Textures Of Cape Town (Beyond The Sun, Sea & Sand)

Cape Town

From its beaches and Table Mountain to its laid-back lifestyle, Cape Town is celebrated for its beauty. But beauty is often to be found in the less obvious and more intriguing textures and details. I’ve deliberately not captioned most of these pics from a recent, all-too-brief trip to the city. Sometimes copy unnecessarily directs our thoughts.

Cape Town

Close-up of a work by AD-Reflex at the Hindsights and Foresights exhibition at the Deepest Darkest Contemporary Gallery, De Waterkant, Cape Town.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Okay, so I had to include one pic of H20. I ain’t no water baby, but I always find looking at it soothing and relaxing.

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Cape Town

Fragrance Etiquette: The New Rules (Plus Some Things That Never Change)

Fragrance Etiquette

There’s no doubt that we are living in a time of rapid change, economically, socially and politically. Many of the old rules simply don’t apply anymore and the same applies to wearing fragrance, too. There used to be a very simple list of do’s and don’ts for fragrance etiquette. For example, at its most basic, fresh and citrusy fragrances for summer, warm and spicy fragrances for winter. But do rules like this still apply?

Increasingly, how to wear fragrance is all about modern etiquette. It can be a potential minefield of confusion, misunderstanding and embarrassment.

Fragrance Etiquette

COOL COLOGNE: Why not reach for a citrus scent in winter.

To help you navigate through these realities of fragrance etiquette, here are some of the new rules of fragrance. I’ve also included a brief reminder of those that will never change.

THOU SHALT WEAR WHAT YOU LIKE, BUT BE OCCASION APPROPRIATE

Firstly, and most importantly, things are a lot more flexible than they used to be, which might irk those who prefer their lives to be more black and white.

Generally, this means that we are now all encouraged to wear whatever fragrance we like. Modern fragrance etiquette is not about following the dictates of fashion and marketing anymore; it’s about personal style and preferences. So if you have a thing for the big and bold fragrances of the 80s, go for it.

Fragrance Etiquette

BIG AND BOLD: If the 80s rules for you, make the most of your personal preferences, but…

Of course, rules always come with qualifiers and caveats (which may even seem contradictory). So while it’s good to indulge in what works for you, it’s also about being occasion appropriate.

That rich and boozy scent might smell like a million dollars on you, but it’s not going to win you any points at a corporate-job interview, for example. This leads us to the following occasion-appropriate rule of fragrance etiquette.

Fragrance Etiquette

UNDER THE INFLUENCE: Perhaps it’s not the best idea to wear a boozy scent, such as John Varvatos Dark Rebel, to a job interview.

THOU SHALT KEEP IT TO YOURSELF IN AN OPEN-PLAN OFFICE

The open-plan office is not going away any time soon. It has brought with it a multitude of sensitivities, regarding what to eat, how loud to talk, etc.

Your choice of fragrance for the office can become highly contested terrain. If not handled correctly, it could result in one of those managerial emails requesting wearers of “strange” and “exotic” scents to be more sensitive to the olfactory needs of their colleagues.

In short, while others might admire your impeccable “scents of style” at a distance, they don’t necessarily won’t to be exposed to it, in close proximity in an open-plan environment.

“Without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours.”

So without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours. This doesn’t mean nondescript and boring, but do think twice about so-called “beast mode” fragrances if you don’t want to get up the noses of your co-workers.

Fragrance Etiquette

OPEN-PLAN FRIENDLY? Keep super-distinctive and -powerful fragrances like Orto Parisi Terroni EDP for after-hours.

THOU SHALT NOT STICK RELIGIOUSLY TO SEASONS

This used to be one of the clear-cut rules of fragrance etiquette but, in the new flexi era, is showing signs of becoming more relaxed. If you enjoy wearing citrusy scents in winter, there’s nothing to stop you from doing so. Equally, if you want to wear an oud scent in summer, there’s no reason why you can’t.

As Helen Fitzgerald writes on MelMagazine.com: “For the most part, a summer scent is a marketing construct, much like the idea of a gendered scent. One can wear any type of scent in any season and have it ‘work,’ depending on the desired effect.

“Perfume is about fantasy, so finding a scent you want to wear in summer is about figuring out what your fantasy of summer is.”

Fragrance Etiquette

FLEXI FRAGRANCE: Wearing an oud fragrance in summer is perfectly acceptable.

All of this is done with the knowledge, of course, that certain fragrances will react more to increased levels of heat, humidity and sweatiness.

THOU SHALT NOT BE A SELF-LIMITING FRAGRANCE SNOB

The biggest growth in the fragrance industry in the last 10 years has been in the niche sector. Unfortunately, it has also been accompanied by the rise of fragrance snobbery, where anything non-niche is considered to be of inferior quality.

While most of the innovation in fragrance is happening in niche, the truth is that there also countless over-priced, average-smelling scents in that category.

“It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear.”

Fragrance Etiquette

STAR SCENT: There are some surprisingly good celeb fragrances.

It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear. There’s a lot of mediocrity to be found in every category, from designer and celebrity to budget, but there are also treasures to be found in each. It would be a pity to limit your fragrance options by being an unbearable snob.

THOU SHALT CROSS THE GENDER DIVIDE

While we’re on the subject of improving your options, it’s an increasingly acceptable part of fragrance etiquette for men to make a detour via the female counters and shelves to buy female fragrances for themselves. Women have been buying men’s fragrances for themselves for many years and now adventurous men have the opportunity to make up for what they have been missing out on.

Fragrance Etiquette

GENDER GAP: Increase your options by exploring female fragrances.

Linked to this is the rise of unisex/shared/gender-neutral fragrances, one of the biggest trends in recent years. Increasingly, men no longer want to be confined by the labels of “for him” and “for her” fragrances and are looking for perfumes that appeal to both genders.

BARGAIN HUNTING IS COOL

Whichever way you look at it, fragrance is an expensive business, especially on the niche side, so being a savvy consumer is more important than ever.

There’s much hype and a hefty price tag when a big new designer fragrance is launched. If you are willing to wait six months, say, chances are the “hottest new launch of 2019” will also become “the best bargain of 2019” when discounts become more common.

Niche too expensive for you? There are numerous reputable Facebook swap and purchase groups where niche’s usually higher prices are eminently more negotiable.

Fragrance Etiquette

EXPENSIVE BUSINESS: It’s very possible to find niche fragrance bargains on reputable Facebook groups.

And let’s not forget the bargain shelves. They might not be adorned with slick branding materials, but they are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.

“Bargain shelves are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.”

SOME OF THE OLD RULES STILL APPLY

Among all the change, it’s reassuring to know that some things remain the same when it comes to fragrance etiquette.

LESS IS STILL MORE

It’s very tempting to over-apply fragrance. After all, it is your favourite and everyone should be allowed to smell how good it is on you. But that all depends on your view of the effect of fragrance on others. To entice and intrigue? Or overpower and dominate? Besides, this would be infringing on the personal space of others.

TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, ON YOUR SKIN

For all sorts of reasons. Fragrance is a luxury purchase, so you don’t want to waste your hard-earned cash on something that doesn’t suit you. Just because it smells great on a buddy, doesn’t mean it’s going to work on you. You get the picture…

Fragrance Frustrations

Fragrance Frustrations - Flankers

FABULOUS FRANCHISE: Mugler Alien fragrances more often than not add something new or different to the original.

The last time I had a bit of a whinge about the world of perfumes it was about the foibles of my shopping experience (you can read that post here). Since that post, I’ve been thinking a lot about other fragrance frustrations. Admittedly, some of these fragrance frustrations are really petty and personal to me; others I’m sure you can relate to. What are your top fragrance frustrations? Perhaps, it’s whining bloggers…

“Perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me.”

Spray nozzle facing the wrong way

This one is really silly, yet I’m amazed how many times I get this wrong. Scenario: I’m in a rush to wear one of my favourite fragrances, I remove the cap and start spraying… into my hands and everywhere else, but my body. As I said, really silly. Apart from taking more time to check the direction of the spray nozzle to save myself from unnecessary harm, perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me. A luminous hole on the nozzle so that I can quickly spot which way I am spraying? Please tell I’m not the only one to experience this problem.

Fragrance Frustrations - Nozzle Facing The Wrong Way

The umpteenth flanker (and limited edition)

I understand and appreciate the business model of releasing fragrance flankers. Old fans might love the original enough to buy the new version and new consumers might be gained with each new release. The best flankers add something new to the original, but all too often the release of yet another one smacks of desperate cash-ins and diminishing returns. One of my favourite fragrances from the 90s, L’Eau d’Issey, now numbers a staggering 49 flankers and limited editions for the male and female versions combined. YSL Black Opium was released in 2014 and already numbers 14 flankers and limited editions. Are you keeping up?

Fragrance Frustrations - Flankers - Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2017 For He

Bad Instagram behaviour

What’s the deal with people who follow you on Instagram, then unfollow you, then follow you and then unfollow you again? I really don’t get the point of this behaviour. It seems while some people collect fragrances, others collect followers, but have no intention of ever liking your content. You’ve heard of “empty calories”. Well, welcome to the world of “empty followers”. Recently, I’ve even noticed some people liking my content and then unliking it. Oh, stop it now!

Fragrance Frustrations - Instagram Behaviour

Niche fragrance snobbery 

I’ve only really started exploring niche fragrances in the last few years and am thoroughly enjoying making so many new discoveries. There’s also the thrill of so many more to discover, as the market has exploded in the last five years. What does get to me, though, is the wholesale rejection of anything non-niche, including designer, celebrity and bargain fragrances. As if all niche fragrances are good and anything else is rubbish. I agree that most of the innovation is happening in the niche category, but there’s still good stuff to be found in other categories.

Fragrance Frustrations - Niche Fragrance Snobbery - Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

Perfume stories

This is one of my fragrance frustrations/guilty pleasures. Stories are increasingly important in the land of perfume, especially when it comes to the inspiration/creation of a fragrance. Generally, designer fragrance brands go for the story of the man/woman who the fragrance is created for. No matter how many adjectives they use, these ideal people all sound very interchangeable. On the other hand, niche fragrances can be guilty of trying too hard to be different and many of their stories land up being bafflingly obscure. While I find these stories hard work when I want to extract some useful info, I also get perverse joy from reading their nonsensical content.

Fragrance Frustrations - Perfume Stories

GREAT STORY-TELLING AND PERFUME-MAKING: According to DS & Durga, the inspiration for their Burning Barbershop EDP is that “a fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla and lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” The fragrance captures this story so well.

  • You can read my reviews of DS & Durga Burning Barbershop EDP and Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 on my Instagram page, @richgoller. 

Beauty In The Strangest Of Places

Beauty - Jasmine.

Firstly, credit where it’s due, plus an apology if I am bastardising its original meaning. The title of this blog post is a paraphrasing of a quote about beauty from designer Alexander McQueen.

“Beauty can come from the strangest of places, even the most disgusting of places. It’s the ugly things I notice more, because other people tend to ignore the ugly things.”

It comes from the book Savage Beauty by Andrew Bolton (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York). I did not get to see the retrospective show of McQueen’s creations. However, I do get intense, visceral pleasure paging through this book, which highlights the Scottish designer’s maverick approach.

Beauty - Savage Beauty.

SHOW AND TELL: An image from the book Savage Beauty.

Perhaps it’s the fact that I have not had a proper holiday for years (workaholic, moi?) and I am yearning for some travel / escape / change of scenery / passport-stamping.

The good news is that I have a family road-trip coming up in mid-August. In the meantime, I explore the idea of beauty as a tonic. These are just some of the things in my immediate vicinity that do the trick.

LIME LIGHT

Can a leaf lift your spirits? Oh yes, if it’s a lime leaf. I get a kick from rubbing lime leaves between my fingers. This releases a fresh, crisp, citrus scent that never fails to captivate me. And the lime itself calls for a mojito.

Beauty - Lime Leaves.

VITAMIN SEA

While the Amalfi vacation will have to wait, Tom Ford Sole di Positano will do for now. There’s a veritable citrus and floral cocktail in this EDP, including notes of Calabrian bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, shiso leaf, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley and neroli. Alas, on my skin, it dissipates very quickly. A case of fleeting beauty…

Beauty - Tom Ford Sole di Positano.

INDIAN SUMMER

We are having a very warm winter here in Johannesburg, with day-time temperatures averaging above 20ºC. As a result, the jasmine is out even earlier than usual. I am not complaining. Its rich scent is my imaginary olfactory ticket to an Indian summer.

Beauty - Jasmine.

VINTAGE VIEW

There’s something very re-assuring about a vintage treasure. I adore this kit, a gift from my sister. The leather case contains two functional glass bottles and glass containers. There’s no company or brand name on it, so I can’t trace its origins. And, you know what, it doesn’t matter.

Beauty - Vintage.

Why Men Should Wear Women’s Fragrances

I have been mulling this post for some time. Why do so many of us buy into the notion that fragrances are specifically “male” and “female”, “him” and “her”, “homme” and “femme”?

For a long time, I was also guilty of such self-limiting behaviour. In my defence (and this is admittedly a rather weak defence), I associated “women’s fragrances” with all things sickly sweet. Blame it on the joys of badly ventilated, open-plan offices where everything is to be shared.

Of course, there’s so much more to female fragrances than candy overload. Just as there’s so much more to male fragrances than aquatic notes. A lot of women already know this fundamental truth. They buy men’s fragrances not only for their fathers, partners and sons. They buy men’s fragrances for themselves, because they realised they were missing out on a good thing.

To a large degree, a lot of “male” and “female” is just marketing, with gender stereotyping galore. Perfumer Mark Buxton summed it up best in a recent Fragroom interview: “If you like a specific smell, wear it. What’s masculine or feminine in the perfume world anyway?”

“If you like a specific smell, wear it. What’s masculine or feminine in the perfume world anyway?” – Mark Buxton 

3 very good reasons why men should wear female fragrances

Your masculinity will not be questioned. Au contraire. It takes a very self-assured man to be brave enough to explore a whole new world of possibilities.

It increases your options. If buying a new fragrance, gets you going, just think about all the choices you will now have at your disposal.

Fact: Floral notes work very well on men, especially roses.

3 tips to get you started

Next time you are out and about buying a fragrance for yourself, make a detour via the female counters or shelves. If you are not quite ready to say you are looking for a female fragrance for yourself, a little lie will be acceptable. “I am looking for a great rose fragrance for my girlfriend” will do.

Allow yourself some initial olfactory confusion, and even revulsion, at first. You are just retraining your brain and sense of smell to respond to new stimuli.

As with any fragrance, experiment until you find what works for you. And always try the fragrance on your skin.

Some recommendations

Ready to explore? Here are some female fragrances I have taken to wearing recently. Perhaps you will like these. If not, keep hunting…

Please note that this teeny-weeny selection doesn’t even include the classics: Chanel No 5, Guerlain Shalimar, Dior Poison…

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT

With its marine opening and minimalist character, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT is a gentle intro to the world of female fragrances. Then you will be hooked by its jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and orange blossoms. Methinks the water-drop bottle design has a tool-like appearance.

Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Pure EDT

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

Yes, your mama will probably have several Elizabeth Arden fragrances and she knows best. Like its namesake, Elizabeth Arden White Tea is a relaxing and comfortable scent, with notes of fern, the sea, clary sage, white tea, tonka and musks capturing this mood so well.

Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb EDP Extreme

You should already know Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb. While Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb EDP Extreme provides some floral fireworks in the form of jasmine, orchid, osmanthus and freesia notes, the major helping of vanilla gives it serious sensuality.

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb EDP Extreme

Alaia EDP Blanche

There are only five listed notes in Alaia EDP Blanche: powder, solar, vanilla, musk and white flowers. It’s very elegantly on the right side of sweet. If simplicity is the ultimate sophistication, Alaia EDP Blanche scores big time.

Alaia EDP Blanche

Elie Saab Nuit Noor EDP

A big fragrance for big boys and girls. Rose takes the leading role in Elie Saab Nuit Noor EDP. Ylang-ylang, wood, incense, patchouli and black pepper add to the sense of drama. Master perfumer Francis Kurkdijan created this one, so top quality assured.

Elie Saab Nuit Noor

Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc For Her EDP

Don’t judge a perfume by its lurid pink bottle. I did not like Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc For Her EDP at all when I first tried it almost six months ago. What was I thinking! Rose, peonies, pink peppercorns, patchouli, musk and amber make this a superb, stand-out fragrance.

Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc For Her

ARE YOU A FRAGRANCE SNOB?

Snob Avon

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL… But not for public display.

If you think that the world of fragrance is just about pretty bottles and nice smells, think again. Welcome to the realm of the fragrance snob. I use this term affectionately, because I am guilty sometimes of being a frightful fragrance snob.

Of course, I am not the only one. So read through the statements below to see how you place on the snob-o-meter. Be honest. I won’t judge you…

  • If there’s one thing that gets you going, it’s the commercialisation of perfumery. You regularly vent on Fragrantica about the umpteenth flanker in a designer fragrance range and how the once mighty have fallen so low.
  • And let’s not even got started on the reformulation or discontinuation of your favourite fragrance.
  • And celebrity fragrances…
  • You speak about the masters of fragrance as if they are your best friends. Sometimes you even know their fragrances better than they do.
  • Now that everybody loves Comme des Garcons fragrances, you are on the hunt for a new niche fragrance house. Escentric Molecules, Laboratory Perfumes and Nasomatto are just some of your new faves. For now, at least…
  • You are known for your mastery of fragrance-speak, of which you are very proud. Words like “sillage”, “projection”, “chypre”, “juice”, “drydown”, “layering”, “neo-oriental” and “absolue” come so easily to you.
Snob CDG

FINDING A NEW NICHE: The more obscure, the better.

  • You have a soft spot for some cheap and cheerful fragrances from the likes of The Body Shop, Avon and Yardley but, heaven forbid, these would never feature on your Instagram. You would rather use IG to display your vintage Christian Dior Eau Sauvage and Guerlain Vetiver.
  • You can debate the note structure of a fragrance for hours and are adamant that you can detect the rare wild Haiti rose as a top note in so-and-so’s newest scent, even though it’s not listed in the official note structure.