Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.
SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

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Best Designer Fragrances Of 2019: The Flankers Edition – Dior Joy Intense, YSL Y EDP, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée, Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal, Dunhill Century Blue, Bulgari Man Wood Neroli, Oscar de la Renta Bella Rosa, Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

For my last round-up of the year, best designer fragrances of 2019, I thought I would take a look at some of the latest flankers on the market. For better and for worse, these are the mainstay of the designer fragrance business model. Release a new pillar fragrance and then follow it with numerous variations on the theme until it has run its course.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

The best flankers bring something new while staying true to the original. The rest (and there are a lot of those) just add to consumer confusion and the idea that designer brands are void of any creativity.

This selection of best designer fragrances of 2019 has several pleasant surprises. Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the scent.

Which are your best designer fragrances of 2019?

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

DIOR JOY EDP INTENSE (FRANCOIS DEMACHY)

When Dior Joy EDP was launched in 2018, it caused a stir, for the wrong reasons. Many people were unhappy that the French luxury fashion company had appropriated the name from the Jean Patou classic. I liked this scent in a “nice” kind of way.

Dior Joy Intense is a far more interesting and beautiful floral creation. The citrus opening of bergamot and mandarin will be the first to grab you. They are followed by a big dose of Grasse grandiflorum jasmine, which stays on the right side of sweetness, and a hint of Grasse centifolia rose in the background.

The drydown of vanilla, musk and sandalwood is creamy in all the right ways. It’s a seductive and sophisticated treat from start to finish.

R1 795 for 50ml and R2 765 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

YSL Y EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

In 2017, YSL launched its new fragrance, Y, in an EDT format. It’s pleasant-enough stuff, but it’s the EDP that’s getting attention for all the right reasons.  

It makes its mark right from the start with a trio of fresh notes, bergamot, ginger and apple. The apple note, in particular, is a standout and gives it a juicy and slightly sweet bite. A herbal facet follows in the form of a pronounced sage note. Juniper berries and geranium add to the freshness. The base is woody, with a big dose of amberwood. Vanilla-ish tonka bean is also prominent in the drydown.

It’s all too easy to criticise YSL Y EDP as safe, reliable and even a crowd-pleaser. Nothing wrong with that, especially when it’s done so well.

R1 860 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

TWILLY D’HERMES EAU POIVREE EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

When Twilly d’Hermès was launched in 2017, it was wonderful proof that a fragrance marketed at young women needn’t be a cloyingly predictable confection. It could actually be intriguing and gorgeous enough to have appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Does Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée continue the great work? You bet. The original was defined by the dynamic between ginger and tuberose. This one focuses on three key notes: the balance between pink pepper and rose, settling on a base of woody and earthy patchouli.

Soft and soothing, it’s a delightfully simple yet elegant composition that will once again appeal to those with more mature tastes.

R1 080 for 30ml, R1 620 for 50ml and R2 215 for 85ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019
SOFT SKILLS: Will Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivrée get your vote as one of the best designer fragrances of 2019?
DUNHILL CENTURY BLUE EDP

I have a soft spot for Dunhill fragrances, as they capture understated elegance so well. Dunhill Century Blue, the follow-up to Dunhill Century, is no exception.

There’s a fresh citrus intro, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin orange, which continues throughout the fragrance’s progression. Spicy ginger amplifies the cleanness. It’s intermingled with a leathery orris note. The base warms up with the addition of amber, with a sprinkle of sea salt in the background.

There are no surprises here, but look no further if you want a scent that’s grown-up and strikes a skilful balance between tradition and modernity.

R1 495 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM ROYAL EDP (MAIA LERNOUT)

The Lebanese fashion designer had a huge hit on his hands when Francis Kurkdjian created Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP in 2011, with its accents of African orange blossom, jasmine, honey and patchouli. It has generated several flankers since then, including Rose Couture, Eclat d’Or and Le Parfum in White.

Apparently, the perfumer Maia Lernout produced Elie Saab Le Parfum Royal under the guidance of its original creator. It opens with a citrus burst of mandarin essence, which develops in a floral direction with two variations of rose: Turkish absolute and Bulgarian.

But this is without a doubt a patchouli bomb. You’ll either love its bold richness, or find it a tad overpowering.

R975 for 30ml, R1 540 for 50ml and R2 080 for 90ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The original Bulgari Man was launched in 2010 and has spawned several successful flankers over the last decade, including Black Orient and Black Cologne.

The latest is a citrusy spin on its forerunner, Bulgari Man Wood. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedar and cypriol oil. There’s a big dose of ambroxan in this EDP. Depending on your views of this synthetic form of ambroxan, it will be good or bad news.

While it’s not the most exciting fragrance, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance and is super reliable.

R1 260 for 60ml, R1 680 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BELLA ROSA EDP (HARRY FREMONT)

Like its predecessor, Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca, Bella Rosa comes in one of the prettiest bottles in the biz.

Where the original was all about white florals, the first flanker has a pink rose focus. It begins with a fresh touch of mandarin orange and freesia. That freshness continues through to the pink rose heart, which is soft and powdery, with jasmine in support. Amber stands out in the drydown and patchouli tempers the sweetness.

It’s romantic and very well crafted. This should come as no surprise. It was created by master perfumer Harry Fremont, who also produced the original.

R995 for 100ml.

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS LEGEND EDP (DOMITILLE BERTIER & NICOLAS BEAULIEU)

Originally launched in 2013, Invictus has been one of Paco Rabanne’s big sellers this decade. This is its fifth flanker/limited edition. I’ve never really got into the fragrance. Perhaps I was put off by the naff marketing.

That said, I’ve been enjoying this aquatic in the searing heat we’ve been having here recently in Johannesburg, in particular the salty opening. The marine vibe and amber dominate the scent, but are contrasted with notes of bay leaf, spice and geranium for interest.

It’s not going to win any trophies (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for originality, but works a treat as an everyday fragrance in summer.

R1 205 for 50ml and R1 585 for 100ml.

Best Designer Fragrances of 2019

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Frédéric Malle Une Rose Review: A Dark, Wine-Soaked Classic

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

When Frédéric Malle launched his niche fragrance company, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, in 2 000, it was a novel idea for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle. Since then the Paris-based niche fragrance company has built its sought-after reputation on a succession of high-quality, classic releases created by the world’s top perfumers, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti. Launched in 2003 and created by Edouard Fléchier, Frédéric Malle Une Rose EDP is one of these classics.

Perfumer

By modern standards, Fléchier isn’t a prolific perfumer, but the Frenchman is highly regarded for creations such as Davidoff EDT, Montana Parfum d’Homme, Christian Lacroix C’est la Vie EDP and Frédéric Malle Lys Mediterranee EDP. His place in perfume history is assured with the 80s classic Christian Dior Poison. Most recently, in 2018, he created Aramis Tobacco Reserve EDP.

SO WHAT DOES UNE ROSE SMELL LIKE?

There’s no doubt that this is a rose fragrance from the opening, but it’s no ordinary rose. It’s rich, deep and full bodied with fruity and honey undertones, courtesy of the Turkish rose absolute. The production of this extract is a costly process, hence its use only in the finest perfumes. This rose is prominent throughout the stages of the fragrance, but its character morphs as other notes come into play. At times, there’s a slight sweetness to it, but mostly it’s dramatic and uncompromising.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose

While taking in the beauty of this rose, the wine dregs add further character and depth to the mix. They bring woodiness to the scent. Geranium is often paired with rose in perfumery and it’s used to great effect in Frédéric Malle Une Rose, adding a herbal facet.

“While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown.”

While many rose fragrances peter out with blandness, Une Rose is increasingly intriguing as it progresses to its drydown. The base notes of castoreum and vetiver work well together to complement the earthiness of the truffle accord. Like its edible counterpart, this accord is not for everyone and emphasises the dark aspect of the rose.

Remarkably authentic from start to finish, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a standout in a category where there’s no shortage of competition. It’s expensive, but well worth every hard-earned cent. Sophisticated and luxurious, Frédéric Malle Une Rose is a top choice for rose perfume aficionados. Those who are new to rose perfumes might find it a bit overpowering. It will appeal to anyone who values craftsmanship at its best. Officially a fragrance for women, it’s perfectly unisex.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Something interesting happened in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was appointed creative director of Gucci. Apart from a new direction for the Italian luxury brand’s collections, it started to take much-needed bold risks with its fragrances, too. This was exemplified by the unusual leather fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP and the heavy florals of Gucci Bloom EDP. The recent launch of Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur EDP builds on that momentum.

It’s a unisex scent, which is pretty much standard in the niche category. But it’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance. Gucci also claims that it’s innovative in that it establishes a new olfactive family, mineral aromatic, but more about that below.

“It’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance.”

Perfumer

Alberto Morillas has created all of the recent Gucci releases. The Spaniard is one of the most prolific perfumers of our time and is well known for a slew of commercial classics. These include Bulgari Man EDT, cK One EDT, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT, Givenchy Pi EDT, Mugler Cologne, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT, Versace Pour Homme EDT and YSL M7 EDT. In 2015, he launched his own perfume company, Mizensir, in Geneva, Switzerland.

The brand stresses that Morillas created Memoire d’une Odeur in close collaboration with Michele. This kind of partnership is not always the case in the creation of a designer fragrance.

MAKING MEMORIES: Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele with Harry Styles, one of the stars of the Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur ad campaign, at the Met Gala in May 2019. Image: Gucci.com.
SO WHAT DOES GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR SMELL LIKE?

Memoire d’une Odeur is inspired by the power of memories and their intimate link with the sense of smell.

The first thing that is noticeable about this fragrance is its camomile note. Morillas used the Roman version, which has been grown in the city for a number of centuries. It’s known for its sweetness, but here it has more of a herbal and green character.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Camomile is commonly paired with jasmine, so it’s no surprise to see the perfumer making use of this duo in the heart of the fragrance. He used an exclusive version of the floral – Indian coral jasmine – to give it a honeyed aspect. It’s not sweet or overpowering in the least. A big dose of musk brings cosy warmth. The woody drydown features notes of cedar and sandalwood. Vanilla enhances the creaminess of the latter.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

What about the claim that this pairing of camomile and jasmine sees the creation of a new olfactive family: mineral aromatic? It’s a little over the top, as it’s not the first time this combination has been used in perfumery. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that Gucci should be applauded for trying something different and that’s not trend-driven.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

There are already many negative online reviews on this fragrance. Perhaps the high-profile media campaign across all channels created the wrong kind of expectations that it would be an intense experience. Instead, Memoire d’une Odeur is a soothing and soft scent. Using the memories analogy, it’s hazy and blurred, rather than vivid and hyper real. This makes it a far more interesting proposition.

R1 195 for 40ml, R1 635 for 60ml and R2 225 for 100ml. For more information, read here.. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence
MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

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Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

Vetiver Fragrances

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Vetiver Fragrances

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk. 

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

Vetiver Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

Vetiver Fragrances

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

Vetiver Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

Vetiver Fragrances

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

Vetiver Fragrances

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

Vetiver Fragrances

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

Vetiver Fragrances

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves. 

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

Vetiver Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

Vetiver Fragrances

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Vetiver Fragrances

 

 

 

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Dior Sauvage Parfum Review

The arrival of Dior Sauvage Parfum in September 2019 is no surprise. The French luxury brand launched Dior Sauvage EDT in 2015 and Dior Sauvage EDP in 2018. Both have been huge successes. The fact that Chanel had also launched the parfum version of its mega-seller, Bleu de Chanel, in 2018 meant it was just a matter of time for Dior Sauvage Parfum to hit the shelves.

PERFUMER

All three versions of Dior Sauvage have been created by François Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer. Demachy is something of a legend in fragrance circles and has created a number of standouts in his illustrious career. These include Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT and numerous fragrances for Dior La Collection Privée.

Dior Sauvage Parfum - François Demachy
Image: Dior.
SO WHAT DOES DIOR SAUVAGE PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of Dior Sauvage Parfum is all about freshness. Calabrian bergamot and mandarin notes give it some juicy oomph, while cardamom brings a dash of warm spice and elemi adds an element of smokiness. Taking their cue from the cardamom and elemi, Virginia cedar and a leather accord add more warmth. A raspberry note is just detectable in the background.

“The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.”

But it’s the smooth and creamy sandalwood that’s really prominent in this stage of the fragrance’s progression. The brand claims that this ingredient is sourced from a Sri Lankan plantation where the trees are grown wild after initially being cultivated for a few years. The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.

Dior Sauvage Parfum is smoother, richer and more sophisticated than its predecessors. Unlike them, it is not defined by a big dose of ambroxan. For a parfum, its performance is not particularly powerful, which might bother those who want their fragrances on the “beastly” side. But if you prefer a more personal experience with your fragrance of choice, you will find much to enjoy.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

So the big question: Which version is better? I prefer the parfum for its subtlety and the way it adroitly marries the two sides of its character: freshness and smoothness. The first few times I tried it, I liked it, but didn’t really notice it much. The more I wear and smell it, the more I am loving Demachy’s nocturnal direction.

R1 745 for 60ml and R2 430 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

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Boozy Fragrances: 9 Of The Best

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

We all know that alcohol is a major component of most perfumes. But that’s not the subject of this list. I’m talking about the special appeal of boozy fragrances. They often have something seductive and mysterious about them.

The variety of boozy notes ranges from the familiar to the exotic. Rum, whiskey, gin and absinthe notes are popular choices when it comes to boozy fragrances. But you can also find scents with sake, tequila and white wine notes. Boozy fragrances tend to range from the heavy and noticeable to the subtle and nuanced. I’ve included a mix of those styles here. Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

PENHALIGON’S JUNIPER SLING EDT* (OLIVIER CRESP)

Key notes: Cinnamon, orange brandy, angelica, juniper berry, cardamom, leather, black pepper, orris wood, brown sugar, black cherry, vetiver, ambrox.

Wear it if… You want the unmistakable aromatic waft of gin. Inspired by the quality of London dry gin, juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive flavour, open this EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern classic than its boozy intro. A cocktail of citrus, spice and a hint of sugar all complement each other. Vetiver-lovers will also appreciate its presence. This is a skin scent, so if you’re looking for a power performer, alas, this one is not for you.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

JOHN VARVATOS DARK REBEL EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

Key notes: Jamaican rum absolute, Cuban sugarcane, davana essence, cardamom absolute, clary sage-enriched essence, black leather, fir balsam, nutmeg, black pepper, styrax absolute, tobacco leaf accord, Mexican black vanilla, akigalawood, cade essence, castoreum, balsawood. 

Wear it if… You want a designer fragrance that oozes rock ’n roll attitude, even if you’re not a rebel at heart. As always, there’s an intimidatingly long list of notes in this John Varvatos 2015 release. To simplify things, it opens with a shot of rum that develops with sensual facets of tobacco, leather and woods. It gets the balance between sweet and dark just right.

Boozy Fragrances - John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT

PENHALIGON’S MUCH ADO ABOUT THE DUKE EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Key notes: Rose, leather, gin, black pepper, wood.

Wear it if… You want a very British niche fragrance. The niche heritage brand launched its charming Portraits collection in 2016. It features an assortment of aristocratic characters and EDPs with names such as Roaring Radcliff, The Blazing Mr Sam and Terrible Teddy. Although rose is the focus of this scent, there’s a lovely dash of gin that’s very elegant in its simplicity. You’ll be paying top dollar for this one, but wait till you see the packaging, from the bottle’s cap to the ornate box it comes in.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Much Ado About The Duke EDP

CAROLINA HERRERA CH MEN PRIVE EDP

Key notes: Grapefruit, pomelo, whiskey, frozen lavender, sage, red thyme, cardamom, leather, benzoin, tonka bean, wood.

Wear it if… You want a super-smooth and -sophisticated scent. There’s good reason why this release from 2015 is regarded as one of the best Carolina Herrera releases in recent years. It opens with a warm and understated waft of whiskey enhanced by cardamom, leather and tonka bean notes. It’s a seamless blend that’s tailor-made for the office and fancy occasions.

Boozy Fragrances - Carolina Herrera CH Men Prive EDP

KILIAN VODKA ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

Key notes: Cardamom, coriander, aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss, ambroxan, sandalwood.

Wear it if… You want an upmarket niche fragrance scent with a vodka-lite vibe. It must be Kilian Hennessy’s cognac-making heritage, as several of his fragrances have a boozy character, including Single Malt EDP, Straight to Heaven EDP and Apple Brandy EDP. Although vodka is not an officially listed note in this unisex EDP, the opening notes of cardamom, coriander and aldehydes skilfully create the effect of this spirit on ice. It’s a light treatment that’s followed by pronounced notes of rose, oakmoss and cardamom.

Boozy Fragrances - Kilian Vodka On The Rocks EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Key notes: Black currant, wormwood, angelica, ginger, patchouli, pepper, nutmeg, star anise, cloves, incense, balsam fir, pine tree needles.

Wear it if… You want a classic scent that’s full of intriguing nuances. A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This is not one of those fragrances. Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, headlines this unisex EDP as its opening note. The initial herbal effect is carried through to the heart, with the addition of spices. It all settles beautifully on a woody and smoky base.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Key notes: Precious aged rum, black cardamom, Taif rose, tuberose, tanned leather accord, oud accord.

Wear it if… You want a sexy oriental fragrance with a hint of rum. Bulgari Man was originally launched in 2010 and Black Orient, which was launched in 2016, is one of its best flankers. A rum and cardamom combo sets the tone for this EDP. The floral heart gives way to an irresistible leather-oud combo. It’s straightforward stuff, but highly effective in the way all the notes work together.

Boozy Fragrances - Bulgari Man Black Orient EDP

BENTLEY FOR MEN INTENSE EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

Key notes: Bergamot, black pepper, bay leaf, clary sage, African geranium, cinnamon, rum, wood, leather, benzoin, incense, cedar, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a solid and timeless fragrance. Many people are surprised to find out that Bentley is in the fragrance game. What’s not surprising is the quality of releases from the British luxury automotive brand. All their fragrances have been created by top perfumers. Launched in 2013, Bentley for Men EDT set the luxurious and sophisticated tone for their scents. Its first flanker, Bentley for Men Intense EDP, took it to another level of classiness. The rum note stands out in this oriental-spicy composition, with incense, leather and wood adding to its appeal.

Boozy Fragrances - Bentley For Men Intense EDP

CREED ROYAL MAYFAIR EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Key notes: British gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine, Duke of Windsor roses, Bahamian orange, Canadian cedar, Australian eucalyptus.

Wear it if… You want a posh scent with British sensibilities. There’s good reason why I often include Creed fragrances on my “best of” lists. They are high-quality releases that reflect their inspiration so well. Inspired by the upmarket London suburb of Mayfair, which also happens to be home to the brand’s London boutique, Royal Mayfair is a luxurious fresh, green scent. The gin opening sets the scene and is followed by standout notes of rose and eucalyptus.

Boozy Fragrances - Creed Royal Mayfair EDP

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

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Christian Dior Oud Ispahan Review

Dior Oud Ispahan

Christian Dior launched its luxury private fragrance range, La Collection Privée, in 2004 with three fragrances. Since then it has evolved into a fully fledged line of highly desirable scents divided into categories such as Sensuals, Orientals, Florals, Light Florals and Fruity Florals. The floral oriental Dior Oud Ispahan was launched in 2012 and is widely regarded as one of the best oud fragrances on the market.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Perfumer

As the brand’s perfumer, François Demachy has created most of the fragrances for La Collection Privée, including Oud Ispahan. The 70-year-old Frenchman is highly respected for his ability to balance commercial and creative success.

Examples of his other work include: Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT, Dior Sauvage (EDT and EDP) and several fragrances in the Dior Pour Homme range. Demachy also produces perfumes for other companies in the French luxury giant LVMH’s stable.

Dior Oud Ispahan - Francois Demachy

So what does Dior Oud Ispahan smell like?

This unisex EDP opens with the distinctive scent of labdanum. Its ambery, slightly leathery quality is warm and enticing. The fragrance sweetens slightly, as the rose note makes its appearance. Don’t be put off by the mention of this initial sweetness – it’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.

“It’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.”

The rose is perfectly partnered with the oud note that follows. Rose and oud combinations have always been popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. Dior Oud Ispahan takes its cue from this tradition, but it’s an undeniably Western take on oud.

While it’s not overwhelming or intensely “exotic”, there’s no doubting that this is the real thing in Dior Oud Ispahan. Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and Demachy makes the most of its woody, resinous aspects. That woodiness is complemented by the sandalwood and cedar notes.

To say that Dior Oud Ispahan is smooth is an understatement. Throughout its progression, it’s silky, yet full of character at the same time.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Packaging/Presentation

La Collection Privée is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.

The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the French luxury brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognisable Dior logo. Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Oud Ispahan has a rosy hue.

Dior Oud Ispahan

You can expect your bottle of Dior Oud Ispahan to be presented in a specially packaged box. The packaging ritual involves several stages – a box, tissue paper, a logoed perfumed cushion, a boxed fragrance, three samples of your choice in a logoed pouch, another bigger pouch, tissue paper sealed with Dior-logoed wax, your choice of colour of string to wrap the box and, the final touch, a Dior wax seal. This fastidious French attention to detail – complemented by professional and friendly customer service – leaves you in no doubt about the luxury experience you’re paying for.

R3 340 for 125ml, R4 965 for 250ml and R6 885 for 450ml.

For more oud options, read here. 

Read my review of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg here.

For more info on Dior’s La Collection Privée,  read here. 

Dior Oud Ispahan

 

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Oud Fragrances: The Variety Edition

Oud Fragrances

If there’s one ingredient in perfumery that’s guaranteed to get love-it-or-hate-it reactions, it’s rich and woody oud. Partly, this is because there are many mediocre oud fragrances on the market, but mostly it’s due to the unique qualities of the ingredient. Depending on how it’s used, oud can have a variety of characteristics: anything from musty and bittersweet to balsamic. A visit to a perfume counter will tell you how popular oud fragrances have become over the last decade. Of course, they have been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries.

Oud Fragrances

WHAT MAKES OUD SO SPECIAL?

According to Fragrantica, oud is the result of a fascinating process whereby the aquilaria tree species – found in south-east Asia, India and Bangladesh – is infected by a parasite. To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.

“To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.”

Various factors can influence the quality of oud, including the distillation process and the age of the tree. The very best oud is incredibly expensive, so most mainstream oud fragrances are based on a synthetic version or a blend of both natural and synthetic. Hence, the endless online debates about whether or not a fragrance is a real or synthetic oud.

PRECIOUS: The leaves of an aquilaria tree. Image: Chong Fat (Wikipedia).

Although there are many standouts here, this is not a definitive list of the best oud fragrances on the market. It also doesn’t include the huge variety of Middle Eastern oud fragrances. But it will give you a good sense of what’s available, especially for those who might have convinced themselves that oud is not for them. The names of perfumers (where known) and launch date have been placed in brackets after the name of each fragrance.

PURE OUD EDP BY KILIAN* (CALICE BECKER, 2009)

Key notes: Guaiac wood, saffron, agarwood, copahu balm, cypriol oil.

Wear it if… You want a heavy, pungent and uncompromising niche oud fragrance, with a strong leathery and woody aspect. Some might call it challenging, bitter and unwearable, so be warned if you’re looking for something more subtle. From the band’s Arabian Nights Collection, it’s decidedly masculine and makes a powerful statement.

Oud Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE OUD EDP (AURELIEN GUICHARD, 2016)

Key notes: Pear, raspberry, saffron, Bulgarian rose, orange flower, natural oud oil, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a great designer oud fragrance oud that doesn’t cost a fortune like many niche options, which claim to use more real oud. Gucci fragrances have been patchy over the years, but the Italian luxury brand hit the sweet spot with this unisex release. It’s smoky throughout, thanks to the incense and frankincense notes, sophisticated and sexy.

Oud Fragrances

CLEAN RESERVE SUEDED OUD EDP* (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2016)

Key notes: Incense oil, blue cypress, birch, red pimento, honeysuckle, temple oud, night-blooming jasmine, white magnolia, balsam fir, bushman’s candle, soft suede, patchouli, black amber, praline, musk, olibanum.

Wear it if… You want a clean and unisex niche oud that will surprise you. There are a lot officially listed notes in this fragrance, many of which you won’t be able to pick up. What does come through in this skin scent is the warm and musky quality of the suede, oud, musk, incense and amber notes. The praline note gives it a hint of just the right amount of sweetness.

Oud Fragrances

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2015)

Key notes: Sicilian bergamot, black pepper, saffron, rose, jasmine, agarwood, tobacco.

Wear it if… You want a super-elegant, smooth and toned-down oud experience. The oud in this fragrance is well balanced by the spices and florals. It’s from the brand’s high-quality Icon collection and the gold-encased bottle deserves a special mention for being of the best fragrance bottle designs in recent years.

Oud Fragrances

COMME DES GARCONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE, 2010)

Key notes: Vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, Virginia cedar, oud, cypress, pepper, bergamot, incense, nutmeg, cashmeran, caraway.

Wear it if… You want a highly rated wood fragrance, where oud is just one of the elements. The similar-ish Comme des Garçons Wonderoud EDP goes big on the oud, but Wonderwood’s balance between the various listed woods and spices is, in many ways, a better option. A good dose of vetiver adds to the woodiness.

Oud Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE EMERAUDE AGAR COLOGNE ABSOLUE* (JEROME EPINETTE, 2016)

Key notes: Calabrian bergamot, Siberian angelica, Vietnamese black pepper, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian geranium, Chinese eucalyptus, Malaysian agarwood, Indian sandalwood, Indian guaiac wood.

Wear it if… You want a very wearable oud fragrance with a fresh, green quality. Paris-based niche fragrance company Atelier Cologne is renowned for its citrus-infused scents. This EDP from its Haute Couture collection features some of the usual oud fragrance combos – for example, rose – but it’s the fresh notes – especially eucalyptus – that make it stand out.

Oud Fragrances

YSL M7 EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER & ALBERTO MORILLAS, 2002)

Key notes: Mandarin, bois de oud, patchouli, ciste, myrrh.

Wear it if… You want a seductive, smoky, slightly sweet oud fragrance. A reformulation of the classic and ground-breaking YSL M7, it’s a worthy purchase in its own right. A brief fresh opening makes way for an intriguing blend of patchouli, amber and myrrh, with a light treatment of oud in between.

Oud Fragrances

CREED ROYAL OUD MILLESIME EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION, 2011)

Key notes: Lemon, pink berries, bergamot, cedar, galbanum, angelica root, sandalwood, oud, Tonkin musk.

Wear it if… You want a seriously upmarket, luxurious interpretation of oud that’s signature scent material. This is expensive stuff (it’s Creed, after all), but for the price you’re getting a masterful and multi-faceted fragrance, from the citrus opener to the slightly sweet oud that’s not too dominant. It’s not an obvious oud fragrance and that’s part of its beauty.

Oud Fragrances

*Available from Skins Cosmetics South Africa. https://www.skins.co.za