TRAVEL Archives - fragroom

December 14, 2025

D’Orsay Vouloir Être Ailleurs EDT: A Much-Needed Antidote To All The Noise

My last post of the year is a bit of a mishmash. With commentary on the state of perfumery, the world and my state of mind. Plus, a quick hotel visit. Good lord! You’ve been warned… Let’s start with the fragrance that kind of brought all these thoughts together: D’Orsay Vouloir Être Ailleurs EDT.

It’s a 1995 release from the French brand and a recreation of one of their heritage releases from 1915 by the incomparable Olivia Giacobetti. Many of us will know the perfumer for creations such as L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT (1994), Diptyque Philosykos EDP (1996), Hermès Hiris EDT (1999), Frédéric Malle En Passant EDP (2000) and Lubin Idole EDP (2011).

I’ve tried several releases from D’Orsay and enjoyed their relative restraint and corresponding elegance. So when Seb on IG reviewed this one, I knew I should try it. And I’m glad I did.

D’Orsay Vouloir Être Ailleurs EDT reminds me why linden blossom is such an attractive note, with its floral, green and honeyed facets. (FYI: my first post of 2026 will probably focus on this floral).

The skilful perfumer that she is, Giacobetti lets linden blossom take centre stage but keeps it tightly scripted and musky-ish, with supporting honeyed roles from acacia wood and beeswax. There’s also dry grassiness in the mix. Probably the synthetic coumarin.

With all that honey at play, it’s sweet but not overpoweringly so. In fact, what makes this scent so appealing to me is its restraint and delicacy. Just what I need at this time of the year when the frazzle factor is high and something soft and soothing speaks gently to me.

In this regard, the house’s website copy is spot on:

“In its tiny, sweet voice, Vouloir Être Ailleurs transports us back to heady, carefree times. Linden flower, honey and freshly cut hay take us back to when we were 15. Almost adults yet cradled by the perfumes of our childhood. Little did we know then, that in just a few days, we would be grown up for good. A radiant interlude.

“If you are like C.G., you are one of the bright ones: discreet and sensitive. Vouloir Être Ailleurs evokes a restrained personality, both tender and reassuring”.

SOME THEORISING

Although I haven’t tried the new extraits from the company, their names and black bottles tell me perhaps they’ve abandoned the very poetic, but long-winded French names in favour of punchy but predictable monikers such as Flower Lust, Tonka Hysteria, etc.

I was going to title this post “If you want to capture someone’s attention, whisper”, the tagline of the 1970s commercial for Coty Nuance. Retro styling aside, its message feels very outdated in the perfume-land of 2025.

I love bold perfumes, but too many contemporary fragrances are guilty of crossing the line between the bold and the loud / aggressive. Apparently, consumers are demanding performance and what we’re getting is the equivalent of olfactory gratuitous violence.

This reflects the influence of social media. I don’t need research studies to tell me how it’s affected my attention span. Consequently, fragrances are fighting more for our attention, and turning up the volume is the way to go, even if that does result in all sorts of distortions.

On a broader level, it’s not coincidental that the ascendancy of Trump and others of his loud ilk has coincided with the rise of noisy nose-stuff.

Okay, that’s enough theorising.

THE PEECH HOTEL

I captured these pics of Vouloir Être Ailleurs at The Peech Hotel in Melrose, Johannesburg. Some people pair fragrances with celebrities and fashion looks. I seem to be going in a fragrance-hotel direction. Will have to ensure it doesn’t become contrived.

I’ve been to events at this hotel in the past, but this was the first time I had stayed there. As a boutique hotel, I expected it to be intimate. And it didn’t disappoint in that regard.

What I wasn’t expecting was how relaxed I’d feel there. That had a lot to do with the jasmine wafting through the air, the friendliness of the staff and the feeling I was in a suburban forest, complete with weaver nests outside my room.

My room, the Peech Suite, was all about understated elegance, with African touches here and there and a patio looking onto the glorious gardens and the swimming pool area.

D’Orsay Vouloir Être Ailleurs EDT turned out to be the perfect fragrance companion, its nuances stimulated slightly by the heat during the day and more of a skin scent at night when I was under the covers.

D’Orsay fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins. Visit The Peech Hotel for more information.

October 11, 2025

The Art Of Deco Perfumery, From Chanel No 5 To Clive Christian

With all that’s going on in our world, no doubt 2025 will be one for the history books. We live in turbulent and nasty times, so it’s with a measure of relief that I’m able to focus on something that almost seems frivolous: the centenary of Art Deco and, more specifically, Art Deco perfumery.

I’ve also included some visual examples of Art Deco architecture in Johannesburg. South Africa adopted the style enthusiastically and although many buildings have been lost over the years due to the pressures of progress and urban decline, there’s still plenty to admire.

Art Deco JHB - London House — London House (1936) in the Johannesburg CBD.

CHARACTERISTICS OF ART DECO

Although it had already been gathering momentum for several years, the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925 is officially regarded as the global launch of the style.

So what is Art Deco? Let’s use these definitions from Britannica and Sotheby’s, respectively, as starting points:

Art Deco JHB - Aegis — Aegis building (1934) in the Johannesburg CBD.

“Art Deco was a design style of the 1920s and ’30s characterised especially by sleek geometric or stylised forms and by the use of manufactured materials.”

“The visual embodiment of modernist principles, Art Deco celebrated the triumph of technology and the sleek, liberating forms of the machine age, its emphasis on structure responding to a widespread desire for order in the wake of chaos.”

It is most often associated with architecture and Miami, but Art Deco was expressed in numerous ways, from fashion and design to jewellery and art, with many countries having their own variations on the theme. It’s for this reason that it’s often called “the first international style”.

Art Deco JHB - High Court Building — High Court Building (1932) in the Johannesburg CBD.

More than a style, though, Art Deco encompassed a state of mind. With its love of modernity and progress, it’s synonymous with the optimism, glamour and Flapper liberation of the Roaring Twenties. A time of faith in change and all that technology would bring. How different things feel today…

For all its modernity, however, Art Deco was the ultimate cultural appropriater and drew on numerous and diverse influences, including Ancient Egypt and African art.

Art Deco JHB - His Majesty's Building — His Majesty’s Building (1945) in the Johannesburg CBD.

ART DECO AND PERFUMERY

You can’t talk about Art Deco and perfumery without mentioning Lalique and Baccarat bottles. The examples I’ve included below are more easily accessible and won’t entail selling your granny.

CHANEL NO 5 (ERNEST BEAUX)

Launched in 1921, Chanel No 5 was “conspicuously absent” at the 1925 Expo, according to Tilar J Mazzeo in her book The Secret of No 5, whereas Guerlain Shalimar (see below) made the most of it.

Nevertheless, the bottle (modified over the decades) displays the clean, geometric lines of Art Deco. And perfumer Ernest Beaux’s use of aldehydes was perfectly in tune with the innovative spirit of the age.

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

It’s not news that the icon celebrates its century in production in 2025. What’s perhaps less known is that perfumer Jacques Guerlain’s brother Raymond Guerlain’s design for the Shalimar bottle bagged a first prize at the Paris Exhibition. (FYI: Raymond Guerlain’s design for the equally iconic 1912 L’Heure Bleue bottle has the curves of Art Nouveau.)

To celebrate the centenary of the OG, the recently released Guerlain Shalimar L’Essence has been given Art Deco-influenced typography.

Guerlain Shalimar L'Essence EDP — IMAGE: Guerlain.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA

What we now recognise as the ADP bottle has Art Deco written all over it. From what I can glean off the Net (AI not much use, ha!), it seems the bottle took on the style in the 1930s (the fragrance was originally launched in 1916) and is now used across the Colonia, Blu Mediterraneo and Signatures of the Sun collections.

Its design remains as timeless and elegant as the scents it houses.

ELIZABETH TAYLOR PASSION EDP

An avid Art Deco collector whose love of jewellery contributed to her legendary status, the style is clearly visible in bottle for this 1988 release, Elizabeth Taylor Passion EDT.

Before you grown “Ugh, celebrity fragrances!”, let me interject: it’s complex stuff that makes a statement with its retro animalics.

The bottle for Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls also has the style in abundance. And Ms Taylor was always about abundance.

CLIVE CHRISTIAN ART DECO COLLECTION*

In more recent years, some fragrance brands have taken inspiration from the style and its opulent and decadent streak. A fitting example is the British brand Clive Christian’s Art Deco Collection.

It’s eye-wateringly expensive (Clive Christian always is), so best get into Roaring Twenties mode and who cares about the upcoming financial crash of the Great Depression. At least, you’ll smell fabulous with Clive Christian Blonde Amber, Amberwood and the 2018 release Cypress (featured here).

GIVE ME NAMES

Without being a name-dropping bore, a quick list below of people and companies who were integral to Art Deco:

Art: Tamara de Lempicka, Erté.

Furniture: Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann, Maurice Dufrêne.

Fashion: Paul Poiret, Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli.

Jewellery: Fouquet, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels.

Architecture: Auguste Perret, Raymond Hood.

American Gothic meets Art Deco in Raymond Hood’s Radiator Building (1924) in NYC. IMAGE: Architectuul.

*Available at Skins.

September 13, 2025

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP: A Twist Of Spice

There seems to be a consensus among many people that Frédéric Malle fragrances this decade aren’t worth the effort and money. Au contraire! I hate the name of the 2023 release, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP. Sorry. But I love the scent. (FYI: The Suzy Le Helley creation, Acne Studios x Frédéric Malle, launched in 2024, is also worth checking out.)

FM regular Jean-Claude Ellena – Angéliques Sous La Pluie (2000), Cologne Bigarade (2001), Bigarade Concentrée (2002), L’Eau d’Hiver (2003) and Rose & Cuir (2019) – brings a twist to his love of powdery florals (iris) in Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait.

As in a twist of warm spice, especially cloves and capsicum, without weighing it down. In the background, the fruitiness of peach and plum adds to the appeal, while the earthiness of vetiver mingles with creamy vanilla in the drydown. In typical JCE style, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP is a composition that fuses lightness, sensuality and distinctiveness.

Here, it’s captured in a new find of mine, The Reef Hotel, in the Johannesburg CBD. What was once an office block is now a 120-room hotel in Marshalltown, the part of the CBD where security and the potential for rejuvenation is strongest.

The pioneering spirit that built Johannesburg is alive and well, both in ethos and the industrial touches throughout the building.

These details extend to the rooms with their exposed concrete ceilings and photography on the walls behind the beds. Each floor also has its own theme with corresponding information on the city.

My Deluxe Double Room, including the bathroom with a shower and a bath, was super spacious. Just what I needed to counter a recent bout of cabin fever. Standard Double, Standard Twin and Deluxe Twin rooms are available, too.

The recently opened Premier Lounge on the third floor brings a touch of airport VIP-lounge glamour and personalised attention.

And then onto the Elevate Rooftop Bar on the 16th floor, with its incredible urban views. If this doesn’t take your breath away, sorry for you, please check your pulse. Open Tuesday to Sunday, it has a vibe, even when not busy.

The Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg.
Tel: 011 689 1000. reservations@reefhotel.co.za https://www.reefhotel.co.za/

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP is available in South Africa at Skins stores.

September 1, 2025September 2, 2025

Rand Club Heritage + 3 Fine Fragrance Companions

In South Africa, we have developed a pattern in which public holidays (Youth Day, Women’s Day) become months. And so it is with Heritage Day on 24 September, on which South Africans celebrate their diverse heritages. While I agree with the spirit of these things, I find the commercialisation and virtue-signalling off-putting. This year, however, my blogpost, coincidentally, coincides with Heritage Month, and the Rand Club theme (and the featured fragrances) fit rather nicely. What a clever boy!

But first, let me tell you about the Rand Club. Originally founded in 1887, a year after the City of Gold’s founding, with the involvement of Cecil John Rhodes, the grand Edwardian building (the third and current clubhouse opened in 1904) has seen it all over the decades.

From the tumult of the Jameson Raid in 1896, for which several members were convicted of high treason for planning a rebellion against President Paul Kruger, to the decline of the inner city and a major fire in between in 2005.

But that’s in the past and a private member institution like the Rand Club would not be able to survive if it just traded on its illustrious and sometimes controversial history.

If Johannesburg is a city characterised by incessant change, the current demographics of the club couldn’t be more representative: black and white, male and female, straight and openly gay, across a variety of professions, including lawyers, architects, bankers, entrepreneurs and creatives.

Even with its diversity, maintaining the five-storey Rand Club is a mammoth task, with the City of Johannesburg not helping things with its determination to extract any value that remains via inflated rates.

“Like the country homes of the English aristocracy, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world.”

And while members are central to its heartbeat, like the stately country homes of the English aristocracy that have had to open their doors to the public, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world in the form of events and office space, without losing the mystique and benefits of membership.

ACCESS MOST AREAS

That access extends to accommodation for members and non-members alike. As I was hosting a fragrance event at the club in July, the opportunity to spend two nights in one of the rooms on the third floor was a no-brainer. Could there be a better example of living heritage?

“If you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum.”

Room 4 is elegantly minimalist and spacious. After all the sumptuous detail in the rest of the club, it might feel somewhat plain, but if you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum. Apart from basics such as Wi-Fi and a minibar, standout features include sash windows and monochromatic bathroom with shower.

My only complaint? The cooing of the pigeons outside. This is what it sounds like when pigeons cry (and die). Apologies to Prince. Other accommodation options include the Deluxe Room and Luxury Suite.

The stay fell on a Sunday, when the club, its restaurant and bars, including the longest bar in Africa, are officially closed. I literally had the place to myself, apart from a member using the Buckland Library with its extensive selection of historic books and a congregation using The Ballroom for worshipping purposes.

This gave me the ideal chance to take in the club’s ample attractions, including the impressive staircase near the entrance, the dome above it and the operational elevator (dating back to 1904).

In my wanderings around the club (PS: it doesn’t have a gym, but all the traipsing up and down the numerous staircases will have you cardio-fit), I came across The Rhodes Room complete with portraits of the arch-imperialist. As a history graduate, I’m attuned to the indignities and exploitation of colonialism, but don’t believe in erasing the offensive past by removing objects relating to it.

So the club provides many pragmatic history lessons with its fascinating mix of portraits, photographs and sculptures, including those of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki and Cyril Ramaphosa.

OUTSIDE ATTRACTIONS

While there’s plenty to hold the attention inside the club, part of the appeal is the opportunity to experience the CBD.

The club’s location is “relatively safe”, thanks to 24-hour security, the remaining presence of some big businesses in the area, including Standard Bank, its gallery and a small Woolworths food store.

“Within the vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future.”

Within the immediate vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture (Art Deco, Corporate Brutalist, Nouveau Classicist, some restored, others seemingly beyond repair) that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future. Some of these buildings bear the blue plaques of the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, as does the Rand Club.

Rand Club, 33 Loveday Street and Fox Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 870 4260. reception@randclub.co.za. https://www.randclub.co.za/

FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS

Often I “um” and “ah” about the fragrances to bring on my travels, but these three proved to be inspired choices.

SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE EDT (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

This 1976 release is significant for the following reasons:

+ It’s one of the first creations of the great Jean-Claude Ellena, who went on to become the in-house perfumer of Hermès.

+ It’s the debut fragrance from the French brand owned by the d’Ornano family.

* And it’s an absolute green and grassy classic.

It commences in breezy style with citrus notes (bergamot, lemon) mixed with the aromatic herbaceousness of basil and bitterness of galbanum.

Tomato leaf, with all its vegetal, acidic greenery, is what makes this scent so memorable. It’s supported by the floralcy of geranium, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes.

Featuring an oakmoss accord, patchouli, vetiver and musk, the drydown is in classic woody chypre territory and concludes this expression of French living with effortless elegance.

Even better, it’s available in a range of products, including a bath and shower gel and moisturisng lotion. The perfumed deodorant and bath and body oil are featured here.

XERJOFF NAXOS EDP (SERGIO MOMO)

Private member clubs* may not be the smoking havens they once were, so an olfactory substitute like this 2015 release from the Italian niche brand was the way to go.

Part of the 1861 Collection that celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, its history and heritage, it’s become a mega-hit for the company over the years. Its huge popularity is easy to understand. Many tobacco fragrances can be heavy and over-powering, but this one gets the balance between the fresh and the substantial exactly right.

That’s evident from the fresh and aromatic opening featuring notes of lemon, bergamot and lavender to the honeyed tobacco that’s complemented by notes of vanilla and tonka bean, with the unmistakable fuzziness of Cashmeran in the background.

If it sounds sweet, that’s because it is, and if our early summer temperatures continue to rise, no doubt, it will become too much. But for now, Il piacere è tutto mio (“the pleasure is all mine”, or some other mangling of the beautiful Italian language).

*For the record, the Rand Club has a dedicated smoking room for the die-hards).

SISLEY IZIA LA NUIT EDP (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE)

The 2021 follow-up to the 2017 OG continues the rose theme, but with a darker side.

Don’t laugh, but it made me feel like a lady of the night whenever I wore it while staying at the Rand Club. No, not that kind of lady of the night. The kind… Oh, never mind, the dramatic setting was clearly channelling something.

Initially green and spicy, with notes of blackcurrant and cardamon at the fore, the rose is fruity without being overly sweet. Notes of magnolia and freesia support the queen of florals.

There’s nothing new about rose-patchouli combos, but this drydown is particularly alluring with its musky earthiness blended with the creaminess of a most sophisticated vanilla.

While it’s sensual and mysterious, it’s not overdone to the point of caricature. That’s the mark of grown-up elegance.

July 26, 2023

MAURITIUS (3): SO MOODY

My last Mauritius post. Promise.

This one is moody. A bit like me.

While a change of scenery can be good for you, the reality is you take your inherent temperament with you.

Perhaps a new style in progress. Or not.

Technically these are not perfect. A tad grainy. But that’s why I like them.

July 12, 2023

MAURITIUS (2): WHAT I WORE + A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCE SHOPPING ON THE ISLAND

As I hadn’t travelled abroad for quite some time, I’m blaming my notoriously bad packing (too much stuff, most of which I never wear) on that reality. Next time, I’m trying my cousin’s strategy of five of each items which, apart from simplifying my life, would have given me more suitcase space for Mauritius fragrance shopping. T-shirts, shorts, shirts, sarongs, flip-flops (and even swimming trunks, I’ll spare you those pics) became my best clothing friends. If you missed my first Ile Maurice post (island life in an impressionistic style), here’s the link.

I was far more disciplined when it came to packing my fragrance and skincare products, all of which I used regularly.

HERMÈS UN JARDIN À CYTHÈRE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

The Parfums-Jardins Collection (“jardin” = garden in French) has impressed me with its quality and refinement since its launch in 2003 with Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée EDT.

This 2023 addition maintains the standard I’ve come to expect from the range that takes its inspiration from secret gardens (this time, the Greek island of Cythera, also known as Kythira).

It gets going with the freshness of citrus and woodiness of olive trees.
Coumarin is known for its grassy and nutty attributes, and there’s just enough of that here to contribute to the sunny ambience. Slightly salty and warm, the pistachio (increasingly popular in perfumery and cuisine) completes the escapist mood.

Where previous Jardins were characterised by degrees of lushness and greenery, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel wanted Un Jardin à Cythère to be neither green nor floral (I’ve taken creative licence here to include greenery and florals in my pics because it looks good). She realises that with deceptive ease.

The French luxury goods brand (FYI: Its value passed the €200 billion market value earlier this year for the first time, making it the world’s second-most valuable luxury brand after LVMH) does things differently in a subtle way. This EDT is a perfect example of that approach and will always remind me of my time away.

NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM EDP (SERGE MAJOULLIER)

The French pharmacy brand doesn’t only offer quality skincare products. Its fragrance selection is impressive too. Whether you’re on holiday or not, this 2012 Serge Majoullier creation (inspired by the smell of the company’s cult Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse) is fabulous stuff.

The opening is fresh with the citrus of orange and bergamot, but not for long. There’s a lush white floral extravaganza via orange blossom and magnolia. Creamy vanilla and sandalwood, bordering on coconut, are given beach sandiness with skilful use of mineral effects. If that doesn’t sound like vacay vibes, sorry, your visa has been declined.

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ INVISIBLE FLUID PROTECTION

What’s a goth to do when there’s sun, sun, sun? Apart from hide under a hat and avoid the rays (kind of difficult on a tropical island), time to slather on one of the best SPFs I’ve tried in a long time.

My sister gave this to me before I departed for Mauritius. So glad she did. It’s non-greasy, non-sticky, easily absorbed formula is made with La Roche-Posay thermal spring water.

NUXE BIO

My mood wasn’t the only prickly thing before my break. My skin was showing the effects of stress and not looking after myself properly.

Started using Reviving Eye Care Anti-Puffiness, Anti-Dark Circles; Glow Rich Moisturising Cream 24h (neroli scented!); Essential Antioxidant Serum; and Radiance Detox Mask from the French pharmacy brand’s Bio range shortly after I arrived and have continued to use it since getting back to South Africa.

Apart from their organic credentials (*see below), thumbs up to these products for smoother, more moisturised skin.

*FYI (from the brand website): Certified organic by Ecocert, the formulas contain an average of 99% natural-origin ingredients and an average of 63% cosmetic ingredients from organic farming, in comparison with the required minimum of 20% certified organic ingredients out of the total required ingredients depending on the product category and COSMOS charter.

BERDOUES VERVEINE YUZU EDC

I instinctively knew I was going to need something refreshing and rejuvenating and with temperatures of 25°C+, I was chuffed with myself for bringing this 2016 release from the family-owned French brand. I chucked it in my everyday bag and it went everywhere with me when I needed a cooling spritz. Which was often and around the clock. See goth problems above.

It’s simplicity itself with notes of verbena (lemony-clean), yuzu (tart and green) and musk (for a bit of longevity, but not too much, it’s an EDC, after all, but so reasonably priced, just spray some more.)

My only complaint: I wish the company would share the name of the perfumer who created this gem, as it does with the releases from its Collection Grands Crus.

BERDOUES FREESIA & COTON EDT

When I was in the mood for something warmer and more sensual, this 2019 release did the trick rather nicely.

It starts out all citrus-y with notes of bergamot and orange. The florals of freesia and jasmine add to the freshness. The cotton effect from the scent’s name is achieved through some clever lab work and accentuated with the enveloping woodiness of the synthetic Cashmeran and white musk.

CITRONELLA

If you asked me to sum up the smells of the island, it would include words like salty, marine, curry, floral, spicy, piment (the green chilli paste), Phoenix beer (especially when offered so early in the day and as I was on vacay, merci beaucoup). And citronella.

I doused myself in one of the local mosquito repellents but alas, the critters still wouldn’t leave me alone.

MAURITIUS FRAGRANCE SHOPPING

If South Africa is a blip on the global fragrance market, Mauritius is but a speck of sand. When I got home I realised all the island’s fragrance retail outlets would still be outnumbered by those in my local shopping mall. Obvious conclusion: You don’t go to Mauritius for fragrance shopping but don’t let that stop you from indulging in this essential activity.

SUPERMARKETS

In convenience stores (increasingly common), such as Intermart, London Way and Winners, you’ll discover eaux de cologne from brands such as Bien-être, Berdoues, Labell and L.T. Piver, all brilliantly priced. At the time of writing this, you’d be able to get your hands on 250ml of Bien-être L’Original Lavande de Provence EDC for roughly R130 / $7 / £5 / €6.

You’ll also find cheapies from brands such as Ulric de Varens. Don’t be put off by the lack of glamour and style in the way these are presented in-store. Apart from their value for money, EDCs are perfect for the island’s climate and lifestyle: splash and go.

PHARMACIES

Depending which one, you’ll find brands such as L’Occitane en Provence, Roger & Gallet and Yves Rocher.

MADO

The chain Mado offers a more conventional retail environment for fragrance and skincare shopping, with a wide selection of the usual designer brands (Dior, Chanel, YSL, Calvin Klein, etc). Twenty years ago, a shop like this would have been unthinkable and unviable. Mauritius has come a long way.

PHYDRA

Spotted this shop at the rather upmarket shopping centre down the road from where my aunt lives. The small international selection (Lalique and others) expensive, but the brand’s own fragrances cheap ’n cheerful. EMNT (explore more next time).

GALIMARD

Never heard of this French company before, but apparently originally founded in 1747 in Grasse. Tried a selection of their fragrances (including the Collection Privée) and intrigued enough to want to know more about what they do (for example, fragrance workshops). DEMNT (definitely explore more next time).

DUTY-FREE (FOR-ALL), SIR SEEWOOSAGUR RAMGOOLAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

So this is more like it. Spotted loads of bargains and stuff I wouldn’t normally be able to find easily in South Africa (for example, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Collection). Well priced too, even with charges in euros.

However, with their low prices on booze (whisky, etc), my carefully cultivated holiday mood was under threat from the hordes loading up on Johnnie Walker and I made a quick exit. Next time, I’ll know what to expect.

The pic below says so much…

Me waiting for the flight to be called. Thinking, relieved to be away from Duty-Free, need to see my barber pronto, had a great time but this pigmentation needs serious attention. Will I get home in time before the scheduled power failure?

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE

I was waiting outside the So’flo shopping mall, admiring the vegetation, when an employee of the Mauritius Tourism Authority and I started chatting. He recommended the following four essentials to buy while in Mauritius: vanilla, rum, masala, tea.

I agree, especially the locally produced rum, with two brands standing out for me: Chamarel and Bougainville (yes, my cousin’s wife’s family owns the company that produces it, but I’d still praise the deliciousness of this spirit, which up till now I’d only really appreciated as a perfume note).

July 1, 2023July 26, 2023

MAURITIUS (1): POSTCARDS (& BLURS) FROM THE EDGE

Some of you might have noticed I was offline recently. If you were asking, “Where the hell is Richard?”, this post will provide several answers.

Okay, so I was in Mauritius. Visiting and reconnecting with family, attending a wedding, escaping from incessant power failures and relentless pessimism about the state of South Africa, taking a break from IG and experiencing a world that couldn’t be more different from the city I live in, Johannesburg. Actually, it was my first proper and much-needed holiday in years.

I was away for three weeks and it’s taken me another three weeks to go through and edit all the hundreds of pics I took. So here’s some snaps from my time in Ile Maurice, the Indian Ocean island that’s a four-hour flight from JHB. Trying to keep this mostly visual. Impossible to show everything. Wouldn’t want to be a vacay bore.

Part 1: Island life in an impressionistic style and in no particular sequence or importance.

Part 2: What I wore fragrance-wise, fragrance shopping, plus some skincare products.

Part 3: Moody. I’ll leave it at that for now.

Firstly, let me start by saying I was overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of my family, many of whom I hadn’t seen for decades (I was last in Mauritius in the 1980s, oui, I’m that old). They were most tolerant of my mangled Fran-glais and often took me on sight-seeing excursions. Some pics in this post taken from a moving car, hence the blurry drive-by shooting effect, which I quite like.

Going back to the wedding (my second cousin Alexandre et Rachel), these Mauritians sure know how to party. Below, guests at the wedding celebrating the entrance of the bridal couple. Standing on chairs, waving their napkins and singing the anthemic Johnny Hallyday hit Allumer le Feu. Apparently, the last people left the next morning at 4am. I left at the very sensible hour of midnight. Mon dieu!

If you want to see the more traditional postcard vistas of sun, sea, beaches, colourful architecture, mountains, etc, here we go…

And then flowers and more flowers. I became increasingly obsessive, as is my wont, with photographing blooms and the lush vegetation (the island was verdant, thanks to good rains). So just two of my favourites here, which capture the tropical vibe of the island well.

Even when overcast and misty, Grand Bassin / Ganga Talao is spectacular. It was deserted on the day we visited, apart from noisy monkeys. Imagine being here during the Hindu festival, Maha Shivaratri, when thousands of devotees celebrate the god Shiva.

THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT MAURITIUS

Hunting is popular. Here, deer in the blurry distance. It’s incredibly well controlled and regulated. And if you’re okay with eating industrial-scale meat, you can’t really complain about shooting these animals. For the record: I didn’t take out Bambi’s mother but I understand the process more than I used to.

Beaucoup développement. All the more noticeable when an island is so small (61km long, 45km wide). The proliferation of roadworks, luxury homes and shopping malls a sign the place is in demand and on the up. How much is too much? Well, that would require another post.

Once almost totally reliant on sugarcane and tourism (still the mainstay of the economy), Mauritius has been positioning itself as a high-tech hub. Cybercity is an expression of that ambition.

ALIEN INVASION? Non, c’est le Mauritius Commercial Bank on a rainy day.

With development and increased prosperity, traffic congestion (“embouteillages” en français) is becoming a problem. But at least the scenery is a distraction while you’re waiting…

It’s going to the dogs. Non, pas de cette manière. The island is doing quite well in the scheme of things and is seen as an African success story. But there are lots of ownerless dogs loitering about. Like their human counterparts, they’re generally laid-back, not vicious at all. This cutie snapped outside the local shopping mall. No, you can’t come home with me.

It’s not all sun and beaches. There’s poverty too, especially among the Creole population. I took this pics on the bus (frequent and cheap) from Tamarin to Riviere Noire.

NON, MERCI (AKA WHAT I COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT)

The bloody mosquitoes. Gosh, these things wouldn’t leave me alone, devouring me, I couldn’t stop scratching. Fresh South African blood, according to my cousin. Hmmm…

This rather threatening and ugly building is the Russian embassy. Opposite my aunt’s home in Floréal. I resisted all temptation to graffiti the walls with pro-Ukraine sentiments. Bon garçon!

As Mauritius imports most goods from countries such as South Africa, prices can be eye-watering if you’re not in the pound / euro / dollar seats. That sting was softened by the lure of fragrance shopping, which I will explore in the next post.

SOME THEORISING

THE PEECH HOTEL

Share this:

Like this:

CHARACTERISTICS OF ART DECO

ART DECO AND PERFUMERY

CHANEL NO 5 (ERNEST BEAUX)

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA

ELIZABETH TAYLOR PASSION EDP

CLIVE CHRISTIAN ART DECO COLLECTION*

GIVE ME NAMES

Share this:

Like this:

Share this:

Like this:

ACCESS MOST AREAS

OUTSIDE ATTRACTIONS

FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS

SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE EDT (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

XERJOFF NAXOS EDP (SERGIO MOMO)

SISLEY IZIA LA NUIT EDP (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE)

Share this:

Like this:

Share this:

Like this:

HERMÈS UN JARDIN À CYTHÈRE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM EDP (SERGE MAJOULLIER)

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ INVISIBLE FLUID PROTECTION

NUXE BIO

BERDOUES VERVEINE YUZU EDC

BERDOUES FREESIA & COTON EDT

CITRONELLA

MAURITIUS FRAGRANCE SHOPPING

SUPERMARKETS

PHARMACIES

MADO

PHYDRA

DUTY-FREE (FOR-ALL), SIR SEEWOOSAGUR RAMGOOLAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE

Share this:

Like this:

THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT MAURITIUS

NON, MERCI (AKA WHAT I COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT)

Share this:

Like this: