Category: FRAGRANCE

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Christian Dior Oud Ispahan Review

Dior Oud Ispahan

Christian Dior launched its luxury private fragrance range, La Collection Privée, in 2004 with three fragrances. Since then it has evolved into a fully fledged line of highly desirable scents divided into categories such as Sensuals, Orientals, Florals, Light Florals and Fruity Florals. The floral oriental Dior Oud Ispahan was launched in 2012 and is widely regarded as one of the best oud fragrances on the market.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Perfumer

As the brand’s perfumer, François Demachy has created most of the fragrances for La Collection Privée, including Oud Ispahan. The 70-year-old Frenchman is highly respected for his ability to balance commercial and creative success.

Examples of his other work include: Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT, Dior Sauvage (EDT and EDP) and several fragrances in the Dior Pour Homme range. Demachy also produces perfumes for other companies in the French luxury giant LVMH’s stable.

Dior Oud Ispahan - Francois Demachy

So what does Dior Oud Ispahan smell like?

This unisex EDP opens with the distinctive scent of labdanum. Its ambery, slightly leathery quality is warm and enticing. The fragrance sweetens slightly, as the rose note makes its appearance. Don’t be put off by the mention of this initial sweetness – it’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.

“It’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.”

The rose is perfectly partnered with the oud note that follows. Rose and oud combinations have always been popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. Dior Oud Ispahan takes its cue from this tradition, but it’s an undeniably Western take on oud.

While it’s not overwhelming or intensely “exotic”, there’s no doubting that this is the real thing in Dior Oud Ispahan. Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and Demachy makes the most of its woody, resinous aspects. That woodiness is complemented by the sandalwood and cedar notes.

To say that Dior Oud Ispahan is smooth is an understatement. Throughout its progression, it’s silky, yet full of character at the same time.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Packaging/Presentation

La Collection Privée is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.

The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the French luxury brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognisable Dior logo. Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Oud Ispahan has a rosy hue.

Dior Oud Ispahan

You can expect your bottle of Dior Oud Ispahan to be presented in a specially packaged box. The packaging ritual involves several stages – a box, tissue paper, a logoed perfumed cushion, a boxed fragrance, three samples of your choice in a logoed pouch, another bigger pouch, tissue paper sealed with Dior-logoed wax, your choice of colour of string to wrap the box and, the final touch, a Dior wax seal. This fastidious French attention to detail – complemented by professional and friendly customer service – leaves you in no doubt about the luxury experience you’re paying for.

R3 340 for 125ml, R4 965 for 250ml and R6 885 for 450ml.

For more oud options, read here. 

Read my review of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg here.

For more info on Dior’s La Collection Privée,  read here. 

Dior Oud Ispahan

 

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Jacques Huclier Interview: The Immersive Perfumer

Jacques Huclier

Image: Givaudan.

Jacques Huclier made his mark in spectacular fashion in 1996 when Mugler A*Men EDT was unleashed on the market. An audacious gourmand with lashings of caramel, coffee and patchouli, there was nothing like it at the time. More than 20 years later, this love-it-or-hate-it EDT is still in production. Its succession of flankers, all created by Jacques Huclier, is proof that not all follow-ups are a case of diminishing returns.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler A*Men EDT

While Jacques Huclier will always be known for Mugler A*Men, there’s far more to the Frenchman than this association. Over the years, he has produced numerous other notable fragrances. These include:

  • Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)
  • Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT (2011)
  • Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
  • Azzaro Chrome Pure EDT (2017)
  • Boucheron Quatre Absolue de Nuit Pour Homme (2017)
  • Roberto Cavalli Imperial Hyacinth EDP (2018)

Jacques Huclier - Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT

His work for Map of the Heart deserves a special mention. He began collaborating with this Australian niche fragrance brand in 2014.

Why is perfumery so important to you?

Perfume is my passion and an olfactive art – it is about both creation and creativity. It is always a challenge to create the perfect and most relevant fragrance. I relish this creative challenge due to my competitive spirit. I find the creative process of designing a fragrance tremendously exciting; it brings out the best in you when your ultimate goal is to win.

Jacques Huclier

What do you remember most from studies at ISIPCA?

ISIPCA is where I discovered the fascinating world of the senses, the amazing power of the sense of smell and the beauty of fragrance. It is also where I met fabulous and inspiring perfumers and knew this was the right career path for me.

“I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance.”

What didn’t they teach you at ISIPCA that you learned through experience?

I learned resilience. A most important and critical lesson! I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance. But I also noticed how exciting it is to develop beautiful accords and fragrances – it was already a real source of great happiness.

Did you have a mentor in your career?

Olivier Cresp and Pierre Bourdon were early mentors of mine. I had the wonderful and fortunate opportunity to work alongside them and to watch how they work and create.

INSPIRATION: Olivier Cresp was one of Jacques Huclier’s mentors.

How do you go about creating a fragrance?

I always start with a strong accord and signature. Uniqueness is key for me. At the same time, a fragrance has to be wearable, pleasant and deliver emotion.

My method is to work with short formulas as often as I can to ensure the result is a clear message. This allows me to control the formula and to really understand the balance of the ingredients.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

Research is also an important part of my creative method. I immerse myself in the brand or the individual I am designing for. I will visit a brand’s store, observe the consumer, experience the brand and the lifestyle.

You’re probably most well known for your Mugler A*Men creations. A blessing or a curse?

My Mugler A*Men creations are very meaningful to me. It’s been a blessing to collaborate with this iconic designer, who’s known for disruption and his own signature. A*Men was the first fragrance to use a coffee note. I am so proud of this fragrance and amazed by its fan community, who are highly loyal to it. It gives me great pleasure to smell someone wearing it when I walk down the street and catch their scent.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler Amen Pure Havane EDT

You’ve produced a number of fragrances for Map of the Heart. Why do you enjoy working with this brand?

It’s been over five years since I started my collaboration with the Map of the Heart team. This brand is true haute parfumerie and working with it allows me complete creative freedom without boundaries. It is a wonderful partnership with Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling [the company’s co-founders], as we have common knowledge and a synergy in our creative process. We share a passion for travel – always seeking unique atmospheres and destinations for our inspiration. I treasure this original brand and our special relationship.

Jacques Huclier - Map of the Heart Red Heart v.3 EDP

What would people be surprised to know about Jacques Huclier?

How adventurous I am as an intrepid explorer. I love sailing, hiking and travelling the world. These passions give me perspective, to see things from different angles, as well as a feeling of total freedom. There is nothing like the open sea before you, the wind in your sails, and the excitement of what you might discover.

For more info on Map of the Heart, read here.

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Oud Fragrances: The Variety Edition

Oud Fragrances

If there’s one ingredient in perfumery that’s guaranteed to get love-it-or-hate-it reactions, it’s rich and woody oud. Partly, this is because there are many mediocre oud fragrances on the market, but mostly it’s due to the unique qualities of the ingredient. Depending on how it’s used, oud can have a variety of characteristics: anything from musty and bittersweet to balsamic. A visit to a perfume counter will tell you how popular oud fragrances have become over the last decade. Of course, they have been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries.

Oud Fragrances

WHAT MAKES OUD SO SPECIAL?

According to Fragrantica, oud is the result of a fascinating process whereby the aquilaria tree species – found in south-east Asia, India and Bangladesh – is infected by a parasite. To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.

“To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.”

Various factors can influence the quality of oud, including the distillation process and the age of the tree. The very best oud is incredibly expensive, so most mainstream oud fragrances are based on a synthetic version or a blend of both natural and synthetic. Hence, the endless online debates about whether or not a fragrance is a real or synthetic oud.

PRECIOUS: The leaves of an aquilaria tree. Image: Chong Fat (Wikipedia).

Although there are many standouts here, this is not a definitive list of the best oud fragrances on the market. It also doesn’t include the huge variety of Middle Eastern oud fragrances. But it will give you a good sense of what’s available, especially for those who might have convinced themselves that oud is not for them. The names of perfumers (where known) and launch date have been placed in brackets after the name of each fragrance.

PURE OUD EDP BY KILIAN* (CALICE BECKER, 2009)

Key notes: Guaiac wood, saffron, agarwood, copahu balm, cypriol oil.

Wear it if… You want a heavy, pungent and uncompromising niche oud fragrance, with a strong leathery and woody aspect. Some might call it challenging, bitter and unwearable, so be warned if you’re looking for something more subtle. From the band’s Arabian Nights Collection, it’s decidedly masculine and makes a powerful statement.

Oud Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE OUD EDP (AURELIEN GUICHARD, 2016)

Key notes: Pear, raspberry, saffron, Bulgarian rose, orange flower, natural oud oil, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a great designer oud fragrance oud that doesn’t cost a fortune like many niche options, which claim to use more real oud. Gucci fragrances have been patchy over the years, but the Italian luxury brand hit the sweet spot with this unisex release. It’s smoky throughout, thanks to the incense and frankincense notes, sophisticated and sexy.

Oud Fragrances

CLEAN RESERVE SUEDED OUD EDP* (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2016)

Key notes: Incense oil, blue cypress, birch, red pimento, honeysuckle, temple oud, night-blooming jasmine, white magnolia, balsam fir, bushman’s candle, soft suede, patchouli, black amber, praline, musk, olibanum.

Wear it if… You want a clean and unisex niche oud that will surprise you. There are a lot officially listed notes in this fragrance, many of which you won’t be able to pick up. What does come through in this skin scent is the warm and musky quality of the suede, oud, musk, incense and amber notes. The praline note gives it a hint of just the right amount of sweetness.

Oud Fragrances

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2015)

Key notes: Sicilian bergamot, black pepper, saffron, rose, jasmine, agarwood, tobacco.

Wear it if… You want a super-elegant, smooth and toned-down oud experience. The oud in this fragrance is well balanced by the spices and florals. It’s from the brand’s high-quality Icon collection and the gold-encased bottle deserves a special mention for being of the best fragrance bottle designs in recent years.

Oud Fragrances

COMME DES GARCONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE, 2010)

Key notes: Vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, Virginia cedar, oud, cypress, pepper, bergamot, incense, nutmeg, cashmeran, caraway.

Wear it if… You want a highly rated wood fragrance, where oud is just one of the elements. The similar-ish Comme des Garçons Wonderoud EDP goes big on the oud, but Wonderwood’s balance between the various listed woods and spices is, in many ways, a better option. A good dose of vetiver adds to the woodiness.

Oud Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE EMERAUDE AGAR COLOGNE ABSOLUE* (JEROME EPINETTE, 2016)

Key notes: Calabrian bergamot, Siberian angelica, Vietnamese black pepper, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian geranium, Chinese eucalyptus, Malaysian agarwood, Indian sandalwood, Indian guaiac wood.

Wear it if… You want a very wearable oud fragrance with a fresh, green quality. Paris-based niche fragrance company Atelier Cologne is renowned for its citrus-infused scents. This EDP from its Haute Couture collection features some of the usual oud fragrance combos – for example, rose – but it’s the fresh notes – especially eucalyptus – that make it stand out.

Oud Fragrances

YSL M7 EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER & ALBERTO MORILLAS, 2002)

Key notes: Mandarin, bois de oud, patchouli, ciste, myrrh.

Wear it if… You want a seductive, smoky, slightly sweet oud fragrance. A reformulation of the classic and ground-breaking YSL M7, it’s a worthy purchase in its own right. A brief fresh opening makes way for an intriguing blend of patchouli, amber and myrrh, with a light treatment of oud in between.

Oud Fragrances

CREED ROYAL OUD MILLESIME EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION, 2011)

Key notes: Lemon, pink berries, bergamot, cedar, galbanum, angelica root, sandalwood, oud, Tonkin musk.

Wear it if… You want a seriously upmarket, luxurious interpretation of oud that’s signature scent material. This is expensive stuff (it’s Creed, after all), but for the price you’re getting a masterful and multi-faceted fragrance, from the citrus opener to the slightly sweet oud that’s not too dominant. It’s not an obvious oud fragrance and that’s part of its beauty.

Oud Fragrances

*Available from Skins Cosmetics South Africa. https://www.skins.co.za

 

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Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

HIGH PROFILE: A portrait of Coco Chanel in 1927, taken by Berenice Abbott. Image: Chanel.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

ALL AMERICAN: Coco Chanel in her suite at the Hotel Pierre during her first visit to New York City in 1931.

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

SUPER EIGHT: Olivier Polge used a variety of white musks to create Chanel 1957. Image: Chanel.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in  wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

 

 

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Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! 2019 EDT 

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round.  R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.

 

 
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Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP Review

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Creed. The name alone is enough to elicit hyper devotion and debate among its fans that sometimes borders on the religious. Founded in 1760, the Paris-based niche fragrance house is a father-and-son business that has created numerous classic fragrances through the generations. But if you were to insist on one that captures what the upmarket brand is all about, it would have to be the wonderfully named Creed Green Irish Tweed.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Perfumer

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation created this scent that was released in 1985. Tradition is very important to Creed, so all the family perfumers through the generations are given royal-sounding names.

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation is responsible for an impressive succession of Creed classics. These include: Aventus EDP, Bois du Portugal EDP, Erolfa EDP, Himalaya EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP and Virgin Island Water EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Olivier Creed Sixth Generation

IMAGE: creedperfume.com.au

There’s also much online speculation that the legendary Pierre Bourdon helped create Green Irish Tweed.

So what does Creed Green Irish Tweed Smell Like?

Some brands go to elaborate lengths to describe the inspiration behind their fragrances. Creed keeps it simple (and believable) for Green Irish Tweed: “A stroll through the Irish countryside.”

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean..” If this is what a walk through the Irish countryside is all about, then let’s continue the journey…

Creeed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Irish countryside

GOING GREEN: Creed Green Irish Tweed is inspired by a walk in the Irish countryside. IMAGE: ireland.com

The heart of the fragrance belongs to a compelling violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight woody focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and the iris note adds an element of powderiness.

And what about the musky ambergris that’s commonly listed in Creed fragrances and part of the reason why they are so expensive? If this rare by-product of the digestive system of the sperm whale is present in this scent, it’s certainly not as distinctive as the one found in Creed Millésime Impérial EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Almost 35 years since its launch, Creed Green Irish Tweed remains of the brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why. It’s a unique perfume that’s signature scent material.

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Memo Paris: Interview With Creative Director Clara Molloy

Memo Paris - Clara Molloy

STORYTELLER : Clara Molloy is the creative director of Memo Paris. Image: Memo.

Travel has always been a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. And Memo Paris excels at using this trope in its perfumes and story-telling. The Paris-based niche fragrance company was founded by husband and wife team, Clara (creative director) and John Molloy (president) in 2007. Their love for travel is reflected in all of the brand’s collections: Art Land, Cuir Nomades, Escales Extraordinaire, Graines Vagabondes and Les Echappées.

“Memo Paris has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection.”

Memo, named after Clara’s fondness for collecting her travel memories, has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection. It includes standouts such as French Leather EDP, Moroccan Leather EDP, Russian Leather EDP and the recently launched Oriental Leather EDP.

Memo Paris - Store Exterior

MADE IN PARIS: The exterior of the Memo store at 34 Rue Cambon, 75001, Paris. Image: Memo Paris.

Memo Italian Leather EDP opens with a greenish tomato note, which immediately lets you know this is not the usual leather fragrance. There’s a big dose of creamy vanilla throughout, which is a perfect partner for the buttery leather. Notes of galbanum, tolu balsam and benzoin just add to the sense of luxury.

Memo Paris - Italian Leather EDP

I have smelled many beautiful fragrances over the years. But it’s the special ones that really make an impression. Memo African Leather EDP belongs in this special category. It opens with a big dose of cardamom and saffron. The leather accord that follows is pronounced and rich and complemented by cumin, patchouli, oud and vetiver notes. It truly captures the smells of an African landscape.

Memo Paris - African Leather EDP

I’ve tried samples of various other Memo fragrances and what stands out for me is their undeniable quality and ability to transport the wearer with their well-crafted blend of superior ingredients.

I sent Clara some questions and this is what she had to say…

What was missing from the niche fragrance market when you decided to launch Memo?

We were sincerely not thinking about markets and markets shares when we launched our brand. We were thinking about doing the most beautiful brand we could imagine with a very qualitative approach.

“I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations.”

Has your founding inspiration changed at all since your launch in 2007?

Memo is about travelling and landscapes. This has not changed. I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations. Of course, over the years my curiosity has changed. I want to discover even more remote beautiful places and even more amazing perfumes.

Memo Paris - Store Interior

GOLD STANDARD: The luxurious interior of the Memo store in Paris. Image: Memo.

In what ways is Memo a luxury fragrance brand?

If luxury means quality, then we are a luxury fragrance brand. I see more myself as an independent artisan.

What is your role as creative director?

My role is to find stories.

Your husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder of Memo. Is it ever tricky working with him in both a business and personal capacity?

Is it very tricky to be married? Not for me. I love sharing my journey. Then the question of working or not working together is secondary. We have very different roles and we respect each other.

Memo Paris - John Molloy

PERFUME PARTNER: Clara’s husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder and president of the brand.

What is the company’s best-seller?

It depends on the country. It could be Inlé, Irish leather, French Leather, Marfa…

I’m a big fan of your Irish Leather EDP. How did you and perfumer Aliénor Massenet go about capturing the unique “Irishness” of this scent?

Thank you! My husband is Irish, so we had a lot of pression for this perfume. We always go back to his house in Ireland where his family raises horses. Our inspiration was the wind blowing on the grass there.

Memo Paris - Irish Leather EDP

All of your fragrances have been created by Aliénor Massenet. Why is she your nose of choice?

Most of them, yes. Because we can talk to each other. It is so difficult to find the right words for perfumes as they are abstract. With Aliénor, it is really easy. She gets what I am saying quickly and vice versa.

Memo Paris - Alienor Massenet

FROM ABSTRACTION TO REALITY: Aliénor Massenet has created most of the Memo fragrances.

What’s next for Memo?

A lot of novelties… Winter Palace has just been launched and we are all very excited. The subtleness of this ambery tea is beautiful.

Where do you think the niche sector is heading?

All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise there is no point in being niche.

Memo Paris fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. https://www.skins.co.za

Memo Paris - Winter Palace EDP

Image: Memo.

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Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Review

Ever since it was founded in 1916 in Parma, Italy, by the super-dapper Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma has been synonymous with luxury and the good life, Italian style. All serious perfume-lovers know Acqua di Parma Colonia, a 20th-century citrus classic. From the Colonia versions to the Blu Mediterraneo Collection, Acqua di Parma has built a thriving business on high-quality variations on the citrus theme. Perhaps the most intriguing of these is Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud. From the brand’s Ingredient Collection, it was launched in 2012.

Acqua di Parma Colonia

SO WHAT DOES ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA OUD SMELL LIKE?

The citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange open this fragrance in typically uplifting Acqua di Parma style.

The oud comes through quickly after that. Warm, sensual and smooth, without being overwhelming, it’s a refined take on the oud theme. The oud is accompanied and complemented by a strong and silky leather accord, which, for some reason, is not listed in the official notes. But make no mistake, it’s a big part of this fragrance. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

The base adds to the feeling of warmth with the notes of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood accord in perfect harmony.

VERDICT

Harmonious is a good way to describe this scent. Before you try it, you might think that the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess. When you wear it, you will see how all the elements work together to produce a scent that’s eminently elegante. As a concentrated cologne, it delivers good performance, which is not always the case with colognes.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

If you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud is the perfect choice.

It’s a pity that Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t list its perfumers, especially when they produce such good work.

PRICE

R3 375 (100ml) to R4 680 (180ml).

WHERE TO BUY IT

https://www.foschiniforbeauty.co.za/pdp/acqua-di-parma-colonia-oud-eau-de-cologne/_/A-000179AAOG2

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

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Maison Christian Dior – Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Perfume-lovers were in for the deluxe treatment when the first Maison Christian Dior on the African continent opened its doors in Johannesburg in 2018. We all know Dior for its haute couture, “new look” style and its associations with all things Parisian. So expectations were high of the luxury fragrances on offer. I’m not one for shopping malls, but I’ve popped into the boutique a few times to lap up the chic ambience. These are my impressions.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

CHIC EXPERIENCE: The exterior of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg. In the rear of the store, a video wall features footage of Dior’s famous home, Château de La Colle Noire, in the south of France. Image: Dior.

The look and feel of the store 

Sophisticated and modern, with reminders of Dior’s grand heritage. Don’t mistake the quietness of Maison Christian Dior, compared to many of the other shops in the centre, for a lack of business. It’s all about the quality of the shopper here, not the quantity.  Special touch: A video wall that features Dior’s property in the south of France, Château de La Colle Noire.

Taking its cue from the increasing demand for exclusive, high-quality fragrances, La Collection Privée Christian Dior was launched in 2004. Three fragrances – Bois d’Argent EDP, Eau Noire EDP and Cologne Blanche EDP – were available at that stage. The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals. Each fragrance comes in a sleek cylindrical bottle with a black magnetic cap, originally designed by then Christian Dior homme creative director, Hedi Slimane. 

“The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals.”

It has also expanded to include candles, bath and body products, and accessories. Most of the fragrances have been created by highly respected perfumer François Demachy.

The latest launch 

The fruity floral Holy Peony EDP was launched earlier in 2019. It’s a soft, pretty and slightly sweet take on peony, with a big helping of apricot rose. The composition also features notes of red fruits, wood and musk.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The best seller

South Africans like their fragrances potent and long-lasting. So it’s no surprise that the unisex Oud Ispahan, which was launched in 2014, does so well in Maison Christian Dior. With notes of smoky woods, rose, frankincense and resin, it’s a smooth and sophisticated oud.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

FRAGROOM favourite

Cuir Cannage EDP which, I am told, has been discontinued. Before it disappears from the shelves completely, make sure to grab a bottle of this beauty. Officially, it’s inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”, according to the brand’s website. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex. There’s no doubting this is a superb leather fragrance, but what really makes it so special is how well Demachy balanced it with the floral and woody aspects.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The service

The exterior of Maison Christian Dior might say intimidatingly exclusive, but the service is friendly and welcoming. Of course, I got good service, as the staff knew I was a blogger. However, I’ve watched them interacting with customers and they all received the same professional service. Hard selling is not Dior style and it’s good to know that staff have a history with the brand, so they know their stuff.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Verdict

Maison Christian Dior is all about the luxury experience. It’s the place to visit if you’re in search of high-quality, well-crafted perfumes with a sense of history. Attention to detail is premium level, especially when it comes to the packaging of purchases.

Contact details

Maison Christian Dior, Shop U315, Sandton City, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 010 001 2590. Email: storemanager@christiandior.co.za.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg 8

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Honorine Blanc Interview: The Perfectionist Perfumer

Honorine Blanc Portrait

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Self-proclaimed perfectionist Honorine Blanc is one of Firmenich’s master perfumers, alongside luminaries such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson. It’s easy to see why she has earned this accolade when you consider her many creations and her drive.

Before we get to the interview with Honorine Blanc, here are some essential facts about the passionate creator.

Honorine Blanc Portrait

HONORINE BLANC 101

Background: Born and raised in the Lebanon. Moved to Paris at the age of 16.

Education: Masters degree in Maths, Physics and Chemistry.

Perfume education: ISIPCA, Paris.

Mentors: Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm

Works for: Firmenich in New York.

Creations and co-creations include: Lanvin Rumeur 2 Rose EDP (2006), Ralph Lauren Polo Explorer EDT (2007, Beyoncé Heat Rush EDT (2010), Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Gold Couture EDP (2014), YSL Black Opium EDP (2014), Tom Ford Noir Anthracite EDP (2017), Lancôme La Nuit Trésor à la Folie (2018).

Favourite authors:  Stefan Zweig and Kahlil Gibran.

Favourite artist: Gerhard Richter.

Honorine Blanc

CREATIVE EXPRESSION: Honorine Blanc loves the works of Gerhard Richter.

What‘s the attraction of perfumery for you?

I enjoy this unique universe for both its technical and psychological facets. In a constant search for creating the right balance between beauty and addiction, I like to play with imperfections and try to master them. I define myself as a perfectionist.

“My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone.”

I love giving and sharing and never stop playing with boundaries and tensions to unveil the most surprising formulas. I’m passionate about being a trailblazer for young perfumers to be their own version of spectacular. I also adore transforming the magical way I feel fragrance into beautiful emotional experiences for those who wear my perfumes.

Honorine Blanc - YSL Black Opium EDP

Where did you study perfumery? What do you remember most from that experience?

I went to ISIPCA Paris and was then taken under the wings of Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm – two of perfumery’s greatest icons – at IFF, New York. But formal study is just part of the journey. I’m always learning. My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone. What I remember? To create from the heart. Follow my instinct. Be original. I would never betray myself. My creations are part of me.

Honorine Blanc - Sophia Grojsman

MENTOR: Honorine Blanc received invaluable guidance from the great Sophia Grojsman.

What fragrances have you created recently? Please tell us about them.

Woman by Calvin Klein EDP. What a wonderful challenge!  Today’s woman is so multifaceted. Both simple and complex, empowered and vulnerable. I sought to express that richness in this fragrance. For Éclat de Vert Parfum by Aerin, throughout the creative process, I didn’t follow the trend, but played with iconic natural ingredients to create a very feminine structure. 

Honorine Blanc - Calvin Klein Women EDP

IMAGE: ro.calvinklein.com.

What trend in modern perfumery are you most excited about?

I prefer not to think in terms of trends, as we’re a world of individuals. But well-being is definitely the new luxury, along with a return to nature.

Do you have a favourite fragrance?

The distinctive fragrance of early morning. The perfume of skin. All of my creations and everything I’ve yet to create.

Have you ever had to deal with the disappointment of a client wanting to dilute your fragrance?

The development process may sometimes bring some frustrations. But we respect each other. I listen with my heart if they ask for changes and I also encourage them to open up to feeling the fragrance my way.

Honorine Blanc - Aerin Éclat de Vert Parfum

IMAGE: aerin.com.

What do you consider to be the highlight of your career?

Being acknowledged by my clients and peers is key. I love to feel there is always another highlight waiting to surprise me. What’s important is that I wake up every day with new ideas and full of creative energy.

Is perfumery still a male-dominated industry?

No, I don’t think so. The creator’s perception of the world – our emotions, feelings and our personal universe – make the difference. Perfumery, in its purest sense, is about being authentic, individual and open to emotion. Man or woman, creative spirits can shine in the perfume industry if they’re brave and humble enough.

Honorine Blanc - Cacharel Yes I Am EDP

What project are you working on next?

All will soon be revealed! I’m very busy and that’s exactly how I like it.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, http://www.fragrance.org