5 Fragrance News Snippets: Dior J’Adore Absolu Takes A Dip, Sexiest Fragrances for Men and Women, Interparfum’s Good Times, Huda Kattan’s New Fragrance Range, Dollar Club’s Glide Into Fragrance

Fragrance News Snippets - Sexiest Fragrances - YSL Black Opium EDP

Following the good response I’ve received for the first edition of Fragrance New Snippets, here’s the second edition. If you come across anything news-worthy for Fragrance News Snippets, please forward to me for consideration (rpgoller@gmail.com).

Fragrance News Snippets - Sexiest Fragrances - Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP

DIOR TAKES A DIP FOR J’ADORE ABSOLU

Although this is over a month old, it’s too big to ignore for Fragrance News Snippets. I’m talking about Dior’s mega-production directed by Romain Gavras for J’Adore Absolu EDP, after weeks of social media, um, teasers. This commercial, apologies, film, features Charlize Theron in a will-she-won’t-she-expose-her-breasts shoot in an indulgent Turkish bath-style setting. I haven’t tried the fragrance yet. But I’m not complaining about watching the actress in beyond-gorgeous mode. Have you seen it yet? What do you think of it? Here’s the link in case you haven’t seen it: here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Dior J'Adore Absolu EDP

WHO’S A SEXY FRAGRANCE, THEN?

Product review site Faveable has revealed its list of sexiest fragrances for men and women. The men’s list includes: 1) Christian Dior Sauvage EDP; 2) Versace Eros; 3) YSL La Nuit de l’Homme; 4) YSL Y EDT and 5) Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Absolu EDP. The women’s list also features a mix of commercial newbies and modern classics: 1) YSL Black Opium; 2) Chanel Chance Eau Tendre EDT 3) Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb; 4) Marc Jacobs Daisy; and 5) Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.

Original source for more info: here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Sexiest Fragrances - YSL La Nuit de L'Homme EDP

INTERPARFUMS ON A ROLL

It’s been a good third-quarter for French fragrance design and distribution group Interparfums, following the success of the Coach and Jimmy Choo licences. The company forecasts an equally impressive 2019 with a multitude of fragrance launches. These include Montblanc Explorer (for men), a new Jimmy Choo fragrance for men, Lanvin Girl in Capri and Coach Floral Blush. Limited-edition fragrances from Rochas, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, ST Dupont, Repetto and Paul Smith will also be launched. Flankers on the line-up include one or more for Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Anna Sui Fantasia, Dunhill Century and Hollister Wave and Festival Vibes. In addition, there will be new collections from Graff, Dunhill and model Lily Aldridge. Phew, busy times, indeed!

Original sources for more info: here and here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Interparfums - Jimmy Choo Fever EDP

BUSY LAUNCH SCHEDULE: 2019 is going to be another big year for Interparfums. Read Fragrance News Snippets for essential updates.

HUDA KATTAN’S KAYALI FRAGRANCE LAUNCH

Blogger and entrepreneur Huda Kattan has made her fortune from the cosmetics range Huda Beauty and as an Instagram influencer. It was just a matter of time before she ventured into fragrance. And now her many followers are looking forward to buying her just-launched Kayali fragrance range. Inspired by her Middle Eastern heritage, it consists of four fragrances: Elixir 11, Vanilla 28, Citrus 08 and Musk 12. “Kayali” is the Arabic word for “my imagination”.

Original source for more info: here. 

Fragrance News Snippets - Huda Kuttan Kyali Citrus 08

DOLLAR SHAVE GLIDES INTO FRAGRANCE

So you’ve made a huge impact with your online shaving subscription service and Unilver has bought you for a cool billion dollars. What’s next for Dollar Shave? Fragrance, of course. The Blueprint Collection features two fragrance collections, Fresh and Warm, each consisting of three fragrances created by Ann Gottlieb (Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue EDP, Marc Jacobs Bang EDT, Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT). These include: Sea Spray & Melon, Citrusy Bergamot & Lavender, Lemon, Moss & Amber and Cedar & Spicy Cardamon, Cacao, Vanilla & Suede and Sandalwood & Vetiver.

Original source for more info: here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Dollar Shave Club Blueprint Collection

                                         

3 Sophisticated Men’s Fragrances To Sniff Out (Pronto!): Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT, Milano Cento Him EDT, Dunhill Century EDP

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Since my conversion to opening up all possibilities by regularly trying female fragrances, I haven’t done as many male-specific fragrance posts. So I am going to compensate for that by focusing on three sophisticated men’s fragrances in this post. These are: Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT (unisex, in fact), Milano Cento EDT and Dunhill Century EDP. Not that women can’t enjoy these sophisticated men’s fragrances on themselves, mind you.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

By “sophisticated fragrances”, I mean scents that have a certain refined elegance. Which is not to be confused with stuffy. They don’t have to try hard to make their wearer feel special. They make an unmistakable style statement, even when it’s a Sunday-in-pajamas kind of day. All three of these fragrances are unique in their own way. But they all share a common citrus theme.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century EDT

Acqua di Parma Colonia EDT

Classico! One of the biggest names in the niche fragrance industry, Acqua di Parma’s fragrance line was launched in 1916 with this remarkable scent. Over 100 years later, it’s still one of the best sophisticated men’s fragrances on the market. And for good reason. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style. (I’m having an extended Amalfi Coast road-trip, as I write this.)

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Acqua di Colonia begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, sweet orange, Calabrian bergamot). It’s one of the most distinctive cologne openings around that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes. I don’t pick up the listed Bulgarian rose note. This eventually gives way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia

Did you know?

  • Carlo Magnani founded the company. He used to spray a handkerchief with Colonia and then slip it into his pocket. If that’s not supremely stylish, I don’t know what is.
  • The bottle is inspired by the clean, geometric lines of Art Deco. It was introduced in 1930.
  • Cary Grant, Audrey Hepburn and Ava Gardner are just some of the stars who were seduced by its Italian chic.
  • All labels on all the bottles and packaging are applied by hand.
  • Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy bought the company in 2001.

100ml for R2 075.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia - Audrey Hepburn

Milano Cento Him EDT

Big in the 80s as a sophisticated men’s fragrance and now back on the market after a long absence. To celebrate, Milano Cento founder’s Dean Tatum’s 50th birthday, his wife and son organised a nostalgic present for him in the form of Milano Cento’s big-seller. This gift idea soon morphed into the relaunch of the business as a niche brand. The bottle design and logo have been tweaked and there are also additional products.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

Milano Cento EDT has a reassuringly masculine, Italian barbershop vibe to it. It opens with a fresh splash, courtesy of citrus, bergamot and petitgrain notes. While it’s hard to resist that intro, in the background of this fougère, there’s a developing herbal ensemble in the form of rosemary, lavender and basil notes. Sandalwood, patchouli, clove, cinnamon and amber notes round off the  appeal. Smooth, musky and spicy.

£29.50 for 50ml and £49.50 for 100ml, enquiries@milanocento.com.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Milano Cento Him EDT

Dunhill Century EDP (Carlos Benaïm)

Officially inspired by the notion of looking forward to a new century, Dunhill’s new pillar fragrance is actually retro-ish in smell. Carlos Benaim has created numerous stand-out fragrances over the years. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Euphoria Men EDT, Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT, Frederic Malle Music For A While EDT and Dunhill Icon EDT. So my expectations of his new creation were high.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century

I’m not disappointed, although a lot of other online reviewers may differ. I’m immediately hooked by the slightly sweet treatment of the opening bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit notes. This hint of sweetness continues through to the heart of the fragrance, where neroli, olibanum and cardamom notes announce their presence. The sweetness tapers slightly, as the base notes of sandalwood and musk bring a touch of warmth. Please note: The sweetness that’s present throughout this fragrance is the subtle kind. Relief for lovers of sophisticated men’s fragrances!

R1 495 for 135ml.

Sophisticated Men's Fragrances - Dunhill Century

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP: The Perfumer’s Perspective (Sonia Constant)

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

Givaudan’s Sonia Constant has created stand-out fragrances for Narciso Rodriguez since 2015. Her most recent fragrance for the brand, Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP, is an uber-seductive take on the original Narciso. It features big notes of Bulgarian rose, iris, musk and tuberose. The theme of seduction is carried through to the base, where vanilla and tonka bean add to the sensual warmth.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

SMELLS GOOD: Sonia Constant at work. Images of Sonia and Nadege: Supplied.

In this interview, Sonia Constant answers questions on how she and fellow nose Nadège le Garlantezec created Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP.

With your previous history with Narciso Rodriguez (Fleur Musc, Santal Musc, Bleu Noir), were you the automatic choice to create Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP? Or did you have to pitch for it?

Absolutely not. Even if I sign many Narciso Rodriguezes, we are always in competition to create the next perfume! So I had to pitch for it.

What was the brief for this fragrance? 

The brief was the colour red – a blazing red. We had to reinterpret this colour. Also words like “temptation”, “provocation”, “seduction”, “magnetism” and “passion” were part of the brief. The fragrance had to become a more seductive variant of the original Narciso.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Nadege le Garlantezec

CO-CREATOR: Nadege le Garlantezec created the fragrance with Sonia Constant.

“We wanted to create a vibrant, elegant, carnal and sensual femininity.”

What did you have in mind when you first started creating it? And how did you achieve that?

We wanted to create a vibrant, elegant, carnal and sensual femininity. We were thinking of a Baccarat rose, with some pink peppercorn on top. The ardent sensuality was to be revealed with an accord of sandalwood, cedar wood, tolu balm and myrrh. We also had in mind some tones of red sequoia and, of course, musks and tonka beans.

Musk is a staple of Narciso Rodriguez fragrances. How did you treat it for this EDP? 

Yes, musk is at the heart of every Narciso Rodriguez fragrance, but we had to adapt it with the rest of the formula.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

Where did you find inspiration for this fragrance? 

Nadège and I were really thinking about creating a fragrance able to initiate passion, something warm, but fluffy. Sensual, but in the Narciso Rodriguez style.

Were there any challenges you had to overcome while creating this fragrance? 

Yes, actually the red colour was not so easy to translate, because Mr Rodriguez doesn’t like fruit or gourmand fragrances. So at the beginning we started with some cherry facet, but had to finally remove it. Also, Narciso Rodriguez fragrances don’t follow trends, so it was always more difficult to be a trendsetter.

“The red colour was not so easy to translate, because Mr Rodriguez doesn’t like fruit or gourmand fragrances.”

How long did it take you to create this fragrance?

We worked almost a year on it.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

There are lots of Narciso Rouge reviews online. Do you ever read reviews of your creations? 

Unfortunately, I don’t have time to read all the reviews on all my creations, but the few I read seem good, I think.

Are you working on any other Narciso Rodriguez fragrances? 

I really love the brand and embrace it, so yes I am always working on a new Narciso Rodriguez fragrance. I can only say that it is much more than one project!

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

Celebrity Fragrances: Of Perfumes, Preferences & Prejudices

Celebrity Fragrances - Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

Celebrity fragrances ain’t what they used to be. The category has been in steady decline for several years. According to Women’s Marketing, sales of celebrity scents in the US crashed from $150 million in 2011 to just over $50 million in 2014. In the UK, according to Cosmetics Business, sales of celebrity fragrances plummeted 22% from £56.5m in 2015 to £44.2m in 2016. Despite the grim figures, the business model for this sector is quick-in, quick-out. So new scents are still being launched.

Celebrity Fragrances - Pitbull Miami

Would you wear celebrity fragrances? Such a simple questions can provoke a flurry of reactions ranging from the downright “Never, too common!” and “Yeuch, too tacky!”, to the more measured, “Yes, great value for money” and, “Of course, they are sometimes created by top perfumers”.

Celebrity Fragrances - Christina Aguilera Glam X

Speaking for myself, I know that my decision to wear a particular celeb’s fragrance was sometimes partly based on my pre-existing ideas about that star. Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture? So Kim Kardashian would have got a big fat “No!” from me.

Celebrity Fragrances - Adam Levine For Him EDT

THE VOICE OF REASON: But do I like you, Adam?

So I decided to put my prejudices and preferences to the test by wearing several celebrity fragrances created for a variety of stars. The results were, to say the least, revealing.

Celebrity Fragrances - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance. Interestingly, quite of a few of these celebrity fragrances don’t have a listed perfumer. Perhaps to create the illusion that the celeb concerned created it?

“Do I like him/her based on interviews I had seen/read and their contributions to popular culture?”

Adam Levine For Him EDT (Yann Vasnier)

What I was expecting from the rock musician: A middle-of-the-road scent featuring an inoffensive rock ‘n roll sensibility, with hints of darn-I’m-so-sexy smugness.

What I got: A huge (and surprising blast) of guava from start to finish that completely dominates all of the other listed notes. This is classic love-it-or-hate-it-stuff that stays put for hours. Depending on your reaction, this is a very good or very bad thing.

R495 for 30ml and R695 for 50ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Adam Levine For Him EDT

Britney Spears VIP Private Show

What I was expecting from the seen-it-all pop star: Kinda sweet, kinda trashy (in a good way), kinda fun, kinda young.
What I got: With all that initial sweetness, the equivalent of an olfactory filling, courtesy of blood orange, mango nectar and red apple notes. However, the pleasant dry-down of raspberry wood, golden amber and velvet musk brought me to my senses. I have to admit I even found myself thinking, “What’s that nice smell”, after the initial onslaught had thankfully subsided.

R585.00 for 50ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP

Gold Jay Z (Illias Ermenidis)

What I was expecting from the hip-hop mogul: Bling-meets-street cred, loud and proud.
What I got: An unexpectedly sophisticated, albeit sweet, scent that features a very agreeable pink pepper note front and centre. Other discernible notes in the eclectic mix include: blueberry, violet leaf, vanilla, cardamom, lavender and grapefruit. It’s good to be wrong (sometimes).

R620 for 90ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Gold Jay Z EDT

Pitbull Man EDT

What I was expecting from the Latino hit machine (or, more accurately, what I was hoping for): A hot number infused with the passions and rhythms of Cuban Miami.
What I got: A fairly standard woody-aromatic vibe, with notes of woods, cardamom, sage, violet and tonka, lending a familiar-ish (and strangely bitter) vibe. Sorry, Armando Christian Perez, a lost opportunity. Congrats, though, on the solid and slick bottle design.

R620 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Pitbull Man EDT

Nude by Rihanna EDP

What I was expecting from the R&B superstar: Something provocative, sexy, perhaps even raunchy.
What I got: Featuring notes of guava, pear, gardenia, sambac jasmine and orange blossom, it’s a pretty fruity-floral that’s very much in tune with current trends. If Fenty wanted to show her softer, sweeter side, this is a case of mission accomplished. It’s a quick fader, though, which is not something I would associate with the Bajan.

R620 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Nude by Rihanna EDP

Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

What I was expecting from the seductor Spaniard actor: I’d – shameless self-promotion alert – interviewed the man before (read here) and was familiar with several of his fragrances. So I had a head-start compared to the other celeb fragrances I’ve covered in this post. I won’t go into that here.
What I got: He’s been in the biz of seduction for 20 years and is one of Puig’s big money-spinners. So Banderas knows what will have commercial and relatively enduring appeal. Power of Seduction, his latest fragrance, opens with a fresh ’n fruity blast of bergamot and apple notes. It then morphs into an aromatic focus, with notes of lavender and sage. There’s also a big patchouli note lurking in here. While this typically masculine fragrance won’t be winning any awards for originality, it’s undeniably good quality at the price.

R505 for 50ml and R630 for 100ml.

Celebrity Fragrances - Antonio Banderas Power of Seduction EDT

CHRISTINA AGUILERA GLAM X EDP

What I was expecting from the American singer: Considering the name of this fragrance, it would have to be lashings of grown-up glamour.
What I got: The caramelised peach note opening doesn’t make for a very glam start. But things pick up when the floral aspect – freesia, lily of the valley, heliotrope and jasmine – slinks in. The base is all warm and cosy with notes of musk, amber and sandalwood. This is a nice-enough fragrance, but doesn’t push the glam-o-meter sufficiently to warrant its name.

236ml fine fragrance mist for R199, 30ml for R299 and 60ml for R429.

Celebrity Fragrances - Christina Aguilera Glam X EDP

 

Les Eaux de Chanel Review: Paris-Biarritz EDT and Paris-Venise EDT

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

I’m normally very immune to hype (me a jaded journalist?), but I do make an exception for Chanel fragrance launches. Partly because the French luxury company is so darn good at hype. But more importantly, because Chanel continues to release fragrances that are worthy of our attention and wallets. I first started hearing the hype about Chanel’s new collection, Les Eaux de Chanel, about five months ago when it was launched internationally. And more recently that hype gathered momentum when it was released in South Africa.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

To get straight to the point, I had to have it! I was thrilled when I received two of the three fragrances from the range, Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise. I haven’t smelled Paris-Deauville yet, so this review will focus on the other two.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

Before I go into that specifically, here’s some essential info on this collection created by Olivier Polge. Chanel’s in-house perfumer took his initial inspiration from three destinations that featured prominently in Madamoiselle’s remarkable life: Biarritz, Venise and Deauville.

Les Eaux de Chanel

WORK IN PROGRESS: Chanel in-house perfumer Olivier Polge in the lab. Image courtesy of Chanel.

These are where Chanel launched her first collection in her shop; where she journeyed after the death of her beloved Boy Capel; and the Basque resort town where she opened another shop, respectively.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

STYLE STORE: Chanel in front of her Deauville shop in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

While these locations were the starting point for Polge, none of the fragrances are meant to be about these places per se. Instead, he wanted the EDTs to be all about the idea of travel and the possibilities that accompany it.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Coco Chanel in Venice

SUN GODDESS: Chanel at Villa Maatena, Venice, in 1924. Image courtesy of Chanel.

So what do Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Venise smell like?

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

It opens with a superb citrus character (notes of grapefruit and mandarin). This is supported by an aquatic note, apparently – truth be told, I don’t pick that up. It doesn’t really matter, though, as the lily-of-the-valley accord puts any of my quibbles in their place pronto. What follows next is a seductive blend of vetiver and white musk notes. The overall effect is one of fresh crispness that sees me smelling my wrists longingly after applying it there.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

Featuring a definite oriental vibe, iris features prominently in the fragrance’s top notes, with a hint of neroli. Glorious stuff! Notes of red berry and Grasse geranium add to the immediate appeal. Cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka notes are also present, but in a subtle manner. While this EDT may be classified as a luxurious oriental fragrance, it’s a gentle take on the genre, not a full-on affair. It’s beautiful from start to finish.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

In conclusion, I highly recommend both of these unisex fragrances. Yes, they are fairly light on my skin, but such objects of fleeting beauty are worth every cent. Now, all I need to do is get a whiff of Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Deauville asap.

I’ve included some more archive pics of Chanel below. Hope they will fascinate you too!

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Biarritz in 1928

DRIVEN: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

FASHION REVOLUTION: Chanel and aunt Adrienne In front of the Chanel boutique, Deauville, in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

5 Fragrance News Snippets: D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran, Jo Malone Huntsman Collection, Jeremy Fragrance Picks Alberto Morillas, Creed Aventus Cologne, Sophie Brocart The New MD Of Jean Patou

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection

Image: www.jomalone.co.uk

I’ve been wanting to launch a new series for a long time on my blog. Something that’s useful, but not too serious. Something that gives a quick overview of interesting things happening in the world of fragrance, without claiming to be a definitive guide. So here it is: The debut of the monthly Fragrance News Snippets on Fragroom.

Please let me know what you think of it. If you come across anything news-worthy, please forward to me (rpgoller@gmail.com) for consideration in future editions of Fragrance News Snippets .

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga For Duran Duran Hungry Like The Wolf

D.S. & DURGA COLLABORATE WITH DURAN DURAN

How do you celebrate 40 years in the music biz? If you’re English pop band Duran Duran, you collaborate with the uber-cool D.S. & Durga, the New York-based niche perfume company. The result is a collection of four fragrances, D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran, inspired by songs released by the foursome over the decades. The perfume oils Hungry Like The Wolf, Come Undone, Skin Divers and You Kill Me With Silence are available exclusively from Liberty, London, in rollerball format for £75 each. Original source for more info: read here. 

Fragrance News Snippets - D.S. & Durga for Duran Duran

FINDING THEIR NICHE: The members of Duran Duran (John Taylor, Roger Taylor, Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes) with Kavi and David Moltz of D.S. & Durga.

JO MALONE PARTNERS WITH HUNTSMAN SAVILE ROW

Talking of collaborations… there’s been no shortage of standout Jo Malone fragrances for men over the years. But in a very smart move, the British fragrance brand has partnered with renowned tailors Huntsman Savile Row to produce a most gentlemanly collection. The four colognes feature enticing names (and combos) such as Amber & Patchouli, Assam & Grapefruit, Birch & Black Pepper and Whisky & Cedarwood. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Jo Malone Huntsman Collection

Image: www.jomalone.co.uk

JEREMY FRAGRANCE PICKS HIS PERFUMER

Fragrance reviewer Jeremy Fragrance has become something of a celebrity himself, with almost 600 000 followers across his various channels. So it was just a matter of time before the YouTube star launched his own fragrance range. The 29-year-old has chosen living legend Alberto Morillas (cK One, Cartier Panthere, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio, Mugler Cologne, Yves Saint Laurent M7) to create his fragrances. This must mean Jeremy Fragrance wants his perfumes to have: a) commercial appeal; b) critical success; and c) longevity. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets: Alberto Morillas and Jeremy Fragrance.

Image: Jeremy Fragrance Facebook

CREED AVENTUS GETS THE COLOGNE TREATMENT

Launched in 2010 by the French luxury fragrance company, Aventus EDP has developed a large cult following that borders on the religious. News that Creed plans to launch a cologne version of their best-seller has been met with much online excitement/exasperation. The prototype was on display earlier this month at the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes, France. No official launch date has been confirmed yet. Original source for more info: read here.

Fragrance News Snippets - Creed Aventus Cologne

Image: Fragrantica

SOPHIE BROCARD TO HEAD UP JEAN PATOU

Following LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s recent acquisition of Jean Patou, Sophie Brocard has been announced as the new MD of the revered French fashion and perfume company. While Jean Patou has an impressive catalogue of fragrance classics, it hasn’t launched anything since 2016. Previously the CEO of luxury shoe brand Nicholas Kirkwood, Brocard will be responsible for re-establishing Jean Patou as a global luxury brand. No doubt, Jean Patou devotees will be watching her closely. Original source for more info: read here. 

 

Fragrance News Snippets - Jean Patou Joy EDP

Image: www.amazon.com

Is there anything in particular you’d you’d like to read in Fragroom’s Fragrance News Snippets? Please let me know.

Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRED ZARA.

2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Quentin Bisch - Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF GIVAUDAN

What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.

IMAGE COURTESY OF HERMES.COM

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

Quentin Bisch - Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRAGRANTICA.COM

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Quentin Bisch - Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

Quentin Bisch - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!

 

The Comfort of Smells

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

I’ve been thinking a lot about comforting smells recently. Let’s just say it’s been a relentless year on the work and health fronts. We all know smells affect our moods – for better or worse. Science tells us how they can influence our emotions and even our work and consumption behaviour. For fascinating insights on the subject and associative learning, I recommend reading this article by Rachel S Herz, assistant professor of psychology at Brown University, here.

The selection of comforting smells below have been particularly effective for me. What are your favourite comforting smells?

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Francis Kurkdjian’s oriental masterpiece is adored by many for its sensuality. I couldn’t agree more. For me, it’s a mellow sensuality that always conjures up chic cosiness whenever I wear it. Have amber and vanilla (with cistus labdanum, benzoin and tonka bean  in support) ever smelled this good? R2 705 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Whenever these shrubs bloom towards the end of August in Johannesburg, I am taken back to my less complicated childhood. We had one of these in our garden. According to Gardening Know How, it get its name from its flowers’ transformation from purple (yesterday), then pastel lavender (today), on to white (tomorrow). The berries and seeds are poisonous, which belies the flowers’ heady sweetness. Still, I am seriously thinking of having one of these bushes on our developing garden balcony.

Comforting Smells - Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Although some people might find it more appropriate for winter, I find this room spray from the Dutch company Zenology so snuggle-able. Which makes its blend of smoked Darjeeling tea accord, woods and spices ideal year round for me. Gourmand-phobics, fear not. There’s nothing sweet nor heavy about it. R260 for 50ml, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Zenology Ambiance Spray Titio / Firewood

Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Sometimes I just want a comforting floral smell that’s close to my skin – just for me and those allowed into my personal space. Even better if it’s in the form of a product that has healthy skin benefits. Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil is made from moisturising mango butter and regenerating Tamanu oil. It’s gently fragranced with notes that include bergamot, honey, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla and musk. R380 for 5g, https://www.skins.co.za.

Comforting Smells - Sabe Masson Le Soft Perfume La Reine Soleil

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

I’ve been wanting to try this gel-cream product for some time, partly due to its relaxing name. As the skin regenerates best while we get a good night’s sleep, it features a mix of highly active ingredients renowned for their rejuvenating properties. These include Persian silk tree bark, Wu-Zhu-Yu fruit, Kakadu plum and tamarind seed extracts. All of these work together overnight to deliver impressive results in the morning. I love that it includes French lavender, sandalwood and patchouli aromatherapy essential oils to enhance sleep. R1 295 for 50ml.

Comforting Smells - Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon

THE BUMPER CATCH-UP REVIEWS EDITION: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT, Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense, Cacharel Yes I Am EDP, Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP, Jimmy Choo Fever EDP, Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Fragrance Fatigue (noun): The exhaustion experienced by perfume-loving bloggers when confronted by the sheer volume of annual launches. 

I read somewhere recently that almost 2 500 fragrances are launched every year. That’s a lot of fragrances for even the most dedicated of perfume-loving bloggers to get (and smell) through. An impossible task, in fact. The number alone is enough to give me Fragrance Fatigue. So where am I going with this? I recently experienced an impending sense of MFF (Major Fragrance Fatigue) when I realised I had an awful lot of fragrance reviews to catch up on. The second half of the year sees new launches flooding the market, even though we only get a very edited selection in South Africa of what’s launched internationally.

So this post is a bumper catch-up edition, which fortunately saw me overcome my initial fear of Fragrance Fatigue. If I can say so myself, there’s an eclectic mix here.Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

If the superb Diptyque Philosykos is way out of your price range, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT is a very worthwhile substitute. Yes, it’s that good. The 19th addition to the Green Tea range celebrates (this is such a happy fragrance, after all) the pleasures of the fig tree. “I imagined nibbling on juicy, nectar-filled figs while savouring a warm, fragrant cup of tea… all of it happening under the enveloping branches of a fig tree!” says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of his inspiration. It opens with an unmistakable and captivating note of fig leaves. This is not a “pure” fig scent, so there’s also Italian bergamot, cedrat, clementine and ivy leaves in the mix. The fig theme is carried through to the heart, with kadota fig mingling with green tea accord, violet leaf and pistachio tree resin. A truly delicious cure for Fragrance Fatigue! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT Review

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense (Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin)

When I reviewed Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT last year, I described it as a sombre fragrance – in a good way. The latest version has more of a herbal opening, with notes of rosemary and clary sage, but it’s still firmly in moody territory. The heart sticks to the marine script, with lashings of sea and sea salt notes. There’s also a strong smoky and woody vibe to this EDT. It’s not radically different from the original, but is well worth sniffing out if you’re in the market for a distinctive maritime scent. R1 040 for 50ml and R1 290 for 100ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey EDT Intense

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP (Honorine Blanc and Christophe Reynaud)

Any discussion of this fragrance is going to start with its love-it-or-hate-it packaging. Object of desire or tacky sex toy? While the scent itself is not as divisive, its “spicy cremoso” will largely influence whether this fragrance with gourmand, floral and fruity characteristics is the one for you. Cacharel defines this innovation as “an eau de parfum based for the first time on the spicy creamy contrast of cream of cardamom”. The fragrance is mostly sweet, but not yuckily so, and more sophisticated than its youthful marketing suggests. R675 for 30ml, R990 for 50ml and R1 100 for 75ml.

Cacharel Yes I Am EDP Review

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP

Who would have thought that a Yardley English Blazer fragrance could be so intriguing and darn frustrating to place? Listed notes include fresh ginger, nutmeg, amber, cashmeran, vetiver and musk. But there’s something else going on in this powerhouse EDP that I can’t figure out at all. I’m still not sure if this is a good or bad thing. Best you try it yourself and please let me know if you experience the same issue. R379.95 for 100ml.

Yardley English Blazer Azure EDP Review

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP (Nathalie Lorson and Honorine Blanc)

Gourmand meets floral in Jimmy Choo Fever, as in Night Fever. Jimmy Choo fragrances for women have always been on the sweet side of the scent spectrum and this one is no exception. It features a full-on gourmand gathering, courtesy of black plum nectar, lychee, roasted tonka bean, vanilla, hazelnut and coffee notes. Heliotrope, jasmine and vanilla orchid bring in the floral aspect, while notes of creamy sandalwood and benzoin up the sugar content. It’s a loud scent, guaranteed to last from dusk to dawn, and provides a whole new take on the subject of fragrance fatigue. R1 310 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Fever EDP Review

FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS: Those scary creatures in the water are some mighty large koi. I shot this pic at a good friend’s home and wish to assure you that no animals were harmed in its production.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (Philippe Romano)

The Dunhill Desire range was launched in the year 2 000. Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT (not to be confused with Dunhill Desire Blue EDT, although this flanker builds on it) is the seventh addition to the line. No prizes for guessing what it’s about. It has a fresh and invigorating citrus and mint opening that quickly segues into a salty interpretation of its maritime theme, with base notes of patchouli, vetiver and tonka bean rounding it off. It’s an outdoorsy scent that’s refreshingly un-sweet. R1 245 for 100ml.

Dunhill Desire Blue Ocean EDT Review

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT (Caroline Sabas)

The official inspiration for a fragrance can often make for hilarious and misleading reading. But in the case of Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT, the reality perfectly reflects the inspiration of a summer breeze, complete with wafting notes of lemon, apple, vert de mandarin, rose, osmanthus, jasmine, cedarwood, musks and amber. This is fresh, green, uplifting stuff which, like its namesake, comes and goes, so it requires regular re-applications. At this bargain price, I ain’t complaining. Super! R445 for 100ml.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT Review

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT (Nathalie Lorson)

Following on from the successes of Jimmy Choo Man EDT, Jimmy Choo Man Intense EDT and Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, there’s Jimmy Choo Man Blue. This woody-aromatic-leathery EDT opens with a big hit of clary sage essence (I also pick up the bergamot and black pepper notes). The heart goes a little deeper with leather and cypress, while the base features sandalwood, vanilla and um, apparently, vetiver. (What’s it about these listed vetiver notes that are so difficult to smell?) Ostensibly aimed at rebelliously cool 20-somethings, its appeal should extend beyond that demographic due its versatility, wearability and easy-going elegance. R1 110 for 100ml.

Jimmy Choo Man Blue EDT Review