Category: FRAGRANCE

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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH MASTER PERFUMER BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR

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MASTER NOSE: Bertrand Duchaufour

Born in Nancy, France, and trained in Grasse, the home of French perfumery, Bertrand Duchaufour is widely regarded as one of the masters of modern perfumery. In a career spanning over three decades, the highly sought-after nose has worked with some of the most prestigious names in the biz, including Acqua di Parma, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme des Garçons, Penhaligon’s, Eau d’Italie, Givenchy and Dior.

The creator of modern classics such as Comme des Garçons Series 3, Incense: Kyoto, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, Penhaligon’s Sartorial and Amouage Jubilation XXV took time out of his busy schedule to talk about his creative process, success and current projects.

What fragrance are you wearing today? I don’t wear any fragrance. I try to keep the most distance possible with fragrances and scents. If I can work in a pure way of abstraction, I will do it.

What’s your guiding principle when you create a fragrance? To keep distance and to let time act as much as I do. I am driven by imagination, but that is always driven by an idea or an image. Conceptualisation is important. It’s impossible to have any input without it.

I never know. A success is always a surprise. There is no recipe.

Do you ever take trends into account in your creative process? No, never. I try to be completely free regarding that, even if I go wrong!

Is being a nose a gift or a skill? Both. It’s a gift as soon as we want to do something with it. It’s a skill as soon as we work hard and constantly to improve it.

How do you know when you have created a winner? I never know. A success is always a surprise. There is no recipe.

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SPECIAL PLACE: L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse

You have created well over 100 fragrances. Is there any particular fragrance that has a special place in your heart? Yes, maybe two or three of them, such as the original Eau d’Italie and L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse.

What projects are you working on at the moment? I am working on different fragrance collections for brands such as Phuong Dang and Pont des Arts. Those brands are unknown at the moment and I have developed global collections for them. It is very exciting! I continue to work for other brands like Enchanted Forest, Grandiflora, Neela Vermeire and many others in the same way.

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PASSION PROJECT: Phuong Dang fragrances.

What smell is the most evocative for you? The smell of earth. It’s the biggest and deepest one!

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7 WAYS TO LOOK FRESH WITHOUT SPENDING A CENT

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While grooming can be an expensive business, you don’t have to spend a fortune either to look good. Read on for a mix of common sense and freebie finesse.

DRINK MORE WATER

While there’s no conclusive scientific evidence that H2O is an anti-ageing tonic, as proclaimed by countless celebs, drinking enough water throughout the day is highly effective in minimising the appearance of fine lines and plumping up the skin. So drink up and slowly does it.

CONQUER THOSE UNRULY EYEBROWS

Messy eyebrows are guaranteed to add several years to your face. Never mind that they are highly distracting for anyone looking at you. Arm yourself with a pair of tweezers and judiciously pluck (minor ouch!) any obviously out-of-place hairs. A few words of caution: Don’t go to the other extreme and over-pluck your brows. You want to look fresh, not feminine. PS: While you’re at it, tackle any unsightly nasal and ear hairs. Your partner will thank you for it.

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STRESS LESS

The funny thing about stresses, worries and burdens is that they eventually show up on your face (and elsewhere) as frown lines – and no premium product will take care of that. While it’s impossible (and unhealthy) to eliminate all worries, it’s important to find some stress-relief techniques that work for you. Although this is very much a work in progress, I find journalling my thoughts and a bit of art therapy good for me. My father swears by walking and looks way younger than his 82 years as a result.

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SNAP UP SOME FREE SAMPLES

The next time you are perusing the fragrance and grooming product counters, ask the sales consultant for a free sample. Apart from being budget-friendly, this is also a smart way to test a product before committing to a purchase. These promotional freebies are often in limited supply, so be nice to the consultant if you want them to part with the goods.

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VOLUNTEER TO BE A MODEL

No Zoolander antics required. Apprentice hairdressers need to practise their skills on a real person, so inquire at some of the larger hair salon chains if they require models. These apprentice sessions are supervised, so relax. Similarly, beauty colleges offer free (or reduced price services) for a session with a trainee therapist. This way you score a facial, manicure or massage and the student gets valuable experience. A win-win situation all round. You can’t argue with that.

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CLIP THOSE CLAWS

While a professional manicure or pedicure is money well spent, sticking to the basics at home will serve you well. Make it a habit to cut your nails (both hands and feet) once a week. There’s just no excuse for Hobbit-like digits.

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CUT DOWN ON THE SMOKING, COFFEE AND BOOZE

From a pure vanity perspective, smoking is ageing in the long term. Fact. Excessive consumption of coffee and alcohol can also lead to short-term dehydration, which shows up on your face quicker than you can say, “Another please pronto!” Enough said.

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FRAGRANCE REVIEW: EAU DE LACOSTE L.12.12 MAGNETIC POUR LUI

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The last Lacoste fragrance I tried was the limited edition L.12.12 Energized, released in 2016. That particular EDT was a typically fresh expression of mint, ginger, tuberose and vetiver notes. A good spritz and go.

The latest addition to the L.12.12 range sees a simultaneous launch of his and hers fragrances, Magnetic Pour Lui EDT and Magnetic Pour Elle EDP, inspired by the legendary dynamic between tennis mixed double partners René Lacoste and Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920s. Apparently, this is the first time that the French fashion company has launched a dual male and female scent at the same time.

While I am a sucker for a good story and the Lacoste brand has a fascinating heritage to draw on, nothing like wearing a fragrance in a variety of contexts to get a feel for it.

I have given Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui several outings – from gym, to lunch with a friend, to grocery shopping, even to bed (yes, I do wear fragrances to bed – but that’s another post). On all those occasions I noticed how this fragrance’s initial fresh opening (juniper and bamboo notes) evolved into something warmer and more interesting (patchouli and amber notes).

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However, I also noticed how Magnetic faded fairly quickly and, with its average projection, required a few re-sprays during the day. So if you’re looking for a beast of a fragrance, best step back from that fragrance counter. It’s also not a classic, but then not all fragrances need to be for you to part with your hard-earned cashola.

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui is still a good everyday fragrance, which I found best suited to casual occasions. It’s also probably best suited to younger gents. But I ain’t no ageist, so I will keep this one in my gym bag, which seems fitting for a brand with such a sporty aesthetic.

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Magnetic Pour Lui (R950 for 50ml, R1 265 for 100ml and R1 530 for 175ml) is available from Edgars, Red Square, Truworths, Foschini, Dis-Chem, Clicks and Markham stores.  

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A ROCK ‘N ROLL WEEK WITH JOHN VARVATOS FRAGRANCES

While many South African men will not be aware of John Varvatos’ major fashion credentials, they are about to get a good dose of the American designer’s rock ’n roll aesthetic through the recent launch of his fragrances in the country.

Before launching his own menswear label in 2000 that now includes clothing, accessories and shoes, Detroit-born Varvatos worked for the likes of Calvin Klein and Polo Ralph Lauren. The John Varvatos range of fragrances was launched in 2004, with the same meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship that characterises his menswear.

As a keen fragrance Instagrammer (@richgoller), I have been seeing lots of posts on John Varvatos fragrances, so I was super-thrilled to get a package of the five fragrances that are exclusive to Edgars stores: John Varvatos EDT, John Varvatos Artisan EDT, John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT and John Varvatos Oud EDP.

I spent a week sampling and getting to know these fragrances, all created by highly regarded nose Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the man behind scents such as Tom Ford Private Blend Neroli Portofino and Clinique Happy.

These are my quick impressions of them below:

John Varvatos EDT: Love the rich, sexy and sophisticated vibe of this oriental woody scent, featuring standout notes of plum, leather, fig, cinnamon and cedar. A fine fragrance debut that, like a good leather jacket, will always be in style.

JV EDT EditJohn Varvatos Artisan EDT: A very different feel, this one, with a fresh, clean and crisp citrus blast that’s tempered by ginger and woody notes. A good choice for casual-chic moods and if you like your scent to remind you of just-washed shirts.

JV Artisan EditJohn Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT: The hand-knitted rope packaging perfectly captures the Mediterranean inspiration behind this one. With lots of citrus and herbal appeal, it does a great job of conjuring up coastal life, without resorting to marine scent clichés.

JV Artisan Acqua EditJohn Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT: Wow! The boozy Jamaican rum opening of this one is incredible. And then there’s all that addictive sugarcane, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla and cardamom. My favourite of the five, I keep on coming back to this very special one.

JV Dark Rebel EditJohn Varvatos Oud EDP: Mr Varvatos’ take on oud is surprisingly reserved and subtle, but that’s not a bad thing in a genre that can be overpowering and intimidating. While the packaging is opulent, the juice says expensive without trying too hard.

JV Oud EditAlthough the above fragrances are just a snap-shot of the John Varvatos fragrance line (there are nine other fragrances, including the recently released Dark Rebel Rider), they all offer something different to what’s currently available on the South African market. And for men browsing increasingly crowded fragrance counters that can only be a good thing.

PS: If you’re into layering your fragrances, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT + John Varvatos Oud EDP = Super Intoxicating Hit.

John Varvatos EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml and John Varvatos Oud EDP (R1 995 for 125ml) are exclusive to Edgars stores.

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MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN AND 4 OTHER GROOMING MYTHS

Like nutrition and health, the world of grooming is riddled with myths, fictions and half-truths. These are some of the most common myths:

MEN AGE BETTER THAN WOMEN
Wishful thinking, guys. This may be the case in our 20s when shaving helps remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell renewal. Unfortunately, this all changes in our 30s when the realities of ageing are all too visible.

Dermalogica’s national training manager Diana van Sittert says: “After hitting 30 is where all the male ageing concerns start! Using incorrect shaving mediums, such as shaving foam that dehydrates the skin, eventually starts catching up with you, as the skin is not as able to protect itself. The skin needs more hydration after 30 and if the incorrect shaving mediums are not addressed, the skin starts showing the signs of premature ageing.”

So what’s the solution? “Stop using shaving mediums that leave you with a tight feeling immediately. Use an oil- or gel-based medium with skin hydration and protection benefits,” Diana says.

MEN CAN USE THEIR PARTNER’S HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
To quote most men: “I use whatever the wife buys.” Besides delegating the adventure of the male grooming world to the woman in your life, there are some things you need to know, according to award-winning hairstylist Arion Bezuidenhout.

“Professional male haircare products are jam-packed with active ingredients, fragrances and amino acids to suit your hair and scalp environment. Hair technology for men is different to women. As we have bigger pores, sweat glands and more testosterone, we secrete more sebum. Male haircare is therefore slightly stronger to help us manage the effects of these elements,” he says.

ALWAYS SHAVE AGAINST THE GRAIN
A lot of us still get this one wrong, with painful and unsightly results. You should always shave with the grain. “Shaving against the grain can cause in-grown hairs, razor burn, risk of cutting raised follicles, etc. If you want a closer shave, first shave with the grain, rinse, lather up again and then shave across the grain,” says Glen Summers, Sorbet Man’s educator and training manager.

APPLY YOUR FRAGRANCE BY WALKING THROUGH A SPRAYED MIST
This is a great way to watch your hard-earned cash literally fall to the ground. The best way to apply a fragrance is on your pulse points, that is, your lower jaw, neck, shoulders, chest, inner elbows, wrists, forearms and inner elbows. These pulse points are the warmest parts of your body and the heat will activate the fragrance. Choose two of these pulse points when applying your fragrance. Less is more. Trust me.

A FANCY TOOTHBRUSH WORKS BEST
It’s not what you brush your teeth with, it’s how you brush your teeth, so any toothbrush works, says my trusted oral hygienist. “It’s the action of the toothbrush that removes the sticky plaque. Your teeth have four surfaces – outside, inside, left and right – so make sure you clean all of these.” Plus you only need a pea-size amount of toothpaste, not a whole tube, to help do the job.

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5 OF THE BEST FRAGRANCES OF 2016

This year has been another whirlwind of new fragrance launches and personally I get a kick out of trying as many of the latest products as possible. But when it comes to the all-important purchase for yourself or as a gift, how do you tell (and smell) the oh-so-good from the so-so?

These five fragrances stood out from the crowded counters for me:

BENTLEY INFINITE RUSH EDT

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For a company that has only been in the fragrance game since 2013, Bentley keeps the quality coming. Bentley Infinite EDT and Bentley Infinite Intense EDP, both launched in 2015, were class acts and Infinite Rush is no exception. From the opening notes of pink peppercorn and mandarin orange to the dry-down of amber, vetiver and cedar, this is a fresh summer winner. Here’s hoping Bentley Infinite Rush White EDT will be launched in SA too.

R895 for 60ml and R1 195 for 100ml at Dis-Chem and Truworths stores.

DUNHILL ICON ELITE EDP

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If 2015’s Icon Absolute was Dunhill’s contribution to the fashionable oud genre, Icon Elite sees the British brand firmly back in classic territory with this deliciously woody and spicy composition that’s big on sandalwood, cardamom, vetiver, ebony wood and black suede notes. This EDP is grown-up stuff, so if you want something “shouty”, best look elsewhere. It’s the perfect scent from the office to evening cocktails.

R995 for 30ml, R1 095 for 50ml and R1 595 for 100ml at Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars, Foschini, Markham, Red Square and Truworths stores.

L’HOMME PRADA EDT

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Not everyone will “get” the powerful powdery iris note in this Prada fragrance, but that’s what makes this EDT so special. That and the amber, geranium and patchouli. Just like Prada’s previous big fragrance release for men, Lunna Rossa Sport, this one is under-rated and deserves a little more time to reveal its charms. From the box to the bottle, the packaging is seriously sophisticated too.

R1 060 for 50ml and R1 485 for 100ml from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords and Woolworths stores.

ARMANI CODE PROFUMO EDP

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Disclaimer: Generally, I am not a fan of sweeter scents, but I will make an exception for this recent addition to the Armani Code line. This EDP opens with a quick flourish of green apple and cardamom before settling into a warm, sensual and cosy (never thought I would use that adjective to describe a Giorgio Armani) rendition of tonka bean, amber and leather. Bellissimo!

30ml for R819, 60ml for R1 306 and R1 630 for 110ml from Edgars, Red Square, Stuttafords, Foschini, Woolworths and Truworths stores.

 VALENTINO UOMO INTENSE EDP

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Valentino Uomo was one of my favourites when it was released in South Africa in 2015 – and the intense version is perfume perfection to me. Yes, there’s a luxurious leather vibe here, but it’s mixed oh so seductively with iris, tonka bean, vanilla and clary sage to make this so more than a one-trick wonder. The studded grey bottle is also gorgeous. Excuse me, while I sniff myself again and again. Mmm….

R1 210 for 50ml and R1 510 for 100ml from Edgars, Red Square, Truworths, Foschini and Woolworths stores.