Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

Posted on

Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

Vetiver Fragrances

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Vetiver Fragrances

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk. 

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

Vetiver Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

Vetiver Fragrances

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

Vetiver Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

Vetiver Fragrances

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

Vetiver Fragrances

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

Vetiver Fragrances

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

Vetiver Fragrances

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves. 

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

Vetiver Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

Vetiver Fragrances

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Vetiver Fragrances

 

 

 

Posted on

Dior Sauvage Parfum Review

The arrival of Dior Sauvage Parfum in September 2019 is no surprise. The French luxury brand launched Dior Sauvage EDT in 2015 and Dior Sauvage EDP in 2018. Both have been huge successes. The fact that Chanel had also launched the parfum version of its mega-seller, Bleu de Chanel, in 2018 meant it was just a matter of time for Dior Sauvage Parfum to hit the shelves.

PERFUMER

All three versions of Dior Sauvage have been created by François Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer. Demachy is something of a legend in fragrance circles and has created a number of standouts in his illustrious career. These include Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT and numerous fragrances for Dior La Collection Privée.

Dior Sauvage Parfum - François Demachy

Image: Dior.

SO WHAT DOES DIOR SAUVAGE PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of Dior Sauvage Parfum is all about freshness. Calabrian bergamot and mandarin notes give it some juicy oomph, while cardamom brings a dash of warm spice and elemi adds an element of smokiness. Taking their cue from the cardamom and elemi, Virginia cedar and a leather accord add more warmth. A raspberry note is just detectable in the background.

“The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.”

But it’s the smooth and creamy sandalwood that’s really prominent in this stage of the fragrance’s progression. The brand claims that this ingredient is sourced from a Sri Lankan plantation where the trees are grown wild after initially being cultivated for a few years. The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.

Dior Sauvage Parfum is smoother, richer and more sophisticated than its predecessors. Unlike them, it is not defined by a big dose of ambroxan. For a parfum, its performance is not particularly powerful, which might bother those who want their fragrances on the “beastly” side. But if you prefer a more personal experience with your fragrance of choice, you will find much to enjoy.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

So the big question: Which version is better? I prefer the parfum for its subtlety and the way it adroitly marries the two sides of its character: freshness and smoothness. The first few times I tried it, I liked it, but didn’t really notice it much. The more I wear and smell it, the more I am loving Demachy’s nocturnal direction.

R1 745 for 60ml and R2 430 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

Posted on

Boozy Fragrances: 9 Of The Best

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

We all know that alcohol is a major component of most perfumes. But that’s not the subject of this list. I’m talking about the special appeal of boozy fragrances. They often have something seductive and mysterious about them.

The variety of boozy notes ranges from the familiar to the exotic. Rum, whiskey, gin and absinthe notes are popular choices when it comes to boozy fragrances. But you can also find scents with sake, tequila and white wine notes. Boozy fragrances tend to range from the heavy and noticeable to the subtle and nuanced. I’ve included a mix of those styles here. Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

PENHALIGON’S JUNIPER SLING EDT* (OLIVIER CRESP)

Key notes: Cinnamon, orange brandy, angelica, juniper berry, cardamom, leather, black pepper, orris wood, brown sugar, black cherry, vetiver, ambrox.

Wear it if… You want the unmistakable aromatic waft of gin. Inspired by the quality of London dry gin, juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive flavour, open this EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern classic than its boozy intro. A cocktail of citrus, spice and a hint of sugar all complement each other. Vetiver-lovers will also appreciate its presence. This is a skin scent, so if you’re looking for a power performer, alas, this one is not for you.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

JOHN VARVATOS DARK REBEL EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

Key notes: Jamaican rum absolute, Cuban sugarcane, davana essence, cardamom absolute, clary sage-enriched essence, black leather, fir balsam, nutmeg, black pepper, styrax absolute, tobacco leaf accord, Mexican black vanilla, akigalawood, cade essence, castoreum, balsawood. 

Wear it if… You want a designer fragrance that oozes rock ’n roll attitude, even if you’re not a rebel at heart. As always, there’s an intimidatingly long list of notes in this John Varvatos 2015 release. To simplify things, it opens with a shot of rum that develops with sensual facets of tobacco, leather and woods. It gets the balance between sweet and dark just right.

Boozy Fragrances - John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT

PENHALIGON’S MUCH ADO ABOUT THE DUKE EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Key notes: Rose, leather, gin, black pepper, wood.

Wear it if… You want a very British niche fragrance. The niche heritage brand launched its charming Portraits collection in 2016. It features an assortment of aristocratic characters and EDPs with names such as Roaring Radcliff, The Blazing Mr Sam and Terrible Teddy. Although rose is the focus of this scent, there’s a lovely dash of gin that’s very elegant in its simplicity. You’ll be paying top dollar for this one, but wait till you see the packaging, from the bottle’s cap to the ornate box it comes in.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Much Ado About The Duke EDP

CAROLINA HERRERA CH MEN PRIVE EDP

Key notes: Grapefruit, pomelo, whiskey, frozen lavender, sage, red thyme, cardamom, leather, benzoin, tonka bean, wood.

Wear it if… You want a super-smooth and -sophisticated scent. There’s good reason why this release from 2015 is regarded as one of the best Carolina Herrera releases in recent years. It opens with a warm and understated waft of whiskey enhanced by cardamom, leather and tonka bean notes. It’s a seamless blend that’s tailor-made for the office and fancy occasions.

Boozy Fragrances - Carolina Herrera CH Men Prive EDP

KILIAN VODKA ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

Key notes: Cardamom, coriander, aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss, ambroxan, sandalwood.

Wear it if… You want an upmarket niche fragrance scent with a vodka-lite vibe. It must be Kilian Hennessy’s cognac-making heritage, as several of his fragrances have a boozy character, including Single Malt EDP, Straight to Heaven EDP and Apple Brandy EDP. Although vodka is not an officially listed note in this unisex EDP, the opening notes of cardamom, coriander and aldehydes skilfully create the effect of this spirit on ice. It’s a light treatment that’s followed by pronounced notes of rose, oakmoss and cardamom.

Boozy Fragrances - Kilian Vodka On The Rocks EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Key notes: Black currant, wormwood, angelica, ginger, patchouli, pepper, nutmeg, star anise, cloves, incense, balsam fir, pine tree needles.

Wear it if… You want a classic scent that’s full of intriguing nuances. A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This is not one of those fragrances. Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, headlines this unisex EDP as its opening note. The initial herbal effect is carried through to the heart, with the addition of spices. It all settles beautifully on a woody and smoky base.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Key notes: Precious aged rum, black cardamom, Taif rose, tuberose, tanned leather accord, oud accord.

Wear it if… You want a sexy oriental fragrance with a hint of rum. Bulgari Man was originally launched in 2010 and Black Orient, which was launched in 2016, is one of its best flankers. A rum and cardamom combo sets the tone for this EDP. The floral heart gives way to an irresistible leather-oud combo. It’s straightforward stuff, but highly effective in the way all the notes work together.

Boozy Fragrances - Bulgari Man Black Orient EDP

BENTLEY FOR MEN INTENSE EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

Key notes: Bergamot, black pepper, bay leaf, clary sage, African geranium, cinnamon, rum, wood, leather, benzoin, incense, cedar, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a solid and timeless fragrance. Many people are surprised to find out that Bentley is in the fragrance game. What’s not surprising is the quality of releases from the British luxury automotive brand. All their fragrances have been created by top perfumers. Launched in 2013, Bentley for Men EDT set the luxurious and sophisticated tone for their scents. Its first flanker, Bentley for Men Intense EDP, took it to another level of classiness. The rum note stands out in this oriental-spicy composition, with incense, leather and wood adding to its appeal.

Boozy Fragrances - Bentley For Men Intense EDP

CREED ROYAL MAYFAIR EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Key notes: British gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine, Duke of Windsor roses, Bahamian orange, Canadian cedar, Australian eucalyptus.

Wear it if… You want a posh scent with British sensibilities. There’s good reason why I often include Creed fragrances on my “best of” lists. They are high-quality releases that reflect their inspiration so well. Inspired by the upmarket London suburb of Mayfair, which also happens to be home to the brand’s London boutique, Royal Mayfair is a luxurious fresh, green scent. The gin opening sets the scene and is followed by standout notes of rose and eucalyptus.

Boozy Fragrances - Creed Royal Mayfair EDP

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

Posted on

Christian Dior Oud Ispahan Review

Dior Oud Ispahan

Christian Dior launched its luxury private fragrance range, La Collection Privée, in 2004 with three fragrances. Since then it has evolved into a fully fledged line of highly desirable scents divided into categories such as Sensuals, Orientals, Florals, Light Florals and Fruity Florals. The floral oriental Dior Oud Ispahan was launched in 2012 and is widely regarded as one of the best oud fragrances on the market.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Perfumer

As the brand’s perfumer, François Demachy has created most of the fragrances for La Collection Privée, including Oud Ispahan. The 70-year-old Frenchman is highly respected for his ability to balance commercial and creative success.

Examples of his other work include: Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT, Dior Sauvage (EDT and EDP) and several fragrances in the Dior Pour Homme range. Demachy also produces perfumes for other companies in the French luxury giant LVMH’s stable.

Dior Oud Ispahan - Francois Demachy

So what does Dior Oud Ispahan smell like?

This unisex EDP opens with the distinctive scent of labdanum. Its ambery, slightly leathery quality is warm and enticing. The fragrance sweetens slightly, as the rose note makes its appearance. Don’t be put off by the mention of this initial sweetness – it’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.

“It’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.”

The rose is perfectly partnered with the oud note that follows. Rose and oud combinations have always been popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. Dior Oud Ispahan takes its cue from this tradition, but it’s an undeniably Western take on oud.

While it’s not overwhelming or intensely “exotic”, there’s no doubting that this is the real thing in Dior Oud Ispahan. Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and Demachy makes the most of its woody, resinous aspects. That woodiness is complemented by the sandalwood and cedar notes.

To say that Dior Oud Ispahan is smooth is an understatement. Throughout its progression, it’s silky, yet full of character at the same time.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Packaging/Presentation

La Collection Privée is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.

The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the French luxury brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognisable Dior logo. Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Oud Ispahan has a rosy hue.

Dior Oud Ispahan

You can expect your bottle of Dior Oud Ispahan to be presented in a specially packaged box. The packaging ritual involves several stages – a box, tissue paper, a logoed perfumed cushion, a boxed fragrance, three samples of your choice in a logoed pouch, another bigger pouch, tissue paper sealed with Dior-logoed wax, your choice of colour of string to wrap the box and, the final touch, a Dior wax seal. This fastidious French attention to detail – complemented by professional and friendly customer service – leaves you in no doubt about the luxury experience you’re paying for.

R3 340 for 125ml, R4 965 for 250ml and R6 885 for 450ml.

For more oud options, read here. 

Read my review of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg here.

For more info on Dior’s La Collection Privée,  read here. 

Dior Oud Ispahan

 

Posted on

Oud Fragrances: The Variety Edition

Oud Fragrances

If there’s one ingredient in perfumery that’s guaranteed to get love-it-or-hate-it reactions, it’s rich and woody oud. Partly, this is because there are many mediocre oud fragrances on the market, but mostly it’s due to the unique qualities of the ingredient. Depending on how it’s used, oud can have a variety of characteristics: anything from musty and bittersweet to balsamic. A visit to a perfume counter will tell you how popular oud fragrances have become over the last decade. Of course, they have been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries.

Oud Fragrances

WHAT MAKES OUD SO SPECIAL?

According to Fragrantica, oud is the result of a fascinating process whereby the aquilaria tree species – found in south-east Asia, India and Bangladesh – is infected by a parasite. To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.

“To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.”

Various factors can influence the quality of oud, including the distillation process and the age of the tree. The very best oud is incredibly expensive, so most mainstream oud fragrances are based on a synthetic version or a blend of both natural and synthetic. Hence, the endless online debates about whether or not a fragrance is a real or synthetic oud.

PRECIOUS: The leaves of an aquilaria tree. Image: Chong Fat (Wikipedia).

Although there are many standouts here, this is not a definitive list of the best oud fragrances on the market. It also doesn’t include the huge variety of Middle Eastern oud fragrances. But it will give you a good sense of what’s available, especially for those who might have convinced themselves that oud is not for them. The names of perfumers (where known) and launch date have been placed in brackets after the name of each fragrance.

PURE OUD EDP BY KILIAN* (CALICE BECKER, 2009)

Key notes: Guaiac wood, saffron, agarwood, copahu balm, cypriol oil.

Wear it if… You want a heavy, pungent and uncompromising niche oud fragrance, with a strong leathery and woody aspect. Some might call it challenging, bitter and unwearable, so be warned if you’re looking for something more subtle. From the band’s Arabian Nights Collection, it’s decidedly masculine and makes a powerful statement.

Oud Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE OUD EDP (AURELIEN GUICHARD, 2016)

Key notes: Pear, raspberry, saffron, Bulgarian rose, orange flower, natural oud oil, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a great designer oud fragrance oud that doesn’t cost a fortune like many niche options, which claim to use more real oud. Gucci fragrances have been patchy over the years, but the Italian luxury brand hit the sweet spot with this unisex release. It’s smoky throughout, thanks to the incense and frankincense notes, sophisticated and sexy.

Oud Fragrances

CLEAN RESERVE SUEDED OUD EDP* (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2016)

Key notes: Incense oil, blue cypress, birch, red pimento, honeysuckle, temple oud, night-blooming jasmine, white magnolia, balsam fir, bushman’s candle, soft suede, patchouli, black amber, praline, musk, olibanum.

Wear it if… You want a clean and unisex niche oud that will surprise you. There are a lot officially listed notes in this fragrance, many of which you won’t be able to pick up. What does come through in this skin scent is the warm and musky quality of the suede, oud, musk, incense and amber notes. The praline note gives it a hint of just the right amount of sweetness.

Oud Fragrances

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2015)

Key notes: Sicilian bergamot, black pepper, saffron, rose, jasmine, agarwood, tobacco.

Wear it if… You want a super-elegant, smooth and toned-down oud experience. The oud in this fragrance is well balanced by the spices and florals. It’s from the brand’s high-quality Icon collection and the gold-encased bottle deserves a special mention for being of the best fragrance bottle designs in recent years.

Oud Fragrances

COMME DES GARCONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE, 2010)

Key notes: Vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, Virginia cedar, oud, cypress, pepper, bergamot, incense, nutmeg, cashmeran, caraway.

Wear it if… You want a highly rated wood fragrance, where oud is just one of the elements. The similar-ish Comme des Garçons Wonderoud EDP goes big on the oud, but Wonderwood’s balance between the various listed woods and spices is, in many ways, a better option. A good dose of vetiver adds to the woodiness.

Oud Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE EMERAUDE AGAR COLOGNE ABSOLUE* (JEROME EPINETTE, 2016)

Key notes: Calabrian bergamot, Siberian angelica, Vietnamese black pepper, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian geranium, Chinese eucalyptus, Malaysian agarwood, Indian sandalwood, Indian guaiac wood.

Wear it if… You want a very wearable oud fragrance with a fresh, green quality. Paris-based niche fragrance company Atelier Cologne is renowned for its citrus-infused scents. This EDP from its Haute Couture collection features some of the usual oud fragrance combos – for example, rose – but it’s the fresh notes – especially eucalyptus – that make it stand out.

Oud Fragrances

YSL M7 EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER & ALBERTO MORILLAS, 2002)

Key notes: Mandarin, bois de oud, patchouli, ciste, myrrh.

Wear it if… You want a seductive, smoky, slightly sweet oud fragrance. A reformulation of the classic and ground-breaking YSL M7, it’s a worthy purchase in its own right. A brief fresh opening makes way for an intriguing blend of patchouli, amber and myrrh, with a light treatment of oud in between.

Oud Fragrances

CREED ROYAL OUD MILLESIME EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION, 2011)

Key notes: Lemon, pink berries, bergamot, cedar, galbanum, angelica root, sandalwood, oud, Tonkin musk.

Wear it if… You want a seriously upmarket, luxurious interpretation of oud that’s signature scent material. This is expensive stuff (it’s Creed, after all), but for the price you’re getting a masterful and multi-faceted fragrance, from the citrus opener to the slightly sweet oud that’s not too dominant. It’s not an obvious oud fragrance and that’s part of its beauty.

Oud Fragrances

*Available from Skins Cosmetics South Africa. https://www.skins.co.za

 

Posted on

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

HIGH PROFILE: A portrait of Coco Chanel in 1927, taken by Berenice Abbott. Image: Chanel.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

ALL AMERICAN: Coco Chanel in her suite at the Hotel Pierre during her first visit to New York City in 1931.

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

SUPER EIGHT: Olivier Polge used a variety of white musks to create Chanel 1957. Image: Chanel.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in  wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

 

 

Posted on

Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! 2019 EDT 

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round.  R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.

 

 
Posted on

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP Review

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Creed. The name alone is enough to elicit hyper devotion and debate among its fans that sometimes borders on the religious. Founded in 1760, the Paris-based niche fragrance house is a father-and-son business that has created numerous classic fragrances through the generations. But if you were to insist on one that captures what the upmarket brand is all about, it would have to be the wonderfully named Creed Green Irish Tweed.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Perfumer

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation created this scent that was released in 1985. Tradition is very important to Creed, so all the family perfumers through the generations are given royal-sounding names.

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation is responsible for an impressive succession of Creed classics. These include: Aventus EDP, Bois du Portugal EDP, Erolfa EDP, Himalaya EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP and Virgin Island Water EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Olivier Creed Sixth Generation

IMAGE: creedperfume.com.au

There’s also much online speculation that the legendary Pierre Bourdon helped create Green Irish Tweed.

So what does Creed Green Irish Tweed Smell Like?

Some brands go to elaborate lengths to describe the inspiration behind their fragrances. Creed keeps it simple (and believable) for Green Irish Tweed: “A stroll through the Irish countryside.”

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean..” If this is what a walk through the Irish countryside is all about, then let’s continue the journey…

Creeed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Irish countryside

GOING GREEN: Creed Green Irish Tweed is inspired by a walk in the Irish countryside. IMAGE: ireland.com

The heart of the fragrance belongs to a compelling violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight woody focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and the iris note adds an element of powderiness.

And what about the musky ambergris that’s commonly listed in Creed fragrances and part of the reason why they are so expensive? If this rare by-product of the digestive system of the sperm whale is present in this scent, it’s certainly not as distinctive as the one found in Creed Millésime Impérial EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Almost 35 years since its launch, Creed Green Irish Tweed remains of the brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why. It’s a unique perfume that’s signature scent material.

Posted on

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Review

Ever since it was founded in 1916 in Parma, Italy, by the super-dapper Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma has been synonymous with luxury and the good life, Italian style. All serious perfume-lovers know Acqua di Parma Colonia, a 20th-century citrus classic. From the Colonia versions to the Blu Mediterraneo Collection, Acqua di Parma has built a thriving business on high-quality variations on the citrus theme. Perhaps the most intriguing of these is Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud. From the brand’s Ingredient Collection, it was launched in 2012.

Acqua di Parma Colonia

SO WHAT DOES ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA OUD SMELL LIKE?

The citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange open this fragrance in typically uplifting Acqua di Parma style.

The oud comes through quickly after that. Warm, sensual and smooth, without being overwhelming, it’s a refined take on the oud theme. The oud is accompanied and complemented by a strong and silky leather accord, which, for some reason, is not listed in the official notes. But make no mistake, it’s a big part of this fragrance. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

The base adds to the feeling of warmth with the notes of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood accord in perfect harmony.

VERDICT

Harmonious is a good way to describe this scent. Before you try it, you might think that the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess. When you wear it, you will see how all the elements work together to produce a scent that’s eminently elegante. As a concentrated cologne, it delivers good performance, which is not always the case with colognes.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

If you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud is the perfect choice.

It’s a pity that Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t list its perfumers, especially when they produce such good work.

PRICE

R3 375 (100ml) to R4 680 (180ml).

WHERE TO BUY IT

https://www.foschiniforbeauty.co.za/pdp/acqua-di-parma-colonia-oud-eau-de-cologne/_/A-000179AAOG2

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

Posted on

Maison Christian Dior – Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Perfume-lovers were in for the deluxe treatment when the first Maison Christian Dior on the African continent opened its doors in Johannesburg in 2018. We all know Dior for its haute couture, “new look” style and its associations with all things Parisian. So expectations were high of the luxury fragrances on offer. I’m not one for shopping malls, but I’ve popped into the boutique a few times to lap up the chic ambience. These are my impressions.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

CHIC EXPERIENCE: The exterior of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg. In the rear of the store, a video wall features footage of Dior’s famous home, Château de La Colle Noire, in the south of France. Image: Dior.

The look and feel of the store 

Sophisticated and modern, with reminders of Dior’s grand heritage. Don’t mistake the quietness of Maison Christian Dior, compared to many of the other shops in the centre, for a lack of business. It’s all about the quality of the shopper here, not the quantity.  Special touch: A video wall that features Dior’s property in the south of France, Château de La Colle Noire.

Taking its cue from the increasing demand for exclusive, high-quality fragrances, La Collection Privée Christian Dior was launched in 2004. Three fragrances – Bois d’Argent EDP, Eau Noire EDP and Cologne Blanche EDP – were available at that stage. The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals. Each fragrance comes in a sleek cylindrical bottle with a black magnetic cap, originally designed by then Christian Dior homme creative director, Hedi Slimane. 

“The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals.”

It has also expanded to include candles, bath and body products, and accessories. Most of the fragrances have been created by highly respected perfumer François Demachy.

The latest launch 

The fruity floral Holy Peony EDP was launched earlier in 2019. It’s a soft, pretty and slightly sweet take on peony, with a big helping of apricot rose. The composition also features notes of red fruits, wood and musk.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The best seller

South Africans like their fragrances potent and long-lasting. So it’s no surprise that the unisex Oud Ispahan, which was launched in 2014, does so well in Maison Christian Dior. With notes of smoky woods, rose, frankincense and resin, it’s a smooth and sophisticated oud.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

FRAGROOM favourite

Cuir Cannage EDP which, I am told, has been discontinued. Before it disappears from the shelves completely, make sure to grab a bottle of this beauty. Officially, it’s inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”, according to the brand’s website. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex. There’s no doubting this is a superb leather fragrance, but what really makes it so special is how well Demachy balanced it with the floral and woody aspects.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The service

The exterior of Maison Christian Dior might say intimidatingly exclusive, but the service is friendly and welcoming. Of course, I got good service, as the staff knew I was a blogger. However, I’ve watched them interacting with customers and they all received the same professional service. Hard selling is not Dior style and it’s good to know that staff have a history with the brand, so they know their stuff.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Verdict

Maison Christian Dior is all about the luxury experience. It’s the place to visit if you’re in search of high-quality, well-crafted perfumes with a sense of history. Attention to detail is premium level, especially when it comes to the packaging of purchases.

Contact details

Maison Christian Dior, Shop U315, Sandton City, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 010 001 2590. Email: storemanager@christiandior.co.za.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg 8