and Nigerian ginger. Tunisian neroli gives it citric greenery, while Ceylon cinnamon adds contrasting spicy warmth.

Jacques Cavallier Belletrud uses an overdose of Ambrox and the aromatics of Chinese black tea to create something modern yet timeless. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the creator of classics such as Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme EDT, Cartier Pasha de Cartier EDT and Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Louis Vuitton Imagination EDP

IMAGE: Louis Vuitton.

KILIAN APPLE BRANDY ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCEUSSEUR)

If anyone knows his booze (and I mean that in a good way), it’s the heir to the Hennessy fortune. Originally released in 2013 and now part of the Paris-based niche brand’s Liquors Collection, Kilian Apple Brandy On The Rocks lays on the luxe vibe (with, ahem, price to match).

The EDP’s fresh and spicy opening (bergamot, cardamom) gives way to an apple brandy accord, with lots of fruity-liciousness and vanilla woodiness.

An earthy oakmoss note keeps this 2021 release on the right side of sweetness, while Ambroxan gives the cool and chic composition musky sensuality.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Kilian Apple Brandy On The Rocks EDP

JULIETTE HAS A GUN PEAR INC. EDP* (ROMANO RICCI)

Like Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun caused a bit of a sensation when it released a fragrance, Not A Perfume, featuring just Cétalox, a close relative of Ambroxan. That 2010 release and its 2019 follow-up, Not A Perfume Superdose, are well worth checking out. But it’s the 2021 release, Pear Inc., I recommend for its summery vibe.

True to its name, it delivers a juicy and fresh pear opening with just the right amount of sweetness. A large dose of Ambroxan gives it fizz, while musk keeps it clean.

Romano Ricci sure loves Ambroxan, as you’ll also find it in other worthwhile creations of his, including Lili Fantasy EDP, Anyway EDP and Another Oud EDP.

Best Ambroxan Fragrances - Juliette Has A Gun Pear INC. EDP

*Available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. **Available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

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Sophie Labbé Interview: “Creating Fragrances Involves A Combination Of Intuition And Rationalisation”

Sophie Labbé

The first big commercial hit of Sophie Labbé – the classic Givenchy Organza EDP (1996) – was no fluke. The Paris-based perfumer had already shown she was destined for great things when she graduated top of her class at perfume school in 1987.

Sophie Labbé - Givenchy Organza EDP

In her career spanning more than three decades, she has worked for big fragrance companies such as Givaudan, IFF and, most recently, Firmenich, where she holds the position of principal perfumer (she joined the Swiss firm in 2019).

Sophie Labbé

Along the way, Sophie Labbé has collaborated with luminaries such as Carlos Benaïm and Sophia Grojsman. Her ingenuity has ensured she’s made her own mark with a variety of outstanding creations, including:

  • Hugo Boss Boss Woman EDP (2000)
  • Cacharel Promesse EDT (2005)
  • Estée Lauder Pure White Linen EDP (2006)
  • Guerlain Cologne du 68 EDC (2006)
  • Bvlgari Jasmin Noir EDP (2008)
  • Kylie Minogue Sexy Darling EDT (2008)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne EDP (2009)
  • Lancôme Ô d’Azur EDT (2010)
  • Calvin Klein Beauty EDP (2010)
  • Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina EDP (2011)
  • Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP (2017)
  • Floraïku The Moon and I EDP (2017)
  • Memo Tamarindo EDP (2018)
  • Tiffany & Co Tiffany & Love For Him EDT (2019)
  • Jo Malone Cypress & Grapevine Cologne Intense (2020)
Sophie Labbé - Estée Lauder Pure White Linen EDP

IMAGE: Estée Lauder.

In 2021 she was part of the judging panel for the prestigious 14th François Coty Award, a recognition of her authority in the industry. She was the first woman to win the prize in 2005.

Sophie Labbé - Tiffany & Co Tiffany & Love For Him EDT

IMAGE: Tiffany & Co.

In this interview, Sophie Labbé chats about her perfume style, inspiration and AI.

Who or what influenced you the most to become a perfumer?

Back then, I was naïve, and didn’t even know this profession existed. Although growing up, I’d always been aware of the scent of nature because my father produced wine in the west of France. After I moved from Charente-Maritime in the southwest of France to Paris, I started really having a wider scope of scents.

Sophie Labbé - Bvlgari Splendida Tubereuse Mystique EDP

The smells were augmented with the different odours of the countryside and the city. For example, I associated Paris with the smells of the boulangerie or the Métro – and I was exposed to different kinds of perfume while in the Métro. Then for the countryside with the smell of nature, depending on the season.

One day I read an article on ISIPCA, a school for fragrance, and I immediately thought this profession was for me but, as I didn’t know anything about it, my wish was to meet a perfumer.

“I spent the whole afternoon with Jean Kerléo and realised the complexity of this profession.” – Sophie Labbé 

That was granted in 1985 when I met Jean Kerléo, the in-house perfumer of Jean Patou (pictured, below). I spent the whole afternoon with him and realised the complexity of this profession. I started to understand the process and this is what I wanted to do.

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

What was your debut fragrance and how has your style evolved since then?

My first fragrance was G Gigli EDT for the Italian brand Romeo Gigli in 1994. It had the scent of berries, red fruit and was very green and musky. I remember the bottle was shaped like the genie’s lamp in Aladdin.

Sophie Labbé - Romeo Gigli G Gigli EDT

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

My style has evolved. This is a profession where you learn every day. The more you do this job, the better knowledge you have on the affinity of ingredients, so you have a clearer grasp of what’s available to you. I’ve shortened my formulas. I enjoy when the perfume is unique and the structure of the formula is distinct.

Sophie Labbé - Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina EDP

IMAGE: Salvatore Ferragamo.

You’ve created several classics (for example, Givenchy Organza, Bvlgari Jasmin Noir). What made these fragrances such successes?

This is a difficult question. Everyone wants to know the recipe for success but there is none.

What they do have in common is memorability, a powerful signature and the emotion they bring to people.

Sophie Labbé - Bvlgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP

How do you prefer to work?

I like working in my office – something I really understood during the period of Covid confinement. It’s important to have my atmosphere when I work. I want to be surrounded by my trials, my bottles of raw ingredients. Also, my blotters to check the evolution of the perfume.

Although you work alone in this job, you need to exchange and connect with other people to be inspired and to grow. I also love meeting the customers and to get words of inspiration from them.

Sophie Labbé - Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne EDP

IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.

Does inspiration come easily to you?

Inspiration is everywhere. It can come from travelling or it can be when I read a book and there is a description that makes me want to play with a specific flower or ambience.

It can also come from ingredients – naturals or synthetic molecules – that belong in our palette. This is something I enjoyed so much when I joined Firmenich – it was like a Christmas gift!

Sophie Labbé - Givenchy Organza EDP

I love Clearwood. Created using white biotechnology, it’s an interesting innovation. The first white biotech ingredient in perfumery, it offers the odour of patchouli but with lightness on the side. I used it for Versace Dylan Turquoise.

Anything else unusual about the creation of this Versace?

There was a glamorous atmosphere surrounding the project because it was with Versace and because of Donatella Versace’s guidance.

For the launch, we filmed a movie in their atelier in Milan, so I had the opportunity to be in the same place where Gianni Versace lived and where all the beautiful couture was kept. That was something unusual and special.

Sophie Labbé - Versace Dylan Turquoise EDT

For better and for worse, perfumery is still shrouded in mystery. What would people be most surprised to know about the process of creation?

People think we dream up fragrances when, in fact, it’s a combination of intuition and rationalisation.

Creating a fragrance involves a lot of modifications, countless processes of trial and error, after which we only select the best results for our customers.

Sophie Labbé - Bvlgari Splendida Jasmin Noir EDP

What’s been the most important development in the industry since you first qualified to become a perfumer?

There have been many developments in the industry since I first started more than 30 years ago, but the one that is the most recent for me and that I was involved with was the project I did for Bvlgari Serpenti Metamorphosis in 2021.

“With the help of AI, I took a number of sensations and  transformed them into a fragrance, associating the olfactive notes with Refik’s art.” – Sophie Labbé 

Sophie Labbé

ART OF FRAGRANCE: Sophie Labbé collaborated with Refik Anadol for the Bvlgari Serpenti Metamorphosis project in 2021.

I had an innovative collaboration with the brand and the media artist/director Refik Anadol. With the help of AI, I took an overwhelming number of sensations and inputs that the rainforest offers and transformed them into a fragrance that was sprayed all over the gallery, associating the olfactive notes with Refik’s art.

That was a first! I also got inspiration from observing the images selected by Refik for the exhibition.

Sophie Labbé - Bvlgari Serpenti Metamorphosis

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

What project have you just completed that you can tell us about?

It’s a secret! Things are cooking in the kitchen, so to speak. We cannot say anything yet.

What perfume do you wear the most when you’re not working?

Bvlgari Splendida Patchouli Tentation is the fragrance I’m wearing at the moment. This is actually the first fragrance I created that I wear often.

Sophie Labbé - Bvlgari Splendida Patchouli Tentation EDP

Apart from perfumes, what are your other great loves?

I love to travel, gardening and reading. I read a lot more now than before. My favourite author is still Aki Shimazaki, but I also just started reading the Cazalet series of books by Elizabeth Jane Howard.

Set in 20th-century England, just before World War II, it’s about a family in the business of exotic wood – maybe that’s why I like it so much.

IMAGE: Pan Macmillan.

 

 

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Textures Of Cape Town (Beyond The Sun, Sea & Sand)

Cape Town

From its beaches and Table Mountain to its laid-back lifestyle, Cape Town is celebrated for its beauty. But beauty is often to be found in the less obvious and more intriguing textures and details. I’ve deliberately not captioned most of these pics from a recent, all-too-brief trip to the city. Sometimes copy unnecessarily directs our thoughts.

Cape Town

Close-up of a work by AD-Reflex at the Hindsights and Foresights exhibition at the Deepest Darkest Contemporary Gallery, De Waterkant, Cape Town.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Okay, so I had to include one pic of H20. I ain’t no water baby, but I always find looking at it soothing and relaxing.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

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Best Statement Fragrances

Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

Statement Fragrances

ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Statement Fragrances

NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

Statement Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

Statement Fragrances

KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

Statement Fragrances

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

Statement Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

Statement Fragrances

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

Statement Fragrances

* Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

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Maison Christian Dior – Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Perfume-lovers were in for the deluxe treatment when the first Maison Christian Dior on the African continent opened its doors in Johannesburg in 2018. We all know Dior for its haute couture, “new look” style and its associations with all things Parisian. So expectations were high of the luxury fragrances on offer. I’m not one for shopping malls, but I’ve popped into the boutique a few times to lap up the chic ambience. These are my impressions.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

CHIC EXPERIENCE: The exterior of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg. In the rear of the store, a video wall features footage of Dior’s famous home, Château de La Colle Noire, in the south of France. Image: Dior.

The look and feel of the store 

Sophisticated and modern, with reminders of Dior’s grand heritage. Don’t mistake the quietness of Maison Christian Dior, compared to many of the other shops in the centre, for a lack of business. It’s all about the quality of the shopper here, not the quantity.  Special touch: A video wall that features Dior’s property in the south of France, Château de La Colle Noire.

Taking its cue from the increasing demand for exclusive, high-quality fragrances, La Collection Privée Christian Dior was launched in 2004. Three fragrances – Bois d’Argent EDP, Eau Noire EDP and Cologne Blanche EDP – were available at that stage. The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals. Each fragrance comes in a sleek cylindrical bottle with a black magnetic cap, originally designed by then Christian Dior homme creative director, Hedi Slimane. 

“The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals.”

It has also expanded to include candles, bath and body products, and accessories. Most of the fragrances have been created by highly respected perfumer François Demachy.

The latest launch 

The fruity floral Holy Peony EDP was launched earlier in 2019. It’s a soft, pretty and slightly sweet take on peony, with a big helping of apricot rose. The composition also features notes of red fruits, wood and musk.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The best seller

South Africans like their fragrances potent and long-lasting. So it’s no surprise that the unisex Oud Ispahan, which was launched in 2014, does so well in Maison Christian Dior. With notes of smoky woods, rose, frankincense and resin, it’s a smooth and sophisticated oud.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

FRAGROOM favourite

Cuir Cannage EDP which, I am told, has been discontinued. Before it disappears from the shelves completely, make sure to grab a bottle of this beauty. Officially, it’s inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”, according to the brand’s website. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex. There’s no doubting this is a superb leather fragrance, but what really makes it so special is how well Demachy balanced it with the floral and woody aspects.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The service

The exterior of Maison Christian Dior might say intimidatingly exclusive, but the service is friendly and welcoming. Of course, I got good service, as the staff knew I was a blogger. However, I’ve watched them interacting with customers and they all received the same professional service. Hard selling is not Dior style and it’s good to know that staff have a history with the brand, so they know their stuff.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Verdict

Maison Christian Dior is all about the luxury experience. It’s the place to visit if you’re in search of high-quality, well-crafted perfumes with a sense of history. Attention to detail is premium level, especially when it comes to the packaging of purchases.

Contact details

Maison Christian Dior, Shop U315, Sandton City, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 010 001 2590. Email: storemanager@christiandior.co.za.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg 8

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Guerlain Shalimar EDP – Fragrance Of The Month

Guerlain Shalimar

Guerlain Shalimar EDP
Launched

Guerlain Shalimar EDP was launched in 1925.

Perfumer

Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).

Guerlain Shalimar - Jacques Guerlain

PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.

Notes (according to fragrantica.com)

Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.

About the brand

Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.

Guerlain Shalimar - Thierry Wasser

KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.

Impressions

How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website

“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”

When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.

Guerlain Shalimar

I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.

Verdict

A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

To buy in South Africa

From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).

For more info

https://www.guerlain.com/int/en-int/fragrance/womens-fragrances/shalimar/shalimar-eau-de-parfum-spray

Sources

Fragrantica.com, Wikipedia.com, Guerlain.com

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

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Kierin NYC: An Interview With The Niche Fragrance Brand’s Co-Founder Mona Maine De Biran

Kierin NYC - Collection 1

There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years, in general, and NYC-inspired, specifically. Former model-turned-entrepreneur Mona Maine de Biran says her niche brand, Kierin NYC, offers a compelling and uncompromising alternative to what’s currently available on the market.

“I come from a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model).”

After reading a blog-post of mine, Mona got in touch with me and very kindly sent me a discovery kit containing the brand’s four launch EDPs. These are Nitro Noir, Santal Sky, 10am Flirt and Sunday Brunch. I’ve enjoyed wearing all of the Kierin NYC fragrances. There’s something fresh and playful about them. As I wanted to know more about them, I sent Mona some questions on her background, the brand itself, her choice of perfumer and her rejection of gender binary fragrances.

Kierin NYC - Mona Maine de Biran

FRAGRANCE ENTREPRENEUR: Mona Maine de Biran is the co-founder and president of Kierin NYC.

How did the idea for Kierin NYC fragrances come about? 

For a long time, we’ve been unsatisfied with the rules and compromises that existed in the market. Since no one was doing what we wanted to do, it seemed like a natural evolution to do it ourselves.

What’s your background? Do you come from a fragrance background?

I have a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model). My partners are the industry veterans. My husband’s background includes: managing director for Bulgari Parfums, general manager for Puig North America (Prada, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne), VP marketing for Clarins North America, Chanel and Clinique. The fact that I didn’t grow up in the industry, however, has helped form Kierin NYC’s unique perspective and brand values. As co-founder and President of Kierin NYC, I aim to challenge some of the conventional rules of fragrance and offer consumers a fresh perspective with a modern approach.

Kierin NYC Discovery Set

There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years. What makes Kierin NYC different from the multitudes of brands on the market?

Kierin NYC is an uncompromising brand. Current industry trends in unisex aim for compromise, producing scents which I find to be sexless packaged with un-inspirational and minimalistic designs. The “green” industry also fell into that trend in terms of style.

“We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.”

Kierin NYC Collection 2

We provide an alternative, crafting bold scents which are genderless but never generic. Our olfactory vibes are uncompromising, high-quality blends and concentrations that are also sustainably sourced, recyclable, cruelty-free, free of unnecessary stabilisers, toxins and skin allergens, and vegan.

Kierin NYC Nitro Noir EDP

We chose to be an accessibly priced niche fragrance. Because quality niche fragrances tend to be expensive, fewer people can enjoy them. Those who do tend to consider them speciality-use fragrance experiences. Kierin NYC tells stories of every-day NYC life and we would like people to incorporate our fragrances into their own everyday life. We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.

Kierin NYC is different from other NY-centric brands, some of which were successful for their times in the 1990s and early 2000s, in that Kierin NYC expresses the modern spirit of New York City. Our scents are about people (not places). Art and the city are our muses, not celebrities or elitist stereotypes. We do not produce scents that segregate the city by gender or into neighborhoods. We transcend those boundaries with scents made simply for bold individuals. Kierin NYC is a socially conscious brand committed to inclusivity. We have chosen not to perpetuate biases and, for example, do not produce scents “for her” or “for him”. We aim to inspire people, not define or confine them.

Kierin NYC 10am Flirt EDP

Please tell us more about your take on gender within the perfume industry and why you decided not to participate in this binary?

I don’t participate in that binary because it’s insulting. As a model, I never liked fragrance marketers telling me what it meant to smell like or be a woman. They presumed that I should like pink, crystals and the smell of roses (I don’t). And so, my individualism denied, I was forced to shop for fragrances that I like in men’s aisles. I was always perplexed by the fragrance marketer’s logic. Is a Kandinsky feminine or a Warhol macho? When I go to an art gallery, no one tells me where to go. I think we can all agree, in this modern era, that labeling art as “for her” or “for him” would be insulting to us as individuals. Fragrance, like art, is for all… and should be free of gender-bias labels.

Kierin NYC Santal Sky EDP

How did you integrate NYC art into your brand?

The white, opaque bottle is like a canvas. The label is purposely positioned “on the edge” of the square bottle as a metaphor for living life to its fullest. The collage art is reminiscent of the lifestyle of NYC and so many street art and graffiti art murals wrapped around the city’s building corners.

Kierin NYC Mood Image Tattoos

Why did you choose Mathieu Nardin as the perfumer for your fragrances

Our choice began with our commitment to producing sustainably sourced scents. As one of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations, Mathieu was a perfect fit for Kierin NYC. As each scent in our collection began as a mood board and story of real New York City life, Mathieu’s literary and visual methods suited our lifestyle approach. His multi-sensorial approach (smell, sight, sound) to olfactive creation helped us to translate this into “fragrance stories”: Sunday Brunch, 10am Flirt, Nitro Noir and Santal Sky.

Kierin NYC - Mathieu Nardin

PERFECT FIT: Mathieu Nardin is part of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations.

How closely did you work with Mathieu on the creation of the fragrances

My husband and Mathieu worked very closely together to fine-tune the scents and concentrations. It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that. They evoke a vibe, tell a real story of NYC illuminated by fragrance. It took time and required collaboration to perfect each scent.

“It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that.”

What was the starting point for the fragrances? Was a story important to you?

Our fragrances were born with a story, a real NYC story. While these stories are my personal experiences, they are not unique. Many people living here would relate to my stories as their own. New York City is an incredible inspiration because of its people. Diversity is the lifeblood of this city.

Kierin NYC Sunday Brunch EDP

What’s next for Kierin NYC?

We are in full launch mode for 2019. The brand just started a few months ago and launched on Amazon Luxury Beauty in November 2018. Kierin NYC still has a lot of work to do to get the good news of our brand out to the public. Our next launch will be in the UK this April. We will be hosting a fun pop-up store experience in London’s über-trendy Boxpark. Of course, there are many more fragrances in line for our future.

 

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Fragrance Frustrations

Fragrance Frustrations - Flankers

FABULOUS FRANCHISE: Mugler Alien fragrances more often than not add something new or different to the original.

The last time I had a bit of a whinge about the world of perfumes it was about the foibles of my shopping experience (you can read that post here). Since that post, I’ve been thinking a lot about other fragrance frustrations. Admittedly, some of these fragrance frustrations are really petty and personal to me; others I’m sure you can relate to. What are your top fragrance frustrations? Perhaps, it’s whining bloggers…

“Perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me.”

Spray nozzle facing the wrong way

This one is really silly, yet I’m amazed how many times I get this wrong. Scenario: I’m in a rush to wear one of my favourite fragrances, I remove the cap and start spraying… into my hands and everywhere else, but my body. As I said, really silly. Apart from taking more time to check the direction of the spray nozzle to save myself from unnecessary harm, perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me. A luminous hole on the nozzle so that I can quickly spot which way I am spraying? Please tell I’m not the only one to experience this problem.

Fragrance Frustrations - Nozzle Facing The Wrong Way

The umpteenth flanker (and limited edition)

I understand and appreciate the business model of releasing fragrance flankers. Old fans might love the original enough to buy the new version and new consumers might be gained with each new release. The best flankers add something new to the original, but all too often the release of yet another one smacks of desperate cash-ins and diminishing returns. One of my favourite fragrances from the 90s, L’Eau d’Issey, now numbers a staggering 49 flankers and limited editions for the male and female versions combined. YSL Black Opium was released in 2014 and already numbers 14 flankers and limited editions. Are you keeping up?

Fragrance Frustrations - Flankers - Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2017 For He

Bad Instagram behaviour

What’s the deal with people who follow you on Instagram, then unfollow you, then follow you and then unfollow you again? I really don’t get the point of this behaviour. It seems while some people collect fragrances, others collect followers, but have no intention of ever liking your content. You’ve heard of “empty calories”. Well, welcome to the world of “empty followers”. Recently, I’ve even noticed some people liking my content and then unliking it. Oh, stop it now!

Fragrance Frustrations - Instagram Behaviour

Niche fragrance snobbery 

I’ve only really started exploring niche fragrances in the last few years and am thoroughly enjoying making so many new discoveries. There’s also the thrill of so many more to discover, as the market has exploded in the last five years. What does get to me, though, is the wholesale rejection of anything non-niche, including designer, celebrity and bargain fragrances. As if all niche fragrances are good and anything else is rubbish. I agree that most of the innovation is happening in the niche category, but there’s still good stuff to be found in other categories.

Fragrance Frustrations - Niche Fragrance Snobbery - Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

Perfume stories

This is one of my fragrance frustrations/guilty pleasures. Stories are increasingly important in the land of perfume, especially when it comes to the inspiration/creation of a fragrance. Generally, designer fragrance brands go for the story of the man/woman who the fragrance is created for. No matter how many adjectives they use, these ideal people all sound very interchangeable. On the other hand, niche fragrances can be guilty of trying too hard to be different and many of their stories land up being bafflingly obscure. While I find these stories hard work when I want to extract some useful info, I also get perverse joy from reading their nonsensical content.

Fragrance Frustrations - Perfume Stories

GREAT STORY-TELLING AND PERFUME-MAKING: According to DS & Durga, the inspiration for their Burning Barbershop EDP is that “a fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla and lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” The fragrance captures this story so well.

  • You can read my reviews of DS & Durga Burning Barbershop EDP and Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 on my Instagram page, @richgoller. 
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Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel Review

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel

As much as I love a good at-home face treatment, they rarely compare with the results one gets when having it in a salon. This was until I recently used Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel. It’s the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.

“Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is the brand’s strongest at-home peel and produces exceptional results.”

As I get older, it’s not easy to achieve radiant skin. That’s because cell turnover slows down as we age. And did I mention the other pleasures of getting older: fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration and lacklustre skin?

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is designed to deal with these harsh realities with a highly effective combination of ingredients. According to Dermalogica, these include:

  • A unique complex of phytoactive alpha hydroxy acids to help reveal new and firmer skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by removing dulling surface debris without causing dehydration.
  • Fermented plant enzymes to help even skin tone by resurfacing the skin and accelerating cell turnover.
  • Australian caviar lime extract to smooth and brighten for a more radiant complexion.

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel

USING DERMALOGICA RAPID REVEAL PEEL

The product comes in a travel bag of 10 x 3ml tubes. As directed, I’ve been using one capsule a week and love the tingling I experience while the active ingredients do their thing. If you want super-quick results, you can use a capsule a day for the first three days.

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel

After rinsing my face with cold water, I can already feel how my skin is feeling smoother. Even better, I’ve received several compliments about the general condition of my skin.

If you want an at-home product that produces noticeably different results in the radiance of your skin and reduction of fine lines, Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is highly recommended. No downtime is required and the product is also artificial fragrance- and colour-free.

R1 450 for 10 x 3ml tubes in a travel bag with suction cups.

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel