FRAGRANCE Archives - Page 19 of 23

July 6, 2018

Bumper Mid-Year Fragrance Edition: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP, Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT, Alaia EDP Nude, Bentley Momentum EDT, Lanvin Modern Princess EDP And More Reviews

I clearly have been in a hoarding/procrastinating mood for the last few months. I have accumulated a number of fragrance reviews. It’s July 2018 already, so best I get going. There’s quite a mix of fragrance reviews here, if I can say so myself, from teen surfer scent to way-out floral . Where known, I have provided the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

“Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched.”

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)

Acqua di Gio has been a huge success for Armani, so there’s much expectation (and consternation) when a new flanker is launched. First of all let’s get the obvious out of the way. This is still a fresh-ish aquatic-style fragrance, but this time it’s all about the interplay of water and wood. There’s also a fruity vibe upfront. Patchouli is also a major element of the fragrance (apparently it was exclusively and ethically sourced from Guatemala). This patchouli note balances the aquatic and woody nature of this EDT with a sensual aspect. So what does this all mean? Acqua di Gio Absolu may not be an immediate winner like its predecessors, but its refined elegance makes it well worth sniffing out. R990 for 40ml, R1 420 for 75ml and R1 810 for 125ml.

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)

Those Alien flankers keep on coming and somehow manage to offer something different and worthwhile each time. Mugler Alien Futura is a fresher and subtler (for Mugler) take on the exotic theme. There’s citrus-y Buddha’s hand in the opening and night-blooming cereus (a cactus flower that blooms once a year at night) for a full-blown heart of intrigue. Irresistible, in that typically Mugler way. R755 for 30ml and R995 for 60ml.

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)

From the opening pink lady apple and redcurrant notes, through to the heart notes of freesia and jasmine notes, this Modern Princess sure is sweet. Ok, so too sweet for my liking, but then I am definitely not this EDT’s target market of younger women. If you like your fruity florals young, juicy ‘n sweet, come and get it. R595 for 30ml, R795 for 60ml and R995 for 90ml.

Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)

This oriental floral is the fourth fragrance from Alaia and so far I like what I am smelling. It has become my latest favourite bedtime scent. Not because of its name. But because it’s so comfortable, smooth and subtle. Cedar, cashmeran, orange blossom, tonka bean, musk and leather have been given the creamy ‘n dreamy treatment. R880 for 30ml, R1 320 for 50ml and R1 910 for 100ml.

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)

Hollister fragrances are all about the Californian lifestyle of sun, sea and surfing. This EDT has an intriguing list of notes, including lime caviar, ginger, pink pepper, silver algae, white iris, oakmoss, driftwood, salted amber and smooth amberwood. While I can’t pick up most of these notes (and I have worn this one several times), I do get a fresh and youthful aquatic vibe, with a tinge of salt. It’s a good choice for your younger brother, who’s just starting his fragrance adventures. R725 for 100ml.

Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Regular readers of my blog will know that I am a fan of Bentley fragrances. They offer surprisingly affordable quality and are made by top perfumers such as Nathalie Lorson. A woody aromatic, this EDT has a bit of an old-school fresh vibe opening (that’s not a bad thing), with bergamot, green violet and clary sage top notes. By the time, the base notes (sandalwood, tonka bean, moss and musks) kick in, it has evolved into something altogether more sensual. R1 245 for 100ml.

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, Sonia Constant, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege le Garlantezec)

There’s no stopping the fruity-florals trend. This EDT is a youthful and fresh take on the theme, with notes of blackcurrant, rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley, plum and a musk drydown featuring prominently. Thankfully, it avoids the sugar overload of the genre. R710 for 30ml, R910 for 50ml and R1 110 for 90ml.

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme

What Yardley Bond St fragrances lack in originality, they compensate with their budget-friendliness. The latest in the range is a straight-up masculine scent, with notes of pear, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, orange blossom, incense and amberwood creating a perfectly pleasant fruity, woody and spicy package. Longevity is not the best, but at the price, spray, spray away. R399.95 for 100ml.

June 23, 2018

Sonia Constant Interview: How She’s Making Her Mark In The Fragrance Industry

As is often the case with perfumers and their creations, I started enjoying the fragrances created by Sonia Constant before I knew she was the creative force behind them.

One of those fragrances would be Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc EDP, with its lush take on rose and musk, which she co-created with Calice Becker. Another would be the sensual overload of Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Sonia Constant also created Noir Pour Femme EDP, Ombre Leather 16 EDP and Orchid Soleil EDP for Tom Ford. And let’s not forget Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT. With its sophisticated spicy, woody and musk facets, it’s one of the best men’s designer fragrances in recent years, methinks.

Sonia Constant studied perfumery at the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, the school founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in Versailles. She did her training at Givaudan and has worked for the company since then.

The first fragrance she created, s.Oliver Sport 1 Female, was launched in 2006. Since then she has notched up an impressive list of achievements. Some of her fragrance highlights include: Coach EDT, Fragonard Etoile EDT, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiare Mimosa EDT, Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Yellow EDT, Lanvin Eclat d’Arpege Pour Homme EDT, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis EDP, Montblanc Emblem EDT, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT and Valentino Donna Noir Absolu EDP.

Sonia Constant - Coach EDT — COACH CLASS: Created by Sonia Constant, Coach EDT was launched in 2016.

When the EDP version of Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir was recently launched in South Africa, I was fortunate enough to bag an email interview with Sonia Constant. This is what she had to say.

What’s your earliest perfume memory?

The smell of my mother.

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

When I discovered it was a job! Before that I wanted to become a fashion designer or an architect. I also wanted to become a ballet dancer when I was a child.

“It’s important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.”

What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?

That you learn something every day. You never stop learning in this job, as logic doesn’t apply in perfumery. Also that it takes a lot of work to find the right balance and the perfect aesthetic. It’s also important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.

Sonia Constant - Montblanc Lady Emblem L'Eau EDT — SPARKLING: Launched in 2017, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT is one of many fragrances created by Sonia Constant.

How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?

I think, as a creator, it is important to create the trend. I am not a follower, but more of a trendsetter. Sometimes, though, it is better and easier to follow trends, as the consumer is by nature reluctant to smell new things.

You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?

We wanted to create a stronger, but fresher version – a technical challenge! I added some clary sage and made the fragrance more fluid, more watery, in a long-lasting freshness. The wood is more vibrant and gives more verticality to the fragrance. It’s also more ambery, with some cistus facets. I brought a new quality of citrus on top of the fragrance and played with our new extraordinary Integrale Bergamote ORPUR.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP — NATURAL ELEGANCE: Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP has a fresher quality than Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT.

I wanted to create a male fragrance that’s irresistible, but not following trends. Nothing fruity, gourmand or fougère. Just a very elegant woody-spicy-citrus fragrance using the best natural components.

How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?

One year.

This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?

I love Mr Rodriguez very much. He’s so talented and it’s an honour for me to work for him. He takes part in the development of the fragrances and has a very clear vison. A Narciso Rodriguez fragrance has a very distinctive signature – musk is very important. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are very different from other perfumes, because they are completely off trend. I love the dresses he designs because of the way they are cut. Simple and elegant. His dresses are intemporelle, like his fragrances.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez — IMAGE OF NARCISO RODRIGUEZ COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.

How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes?

Mr Rodriguez smells the fragrance several times during development, but not at all stages of development. I also work very closely with the Shiseido team, who know his taste perfectly. Mr Rodriguez is very consistent in what he likes.

“I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories.”

What’s next for Sonia Constant?

I have just signed Santal Musc EDP and Narciso Rouge EDP for Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino Donna Rosa Verde EDT and Cerruti 1881 Essentiel EDT. I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories. They are an ode to adventure in all its forms, capturing fleeting moments. Ella K is about looking at the world in a new way.

Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP, R1 115 for 50ml and R1 345 for 100ml. Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP, R2 380 for 100ml.

June 1, 2018

Arbour Café Rendezvous, With A Side Order Of Terre d’Hermes Parfum

I was recently invited to eat a meal at Arbour Café, a French-style cafe in Birdhaven, a wealthy Johannesburg suburb. I am usually weary of French-inspired restaurants, as all too often they lapse into tweeness and clichés. Non, merci beaucoup! However, in the name of open-mindedness, I put my misgivings aside and accepted the kind invitation. And besides I needed an outing to wear my Terre d’Hermes Parfum.

I arrived for my Arbour Café rendezvous for an early-ish brunch. While the street-facing side of the restaurant has its attractions, I chose to eat in the courtyard for a bit of air, sun and people-watching.

Arbour Café specialises in galettes (savoury French buckwheat pancakes) and crêpes (thinner pancakes usually served with sweeter fillings). There are plenty of other options on the menu for breakfast, dinner and lunch, including omelettes, salads, sandwiches and desserts.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum @ Arbour Cafe — TRES BIEN: Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg.

For my main meal, I chose the Galette with Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Capers, Cucumber, Dill Crème Fraîche and an Egg. Très bien! And the Decadent Nutella and Banana crêpes for dessert. C’est délicieux! Both were served by friendly and attentive staff in an amiable and comfortable environment that’s thankfully not precious at all.

ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

And what of my fragrance companion, Terre d’Hermes Parfum? A perfect choice, if I may so myself. Whenever I wear this fragrance I ask myself (rhetorically), “Has bitter orange ever opened a fragrance so magnificently?”

Yet there’s so more to Terre d’Hermes Parfum than its trademark citrus introduction. Its flint note adds an unusual and earthy mineral aspect, which evolves into an almost burnt treatment of oakmoss, woody and benzoin notes. Not for nothing is Terre d’Hermes Parfum regarded as one of perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterpieces.

While I was finishing my very pleasant meal in Arbour Café’s relaxing courtyard, a fellow diner walked by and swooned: “Oh! That must be Terre d’Hermes. I would recognize it anywhere.”

Arbour Café, corner Wrenrose Avenue and St Andrews Street, Birdhaven, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 788 4111. Email: info@arbourcafe.co.za. http://arbourcafe.co.za/

May 19, 2018May 23, 2018

Nathalie Lorson Interview: Exploring Beyond The Limits

In a perfume context, what could bring me more joy than wearing one of my all-time favourite fragrances, Lalique Encre Noire? Well, the thrill of interviewing the creator of that classic fragrance would come a darn close second. Who am I talking about? Master perfumer Nathalie Lorson, of course.

With a bit of crafty detective work, I managed to contact Nathalie Lorson by email. Very graciously and in between her numerous projects, she agreed to answer my questions by email.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire EDT — VERITABLE VETIVER: Launched in 2006, Lalique Encre Noire EDT has become a classic vetiver fragrance. It’s earthy, dark and dirty in all the right ways.

Please see below her answers. But first a quick-quick bio. Nathalie Lorson was born in Grasse, the heartland of perfumery. When she completed her perfume studies at Roure Perfumery School (now Givaudan), she worked for International Flavours & Fragrances. For the past 18 years, she has worked for Firmenich. With a career spanning more than 35 years, Nathalie Lorson has been a prolific perfumer, working across all genres, from designer and niche to celebrity fragrances.

Nathalie Lorson - Bentley Infinite EDT — VEHICLE OF EXPRESSION: Whenever people turn up their noses at automotive fragrances, I point them in the direction of Nathalie Lorson’s quality work for Bentley fragrances.

I won’t bore you with a long list of her 170+ creations (you can find that on Fragrantica). But this round-up of highlights will give you a good idea of her accomplishments and versatility. Dita Von Teese EDP. Dolce & Gabbana Sicily EDP. Giorgio Armani Cuir Noir EDP. Givenchy Gentleman EDT and EDP. Jil Sander Sensations EDT. Le Labo Poivre 23 London EDP. Mandarina Duck Pure Black EDT. Versace Versus Woman EDT. Yves Saint Laurent Opium and its various flankers. Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him!

Nathalie Lorson - Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT — VERSATILE: Nathalie Lorson has achieved success across all genres, including designer fragrances such as Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT.

Nathalie Lorson has also bagged several awards along the way. These include Perfumer of the Year in Italy and France (2015). This month (May 2018), she garnered the Best Fragrance of Artistic Perfumery award for Altaia Tuberose in Blue EDP by the Accademia del Profumo.

“Designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. Even today I feel like I am still learning.”

Why did you want to become a perfumer?

I spent my childhood in Grasse, where my father was working as a chemist in the fragrance industry [at Roure]. Naturally I wanted to follow my father’s path and started my perfumery studies in Grasse.

Nathalie Lorson — PORTRAITS OF NATHALIE LORSON COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?

Like a pianist playing his scales, I memorised during my studies a lot of scents and learned how to associate them together. Then, I focused on the aesthetic aspect of the composition, trying to find the best harmony between all ingredients, creating the most beautiful perfume. What stayed very fresh in my mind is that designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. It is an everyday learning. Even today I feel like I am still learning.

Is perfumery an art or a science for you?

As a perfumer, my main challenge lies in the art of translating emotions into addictions and to imagine the best harmony between the fragrance and the person who will wear it. More than a science, by mixing art and technique, perfumery is recognised as craftsmanship. I like to compare myself to a gold digger, seeking nuggets. We find lots of dust, but very few nuggets.

What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?

My first creation in fine fragrance was a fresh floral perfume, Romeo for Romeo Gigli, in the late 80s.

How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?

Discussions with inspiring people are critical – they bring to life the ideas behind the scent. My inspiration comes from everything around me: new raw materials, a surprising combination of new scents, a colour. Most importantly, the brand universe will influence the final shape of the fragrance. Always behind the scenes, I translate the brand history into an olfactory tale. Personally, I like to work with many different types of ingredients and explore them beyond their limits. I like the dynamism of switching from one project to another and juggling different ideas. I like to explore and discover.

One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?

Knowing that one of my creations became someone’s favourite scent is my greatest reward. The beautiful story of Lalique Encre Noire was written with the purest vetiver, one of my favourite raw materials. Encre Noire was subtly twisted into a modern woody blend, enhancing its noble character. Today it remains contemporary, yet timeless.

Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?

Of course, as I always remain curious about how my creations are perceived by experts, including the voice of the consumer. Critics also nourish my future works.

Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?

I do not have such plans at the moment. I feel fulfilled with all the exciting projects I am working on.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT — GOOD SPORT: Nathalie Lorson also created the superb Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT, pictured here, and Lalique Encre Noire à L’Extrême EDP.

April 28, 2018

From Cartier Declaration EDT To Cartier Declaration Parfum: 20 Years Of A Modern Classic

The fragrance industry is pretty shameless when it comes to hype and hubris. Although I try not to indulge in the worst of it, sometimes I am guilty of it, too. But with the recent release of Cartier Declaration Parfum, I can say with absolute certainty that Cartier Declaration EDT is a true modern classic. A classic in the sense that it added something very distinctive and special to perfumery at the time of its launch and that its influence is still felt to this day.

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Cartier Declaration EDT was launched in 1998. With its fresh, spicy, citrus, woody and aromatic layers, this fragrance defies easy classification. And that’s part of its complex beauty. It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks. Although officially a men’s fragrance, it’s one to be worn and enjoyed by women too.

Since 1998, several flankers have been added to the Cartier Declaration range. Created by in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, Cartier Declaration Parfum has been launched to celebrate the 20^th anniversary of this classic fragrance.

“It’s a supremely sophisticated scent that achieves that rare feat of smelling expensive without resorting to bling tricks.”

SO WHAT DOES CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

On first application, but only very briefly, I get the freshness (bitter orange note) of the original Cartier Declaration. And then there are powerful and seductive hits of leather and spice (cardamom, cumin notes). The base features standout notes of wood (cedar, amberwood) and vetiver. If this all sounds terrifically deep and smoky, that’s because it is.

Cartier Declaration EDT and Cartier Declaration Parfum — LEATHER REPORT: If I am going to do some product placement on my blog, then it better be something super. I took these pics of Cartier Declaration Parfum in the studio of the very talented leather craftsman Matthias Matthee. This work in progress is a customised backpack made from vintage black leather and with blanket stitching. Check him out on Instagram.

If I had to compare the two, I would say that the original has more of a sparkling quality, whereas Cartier Declaration Parfum goes into darker and denser territory. Cartier Declaration Parfum is a fitting tribute to the original, while still standing on its own merits.

Cartier Declaration Parfum, R1 230 for 50ml and R1 785 for 100ml.

April 21, 2018

Fragrance Shopping Irritations

I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY. Mostly, I get to experience this simple equation. However, there are certain situations that are guaranteed to rile me. Here are four of my top fragrance shopping irritations.

“I have very basic expectations of fragrance shopping. FRAGRANCE SHOPPING = BROWSING + DISCOVERY + JOY.”

What are your fragrance shopping irritations?

So many choices, but no testers to be seen, let alone smelt

A key part of the fragrance shopping journey is trying out new possibilities. This becomes impossible when there are no testers. A well-known (and struggling) clothing retailer in my local shopping centre has several walls’ worth of fragrances, but not a single tester. This has been the situation since the beginning of the year, when most of the testers were emptied in the Christmas shopping rush. Grrrrr!

Fragrance Shopping Irritations — A TESTING SITUATION: A good supply of testers is essential.

Being watched like I am a shoplifter

I know shoplifting is rife in South Africa, but there’s a fine line between discrete surveillance and downright stalking. I do a lot of my fragrance browsing before or after gym. Apart from a good fragrance, I’m very dress down for gym, which could explain some of the unwanted attention I receive. However, one of the basic tenets of making a sale is don’t judge a customer by what they wear.

Attention!

Between the extremes of too much, overly eager, intrusive attention and (I must be wearing my Harry Potter invisible cloak) non-existent attention lies a happy medium of knowing how to read your customer. While a fair amount of customer service can be taught, some things are intuitive.

Not knowing your merchandise

I don’t expect sales assistants to know if and when a particular fragrance has been reformulated (unless if I am being VERY demanding due to low sugar levels). But not knowing the basics of the product they are selling (for example, family, accords and brief brand history) is one of the big fragrance shopping irritations for me. Sharing your knowledge of and passion for the world of fragrance is sure to impress me.

April 14, 2018

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT, Elie Saab In White EDP, Coach Floral EDP, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum, Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Reviews

After an initially slow start to the year, the fragrance counters are starting to get busy with all sorts of new arrivals. We’ve got a pretty mixed bag here, with John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Elie Saab In White, Coach Floral EDP reviews. Are they worth getting out of bed for?

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

I am a big fan of Flores-Roux’s work for John Varvatos fragrances. There’s always an impressively long list of notes for John Varvatos fragrances and Artisan Pure is no different. Inspired by the lush Xalapa region of Mexico, it opens with a big punch of sunny citrus notes. Then there’s a herbal heart (with a standout Italian orris note) and woody base. It’s deliciously crisp summer freshness in a beautifully designed bottle. R1 225 for 75ml and R1 495 for 125ml.

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Pretty bottle. Pretty fragrance. While Coach Floral EDP isn’t going to be getting any awards for originality, it’s a very accessible and pleasant fragrance. Heart notes include tea rose, jasmine sambac and gardenia. R795 for 30ml, R1 190 for 50ml and R1 490 for 90ml.

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

I ain’t no blushing bride, but that doesn’t stop me from liking this wedding-inspired fruity-floral-chypre fragrance. It has a lovely creamy quality throughout, with notes that include mandarin essence, blackcurrant bud, jasmine sambac, orange blossom absolute, vanilla and ylang-ylang. R890 for 30ml, R1 410 for 50ml and R1 900 for 90ml.

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Okay, so strictly speaking this is not a new fragrance (Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! was originally launched in 2016). But this limited-edition collaboration with NYC tattoo artist Virginia Elwood is a good reminder why Zadig & Voltaire fragrances are worth sniffing out. Featuring notes of incense, vanilla, pepper and sandalwood, it’s an easy-going and very appealing take on the smoky, woody theme. R475 for 20ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

Previous fragrances in the L’Eau d’Issey Pure range have interpreted a drop of dew (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDP) and delicate petals (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT). The latest, Nectar de Parfum, is more floral in character. It ventures into sweet territory, with initial stand-out notes of pear, honey and rose. Hallelujah, it’s not the cloying variety and the aquatic element will be very familiar to Issey Miyake fragrance fans. R925 for 30ml, R1 430 for 50ml and R1 820 for 90ml.

March 31, 2018March 31, 2018

Black and Gold: Valentino Uomo Noir Absolu EDP, Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum…

Maybe it’s the luxurious elegance it evokes. And I could do with a lot of that when I am blogging in my not-so-glamorous PJs. Maybe it’s because the two colours work so well together. Whatever it is, I am giving this Easter weekend the black and gold treatment. These are some of the things I will be indulging in.

Valentino Uomo Noir Absolu EDP

The latest Valentino Uomo flanker is built around four notes: cinnamon, pepper, sandalwood and incense. After the amplified leather and iris of Valentino Uomo Intense, this EDP is all oriental woodiness. I get a slightly boozy opening, although nothing of the sort is listed. Then a very appealing smoky warmth kicks in. And the studded black and gold bottle is super tactile and sexy.

Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum

It’s been a stressful few weeks and my face is showing it. Time for some serious skincare in the form of Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum. Each capsule is packed with ceramides, botanicals and a retinol derivative. Together, these ingredients boost moisture levels and skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Candy Crush

As it’s Easter, I am allowing myself to indulge in candy and chocolate guilt-free. The fact that they also help me to stay off the cigs is another reason to tuck in.

Artistic Inspiration

How beautiful are these etchings from the Folio edition of Ulysses. OK, so I haven’t read James Joyce’s notoriously difficult-to-read novel, but I am going to take some inspiration from Mimmo Paladino’s etchings. They were first published in a limited edition in 1994.

I am quite realistic about my artistic abilities – I struggle to sketch a stick man – but that’s not the point. If I allow myself to just get on with it, without the critical editor in charge, it’s always fun and even therapeutic.

January 20, 2018

Going, going, gone… Editing The Fragrance Collection

There comes a time in any fragrance lover’s life when you have to face a harsh reality. You’ve run out of space for your ever-expanding fragrance collection. Again. So much for the several storage expansions. It’s time to start thinking about editing the fragrance collection.

The undeniable truth: I had to accept the that I had run out of space for my lovelies. I could not continue just colonising other shelves occupied by my father’s beloved books.

“I could not continue just colonising other shelves occupied by my father’s beloved books.”

GIVE ME SPACE: What should stay? What should go?

.I had to decide what should stay and what should go. Pronto! In that spirit, I was going to call this post “Culling the fragrance collection”, but that sounded cruel and callous, albeit necessary. So I settled for the more rational and measured “editing”.

Fortunately, this realisation occurred in the run-up to Christmas so I decided editing the fragrance collection should have an altruistic spin, too. That is, the perfumes I no longer wanted would now become gifts.

EDITING THE FRAGRANCE COLLECTION: QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS

Editing the fragrance collection wasn’t as easy as it sounds. But I found asking myself these questions below helped me immensely in the decision-making process. I hope they will help you, too, if you’re ever in a similar situation.

Why do I have this particular fragrance?

Does it bring me joy?

Or is it just one of many “nice” fragrances?

Does this fragrance have any special associations or memories for me?

When was the last time I actually wore this fragrance?

Why have I not worn it for ages?

Will this fragrance bring more joy to someone else rather than just gathering dust in my collection?

Will I really notice if this fragrance is no longer in my collection? That is, will I lose sleep over it?

While I am in the editing mode, do I have a sufficient mix of fragrances in my collection, in terms of everyday vs special occasion, fragrance families, etc?

Please let me know how you go about reducing the size of your fragrance collection.

December 22, 2017December 23, 2017

Fragrance Shopping In Johannesburg: Skins Cosmetics, Luminance, Dis-Chem Bedford Centre

This post has been on my must-do list for several months since the opening of the Dutch niche brands retailer, Skins Cosmetics, in Johannesburg. As I am a bit of a Christmas Grinch, I didn’t want this post to be specifically about Christmas gifting (naff!). This is not a comprehensive list of all the fragrance shopping options in the city, but it’s a start for locals and visitors alike. I will update it over the course of 2018, with other South African cities to follow, too.

Suffice to say, fragrance shopping in Johannesburg is an increasingly mixed bag. While designer fragrances still dominate the scene, niche fragrances are at last getting the attention they deserve in the economic capital of South Africa.

Fragrance Shopping In Johannesburg - Penhaligon's Much About The Duke — PERFUME PORTRAITS: Penhaligon’s Much Ado About The Duke is one of the niche fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics. You can read my review of this EDP here: https://fragroom.com/2017/09/08/niche-fragrances/

We’ll start in the northern suburbs of Johannesburg. As this is the wealthy part of the city, most of the fragrance shopping is to be found here, particularly in shopping malls. Oh, we do love our malls in Johannesburg!

Luminance

Don’t be put off by the intimidating shop front. Once inside this store, you will find top perfume brands among the designer clothing, including Tom Ford, Armani Privé, Frédéric’ Malle, Comme des Garçons and Diptyque. As far as I know this is the only place in South Africa that stocks the venerable Santa Maria Novella range, since the dedicated store closed in Cape Town. These fragrances caught my eye and nose during my most recent Luminance visit.

Frédéric’ Malle Carnal Flower

An exceptional take on tuberose (and other white florals) from Dominique Ropion that casts a sensual (but never suffocating) spell. It also features an utterly gorgeous coconut note.

Comme des Garçons Black EDT

A smoky (almost burnt) composition that intrigues from start to finish. Black pepper, incense, olibanum, leather, liquorice, pepperwood and vetiver are among the stand-out notes.

Armani Privé Rose d’Arabie EDP

Damask rose, oud, patchouli and vanilla get the Middle East treatment. Even if oriental perfumes are not your thing, this top-notch scent is one to be explored and adored.

Luminance, Hyde Park Corner, William Nicol Drive, Hyde Park, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 325 4765. https://www.luminanceonline.com

Skins Cosmetics

The Dutch niche brands retailer is the newest addition to the Johannesburg fragrance shopping scene. It stocks an impressive selection of heritage and experimental brands. With 36 fragrance brands, it’s easy to get greedy here (guilty as charged).

You’ll find the following fragrance brands here: Abel, Aether, Antonia’s Flowers, Atelier Cologne, Boellis, By Kilian, Comme des Garçons, D.S. & Durga, Diptyque, E. Coudray, Escentric Molecules, Ex Nihilo, Floris, Frédéric’ Malle, Heeley Parfums, Keiko Mecheri, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Le Labo, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Memo, Nasomatto, Nomenclature, Orto Parisi, Penhaligon’s, Sabé Masson, Terry de Gunzburg, 27 87 Perfumes, Vilhelm Parfumerie, Widian and Yvra 1958. Roja Dove recently arrived in the store, so even more choices, choices…

“The staff are very helpful and enthusiastic. For serious buyers a personal consultation, refreshments and a generous supply of samples are part of the package.”

The staff are very helpful and enthusiastic. For serious buyers a personal consultation, refreshments and a generous supply of samples are part of the package. It’s also home to a variety of niche beauty and homeware brands, including Marie-Stella-Maris, Algenist, Eve Lom, Fornasetti, MenScience, Molton Brown, Susanne Kaufmann and Verso.

With so many brands to explore, Skins Cosmetics demands several visits. These are just some of the fragrances I sniffed out during my expedition earlier this month.

Floris Patchouli EDP

Hmmm… Curious! Although whisky is not an officially listed note, the opening is drenched in it. When the whisky runs dry, notes of coconut milk, iris, patchouli, cedar, amber and myrrh come to the fore.

Widian Delma EDP

A soft floral (jasmine, freesia, geranium) and spicy (nutmeg) scent from this Abu Dhabi perfume house founded by Ali Aljaberi. Although on the sweeter side (peach and marshmallow notes alert!), it’s surprisingly subtle.

Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi EDP By Kilian

I tried this one because of its ooh-la-la name and seductive notes (ylang-ylang, tuberose, Bulgarian rose, gardenia, sandalwood, cedar). While it doesn’t quite live up to the promise of it name, it’s still a well-executed Alberto Morillas creation.

Orto Parisi Brutus EDP

Perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri turns up the ante with three notes – bergamot, mandarin orange and patchouli. It’s potent, statement-making stuff.

Nasomatto Absinth Extrait De Parfum

Another Alessandro Gualtieri creation. Deliciously deep and earthy, with wormwood, vetiver and green notes, it’s one of those love-or-hate fragrances. Either way, you’ve got to admire its chutzpah.

Skins Cosmetics, Sandton City, 163 5th Street, Shop U80, Upper Level, Sandton, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 883 1350. https://www.skins.co.za

Dis-Chem Bedford Centre

Let’s not forget mass market retailers for fragrance shopping in Johannesburg. This branch of the nationwide pharmacy chain is my local spot where I go for a catch-up on all the new designer fragrance releases. What I like most about this store is the friendliness and knowledge of the staff. They actually want your business and don’t treat you like a potential shoplifter if you’re just browsing!

Dis-Chem, Bedford Centre, G6 & G7, Bedford Gardens, Bedfordview. Tel: 011 417 2600. http://dischem.co.za/storefinder/164

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP (Alberto Morillas)

Mugler Alien Flora Futura EDT (Dominique Ropion and Jean-Christophe Hérault)

Lanvin Modern Princess EDP (Christophe Raynaud)

Alaia EDP Nude (Marie Salamagne)

Hollister Free Wave For Him EDT (Gino Percontino)

Bentley Momentum EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, Sonia Constant, Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadege le Garlantezec)

Yardley Bond St No 8 EDP Pour Homme

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What’s your earliest perfume memory?

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?

How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?

You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?

How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?

This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?

How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes?

What’s next for Sonia Constant?

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ALSO ON LE MENU: TERRE D’HERMES PARFUM

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Why did you want to become a perfumer?

What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?

Is perfumery an art or a science for you?

What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?

How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?

One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?

Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?

Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?

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SO WHAT DOES CARTIER DECLARATION PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

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So many choices, but no testers to be seen, let alone smelt

Being watched like I am a shoplifter

Attention!

Not knowing your merchandise

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John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

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Valentino Uomo Noir Absolu EDP

Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum

Candy Crush

Artistic Inspiration

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EDITING THE FRAGRANCE COLLECTION: QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS

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Luminance

Frédéric’ Malle Carnal Flower

Comme des Garçons Black EDT

Armani Privé Rose d’Arabie EDP

Skins Cosmetics

Floris Patchouli EDP

Widian Delma EDP

Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi EDP By Kilian

Orto Parisi Brutus EDP

Nasomatto Absinth Extrait De Parfum

Dis-Chem Bedford Centre

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