FRAGRANCE Archives - Page 18 of 23

November 14, 2018November 14, 2018

Celebrity Fragrances: Of Perfumes, Preferences & Prejudices

Celebrity fragrances ain’t what they used to be. The category has been in steady decline for several years. According to Women’s Marketing, sales of celebrity scents in the US crashed from $150 million in 2011 to just over $50 million in 2014. In the UK, according to Cosmetics Business, sales of celebrity fragrances plummeted 22% from £56.5m in 2015 to £44.2m in 2016. Despite the grim figures, the business model for this sector is quick-in, quick-out. So new scents are still being launched.

Would you wear celebrity fragrances? Such a simple questions can provoke a flurry of reactions ranging from the downright “Never, too common!” and “Yeuch, too tacky!”, to the more measured, “Yes, great value for money” and, “Of course, they are sometimes created by top perfumers”.

Speaking for myself, I know that my decision to wear a particular celeb’s fragrance was sometimes partly based on my pre-existing ideas about that star. Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture? So Kim Kardashian would have got a big fat “No!” from me.

Celebrity Fragrances - Adam Levine For Him EDT — THE VOICE OF REASON: But do I like you, Adam?

So I decided to put my prejudices and preferences to the test by wearing several celebrity fragrances created for a variety of stars. The results were, to say the least, revealing.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance. Interestingly, quite of a few of these celebrity fragrances don’t have a listed perfumer. Perhaps to create the illusion that the celeb concerned created it?

“Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture?”

Adam Levine For Him EDT (Yann Vasnier)

What I was expecting from the rock musician: A middle-of-the-road scent featuring an inoffensive rock ‘n roll sensibility, with hints of darn-I’m-so-sexy smugness.

What I got: A huge (and surprising blast) of guava from start to finish that completely dominates all of the other listed notes. This is classic love-it-or-hate-it-stuff that stays put for hours. Depending on your reaction, this is a very good or very bad thing.

R495 for 30ml and R695 for 50ml.

Britney Spears VIP Private Show

What I was expecting from the seen-it-all pop star: Kinda sweet, kinda trashy (in a good way), kinda fun, kinda young.
What I got: With all that initial sweetness, the equivalent of an olfactory filling, courtesy of blood orange, mango nectar and red apple notes. However, the pleasant dry-down of raspberry wood, golden amber and velvet musk brought me to my senses. I have to admit I even found myself thinking, “What’s that nice smell”, after the initial onslaught had thankfully subsided.

R585.00 for 50ml.

Gold Jay Z (Illias Ermenidis)

What I was expecting from the hip-hop mogul: Bling-meets-street cred, loud and proud.
What I got: An unexpectedly sophisticated, albeit sweet, scent that features a very agreeable pink pepper note front and centre. Other discernible notes in the eclectic mix include: blueberry, violet leaf, vanilla, cardamom, lavender and grapefruit. It’s good to be wrong (sometimes).

R620 for 90ml.

Pitbull Man EDT

What I was expecting from the Latino hit machine (or, more accurately, what I was hoping for): A hot number infused with the passions and rhythms of Cuban Miami.
What I got: A fairly standard woody-aromatic vibe, with notes of woods, cardamom, sage, violet and tonka, lending a familiar-ish (and strangely bitter) vibe. Sorry, Armando Christian Perez, a lost opportunity. Congrats, though, on the solid and slick bottle design.

R620 for 100ml.

Nude by Rihanna EDP

What I was expecting from the R&B superstar: Something provocative, sexy, perhaps even raunchy.
What I got: Featuring notes of guava, pear, gardenia, sambac jasmine and orange blossom, it’s a pretty fruity-floral that’s very much in tune with current trends. If Fenty wanted to show her softer, sweeter side, this is a case of mission accomplished. It’s a quick fader, though, which is not something I would associate with the Bajan.

R620 for 100ml.

Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

What I was expecting from the seductor Spaniard actor: I’d – shameless self-promotion alert – interviewed the man before (read here) and was familiar with several of his fragrances. So I had a head-start compared to the other celeb fragrances I’ve covered in this post. I won’t go into that here.
What I got: He’s been in the biz of seduction for 20 years and is one of Puig’s big money-spinners. So Banderas knows what will have commercial and relatively enduring appeal. Power of Seduction, his latest fragrance, opens with a fresh ’n fruity blast of bergamot and apple notes. It then morphs into an aromatic focus, with notes of lavender and sage. There’s also a big patchouli note lurking in here. While this typically masculine fragrance won’t be winning any awards for originality, it’s undeniably good quality at the price.

R505 for 50ml and R630 for 100ml.

CHRISTINA AGUILERA GLAM X EDP

What I was expecting from the American singer: Considering the name of this fragrance, it would have to be lashings of grown-up glamour.
What I got: The caramelised peach note opening doesn’t make for a very glam start. But things pick up when the floral aspect – freesia, lily of the valley, heliotrope and jasmine – slinks in. The base is all warm and cosy with notes of musk, amber and sandalwood. This is a nice-enough fragrance, but doesn’t push the glam-o-meter sufficiently to warrant its name.

236ml fine fragrance mist for R199, 30ml for R299 and 60ml for R429.

November 9, 2018

Les Eaux de Chanel Review: Paris-Biarritz EDT and Paris-Venise EDT

I’m normally very immune to hype (me a jaded journalist?), but I do make an exception for Chanel fragrance launches. Partly because the French luxury company is so darn good at hype. But more importantly, because Chanel continues to release fragrances that are worthy of our attention and wallets. I first started hearing the hype about Chanel’s new collection, Les Eaux de Chanel, about five months ago when it was launched internationally. And more recently that hype gathered momentum when it was released in South Africa.

To get straight to the point, I had to have it! I was thrilled when I received two of the three fragrances from the range, Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise. I haven’t smelled Paris-Deauville yet, so this review will focus on the other two.

Before I go into that specifically, here’s some essential info on this collection created by Olivier Polge. Chanel’s in-house perfumer took his initial inspiration from three destinations that featured prominently in Madamoiselle’s remarkable life: Biarritz, Venise and Deauville.

These are where Chanel launched her first collection in her shop; where she journeyed after the death of her beloved Boy Capel; and the Basque resort town where she opened another shop, respectively.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville — STYLE STORE: Chanel in front of her Deauville shop in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

While these locations were the starting point for Polge, none of the fragrances are meant to be about these places per se. Instead, he wanted the EDTs to be all about the idea of travel and the possibilities that accompany it.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Coco Chanel in Venice — SUN GODDESS: Chanel at Villa Maatena, Venice, in 1924. Image courtesy of Chanel.

So what do Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Venise smell like?

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

It opens with a superb citrus character (notes of grapefruit and mandarin). This is supported by an aquatic note, apparently – truth be told, I don’t pick that up. It doesn’t really matter, though, as the lily-of-the-valley accord puts any of my quibbles in their place pronto. What follows next is a seductive blend of vetiver and white musk notes. The overall effect is one of fresh crispness that sees me smelling my wrists longingly after applying it there.

R2 070 for 125ml.

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

Featuring a definite oriental vibe, iris features prominently in the fragrance’s top notes, with a hint of neroli. Glorious stuff! Notes of red berry and Grasse geranium add to the immediate appeal. Cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka notes are also present, but in a subtle manner. While this EDT may be classified as a luxurious oriental fragrance, it’s a gentle take on the genre, not a full-on affair. It’s beautiful from start to finish.

R2 070 for 125ml.

In conclusion, I highly recommend both of these unisex fragrances. Yes, they are fairly light on my skin, but such objects of fleeting beauty are worth every cent. Now, all I need to do is get a whiff of Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Deauville asap.

I’ve included some more archive pics of Chanel below. Hope they will fascinate you too!

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Biarritz in 1928 — DRIVEN: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928. Image courtesy of Chanel.

October 24, 2018

5 Fragrance News Snippets: D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran, Jo Malone Huntsman Collection, Jeremy Fragrance Picks Alberto Morillas, Creed Aventus Cologne, Sophie Brocart The New MD Of Jean Patou

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection — Image: www.jomalone.co.uk

I’ve been wanting to launch a new series for a long time on my blog. Something that’s useful, but not too serious. Something that gives a quick overview of interesting things happening in the world of fragrance, without claiming to be a definitive guide. So here it is: The debut of the monthly Fragrance News Snippets on Fragroom.

Please let me know what you think of it. If you come across anything news-worthy, please forward to me (rpgoller@gmail.com) for consideration in future editions of Fragrance News Snippets .

D.S. & DURGA COLLABORATE WITH DURAN DURAN

How do you celebrate 40 years in the music biz? If you’re English pop band Duran Duran, you collaborate with the uber-cool D.S. & Durga, the New York-based niche perfume company. The result is a collection of four fragrances, D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran, inspired by songs released by the foursome over the decades. The perfume oils Hungry Like The Wolf, Come Undone, Skin Divers and You Kill Me With Silence are available exclusively from Liberty, London, in rollerball format for £75 each. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran — FINDING THEIR NICHE: The members of Duran Duran (John Taylor, Roger Taylor, Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes) with Kavi and David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.

JO MALONE PARTNERS WITH HUNTSMAN SAVILE ROW

Talking of collaborations… there’s been no shortage of standout Jo Malone fragrances for men over the years. But in a very smart move, the British fragrance brand has partnered with renowned tailors Huntsman Savile Row to produce a most gentlemanly collection. The four colognes feature enticing names (and combos) such as Amber & Patchouli, Assam & Grapefruit, Birch & Black Pepper and Whisky & Cedarwood. Original source for more info: read here.

JEREMY FRAGRANCE PICKS HIS PERFUMER

Fragrance reviewer Jeremy Fragrance has become something of a celebrity himself, with almost 600 000 followers across his various channels. So it was just a matter of time before the YouTube star launched his own fragrance range. The 29-year-old has chosen living legend Alberto Morillas (cK One, Cartier Panthere, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio, Mugler Cologne, Yves Saint Laurent M7) to create his fragrances. This must mean Jeremy Fragrance wants his perfumes to have: a) commercial appeal; b) critical success; and c) longevity. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets: Alberto Morillas and Jeremy Fragrance. — Image: Jeremy Fragrance Facebook

CREED AVENTUS GETS THE COLOGNE TREATMENT

Launched in 2010 by the French luxury fragrance company, Aventus EDP has developed a large cult following that borders on the religious. News that Creed plans to launch a cologne version of their best-seller has been met with much online excitement/exasperation. The prototype was on display earlier this month at the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes, France. No official launch date has been confirmed yet. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Creed Aventus Cologne — Image: Fragrantica

SOPHIE BROCARD TO HEAD UP JEAN PATOU

Following LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s recent acquisition of Jean Patou, Sophie Brocard has been announced as the new MD of the revered French fashion and perfume company. While Jean Patou has an impressive catalogue of fragrance classics, it hasn’t launched anything since 2016. Previously the CEO of luxury shoe brand Nicholas Kirkwood, Brocard will be responsible for re-establishing Jean Patou as a global luxury brand. No doubt, Jean Patou devotees will be watching her closely. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Jean Patou Joy EDP — Image: www.amazon.com

Is there anything in particular you’d you’d like to read in Fragroom’s Fragrance News Snippets? Please let me know.

October 19, 2018October 26, 2018

Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP — IMAGE COURTESY OF FRAGRANTICA.COM

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!

October 12, 2018

The Comfort of Smells

I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.

The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.

October 5, 2018

THE BUMPER CATCH-UP REVIEWS EDITION: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT, Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense, Cacharel Yes I Am EDP, Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP, Jimmy Choo Fever EDP, Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches.

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP Review — FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.

September 22, 2018

After Hours: Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP, Bentley For Men Absolute EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Noir Argent EDP, Jacques Bogart Silver Scent Midnight EDT Reviews

September 2, 2018

You, Me And D&G Light Blue By The Sea

Levels of work pressure and stress were particularly high recently. So when an ex-GF from many lifetimes ago invited me to join her at her apartment on the coast for five days, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. I last had a getaway about a year ago with my father and sister (read here), so the need to escape was über urgent. Besides, it was the perfect excuse to bring along some fragrant friends, including Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT. Not to mention a whole slew of other fragrance finds for photographic purposes.

The destination? La Mercy on South Africa’s east coast in the province of KwaZulu-Natal (see map below). La Mercy is a pretty insignificant village, apart from its location near King Shaka International Airport. The economic hub of Durban is 35km away and it’s situated half between the increasingly built-up towns of Umhlanga and Ballito. This lack of an urban buzz suited me just fine.

The ride down on the Friday was uneventful – and long. Respect to my dear friend, who must be the most traffic-law abiding citizen in South Africa. She didn’t drive faster than the speed limit once, much to my impatience. We arrived at night, so my first view of the sea in years would have to wait till the morning. See below. But the sound of the Indian Ocean pounding away that night was therapeutic enough.

The next day, before I could slip into lazy mode, I first had to fulfill my duties as my friend’s plus one at a wedding of her close friend from our clubbing days. The nuptials were a charmingly casual affair, complete with barefoot ceremony in a sandpit. While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code (Sarongs? Swimwear? Shorts?), I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (La Mercy) — BEACHY DRESS CODE: Looking for inspiration.

“While we both struggled with the “beachy” dress code, I had no hesitation choosing my wedding fragrance.”

Created by Carlos Benaïm, Frederic Malle Music For A While has been my most complimented fragrance for a long time. Can’t say I am surprised, as this EDP opens with a beautiful bouquet of lavender, supported by citrus and anise notes. There’s an assortment of sweet notes, including pineapple, sugar, caramel and fruit. Sounds overpowering, but the master perfumer keeps it light and airy. And the patchouli base tempers the effect.

The next four days were just what I needed. Lots of horizontal time in bed, interspersed with walks down to the sea and along the beach. After all, the beach was less than 100 metres from entrance of the apartment complex. These strolls yielded soothing, salty breezes and time to clear the mind. August is a winter month in South Africa, with temperatures hovering below 20°C, so I was very content to have seemingly kilometres of beach mostly to myself.

Even in this relative solitude on the beach, I found many signs of humanity. The worst, of course, being plastic pollution. The best being this relic from a recent religious ceremony. I have always had a thing for religious iconography, so it brought a smile to my face. And while I was tempted to take it with me, my better judgement said leave as is.

And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?

I deliberately brought these with me, as both are justifiably considered modern summer fragrance classics. I got to experience them, though, in a completely different context, sans Mediterranean Sea, blistering heat and David Gandy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT was created by top perfumer Olivier Cresp (read my interview with him here) and launched in 2001. It’s a great example of how to create a fruity floral with a fresh citrus twist, without assaulting its wearer and everyone else in its immediate vicinity with its presence. Stand-out notes in this EDT include Sicilian cedar, apple, bamboo, jasmine and musk. Fresh and sensual at the same time, little wonder it was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

Its compagno, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT (launched in 2007), has a similar effect, but with a citrus aromatic profile. Which means splashes of bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, grapefruit and juniper in the opening. After that, I can pick up a strong sprinkling of Sichuan pepper, with hints of musk and incense towards the end. It’s an uncomplicated, uplifting scent and so easy to wear.

August 12, 2018

Interview with Olivier Cresp, 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award Winner

One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.

When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.

This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).

Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.

“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).

More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).

Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects.

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT — TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT — MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today.

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel — GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.

“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, Perfumer & Flavorist, Penhaligons.com

July 15, 2018

Bleu de Chanel Parfum Review

I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.

Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.

Bleu de Chanel - Olivier Polge — A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.

SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.

According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.

“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”

However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.

The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.

Adam Levine For Him EDT (Yann Vasnier)

Britney Spears VIP Private Show

Gold Jay Z (Illias Ermenidis)

Pitbull Man EDT

Nude by Rihanna EDP

Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

CHRISTINA AGUILERA GLAM X EDP

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LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

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D.S. & DURGA COLLABORATE WITH DURAN DURAN

JO MALONE PARTNERS WITH HUNTSMAN SAVILE ROW

JEREMY FRAGRANCE PICKS HIS PERFUMER

CREED AVENTUS GETS THE COLOGNE TREATMENT

SOPHIE BROCARD TO HEAD UP JEAN PATOU

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What fragrance are you wearing today?

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

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Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

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And what about my fragrant Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue friends?

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STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

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SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

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