Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).
PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.
Notes (according to fragrantica.com)
Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.
About the brand
Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.
KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.
Impressions
How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…
Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website
“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”
When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.
I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.
Verdict
A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.
To buy in South Africa
From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).
There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years, in general, and NYC-inspired, specifically. Former model-turned-entrepreneur Mona Maine de Biran says her niche brand, Kierin NYC, offers a compelling and uncompromising alternative to what’s currently available on the market.
“I come from a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model).”
After reading a blog-post of mine, Mona got in touch with me and very kindly sent me a discovery kit containing the brand’s four launch EDPs. These are Nitro Noir, Santal Sky, 10am Flirt and Sunday Brunch. I’ve enjoyed wearing all of the Kierin NYC fragrances. There’s something fresh and playful about them. As I wanted to know more about them, I sent Mona some questions on her background, the brand itself, her choice of perfumer and her rejection of gender binary fragrances.
FRAGRANCE ENTREPRENEUR: Mona Maine de Biran is the co-founder and president of Kierin NYC.
How did the idea for Kierin NYC fragrances come about?
For a long time, we’ve been unsatisfied with the rules and compromises that existed in the market. Since no one was doing what we wanted to do, it seemed like a natural evolution to do it ourselves.
What’s your background? Do you come from a fragrance background?
I have a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model). My partners are the industry veterans. My husband’s background includes: managing director for Bulgari Parfums, general manager for Puig North America (Prada, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne), VP marketing for Clarins North America, Chanel and Clinique. The fact that I didn’t grow up in the industry, however, has helped form Kierin NYC’s unique perspective and brand values. As co-founder and President of Kierin NYC, I aim to challenge some of the conventional rules of fragrance and offer consumers a fresh perspective with a modern approach.
There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years. What makes Kierin NYC different from the multitudes of brands on the market?
Kierin NYC is an uncompromising brand. Current industry trends in unisex aim for compromise, producing scents which I find to be sexless packaged with un-inspirational and minimalistic designs. The “green” industry also fell into that trend in terms of style.
“We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.”
We provide an alternative, crafting bold scents which are genderless but never generic. Our olfactory vibes are uncompromising, high-quality blends and concentrations that are also sustainably sourced, recyclable, cruelty-free, free of unnecessary stabilisers, toxins and skin allergens, and vegan.
We chose to be an accessibly priced niche fragrance. Because quality niche fragrances tend to be expensive, fewer people can enjoy them. Those who do tend to consider them speciality-use fragrance experiences. Kierin NYC tells stories of every-day NYC life and we would like people to incorporate our fragrances into their own everyday life. We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.
Kierin NYC is different from other NY-centric brands, some of which were successful for their times in the 1990s and early 2000s, in that Kierin NYC expresses the modern spirit of New York City. Our scents are about people (not places). Art and the city are our muses, not celebrities or elitist stereotypes. We do not produce scents that segregate the city by gender or into neighborhoods. We transcend those boundaries with scents made simply for bold individuals. Kierin NYC is a socially conscious brand committed to inclusivity. We have chosen not to perpetuate biases and, for example, do not produce scents “for her” or “for him”. We aim to inspire people, not define or confine them.
Please tell us more about your take on gender within the perfume industry and why you decided not to participate in this binary?
I don’t participate in that binary because it’s insulting. As a model, I never liked fragrance marketers telling me what it meant to smell like or be a woman. They presumed that I should like pink, crystals and the smell of roses (I don’t). And so, my individualism denied, I was forced to shop for fragrances that I like in men’s aisles. I was always perplexed by the fragrance marketer’s logic. Is a Kandinsky feminine or a Warhol macho? When I go to an art gallery, no one tells me where to go. I think we can all agree, in this modern era, that labeling art as “for her” or “for him” would be insulting to us as individuals. Fragrance, like art, is for all… and should be free of gender-bias labels.
How did you integrate NYC art into your brand?
The white, opaque bottle is like a canvas. The label is purposely positioned “on the edge” of the square bottle as a metaphor for living life to its fullest. The collage art is reminiscent of the lifestyle of NYC and so many street art and graffiti art murals wrapped around the city’s building corners.
Why did you choose Mathieu Nardin as the perfumer for your fragrances
Our choice began with our commitment to producing sustainably sourced scents. As one of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations, Mathieu was a perfect fit for Kierin NYC. As each scent in our collection began as a mood board and story of real New York City life, Mathieu’s literary and visual methods suited our lifestyle approach. His multi-sensorial approach (smell, sight, sound) to olfactive creation helped us to translate this into “fragrance stories”: Sunday Brunch, 10am Flirt, Nitro Noir and Santal Sky.
PERFECT FIT: Mathieu Nardin is part of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations.
How closely did you work with Mathieu on the creation of the fragrances
My husband and Mathieu worked very closely together to fine-tune the scents and concentrations. It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that. They evoke a vibe, tell a real story of NYC illuminated by fragrance. It took time and required collaboration to perfect each scent.
“It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that.”
What was the starting point for the fragrances? Was a story important to you?
Our fragrances were born with a story, a real NYC story. While these stories are my personal experiences, they are not unique. Many people living here would relate to my stories as their own. New York City is an incredible inspiration because of its people. Diversity is the lifeblood of this city.
What’s next for Kierin NYC?
We are in full launch mode for 2019. The brand just started a few months ago and launched on Amazon Luxury Beauty in November 2018. Kierin NYC still has a lot of work to do to get the good news of our brand out to the public. Our next launch will be in the UK this April. We will be hosting a fun pop-up store experience in London’s über-trendy Boxpark. Of course, there are many more fragrances in line for our future.
FABULOUS FRANCHISE: Mugler Alien fragrances more often than not add something new or different to the original.
The last time I had a bit of a whinge about the world of perfumes it was about the foibles of my shopping experience (you can read that post here). Since that post, I’ve been thinking a lot about other fragrance frustrations. Admittedly, some of these fragrance frustrations are really petty and personal to me; others I’m sure you can relate to. What are your top fragrance frustrations? Perhaps, it’s whining bloggers…
“Perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me.”
Spray nozzle facing the wrong way
This one is really silly, yet I’m amazed how many times I get this wrong. Scenario: I’m in a rush to wear one of my favourite fragrances, I remove the cap and start spraying… into my hands and everywhere else, but my body. As I said, really silly. Apart from taking more time to check the direction of the spray nozzle to save myself from unnecessary harm, perhaps perfume producers could introduce an innovation just for me. A luminous hole on the nozzle so that I can quickly spot which way I am spraying? Please tell I’m not the only one to experience this problem.
The umpteenth flanker (and limited edition)
I understand and appreciate the business model of releasing fragrance flankers. Old fans might love the original enough to buy the new version and new consumers might be gained with each new release. The best flankers add something new to the original, but all too often the release of yet another one smacks of desperate cash-ins and diminishing returns. One of my favourite fragrances from the 90s, L’Eau d’Issey, now numbers a staggering 49 flankers and limited editions for the male and female versions combined. YSL Black Opium was released in 2014 and already numbers 14 flankers and limited editions. Are you keeping up?
Bad Instagram behaviour
What’s the deal with people who follow you on Instagram, then unfollow you, then follow you and then unfollow you again? I really don’t get the point of this behaviour. It seems while some people collect fragrances, others collect followers, but have no intention of ever liking your content. You’ve heard of “empty calories”. Well, welcome to the world of “empty followers”. Recently, I’ve even noticed some people liking my content and then unliking it. Oh, stop it now!
Niche fragrance snobbery
I’ve only really started exploring niche fragrances in the last few years and am thoroughly enjoying making so many new discoveries. There’s also the thrill of so many more to discover, as the market has exploded in the last five years. What does get to me, though, is the wholesale rejection of anything non-niche, including designer, celebrity and bargain fragrances. As if all niche fragrances are good and anything else is rubbish. I agree that most of the innovation is happening in the niche category, but there’s still good stuff to be found in other categories.
Perfume stories
This is one of my fragrance frustrations/guilty pleasures. Stories are increasingly important in the land of perfume, especially when it comes to the inspiration/creation of a fragrance. Generally, designer fragrance brands go for the story of the man/woman who the fragrance is created for. No matter how many adjectives they use, these ideal people all sound very interchangeable. On the other hand, niche fragrances can be guilty of trying too hard to be different and many of their stories land up being bafflingly obscure. While I find these stories hard work when I want to extract some useful info, I also get perverse joy from reading their nonsensical content.
GREAT STORY-TELLING AND PERFUME-MAKING: According to DS & Durga, the inspiration for their Burning Barbershop EDP is that “a fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla and lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” The fragrance captures this story so well.
You can read my reviews of DS & Durga Burning Barbershop EDP and Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 on my Instagram page, @richgoller.
Top notes: pink pomelo from Florida, mandarin from Calabria, blackcurrant bud from Burgundy. Heart notes: Moroccan orange blossom, Bulgarian rose essence, mint from China. Base notes: vetiver from Haiti, iris from Tuscany, amber (main notes in italics).
About the brand
Founded by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel in 2009, the Parisian niche fragrance brand takes its inspiration from the citrus profile of the classic eau de cologne. According to the duo, they launched a new olfactive family, Cologne Absolue, that blends citruses with “the most precious natural raw materials”.
CLASSIC INSPIRATION: Sylvie Ganter is the co-founder of Atelier Cologne.
Impressions
Pomelo notes can be harsh and off-putting. Not this one. It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again. As the fragrance develops, the second main note, mandarin, starts coming through. Smooth and super-realistic, it maintains the invigorating vibe going with aplomb. As a vetiver-lover, I was very keen to experience the other key-note, hopefully, in a big way. But it’s more of a subtle, grassy hint in Atelier de Cologne Pomelo Paradis. However, that’s a quibble in the scheme of things.
“It’s sunny and full of blissful life. The addictive kind you want to experience again and again.”
Verdict
It’s only when I did some more research that I discovered that this fragrance comes from the brand’s Joie de Vivre collection. That’s exactly what Atelier Cologne Pomélo Paradis does so well. If you believe a perfume can have uplifting, mood-enhancing qualities, this one is definitely for you.
What others say
“Delightful and probably the best thing in this genre since Guerlain Pamplelune).” – Luca Turin, Perfumes: The Guide 2018
From a new master perfumer to digital transformation, it’s all in this month’s edition of Fragrance News Snippets.
VICTORIA BECKHAM DOES BEAUTY
The celebrity beauty range trend (Rihanna, Kylie Jenner, Madonna) gathers pace. Victoria Beckham will be launching Victoria Beckham Beauty later this year. Sarah Creal, former head of global make-up development and marketing at Estée Lauder, will be the co-founder and CEO of the division. Beckham said: “I want to take care of women inside and out, providing them with the must-have items in make-up, skincare, fragrance and wellness that I feel I need in my own life.”
THE BEAUTY OF IT: Victoria Beckham Beauty will fall under the larger Victoria Beckham fashion brand. Image: www.victoriabeckham.com.
Perfumer Anne Flipo has a very impressive list of fragrance creations and co-creations to her name. These include: YSL L’Homme EDT, Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP and Jo Malone Basil & Neroli Cologne. The multi-award-winning perfumer joined International Flavors & Fragrances Inc in 2004. She was recently named as the fifth master perfumer by the company in recognition of her “consistent and outstanding levels of creativity and craftsmanship in the art of perfumery”.
Narciso Rodriguez fragrances for women are always characterised by a good dose of musk and Pure Musc for Her EDP is no exception. The latest addition to the For Her range was created by Sonia Constant, who has produced several fragrances for the American brand. The EDP features notes of musk, florals and cashmeran.
Digital transformation, innovation and keeping up with trends are essentials of any modern business. Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan has launched The Digital Factory. This Paris-based project accelerator will see worldwide company experts, partners and customers working together to enhance innovation through technology, including AI.
For a hugely popular fragrance, the flankers and limited editions for Paco Rabanne Invictus have been slow by industry standards. That will change with the launch of the fresh oriental Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend EDP later this year. Details are scant at this stage, but no doubt it will be a hit.
As much as I love smelling perfumes for their beauty, I also want to know what goes on behind the scenes in the complex creation of a fragrance. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn is a key account manager at Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.
“Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive.”
She has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn very generously gave me almost two hours of her time to tell me about her work and the company. She also introduced me to the Road Stories Cape Town project. Up-and-coming American perfumer Linda Song spent over a week in Cape Town exploring the region’s unique flora for a collection of 12 wonderful accords. You can read my interview with Linda Song here.
FRAGRANCE HUNTER: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn introduced me to perfumer Linda Song’s contribution to Givaudan’s Road Stories project.
What does your role at Givaudan entail?
I am an account manager, responsible for handling South African and Malagasy accounts. Our office is based in Johannesburg and we work with clients across the whole Sub-Saharan African region.
How long have you been with the company?
This will be my 20th year. Time truly flies!
ADDICTIVE: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn says: “Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.”
What is the attraction working for Givaudan?
Givaudan is the number one role-player in the global fragrance and flavour industry. I am surrounded by people who are passionate about what they do. Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.
UNASSUMING: The exterior of the Givaudan office in Johannesburg.
Is your role very creative?
On the commercial side we are responsible for liaising with our clients and handling projects they may have. I enter these briefs into our global system and then act as intermediary with our evaluators, who in turn task perfumers to create fragrances according to the requirements of the client brief. I then evaluate these submissions to make sure that they answer the client’s requirements (eg, a fine fragrance for a young target market, a hygiene soap range, etc).
Creativity is required in order to ensure that we deliver the best possible fragrances and that we really go out of our way to assist our clients. Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!
“Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!”
WELL OILED: The LCMS lab where fragrance oils are prepared by staff based on the formulae they receive on the internal system from Givaudan’s perfumers worldwide.
How does the evaluation process work? And what is your role in that process?
The evaluator is a technically (highly) trained person who handles the client brief, once entered into the system. This individual needs a great nose, loads of olfactory experience and the ability to reach out to perfumers and reconcile their offerings with what the commercial team wants.
GREAT NOSE: Wesley Perumal is a personal care evaluator at Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.
Your job entails a fair amount of travel? Any favourite place so far?
I guess it will remain Paris, as this city has been the non-official capital of the fragrance industry since the 17th century. However, in this job you have to be at ease in European surroundings, as well as in bustling African cities.
IMAGE: VIATOR.COM
How does Givaudan South Africa contribute to the business, particularly fine fragrances?
Our fine fragrance headquarters are based in Paris, France. The South African office works closely with the Dubai and Paris teams to create fine fragrances for our local market. Something few people outside the industry realise is that the same perfumers who create fragrances for the famous premium and niche brands also work on mass market fragrances for countries like South Africa.
The creation of a perfume iS a complicated process. Please share some details with us on that.
Perfumers have a very long road to travel before becoming fully fledged “noses” or perfumers. Before, the world’s perfumery hub was based in the town of Grasse in France and it was a bit of a family tradition to work in the perfumery business. However, nowawdays, thanks to the Internet, our perfumers come from all over the world and have different backgrounds and interests, ranging from philosophy to architecture. A solid chemistry training is still a prerequisite, combined with an artistic ability. Creating fragrances is a real art.
“Perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met.”
Having said that, perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met. Some fragrances can be quite simple, while others can contain up to 100 ingredients. Creating a fragrance is a complex process and in our current context of high raw material prices and/or shortages, also a real challenge. The perfumer has to skilfully blend ingredients in such a way that there is a fresh hook in the fragrance, followed by the heart or signature of the fragrance and the dry down notes (amber, woods, or musks that ensure longevity). All of this has to provide a coherent, rounded effect.
BUSINESS AS USUAL: Givaudan will probably celebrate its 250th year in the biz with low-key celebrations, says Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.
How is Givaudan celebrating its 250th year in business?
We are used to working incognito and will probably not have huge celebrations. Despite being 250 years old, most people outside the fragrance industry have never heard of us. We basically work behind the scenes, doing our best to assist our clients to make their brands perform well.
Please tell us about the Road Stories Cape Town Project. Why is this so important to Givaudan?
Sub-Saharan Africa is often neglected when it comes to raw ingredients for use in perfumery. Apart from rooibos, tagete (good old kakiebos) and buchu, none of our other fascinating ingredients are known or appreciated. Linda Song’s 12 beautiful accords, inspired by her visit to the Western Cape, are absolutely exquisite. Her collection shows that we have a lot to be proud of.
RAW INGREDIENTS: Perfumer Linda Song created a Mona lavender fragrance accord after exploring the species that’s unique to South Africa.
I was very impressed by the Linda Song fragrances you shared with me. What can we do to promote an appreciation of our own ingredients?
For some reason, South Africans do not always appreciate local ingredients. They are not perceived to be aspirational. This is a real pity, as overseas they are often sought-after ingredients and feature in high-end products. Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit in some of its fragrances – what a shame that most of us have never heard of this fruit!
SOUGHT AFTER: Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit from South Africa in its Boss The Scent fragrance range, according to Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.
There is a tremendous growth and interest in local design and fashion in this country. Maybe it is time that we also start rediscovering the fascinating botanical world that surrounds us. The precious knowledge of the medicinal and other uses of local plants is becoming extinct. It should concern all of us that such an important part of our heritage is vanishing.
BOTANICAL HERITAGE: The golden pagoda is another South African plant that Linda Song used as an inspiration for a fragrance accord.
Marie Salamagne might not have “been raised in the world of perfumery”, but this hasn’t stopped the 42-year-old perfumer from attracting attention with her various creations. These range from Alaïa Nude EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoires d’Orangers EDT and Aura Mugler EDT to Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP, Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace EDT, among others.
Since 2015, Marie Salamagne has been the de facto in-house perfumer for Parisian niche fragrance brand Atelier des Ors. She has created 11 unisex EDPs for the company.
ATELIER DES ORS AUBE RUBIS EDP: With notes of bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, sage, violet, iris, patchouli, vetiver and praline.
In this Fragroom interview, Marie Salamagne talks about her background, love of perfumery and her work for Atelier des Ors.
Where were you born?
I was born in Paris, France.
Where did you study perfumery?
I studied perfumery at ISIPCA. It is a renowned school of perfumery in Versailles near Paris.
Where are you based now?
I work in Paris for Firmenich.
Did you always want to be a perfumer?
Unlike many of my colleagues, I have not been raised in the world of perfumery. Coming from a family of doctors, after my baccalaureate I started studying medicine. At the time I wanted to be a child psychiatrist, but I quickly realised that it was not for me. I was studying chemistry when I discovered ISIPCA and the work of a perfumer. From that point it was an obvious choice for me.
“I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.”
ATELIER DES ORS BOIS SIKAR EDP: With notes of nutmeg, guaiac wood, styrax, cedar wood, cedar needles, tobacco leaf and vetiver.
What was the attraction of perfumery for you?
I’ve always been sensitive to “smell”, but I knew very little about the craft when I started. I quickly realised that the world of perfumery suited me to a tee. More than a special effort, it takes passion and very hard work to become a perfumer. I followed my intuition and the path of fragrances. Since then scents have always intrigued me. I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.
“I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection.”
How did your involvement with Atelier des Ors come about?
I received the first brief when the brand was under creation in 2012 from our Dubai team. Jean-Philippe Clermont [the founder of Atelier des Ors] was living in the Middle East at that time. His concept of creating this amazing collection, positioned as he said as “haute parfumerie”, was extremely appealing. I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection, sharing the same passion and vision. That’s how it all started.
PASSIONATE VISION: Jean-Philippe Clermont is the founder of Atelier des Ors.
He gave me the freedom of using the most beautiful ingredients to create his first collection made of five fragrances. These included: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert and Aube Rubis. We are still working on each of his fragrances together, in co-creation.
Did you create all of the Atelier des Ors fragrances?
Yes, I created the 11 fragrances of the collection.
What do you like about the brand?
The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie. I select materials that bring to life the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of the creative storytelling. As I work to sublimate them in my creations for Atelier des Ors, my craft helps to reconnect fragrance-lovers to the dreams and mysterious universe of luxury fragrances.
“The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie.”
ATELIER DES ORS LARMES DU DESERT EDP: With notes of incense, cypress, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, citruses, amber, benzoin and woodsy notes.
What was the general brief for creating the fragrances?
The first idea was to give back to fragrance a sense of mystery and dreams. And also draw inspiration from the crafts to offer olfactory bouquets with distinctive and captivating accords. The project engages with gold, which represents the noble and eternal side of the material and the brand itself.
ATELIER DES ORS CUIR SACRE: With notes of juniper berries, cardamom, cypress, incense, saffron, cedar needles, leather, vetiver and cypriol oil.
How much creative freedom do you have when creating the fragrances?
Passionate and imaginative, Jean Philippe shares his creative ideas with me when we start working on a new fragrance. They are nourished by his incredibly rich experience. His professional life includes various domains of excellence where “savoire-faire” is key. Then I feel free to translate his vision into fragrant poetry. We only keep real “coups de coeur”, as we both like to only pursue rare and unique experiences. I cherish the precious moments of the creative adventure. I enjoy true mutual respect, sharing, listening and a kindred open-minded spirit.
KINDRED SPIRITS: Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont work very closely together on the various fragrances.
One of my favourite fragrances from the collection is the very sensual Rose Omeyyade. How did you create that EDP?
Rose Omeyyade explores the captivating smell of damask rose, infused with velvet raspberry tones and intense woods, such as the mystical agarwood and gaiac wood.
Tell us more about the new White Collection.
The White Collection was released in 2018. It comprises three fragrances: Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. This collection is very special and creative.
White signifies purity, radiance, new beginnings. This new collection pays homage to the white space. It is very relative to art as directly inspired by the work of the artist Gustav Klimt, The Search of Happiness. It’s a monumental artwork completed for the 14th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Beethoven’s death. This artwork is organised in three chapters. Each one was the main inspiration of our three compositions.
INSPIRATION: The Atelier des Ors White Collection is inspired by Gustav Klimt’s The Search of Happiness.
Nuda Veritas has been made for Chapter 1. It is a floral creation, representing the lightness and the beginning of a new spiritual quest for the search of happiness. The composition opens with floral notes, delicate jasmine and osmanthus, combined with ambroxan and subtle woods.
Crepuscule des Ames has been made for Chapter 2. It’s a woody aromatic fragrance, evoking the duality within all of us. The duality is expressed by the usage of very contrasted ingredients. These include: bitter and luminous citruses, energising aromatic herbs, animalic notes and an addictive patchouli.
CONTINUITY: Marie Salamagne has also created the fragrances for the Atelier des Ors White Collection.
Choeur des Anges has been made for Chapter 3. It’s a fruity-floral fragrance, a celebration of joy, colours and happiness. It is made of blood orange, carrot seeds, with a floral heart and some radiant fruits. I have used osmanthus and a touch of honey.
Are you working on more Atelier des Ors fragrances?
Of course! We have a lot of new ideas and developments in progress. Jean-Philippe is always sharing new inspirations. This year will be very busy for Atelier des Ors.
Welcome to the first edition of Fragrance News Snippets for 2019. Perfume-land never sleeps and the first launches of the year are already on the shelves. The Fragrance News Snippets I have included in this edition tell us a lot about the state of the fragrance industry. It’s all about flankers galore, gender fluidity and upmarket fragrance collections on the market.
If you come across anything news-worthy you’d like to contribute to Fragrance News Snippets, please pop me a mail at rpgoller@gmail.com.An
IMAGE: FRANCISKURKDJIAN.COM
PERFUMER JEAN-FRANCOIS LATTY DIES
Jean-François Latty died in early January 2019. The veteran perfumer was best known for creating Givenchy III, YSL Jazz EDT and all of the fragrances for French niche brand, Téo Cabanel. He trained at Roure Bertrand Fils and Justin Dupont’s in-house perfumery school. Latty then worked for Roure, IFF and Takasago.
One of the first fragrances on the market for 2019 is Armani Code Absolu EDP. It’s the 16th flanker and/or limited edition in the Armani Code range, which was originally launched in 2004. Created by Antoine Maisondieu, it features notes of green mandarin, apple, orange blossom, nutmeg, carrot seeds suede, tonka beans, vanilla and woods. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this fragrance yet, so I can’t tell you if it’s a worthwhile purchase or just another churned-out flanker.
IMAGE: FRAGRANTICA.COM
NEW ADDITION TO THE YSL BLACK OPIUM LINE
And in another flanker episode, YSL launched Black Opium Intense this month. Black Opium was originally launched in 2014 and the line now includes 16 flankers and limited editions. The new EDP features notes of blue absinthe, boysenberry, jasmine sambac, orange blossom, black coffee, sandalwood, liquorice and vanilla. It was created by Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp, Marie Salamagne and Honorine Blanc.
Gucci has gone seriously upmarket with the launch of the Alchemist’s Garden “inspired by the art of alchemy influencing the old art of fragrance-making”. The collection is another collaboration between the Italian luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas. It consists of seven eaux de parfum, four perfumed oils, three acque profumate and a scented candle. With a nod to the trends for layering and customisation, the entire collection ensures 48 possible fragrance combinations.
Whether you call them unisex, shared, or (the clunky) gender neutral, they’ve been a growing trend in perfumery (although designer fragrances still have a lot of catching up to do). In an innovative twist, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has launched a duo of unisex fragrances: Gentle fluidity EDP (silver edition) and gentle Fluidity EDP (gold edition). They both have a focus on the same notes – juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods and vanilla – but are treated differently. An intriguing Fragrance News Snippet…
For one of the major players in the luxury goods industry, Louis Vuitton’s fragrance releases have not been part of the churn-‘em-out philosophy so prevalent in the designer fragrance category. The company launched its first fragrances in the 1920s and 1940s and then not much else. That’s why the launch of the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection in 2016 was such a big deal.
In a way, the brand had a lot of catching up to do, when compared to its contemporaries. But as a luxury brand that places a premium on attention to detail and craftsmanship, it could not appear like it was in a hurry to do so.
The Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection was launched with seven EDPs for women. These included: Apogée, Contre Moi, Dans la Peau, Matière Noire, Mille Feux, Rose des Vents and Turbulences. Since then the following EDPs have been added to the range: Au Hasard, L’Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage and Sur la Route (all for men); Attrape-Rivesand Le Jour Se Lève (for women); and Ombre Nomade (for men and women).
All of these fragrances are created by Louis Vuitton’s in house perfumer, the legendary Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. He has created Pasha de Cartier EDT, Issey Miyake l’eau d’Issey EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDT, Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar EDT, among others.
IT’S ALL ABOUT SERVICE AND THE EXPERIENCE
When I first stepped into the Louis Vuitton store in Sandton City, Johannesburg, I was immediately impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Although I didn’t look I was there to shop, shop, shop, they all treated me with respect and attention.
AT MY SERVICE: Fragrance manager Marco Matthews writing down all of the names of the Louis Vuitton fragrances on the blotting cards.
I was particularly impressed by the service I received from fragrance manager, Marco Matthews. He gave me over half an hour of his precious time to talk me through the various fragrances in the collection. A personalised consultation is standard for all shoppers.
“Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience.”
It was abundantly clear from what he told me that Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience. And I certainly felt that while trying the various scents on offer.
BAG OF SAMPLE TRICKS: I was given a set of samples from Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection to try at home.
I enjoyed all the fragrances I tried. For a brand that is often associated with conspicuous consumption and logo-a-go-go, the fragrances are notable for their discreet elegance. Also look out for the travel cases and sets.
My favourite would have to be Orage EDP. It opens with citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit. But it’s the play between the iris, vetiver, white musk, hedione and ISO E Super that make it really intriguing.
Louis Vuitton, Sandton City Shopping Centre, Shop U26, Upper Level, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 784 9854.
I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.
IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA
Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.
UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.
What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?
Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.
“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”
BLOODBELL HEATH
How did you get involved?
I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.
When did you arrive in Cape Town?
April 2017.
How long did you spend in the city?
Nine days.
GOLDEN PAGODA
What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?
Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.
IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING
What did you actually discover?
That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.
ERICA TAXIFOLIA
Who helped you make these discoveries?
I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.
COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.
Do many South Africans know about these plants?
This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]
“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”
The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.
It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.
Will the fragrances be available commercially?
These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.
MONA LAVENDER
What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?
This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.
ALOE ARBORESCENS
What perfume project are you working on now?
I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!
*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan.
